WOMEN 

IN THE 

KLONDHQ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



000^4443^4 



MARTE-HITCHCOCK 



SEC ; - T> ^o DV . 




JUL 101899 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



Chaj3£3.?4 Copyright No.. 
Shelf^JaJl 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



TWO WOMEN IN 
THE KLONDIKE 

rhe Story of a Journey to the 
Gold-Fields of Alaska 



BY 



MARY E. HITCHCOCK 
if 



With 105 Illustrations and Map 



G. P. Putnam's Sons 
New York and London 
XTbe Iknicfterbocfeer press 

1899 



3562j 

Copyright, 1899 



MARY E. HITCHCOCK 

Entered at Stationers' Hall, London 



WOCOPlti* KfcCStVSD. 



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Ube TRnfcfcevbocfcer press, Iftew loth 






To 
MRS. ELISHA DYER 

THIS VOLUME IS LOVINGLY AND GRATEFULLY DEDICATED 
BY 

The Author 



NOTE 

T^HE author hereby expresses her cordial acknowledgment 
* to all those from whom she has received assistance by 
the contribution either of stories or of photographs, which 
she has recorded in her journal or has utilised in the prepa- 
ration of her volume. 

Special thanks are due to Miss Edith M. Van Buren for 
certain facts and stories, and for a number of photographs ; 
also to Dr. Dow, Mr. Arthur D. Spiess, Mr. Von Millengen, 
Dr. DeCow, and Mr. E. A. Hegg, for their kindness in per- 
mitting the reproduction of photographs belonging to them. 

New York, May i, 1899. 




THE story of Two Women in the Klondike, written by 
Mrs. Roswell D. Hitchcock, who with her friend Miss 
Edith Van Buren, braved all the hardships and dangers of a 
journey to the Klondike and all the discomforts of a life 
along the very skirmish line of civilization- where the turn 
ing of a spade has oftentimes led to the discovery of a for- 
tune, cannot fail to be most interesting and most instructive. 

Mrs. Hitchcock is the widow of the late Commander Ros- 
well D. Hitchcock, of the U. S. Navy, who was the son of 
Professor Roswell D. Hitchcock, for many years President 
of the Union Theological Seminary, New York. Mrs. 
Hitchcock herself is descended from Lord FitzGerald. Her 
grandfather and father were born in Norfolk, Virginia, where 
many of her relatives now live and where the old family 
mansion is still a landmark, although it has passed into 
other hands. Miss Van Buren is a grand-niece of President 
Van Buren and daughter of General Van Buren, who was 
United States Consul- General to Japan in the eighties. 

The two travellers were born and reared in luxury and 
refinement and the narrative of their daily life in that terri- 
ble Wonderland of the North is of itself not only a tribute to 
their own perseverance and determination, but to the char- 
acter of intelligent and fearless Anglo-Saxon women, who, 
among all sorts and conditions of men, never fail to secure 

protection and respect. 

Eusha Dyer. 
Providence, Rhode Island, 
April n, 1899. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER 

I.— Ho for the Land of Gold ! 
II.— "With Malice Towards None" 
III.— Land in Sight ! . 
IV.— St. Michaels 
V. — A Trial of Patience . 
VI.— We MEET Old Friends 
VII.— Transferred at Last 
VIII.— We Hear the Signal 
IX.— Up the Yukon 
X.— Discomfort of Barge Life 
XL— N earing our Destination 
XII.— The Promised Land .... 
XIII. — We Become Squatters 

XIV.— The " Sick Boy " 

XV.— Our First Dinner in Dawson 
xvi. — We become "Free miners" . 
XVII. — Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 

XVIIL— Our Man Friday 

XIX.— Isaacs, the Irrepressible 
XX.— Our Helpful neighbours . 
XXL— A New Scheme ..... 
XXII. —The "Rideout" at Last . . . . 
XXIII.— Trials of Building . 



PAGE 

I 

5 

12 
25 
31 

33 
43 

54 
70 
82 
9i 
99 
113 
122 

134 

151 
167 

193 
205 
222 
241 
261 
280 



X 



Contents 



CHAPTER 

XXIV. — Business Propositions 
XXV. — A New Experience; . 
XXVI. — In the New Home at Last . 
XXVII. — A Series oe Disappointments 
XXVIII.— Adieu to Dawson 
XXIX. — The Race with the " DomvileE 
XXX.— The First Portage . 
XXXI.— The Skaguay Pass . 
XXXI I.— A Day in SiTka 
XXXIII.— Jake and his Rival 
XXXIV.— Farewell to Alaska 



PAGE 
303 
327 

349 
381 
396 
411 

43i 
439 
460 
466 

472 




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



On Board the St. Paul 1 Frontispiece 

Colonel B. and his Fiddle ] 8 

"I KNOWED I COULD PLAY 'EM ALL DOWN" ' . . .II 

Unalaska l . . 13 

Extinct Volcano in Unalaska ' . . . • . . .16 

The Cemetery 17 

A Kayak or Native Boat 19 

Unhappy but Resigned '. 20 

"Ten O'clock and the Sun was Setting" ... 23 

Novel Mosquito Screens ' 26 

On Board the St. Paul ' 29 

Cloud Effects at Midnight ] 35 

Alaskan Indians in Kayaks . .• 41 

Successful Miners Returning Home 44 

The Wheeling 49 

Taking on Wood on the Yukon 63 

Drying Salmon on the Lower Yukon ..... 65 

Scow on the Yukon ......... 72 

Raft on the Yukon 75 

Protected from Mosquitoes 81 

Horses Swimming the Yukon' 2 83 

Salting the Pan 94 

A Lesson in Panning out Gold . . . . . -95 

E 's First Pan 97 

Welcoming a River Steamer in Dawson ' . . . .101 

1 Reproduced from photograph by permission of Dr. Dow. 

2 Reproduced from photograph by permission of Arthur D. Spiess. 

xi 



xii List of Illustrations 

PAGE 

Log Cabins at Dawson '........ 103 

Monte Carlo Theatre, Front Street, Dawson l .105 

Canadian Bank of Commerce, Dawson .... 10S 

View on the Shore of the Yukon no 

West Dawson Showing "The Big Tent" ' . . . .111 

Pack Dogs 117 

A Sweeping-Bag 2 . . . . 119 

The Big Tent 123 

A Goat Team 3 131 

Newspaper Vendors 4 135 

Main Street, Dawson, Looking North 3 .... 139 

A Dawson Hotel . 142 

Front Street, Dawson 3 145 

Arrival oe Seattle No. i at Dawson City. Photo- 
graphed at Midnight 3 149 

Indian Woman of the Klondike 155 

Miners Selling Outfits 5 . . 159 

Off for El Dorado 5 . 169 

Crossing the Ferry 170 

Our Tent on the Trail 172 

A Sluice-box in Operation . . . . . . .175 

One Pan in a Rich Mine 177 

Awaiting the Result of a Clean-up . . . . .179 

The Result of a Clean-up 181 

Clean-up on the B Mine 183 

Returning from a Clean-up 189 

Dinner to a Klondike King 195 

A Vegetable Garden in the Klondike .... 200 

A Corner of the Tent 6 207 

Water Front, Dawson l 213 

Our Helpful Neighbours . 2r9 

Northwest Mounted Police, Dawson 223 

Dawson from the River, Showing Landslide . . . 225 

1 Reproduced from photograph by permission of Arthur D. Spiess. 

2 Reproduced from photograph by permission of Dr. De Cow. 

3 Reproduced from photograph by permission of E. A. Hegg. 

4 Reproduced from photograph by permission of Mr. Von Millengen. 

5 Reproduced from photograph by permission of Dr. Dow. 



List of Illustrations xiii 

PAGE 

Learning To Chop Wood 227 

Dogs Hauling Logs . 229 

A Mery Meal 1 233 

Girl Wanted * 237 

Preparing Dinner 247 

Crossing the Yukon ! . . . ■ 251 

A Street Scene in Dawson ! , . 265 

A Group oe Prospectors 269 

Our Neighbours who Elected me Mayor .... 270 

Ladue's Store . .273 

A Klondike Team . 277 

First and Only Fire Engine 289 

Erection of Tammany Hall, Dawson 2 293 

The Stationer's Store 306 

The Lock of Hair for the Widow . . . . . 323 

Miss Van Buren in Travelling Costume .... 329 

The Assay Office . . . . . . . . . . 338 

Tied Up at Dawson 343 

Our House Finished at Last 350 

A Shipment of Goed, September 14, 1898 2 . . . . 353 

Waiting for the Mail . .363 

The Flora 3 393 

Life on a Barge :i 401 

Pioneers of Dawson 2 . . 407 

A Klondike King 409 

The Domville Passing us 414 

Five Fingers or Rink Rapids 421 

MieES Canon 424 

Miees Canon Between White Horse and Bennett . . 429 

Portage Between Lakes . • .432 

White Horse Rapids 3 433 

The Nora 436 

ChiekooT Railway and Transportation Company ' . . 440 
One Miee River, between Lakes Linderman and Ben- 
nett 2 ' 441 

1 Reproduced from photograph by permission of Mr. Von Millengen. 

2 Reproduced from photograph by permission of E. A. Hegg. 

3 Reproduced from photograph by permission of Arthur D. Spiess. 



XIV 



List of Illustrations 



On the; Skaguay Trail 

A Bunk House; .... 

Johnson Glacier, near Skaguay ' 

"Can you Go no Farther? " . 

A Hard Road for Tired Feet - 

Blasting on the Skaguay Pass ] 

Cutting Rock eor a Grade on Tunnel Mountain 

The Cemetery, Skaguay . 

Mrs. Hitchcock . 

Our Room-mate . . . 

Indian Children at SiTka 

Killisnoo ..... 

"Soapy" Smith and his Gun 

Bear Totem, Fort Wrangee 

Map oe Alaska 3 . 

1 Reproduced from photograph by permission of H. C. Barley. 

2 Reproduced from photograph by permission of Arthur D. Spiess. 

3 By permission of Miner Bruce. 



PAGE 

443 
445 
447 
449 
45i 
453 
455 
458 

459 
461 

463 
468 
470 

473 
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TWO WOMEN IN THE 
KLONDIKE 



CHAPTER I 

HO FOR THE UND OF GOLD. 1 

OUR magnificent Great Danes, Queen and Ivan, met us 
near the wharf, which was crowded with such a mass 
of people that it was no easy task for our coachman to guide 
his horses to the gangplank of the steamer which was about 
to make her maiden trip to St. Michaels. Although it was 
still early, her decks were thronged. We slowly worked 
our way to our cabins, where we found that our maid, who 
had preceded us, had carefully arranged such articles as she 
thought necessary for so adventurous a journey. We were 
sorry to leave her behind us, but the responsibility of taking 
a young and pretty girl into such regions as we had planned 
to explore would have been too great. 

In San Francisco our outfitting kept us in one mad rush, 
so that, during the last week, our rule was twenty hours for 
work and four for sleep ; but the work had been so interest- 
ing, the various projects so exciting, that the four hours 
were passed in planning, rather than sleeping, as our brains 
continued to act, and would not be stilled. At half-past five 
writing and making up accounts began ; then we hurriedly 
took a cup of coffee while dressing ; rushed to reach the shops 
as soon as opened, had no time for luncheon, and the stores 



2 Two Women in the Klondike 

were closing before we were aware that it was time ; then 
dinner, with only half an hour to spare for it, and a hasty 
comparison of notes before starting to listen to "records " for 
our graphophone, and music for our " criterion " ; to learn 
to prepare the beautiful acetylene light with which we in- 
tended to illuminate our tent. We were taking extreme 
pleasure also in outfitting a protege, whose stories of life in 
Dawson, and whose many schemes for making a fortune had 
greatly interested us. Preparations for the trip were often 
retarded by dear, kind friends who wrote : " Cannot under- 
stand your silence " ; or, " This is my fourth letter, but not 
a line have you deigned in reply " ; or, " It is hard to believe 
that you have so changed and have no longer a thought for 
me." The last night was spent in reassuring those who 
could not understand. 

Thanks be to the Lord ! It is all over now and we have 
before us at least a fortnight of blissful repose — even sea- 
sickness will have no terrors. We are just passing out of the 
beautiful Golden Gate. As we were leaving the dock, Mr. 

W appeared with his machine for taking moving pictures, 

shouted a request for us to stand in the bow of the steamer 
and wave our handkerchiefs. From his smile of satisfaction 
we judged that the resemblance would be striking and that 
we should soon be en evidence at some of the vaudeville 
shows, where " The Departure of the St. Paul tor the Klon- 
dike " might be announced in loud tones. Such is fame ! 

This longing of ours to see one of the few countries un- 
known to us had created such astonishment among our 
friends and acquaintances that we were considered quite 
mad — fit subjects for an insane asylum. The remarks we 
heard on all sides were also far from flattering or con- 
soling. At each stage of our journey from New York to 
San Francisco, reporters by the dozen came to interview 
us. Such questions as these were asked us : " Do 3^ou 
mean to say that you really intend to give up all the luxu- 
ries and comforts of home life to camp out and endure such 
privations and hardships as we read of? Have you ever 
climbed mountains ? Tramped through swamps ? Stumbled 



Ho for the Land of Gold ! 3 

over rocky precipices ? Lived among rough miners ? Do 
give it up — you have no idea of all the perils that are in 
store for you. ' ' 

In Colorado Springs we were charmingly entertained, but 
not one of our friends there believed that we really would 
carry out our plans. In Denver a party of us went to visit 
a famous mine in Georgetown ; we were shown every atten- 
tion and courtesy, and deep interest was expressed in the 
success of our plans. " She ought n't to have any future," 
growled an old miner standing near ; " any lady wot leaves 
a fine home an' fine friends and luxuries to take up with 
hardships wot 's hard enough for strong men to bear ought 
to be locked up in an insane asylum." 

The others did not hear. I smiled and thought of the 
friend who wrote me : ' ' So you are actually going to Dawson 
and nothing we can say or write will prevent it. Well, wil- 
ful woman must have her way ; so I hope you won't regret 

it." All these thoughts arose in my mind as K and I 

stood on the deck of the steamer, not watching the disappear- 
ing land, but looking eagerly, hopefully forward to that 
which was to come. 

It had not been our intention to sail on an Alaska Com- 
mercial Company's steamer, as a friend had so highly recom- 
mended those of the Empire Line that we engaged passage 
on the Ohio at once, never having seen her. We were, there- 
fore, filled with annoyance upon receiving a notification that 
the owners could not keep to the contract made with us, as 
the Government had chartered the steamer; but when we 
found that it was to be sent with reinforcements to our hero 
Dewey, we readily accepted the situation and made our 
plans to go by the Indiana, belonging to the same company. 
Again the Government stepped in, and we were obliged to 
look about for other means of transportation. Upon inquiry, 
we found that the reputation of the Alaska Commercial 
Company was so high, their ships so well manned, and their 
contracts so carefully carried out, that we went to the office 
to ascertain how soon one of their steamers would be leaving 
for the desired land. We were informed that the St. Paul 



4 Two Women in the Klondike 

had just been finished ; was fitted with all modern con- 
veniences ; that a reception on board was to be given that 
very evening, and were urged not only to attend but to 
bring our friends. We did so, were received by one of the 
courteous owners most charmingly, treated with distin- 
guished consideration, and told to select whichever cabins we 
pleased, as, although all were engaged, the passengers, being 
composed mostly of men, would " willingly change in favour 
of ladies." We were next taken to the dining-room for a 
champagne supper; after tasting the chef's bouillon and one 
or two other dishes, we immediately decided that the wants 
of the inner man would be well cared for and booked our 
passage at once, so charmed were we with the equipments 
and many advantages of the St. Paul, to say nothing of the 
extreme courtesy of her officers. 

And now begins a most truthful account of incidents just 
as they happened, copied from the journal of daily events, 
in order to show women who feel inclined to make the trip 
exactly what they may expect. 




CHAPTER II 

"with mauce towards nonk" 

Steamer " ST. Paue," Thursday, June 16th. 

WAKENED early. Opened the blind, and was sitting 
up in bed rapidly jotting down a dream-inspired 
article, when the curtains parted, the head of a man appeared, 
and a big, hearty voice called out : " Hulloa ! how are you 
this morning ? Why don't you get up ? I 'm up ! Have 
a piece of orange ? I 've been seasick for four days. This 
is my first day out of my cabin. Have been awfully gener- 
ous. Gave the captain the ocean, and the purser all the land 
we 've left behind. Did n't think I should ever want either 
of them again ; but, say — why don't you get up ? " " Be- 
cause it is so much more comfortable resting here than walk- 
ing on a wet deck, and so much easier to write." " Writing 
— do you have to write ? What yer writing about ? Write 
a letter to me ; I 'm your next-door neighbour. Suppose 
you don't mind my looking in your room and trying to jolly 
you up ? " " As for the ' looking in,' one grows accustomed 
to that on this ship where the cabins open on the promenade 
deck and kind neighbours feel it a duty to cheer up those 

who are supposed to be ill, and Miss V and I intend to 

' rough it,' and to live and do just as the people of the coun- 
try do." " That 's right, and we '11 look after you well. I 
never expected to go back, but have half a dozen claims at 
Rampart City, and my partner 's just written for me to come 
as they 're turning out fine. You don't want to buy any 
claims, I suppose ? You ought to get off at Rampart — much 
better than Dawson. House lots selling: there for a thousand 



6 Two Women in the Klondike 

dollars apiece. Excuse me a minute." . . . L,ater — 
same voice : ' ' One o' your dogs is loose. What yer going 
to do with them when you get to the first landing-place ? 
I '11 help you look out for 'em and get 'em ashore, while you 
carry your revolver, as the other dogs will all pounce on 
'em and it won' t be a fair fight — twenty against two. What ! 
you don't know how to use a revolver ? That don't matter. 
Just fire in the air, and the dogs '11 run. Why, women 
shoot better than men, anyhow. I did n't know my wife 
could shoot until I offered her a pair of gloves for each time 
she hit the bull's-eye. She did it twice before I was sure it 
was not an accident, and then I cried quits. So-long ; 
I '11 come and jolly you again by and by." 

Second face at the window : " Good-morning ; how are 
you feeling?" " Good-morning, Mr. Purser." "Well, 
are you going to get up to-day ? It 's perfectly fine out. 
Anything I can do for you ? Just call on me in case you 
want anything." 

Third face appears : ' ' I ' ve got some very bad news for 
you, Madam." " Not the dogs ? " I cried in alarm. " No, 
Madam. " " Nor the parrot ? " ' ' No, Madam, but one of 
the canaries is dead. I did all I could for him, and left him 
two hours ago bright and lively, but returned to find the 
other mourning his mate, who was lying cold in the bottom 
of the cage. I 'm very sorry, but as the two dozen pigeons 
are in perfect health, you must see that I have given great 
attention to your birds and animals." 

Face number one again : ' ' Say ! I ' ve thought of a splendid 
scheme for you. There 's plenty of old canvas on board. 
Why don't you hire one of the sailors to sew a tent for your 
dogs out of it ? On the quiet, of course. You can do any- 
thing on the quiet. I '11 get one for you. Here, Bo's'n, 
this lady wants a tent for her dogs. Look in this window 
an' you fix it with her, an' she '11 fix it with you afterwards 

— that 's all right. Say ! what was your friend [E ] 

kicking about this morning ? She looked thundering black 
at me while she was talking in your window to you. Oh ! 
she did n't like our talking outside her door ! Wanted to 



"With Malice towards None" 7 

sleep later ! Well, why the deuce did n't she say so ? You 
can bet your life we wouldn't 'a' done it if she 'd 'a' said she 
didn't like it. Well ! so-long ! I '11 come back and jolly 
you some more if you don't get out soon. I 'm feeling 
fine ! Your mandolin disturb me last evening ? No! bless 
your soul ! if I 'd known you had a mandolin I 'd 'a' been in, 
Next time you play it you can count on me as a sure enough 
visitor." 

June 17th. 
I am not enjoying much of the rest to which I so longingly 
looked forward. Letters home must be written, and my pen 
is also kept busy in trying to depict in my journal the many 
novel characters on board, and to write of the warm hearts 
which show so plainly beneath the rough exterior. I hur- 
ried through dinner and went to my cabin for a quiet hour's 
practice of zither and mandolin. With closed door and spirit 
far away in the realms of music, I was brought back by hear- 
ing : " Ain't that the sweetest music you ever listened to ? " 
" Kgad! I could stop here forever if she 'd never stop play- 
ing." " I say, Missus, do you mind letting us open your 
cabin door, for we ain't heard no such music as that never ; 
you won't be too cold, will you ? " and the door was slowly 
opened even as the appeal was made. Those who had here- 
tofore been able to promenade in single file before the cabins 
waited, as the passageway was blocked. " No use trying to 
pass here, old man," someone cried, as a short fellow with a 
gray beard partially covering a soiled white shirt-front wrig- 
gled, finally, to a position from which he could obtain a sight 
of the instrument, and was chaffed unmercifully. " You '11 
get there, Colonel." " Push ahead, ole man." " Get in 
der front, now, Nanny-Goat. " " What 's she playin' ? " 
" Why, a zither," and the informant, bolder than the others, 
worked his way inside of the tiny cabin and seated himself 
on the wash-stand. Another dropped into the corner of the 
sofa, while still another seated himself on the door-sill. The 
old man stood before me, listening intently, with beaming 
eyes and a smile which never disappeared until the tears 



8 Two Women in the Klondike 

rolled down his face as I concluded with the touching strains 
of Home, Sweet Home. ' ' Why, that 's as fine as my fiddle, ' ' 
said he. "Do you play the fiddle?" I asked, rising (in 
order to disperse the crowd) and returning the zither to its 
case. His eyes sparkled as he eagerly replied, ' ' Yes ; you 
want to hear it ? Somebody borrowed it, but I '11 find it " ; 
and, as he hastily disappeared, one of the passengers called 
out : " Oh , you don't want to hear him ! You '11 ask him for 
an opera, an' he '11 play Yankee Doodle. You ask for some- 




COLONEL B AND HIS FIDDLE. 

thing sad — same old thing again ; ask for something lively — 
same old thing — always just the one tune." Shouts of " A 
whale ! a whale ! " sent the entire party for'ard, and music 
and the old man were forgotten as we watched the sport of 
several monsters of the deep. 

June iSth. 
"Thought you' d like a flower," a voice shouted early 
this morning, as the curtains were pushed aside and a rose 
fell on my bed, stopping my hurrying pencil. " Bet you 
don't know where I got it from, but I was sure you 'd appre- 
ciate it. Still writing ? I say ! you work hard, don't you ? 



"With Malice towards None" 9 

Why don't you come out and enjoy yourself like the rest of 
the people ? " and the man who had offered to look out for 

the dogs at the first landing-place disappeared, as E 

entered to give me the morning news. " Do you know who 
your friend is, the one who gave you the rose ? ' ' she laughed ; 

' ' his name is J , and he keeps a saloon in San Francisco. ' ' 

" Saloon or no saloon," replied I, "he is much more polite 
and considerate than your friend, who, representative of an 
enormously wealthy syndicate though he be, bows to a lady 
without seeming to remember that he has a hat to touch." 

" Oh, he 's absent-minded," said K ; "I 've already 

spoken to him about it, though. He and the Judge are wild 
to know why we are taking such an enormous tent to Daw- 
son. They have spent the entire week in trying to discover 
for what purpose it is intended, and say that it is the first 
time that they have ever found a woman who could keep a 
secret ; so they are waiting to see if they can't prevail upon 
you to divulge the great mystery." " Let them continue to 
guess," said I ; " their questions may give us some sugges- 
tions of value." 

Upon leaving the dinner-table early in order to indulge in 
music before all the world and his wife should start upon the 
evening promenade, a refined-looking young man, with deli- 
cately cut features, approached, saying : " It 's very dull on 
board, and I enjoy your music so much that I thought by 
coming early you might allow me to listen, and may I bring 
my mandolin and try some duets with you ? " The request 
was willingly granted, but only for a short time were we per- 
mitted to indulge uninterruptedly in practice. The crowd 
soon discovered us ; the gangway was blocked, while those 
on the outside suggested that we could give much pleasure 
by moving into larger quarters — Social Hall, for instance ; 
but the performers being modest and of retiring natures, the 
concert came to an end after some of the listeners had man- 
aged not only to gain entrance to the cabin, but to ask if I 
minded smoking. Accustomed to the odour of a good cigar, 
I made no objection, but oh ! the pipes and vile tobacco ! I 
had not counted upon them, so laughingly told my unex- 



io Two Women in the Klondike 

pected guests that the canary was objecting seriously, put 
aside the music, and we all went out into the delicious pure 
air. Had a delightful chat with two modest Italian priests. 
They had expected to be sent to Dawson, and had made 
all their plans to that effect, but orders had been changed 
and they were going to an unknown region. No comment 
did they make — no unkind criticism at this unexpected 
news : they were in the Master's service, their only thought 
to do good and to lead souls unto Him. May they reap a 
rich reward. 

A steward approached, saying, " Madam, would you mind 
lending your mandolin for a little while ? " As my mandolin 
is a Vinaccia, and one especially selected for me by my Nea- 
politan teacher (who, by the way, is instructor to her Majesty, 
the beautiful and well-beloved Queen of Italy), I felt some 
reluctance, but asked him to see that it was treated with the 
greatest care. "Oh, that '11 be all right, Madam," was the 
response ; " I 'm going to play it myself." We adjourned 
to the stern of the steamer, where we found about fifty of the 
passengers gathered — they standing, the waiters all seated ; 
but those who had appreciated my music rushed to find a 
chair for me, saying : " You kin bet your bottom dollar 
we 're a-goin' to look out for you. ' ' There were two mando- 
lins, two guitars, and a banjo, but the centre of the group 

was the old fiddler, Colonel B , whose eyes sparkled and 

whose expression was one of the keenest delight at having 
so large an audience. We listened to sweet, pathetic songs, 
then came a jig from the Colonel's fiddle, and this was fol- 
lowed by several solos to the accompaniment of the guitar 
and banjo. Faster and faster played the old man, his excite- 
ment so great that he stopped to remove his. hat ; he rose, 
from side to side he swayed, holding the audience spell- 
bound ; the banjoist dropped his banjo, the notes of the guitar 
were stilled; finally a burst of applause rang on the air as the 
Colonel dropped into his seat, saying, " I knowed I could 
play 'em all down." Our evening entertainment on the 
St. Paul ended with My Country, 'tis of Thee, after which a 
collection was taken for the stewards who had so well helped 



With Malice towards None" 



1 1 



us to pass an hour, the generous captain heading the contri- 
bution. As I was being escorted to the cabin by half a 
dozen musical acquaintances, my attention was attracted by 
something to me quite novel : it looked like a search-light 
coming from the bottom of the ship. On questioning, I was 
told that instead of irritating the nerves of passengers by the 
old-fashioned method of hoisting and throwing overboard 
cinders or ashes, they were washed out in a stream of water. 
That explained the unusual quiet, so different from the noise 
endured on my last long voyage. 



fpr- ., m 


2:' f^ •■,''* J; 

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I KNOWED I COULD PLAY 'EM ALL DOWN. 1 



CHAPTER III 

LAND IN SIGHT ! 

June 19th. 

ACOIvD, damp, dark day, and, what with wet decks out- 
side, Social Hall crowded with its usual complement 
of passengers, some playing cards, some reading, others in 
a reclining position, thus occupying space intended for three, 
I felt not inclined towards its stuffy, hermetically sealed 
quarters, so concluded that the inducement to rise was not 
sufficiently great, and that reading and writing could be 
done to much greater advantage in the privacy of my own 
comfortable cabin amidst the luxury of an abundance of 
cushions. Air, pure and invigorating, could be obtained 
through the open window even with drawn curtains. How- 
ever, interruptions came often from the well-meaning pas- 
sengers who ventured on deck, and stopped to inquire for 
my health, as they could not understand any one who failed 
to care for " three full meals a day." When the Captain 
made his regular inspection, my hand was aching from hours 
of steady writing. " Hulloa," said he, "in bed, still? I 
guess you must be lazy. Want anything ? Just let me 
know if you don't get all you want." 

Towards evening there was a great commotion on board. 
A head appeared at the window and a voice said : ' ' Pardon 
me, but land 's in sight, and we shall reach Unalaska 
before midnight." What a delightful announcement ! 
Scarcely had the head disappeared ere I was dressing rapidly 
and soon joined the excited passengers. " Hulloa," was 
the greeting on all sides, " so the sight ot land has ac- 
complished what no one on board could manage and has 



14 Two Women in the Klondike 

brought vou among us once more ! " Oh ! the grandeur 
of the scene before us ! A long chain of mountains on either 
side. Snow everywhere, and above the snow the most beau- 
tiful blue clouds, not with silver lining, but golden. As we 
approached the entrance, three islands lying on the left 
seemed to be surrounded by fishing-boats, and we gazed 
eagerly ; but, upon drawing near, they proved to be only 
rocks. Sea-birds flew before the St Paul as though care- 
fully guiding the good ship on her first voyage ; smaller 
birds flitted to and fro across the bow, while sea-fowl 
skimmed the water in search of prey. The icy wind was so 
penetrating that my companions soon sought the warmth of 
Social Hall, but the inspiring scene chained me to the deck, 
and my soul was filled with gratitude towards Him who in 
His infinite mercy had brought us safely across the ocean. 

" We shall not make it to-night," I heard at length, so 
reluctantly sought my cabin. Some natives who were re- 
turning to their Alaskan homes came out from Social Hall. 
" Oh the Priest, the Priest, we have passed the Priest," they 
cried, pointing to an enormous rock. " We shall soon be 
there." Shortly after, we were at anchor, and all was quiet. 

June 20th. 
At seven a.m. I sprang from the bunk, threw back the 
shutter, and started with surprise and admiration. It was 
as though our grand Palisades of the Hudson were looking 
down upon us. Not, however, until one gazed upon the 
mountain-tops, covered everywhere with snow, could one 
realise to what a different clime the good ship had brought 
us. As she swung at her moorings, my first view was of a 
range of low hills covered with beautiful green grass, a few 
tents scattered here and there, a partially built river steamer 
on the ways, a large, two-storied, brick building with high- 
windowed roof, and in the water before it something that 
looked like the covered house-boat of Japan. Beyond the 
row of tents stood a wide, two-storied brick building with 
five windows, in front of which rode at anchor one of the 
Alaska Commercial Company's steamers. Then came a 



Land in Sight ! 15 

range of low buildings, a white edifice with two cupolas or 
spires, and that was all that could be seen from my cabin 
window. The whistle of a tugboat next attracts attention, 
as she comes alongside with a lighter. Two sturdy sailors 
are rowing three men to the St. Paul. A sailboat also is 
approaching, its several occupants taking as much apparent 
interest in us as our passengers are showing in them. 

Eve?iing. — Such an exciting day on shore ! A large party 
of us pushed off in the steam launch, and after all were com- 
fortably placed I took a seat in the doorway to be sheltered 
and also to enjoy the beautiful view. A young woman, find- 
ing it too cold outside, asked if there were room for one more 
in the cabin. I willingly moved aside to allow her to enter, 
instead of which she coolly took my place and allowed me to 
remain standing. We passed a rock completely covered 
with gulls, which reminded me, I scarcely know why, of a 
certain rock in China which was pointed out to me as the 
one on which superfluous girl babies were placed to be dis- 
posed of by the birds of the air. On reaching the wharf, 
great was our dismay at finding it towering high above our 
heads, necessitating a perpendicular climb on slats which 
shook under the feet of lighter weights than ours. As we 
were thinking sadly of turning back, K had a happy in- 
spiration. A rowboat was near, and its occupant hailed. 
He quickly came to our rescue. We had but to transfer 
ourselves to his boat, and presto ! we were landed safely 
on the beach. Several women who had followed our lead 
dashed on with never so much as a " thank you" to 
our assistant. We stopped to offer him remuneration but 
he assured us so cordially of his pleasure in having been 
able to oblige us, that we thanked him profusely and de- 
cided that we were going to like Alaskans. 

At the very end of the town we came to a collection of tents. 
At the entrance was a sign which read, " Laundry by the 
Lake." We inquired if we might enter and inspect the 
" Laundry," and the request was readily granted. After 

peeping first into one tent and then another E at last said 

to the good-looking young woman in charge : " But where is 



i6 



Two Women in the Klondike 



the laundry ? " " Here, ' ' said she, pointing to the tub in 
which her arm was immersed. " Are you getting rich ? " 
" Oh, no ! Madam ; I did not come for that. The laundry 
is only to keep me from feeling lonely while the men are 
away, as the days would otherwise be too long." " May I 
take a picture of your laundry ? " said I. " With pleasure, 
Madam; but may I have the time to put on my red shawl 
and my cap ? " " By all means, and call some of your 




EXTINCT VOLCANO IN UNALASKA. 



friends to join in the group." A shout brought a number 
of men, who entered into the spirit of the thing and posed to 
make an interesting picture. One threw a bag over his 
shoulder, another caught up a grip-sack, a third pretended 
to prepare a mess of porridge in a pail ; while a fourth looked 
hesitatingly as though to inquire whether he were really 
wanted. " Come along," cried K , " we are waiting for 



Land in Sight ! 17 

you ; the picture would never do without so handsome a 
fellow," and the others laughed at his embarrassment and 
pleasure. The laundress, who had been searching unsuccess- 
fully for her cap, was obliged to pose without it. After a 
short chat we asked for an address to which we might send 
one of the photographs. " Oh, we 're only tenting here," 
they replied; " we '11 meet you in Dawson, and get it then." 
One of the men explained that they had bought their tickets 
to Dawson, with the distinct understanding that the com- 
pany had river boats waiting for them, so that they should 
be carried safely and speedily up the Yukon, without delay; 



THE CEMETERY. 

upon reaching Unalaska, however, they were landed on the 
beach to make their way as best they could to their destina- 
tion, and many others had suffered a similar fate. This goes 
to prove that it is far wiser to travel by a first-class line, even 
though the cost of transportation be greater. 

Our next visit was to the cemetery, which we reached after 
climbing a short hill. Many mounds were unmarked ; others 
had a wooden cross, but no name. There was one with a 
marble slab and the inscription, " Sheltered at last," and 
three with pretentious iron railings which looked incon- 
gruous. As we wandered back towards the little town, we 



18 Two Women in the Klondike 

stopped to gather many beautiful wild- flowers and violets, 
that seemed so out of place under the snow-capped peaks. 
I stopped at the ' ' Jesse L,ee Home, ' ' to make inquiries in 
regard to this mission, feeling that the information would 
be grateful to those who could hear but seldom. On sending 
in my card I was ushered into a sitting-room, and while 
waiting I was pleasantly entertained by an interesting young 
couple who had been boarding at the " Home " for a fort- 
night. They were waiting for the Yukon to be free from ice 
that they might continue their journey, and were enjoying 
their stay immensely. " There is always something going 
on," said they. " The officers of the Bear have entertained 
us extensively, and many little festivities have been given 
in our honour." One of the teachers then entered, and, 
telling me that she was in the midst of great preparations for 
an exhibition to be given in the evening, asked if I would 
accompany her to the " Village store and Post-office," thus 
allowing her to kill two birds with one stone, and talk to me 
while at the same time accomplishing her errands. She 
spoke of her love for the work of helping and educating In- 
dian girls, but said, that the immorality in the village was 
so great that it was often most discouraging, for instead of 
having the assistance of the mothers, they seemed rather to 
encourage their daughters to intimacy with the white men. 
She also stated, that the Russian priest, disapproving of 
their sectarian teachings, tried to undermine their influence, 
and to wrest from them their charges. Here we reached the 
Post-office, and our ways parted. I was cordially invited to 
the evening entertainment, also to pay another visit on the 
morrow. I left, sad and pensive, to think that here among 
those dedicated to the service of the L,ord, instead of love and 
brotherly aid, there should be dissension, strife, and bitter- 
ness ! Why, if both were equally earnest, could they not 
work in unison ? 

' ' Seattle P. I. " [Post Intelligencer] was called by a news- 
vendor, and I made my first purchase of an ordinary daily 
journal of June 13th which had the mark " five-cents," in the 
corner. It was sold to me for twenty-five. " You will soon 



Land in Sight ! 19 

amass a fortune at that rate. " ' ' Oh, no ! I have been getting 
one dollar for them ; these are cheap," the man replied He 
had just disposed of three dozen five-cent badges at twenty- 
five cents each, he informed me. What will the prices at 

Dawson be ? E then joined me, and we wended our 

way to the wharf, expecting to take the steam-tug and reach 
the St Paul for the noon lunch-hour, but, on reaching the 
dock, we were told that the next trip would be at one o'clock, 




A KAYAK OR NATIVE BOAT. 

so we secured a rowboat. We were expressing some doubt 
as to its sea-worthiness, when its owner exclaimed that had 
it not been a fine one, he never should have brought it all 
the way from Seattle. As he rowed, he informed us that he 
also was waiting to get to Dawson, having been landed on 
the beach by an irresponsible steamship company which had 
taken his last penny in payment for a ticket, yet had fulfilled 



20 



Two Women in the Klondike 



less than half of their contract. He was now trying to turn 
an honest penny and earn sufficient to enable him to reach 
the promised land. On reaching the St Paul, we found the 
ladder far above us, and after rowing several times around 
the ship, calling in vain for someone to lower it, we went 
back to shore to escape the ropes thrown to us by kindly 
hands, as we feared being lassoed. Another walk and chat 




UNHAPPY BUT RESIGNED. 

with men who were as anxious to talk and explain, as we to 
ask whys and wherefores. At last came the launch, and as 
we neared the steamer's side, we trembled at thought of the 
chaff to come, after our ignominious retreat. Instead, we 
received a round of applause as we boarded, for which we 
could not understand the reason. Our luncheon had been 
saved for us by an attentive steward, and needless to say, was 
thoroughly enjoyed after our long tramp. The afternoon was 
passed in writing and watching the natives in their boats. 



Land in Sight ! 21 

Towards evening, the tug came alongside, with an un- 
usually fine-looking body of men on board. To our sur- 
prise, instead of climbing the gangway ladder, they stepped 
on board the coal-lighter and began taking off their coats. 
''What does this mean?" we asked in astonishment. 
" Who are they ? " " That 's the night-gang come to ' coal 
ship,' " replied one of our officers. We could scarcely be- 
lieve it possible that these great big splendid specimens, 
whose appearance of culture and general refinement bespoke 
a fitness for some higher calling, should so willingly perform 
a work apparently far beneath them, and to our expressions 
of astonishment the same officer made answer, " Oh, they 're 
down on their luck just now ; been dropped here by different 
steamers that could n't fill their contracts, an' then some o' 
them, the Alaska Commercial Company 's been feeding all 
winter, an' they '11 probably take a lot o' them on to Dawson 
an' give 'em their grub besides. Why this 'ere Company 's 
fed over three hundred men this winter, an' there ain't one 
of 'em but 'd be glad to work in the most menial position 
for 'em." 

June 21st. 

A steady drizzle, but I dressed and went up to feed the 
dogs, who were softly crying at sight of the land which 
they could not reach. Our plans were made to spend the 
day in a trip to Dutch Harbour, close by, a visit to the Rus- 
sian church, also to the Mission. The rain alone would not 
have prevented, but the thought of trying to climb up the 
wharf on slippery, shaking slats, of being pushed by those 
from below, and pulled by those from above, of the trouble 
we would give the men accompanying us — this all combined 
to cause us to remain on board, consoling ourselves that we 
might be able to carry out our programme on the return trip. 
The few merchants of the place might have made a good in- 
vestment by arranging an attractive landing-place, as there 
were a number of small articles which we would gladly have 
purchased. 

June 23d. 

At sea once more. After a quiet, peaceful day, the pass- 



22 Two Women in the Klondike 

engers congregated in the stern of the boat, where they were 
entertained by the stewards with mandolin and banjo music, 
until some of the women indicated a desire to dance. Part- 
ners were abundant. One of the characters — a Mr. O 

asked me if he might ' ' have the honour. ' ' I declined most 
politely, saying that I had only come to look on for a few 
moments, then walked rapidty forward. Footsteps quickly 
followed and a voice caused me to turn as it shouted, ' ' Say ! 
you may not think it, but I 'm a prize dancer, I am ! and 
't ain't often a lady gits a chance to refuse me ! I don't want 
you to think I 'm a-stickin' feathers in my cap, but I jess 
want ter tell you, that I kin put on a dress coat an' go to the 
finest kind of a ball, and have half the girls in the ball-room 
a beggin' me to dance with 'em, or I kin go inter a beer-hall 
an' dance with the best of 'em." " Evidently you 're not 
proud." " No, I ain't ; but you seem to be. You keep by 
yourself and seem to be stuck on your own sassiety. Why 
don't you give some o' us the benefit o' your conversation, 
inste'd o' writin' all the time ? Why don't you never dance 
when everybody else does ? Ain't that coz you 're proud ? 
Now you might n't think it of so heavy a man as me, but I 
tell you there ain't no one in it so far as dancin' 's concerned. 
I 've been the prize dancer all over the United States, and 
people mostly is proud to get me for a partner. Anyway, 
it 's the first time I 've asked and been refused, and it 's 
gallin' — that 's what it is." He was finally mollified, and 
his wounds healed by hearing that no one else should be 
granted the privilege which he had not been able to obtain. 

June 24th. 
Shouts of " land," awakened passengers this morning, and 
King Island was announced, but, unfortunately, it was too 
far off for pictures to be taken. After luncheon there was 
great excitement, and the upper, or shade deck, was crowded 
by many who gazed upon icebergs for the first time. Down 
they floated towards us, singly, and in fantastic shapes. We 
steamed through them carefully — then the pulse-beats of the 
engine were slowed, as we saw in the distance what seemed 



Land in Sight ! 



23 



to be an impenetrable barricade, and we began to realise the 
meaning of the old saying, ' ' We could hear ourselves think. ' ' 
A man was sent aloft to indicate a passageway. To our inex- 
perienced eyes, that long wall of ice before us seemed to shut 
out all hope of entrance, but the sailor guided us to a narrow 
doorway through which we passed into a clear sea. Not for 
long, however, did we steam at full speed. Far in the dis- 
tance a small cake of ice appeared, then another, and still 
another, until we were soon in what could only be termed an 




"TEN O'CLOCK AND THE SUN WAS SETTING." 



ice-field, with the stillness of death around and not even the 
voice of a bird calling to its mate to be heard. It is difficult 
to describe the solemn stillness which pervades this vast re- 
gion, dotted with ice-floes speeding noiselessly to destruction ; 
the silence unbroken by a single sound save the throbbing 
of the steamer as it advanced slowly through this wilderness 



24 Two Women in the Klondike 

of space. Language becomes too poverty stricken to express 
the awe and admiration which fill the soul at such a time. 

We were aroused from revery by hearing, "Yukon's 
broken up, sure enough. Would n't a' believed she could a' 
held so much ice. We 're all right to go in now if the river 
boat 's waiting for us as the Company promised, and we '11 be 
the first ones in, too. Won't ' the boys' give us a rousing wel- 
come ! " It was ten o'clock and the sun was setting. How 
we longed for the perfection of colour photography. No 
artist could ever have placed such wonderful shades on can- 
vas. At ii p.m. our kind fellow-passenger, Dr. D , took 

this photograph for me, hearing me express a wish for the 
magnificent cloud effects. 




CHAPTER IV 

ST. MICHAKLS 

June 25th. 

THE dropping of the anchor, the shouts, the lowering of 
boats, brought many a head to the windows. Three 
bells struck. Only half after five, and no further sleep, for 
there is St. Michaels, flat and uninteresting in appearance 
from this distance ; nothing to be seen but a few houses and 
tents, several ships and barges. We hear the shout, ' ' River 
has been open two weeks, ' ' so, expecting to be transferred 
at once, packing begins, and plenty of it there is, too, after a 
fortnight at sea. At eight o'clock we were told that there 
was not a river steamer in, and that we might be obliged to 
remain on board a week or more. After luncheon everyone 
hung about the gangway in " store clothes," ready and wait- 
ing for an opportunity to explore St. Michaels. Finally 
someone said to the First Officer, " Can't we go ashore ? " 
" Not in the ship's boats," replied he gruffly, and as the 
barge came alongside, on which the river freight was to be 
stowed he gave orders to rope the passageway, and we were 
penned in like a lot of sheep. Good Father R ap- 
proached, and, listening to the complaints, which were loud 
and long, insisted that we should be allowed to cross before 
the work of changing freight began. He was assisted in his 
efforts by a man who seemed to be in charge of the St. 
Michaels department of the Alaska Commercial Company, 
and who proved to be as helpful as their employees generally 
are. He quickly called for the gangplank, had the ropes 
cast aside, and a happy lot of passengers were soon on the 
tug. We found the point of attraction to be the store of the 

25 



26 Two Women in the Klondike 

Alaska Commercial Company, a large roomy building with 
post-office in one corner, similar to the arrangement at the 
settlement of Iliuliuk, Unalaska. The hooped veils were 
being inquired for by men as well as women, who expected 
with such protection to be able to escape the mosquito pest 
which makes life miserable in these regions. A very funny 
picture was thus presented as we looked at one another 
through such novel screens. The supply soon gave out, so 
an enterprising passenger purchased netting and wire from 




NOVEL MOSQUITO SCREENS. 

which she soon fashioned the required article, for which she 
charged and received one dollar each. 

On to the Custom House I went, but the door was locked, 
and the Indian on the porch informed me that the Inspector 
was taking a walk. He pointed him out in the distance. 
I followed, soon reached the end of the plank walk, then 
struck into the grassy, muddy soil, jumped several ditches 
or crossed on a plank, until a particularly marshy spot was 
reached, over which the Inspector, his wife, and friend had 
easily passed, being properly shod for such soil, but as they 
were within hailing distance, I called out and told my errand, 
which was, that as our Government does not take our word, 



St. Michaels 27 

even under oath, it would be necessary for me to have my 
sealskin wrap stamped before going into British territory, 
in order to prove on my return that I was not swearing 
falsely as to having been its lawful possessor before crossing 
the boundary line ; otherwise I must be deprived of it, no 
matter how cold the weather, or submit to unjust payment. 
Truly, a brilliant idea, which Uncle Sam would never ap- 
prove of could he but realise the humiliation thereof. 

Some years ago, when about to make a trip through Europe, 
a brilliant and prominent foreign ambassador kindly pre- 
sented me with a paper, addressed to custom-house officials, 
testifying as to my position and that I was worthy of every 
consideration. This not only passed me through every custom- 
house of the Old World, but caused me to receive the most 
distinguished marks of courtesy. I first presented it in Italy, 
where the chief himself came to see that my boxes were 
passed and asked if he could be of further service. After 
thanking him most warmly I looked about for someone to 
fee. I tried to slip a sum of money into the hand of one of 
the underlings near me, but he drew himself up and said, 
" Signora, to a soldier of Italy, never ! " On my return to 
New York, after a long absence from " my own, my native 
land," on showing this paper and explaining what it had 
done for me in other parts of the world, I meekly said, " It 
is probably of no use here," to which came the quick reply, 
' ' You bet your sweet life it ain't, ' ' and the gowns which had 
been so carefully packed were tumbled into a hopeless mass 
of chiffons, which caused me to assert mentally that if ever 
women do have their rights, and should I have a little brief 
authority, my first movement would be to have " packers " 
on the wharf to soothe the injured feelings, .smooth out the 
wrinkles, and repair damages done by this insulting search. 
Of course this is all irrelevant, but I feel as the small boy 
described his mother's state, — " Ma promised she would n't 
tell Pa, but she jess could n't help it, an' now she 's done it 
she feels bully." 

When the St. Michaels Inspector was informed that I had 
been told in San Francisco that it would be easier to have the 



28 Two Women in the Klondike 

stamping done by him, he replied, " Oh yes ! they think we 
have nothing to do up here, but I have no appliances what- 
ever for that sort of thing ; however, if you will send in an 
application describing the wrap, and have the purser or 
someone, sign that you purchased it in the United States, 
then I will make out a paper with the official seal, and you 
may sew it inside the lining. This ended my first interview 
in St. Michaels. I took snap-shots of many of the little one- 
story houses that faced the water, made groups of small In- 
dian children, who seemed always ready to be photographed 
and obeyed readily the motion of the hand. The interesting 
pamphlet arranged by the Alaska Commercial Company tells 
us that " the natives about St. Michaels and all over the big 
Yukon delta, are Eskimo belonging to that strange race 
which stretches from the domain of the Aleuts on the west 
to ' Greenland's icy mountains ' on the east. They have 
nothing in common with the Chukchi of the easternmost 
Siberian land, any more than they have with the Aleuts of 
the islands, which fact has gone against the theory of the 
original settlement of America by way of Bering Strait. 
These people form a most interesting study during the brief 
wait at St. Michaels, while baggage and freight are being 
transferred from the ocean liners to one of the swift and 
commodious river steamers. They are among the mildest, 
and unquestionably the filthiest of humankind. Personal 
cleanliness in the winter is entirely unattempted. The 
Eskimo diet consists principally of rotted fish and rancid seal 
oil, which give to their habitations an odour from which the 
nostril of the white man recoils. Though lazy and improvid- 
ent past all belief, they are tractable, have the powers of 
mimicry exceptionably developed, readily unravel the puz- 
zles of white children, and even master chess in a way to 
put to shame their missionary teachers." It then goes on 
with a description of the geese, ducks, snipe, and other 
water fowl in countless thousands, willow grouse, deer, 
caribou, and larger game, while the fishing " is merely a 
matter of dropping in a line with properly baited hooks, 
when the creel of the angler will soon be full." 



St Michaels 



29 



Time and space will not permit me to give further ex- 
tracts in regard to the history of St. Michaels, nor the ro- 
mantic story of how a massacre was averted by a warning 
given through an Indian maiden to her white lover in the 
fort ; while, as for the ' ' outfit ' ' instructions, already too 
many books have been published on the subject. I paid a 
visit to the Russian priest, but he proved so uncommunicat- 
ive that, aside from learning that he had been there since 




ON BOARD THE ST. PAUL. 



1882, there was no other information of value to be obtained. 
He devoted but five moments to showing me the interior of 
the church. As I, in parting, slipped fifty cents into the 
hand of his attendant, he whispered to the priest, " ichi ban." 
This incident is only worth relating because these Indians 
had already seemed to me very much like the Japanese (except 
that the latter are probably the cleanest race in the world) 
and " ichi ban " is Japanese for number one, or " first class." 



30 



Two Women in the Klondike 



It was pleasant to return to the cool, comfortable ship after 
such unwonted exercise. Those who had visited the native 
quarters, advised us by all means to avoid them. Old Alaskan 
travellers on board told of a dance that could be seen, by 
crawling through a hole and then dropping into a cavern. 
The dancers enter from a subterranean passage, and perform 
until exhausted. The greatest objection to being one of the 
audience (we were informed) is, that one reaches daylight 
with clothing so covered with vermin that it is unfit for 
further service. I innocently asked if we might not hire the 
dancers to entertain us in open air, but was laughingly told 
that underground performances would not be appropriate to 
such changed surroundings. Six bells ! and it was still light, 
and difficult to imagine that it lacked but one hour of mid- 
night. 




CHAPTER V 

A TRIAI, OF PATIENCE 

Sunday, June 26th. 

THERE is something decidedly wrong with the water- 
tanks, and the water has been growing worse daily. 
Stories vary, as do all stories on board ship. The popular 
theory is, that the oil from the machinery has leaked into 
the tanks ; it is also said that they are trying to make them 
less porous, but their efforts prove the remedy worse than 
the disease, so that, to quench one's thirst in " Adam's ale " 
means accepting a most nauseating dose. It is a great pity, 
for we have been given an unusually fine chef ; not even 
on the Atlantic greyhounds have such delicious and tempt- 
ing dishes been placed on the table, but for those who care 
not for wine, nor tea, nor coffee — well, perhaps they are to 
blame for not being more " up to date." We take into con- 
sideration that this is the St Paul's first trip and that any 
slight defect will be remedied before a second voyage, but 
that is not very consoling at the present moment. 

A party is just returning from a morning spent on shore. 
One of the passengers whom we have named " the cherub " 
climbs the ladder and shouts enthusiastically : " Oh, every- 
one on shore tells me that my brother Harry is a multi- 
millionaire ; that he owns dozens of claims, and has sent 
word for me to join him in Dawson at once." And as the 
' ' cherub ' ' seated himself at my side, he gave me a little 
sketch of his life. Every one rejoiced at the ' ' cherub's ' ' good 
news, as his kindliness had endeared him to the roughest on 
board, so that many and fervent were the wishes that he was 

31 



3 2 . Two Women in the Klondike 

not being deceived by a " Yukon lie." Next came one of 

the passengers, a Mr. Q , who said that he had decided 

to winter at Dawson, and offered me his return ticket for one 
hundred and fifty dollars, saying that if purchased at the 
office of the Company its price would be three hundred dol- 
lars. Woman's love for a bargain caused me to consider 
the proposition, but upon consulting someone able to give 
me good counsel, I was advised : " Buy your ticket only 
when you are quite ready to return ; there will soon be much 
competition on the river, and prices are likely to tumble, so 
that ' sufficient unto the day,' etc., should be borne in 
mind." 

And now the question is asked on all sides, " How soon 
may we leave St. Michaels ? " In San Francisco, where many 
Alaskan companies were trying to cut each other's throats, 
we were told at different offices : "Ozcr river boats are at St. 
Michaels waiting the arrival of our ocean steamers. No mat- 
ter what you may be told by other representatives, they have 
no river boats there, of that we can assure you, and you may 
be obliged to wait at St. Michaels all summer if you fail to 
exercise great care in the selection of the line by which you 
go. W 7 e make immediate connection, and, by booking here, 
you will be the first up the Yukon to Dawson." Well, we 
followed the best of advice, selected the line of the oldest 
and most reliable company, and here we are, and here we 
are likely to remain, the Lord knows how long ; for the water 
in the Yukon is so low, we are told, that all of the Company's 
river steamers are high and dry on bars. The pessimists 
say, that "the tide will not rise sufficiently to release them 
from imprisonment, and that even should we succeed in 
reaching Dawson there will be no possible chance of return- 
ing before next year." Such stories, however, are always 
received by me with a very big grain of salt ; so I am not 
ready to listen to the wiseacres who say, ' ' Take my advice 
and turn back ere it be too late." 

A negro on shore entertained a group of listeners yester- 
day with the following : " Git ter Dawson ? Mebbe you 
thinks you 's a gwine to git dar ; that 's what I thought 



A Trial of Patience 33 

when they dropped me yere ten days ago, but I ain't a think- 
in' that no more. Every day they 's said, ' River steamer 
comin' sure to-day ! ' I 's heard dat for ten days — yes, 
sira? ! ten days I been here a waitin' on it — same old story 
eb'ry day for ten days an' mebbe after you all 's been a 
waitin' ten days you won't believe no more 'bout dem ribber 
steamers dan I do." 

Not far from our anchorage a barge is being constructed 
which we are told will soon be finished — some say in a week ; 
others, in a day or two. There is a tiny river steamer near, 
which might carry some of our ninety-four passengers, three 
in a room. 

Monday, June 27th. 

So many wild tales of detention here were floating about 
the ship last evening, that, when we heard that according to 
the latest yarn we should have at least a fortnight to remain, 
it seemed to me quite necessary to get facts from head- 
quarters ; so, sending for one of the owners, who was 
himself a passenger from San Francisco to St. Michaels, I re- 
quested him kindly to put all doubts and conjectures at an 
end, and reveal to us our fate. He said that only once in 
ten years could it happen as at present, that there would be 
nothing ready to take us up the Yukon. The boats of the 
Alaska Commercial Company had always been the first to 
enter the river, but this year, owing to the very low state of 
the water, they are grounded, and their new steamers are 
not quite finished. " However," added he, " one is so 
nearly ready that we hope to be able to transfer the pas- 
sengers in a day or two. It will accommodate about forty, 
while the others will have good quarters prepared for them 
on the freight barge. ' ' To my question as to how the cabi ns 
would be lighted, he smiled and said, " Oh, you won't need 
artificial light where you are going." He then kindly 
offered to have my sealskin marked, to save me the trouble 
of visiting St. Michaels again. At 10 p.m., while sitting on 
deck reading by the light of the setting sun, the " cherub " 

came to inform me that the Roanoke was coming into the 

3 



34 Two Women in the Klondike 

harbour, towing two river steamers, which, we were in- 
formed, were freighted, and ready to make the trip to Daw- 
son without delay. How we groaned ! we, who had had the 
advantage of being the first to reach St. Michaels, could not 
bear the thought of being passed by the Roanoke, or any 
other ship. What sympathy we felt for some of our fellow- 
passengers who were taking in large cargoes whose value 
would be greatly depreciated in case of not arriving on time, 
and here we had not only the Roanoke to contend with but 
another steamer of the Columbia Navigation Company. 
Two rivals ! 

A Mr. S , of Brooklyn came on board and was pre- 
sented to us. Said he had married Miss "L , of same 

town, who was urging him to return, " with or without his 
pile, ' ' but as he had staked claims about Rampart City, he 
thought it unwise to abandon them, for he considered that 
the first year was only a preparation for the real work of the 
year to follow. His stories of camp experience were most 
interesting, but as we expect to have personal ones, his will 
not be recorded. 

Tuesday, June 2Sth. 

Still in the harbour of St. Michaels with " all hands " im- 
patient and growling at the detention ; however, the old 
saying that " misery loves company," seems most true in 
this case and few there are who are not delighted to know 
that although the Roanoke and the steamer of the Columbia 
Navigation Company towed their own river boats, for some 
as yet unexplained reason they are not able to go farther. 
Those who have cargo on board are almost frantic at the 
thought of prospective losses through this delay, while the 
less interested members of the party fear that the best claims, 
houses, and sites will be gobbled up before our arrival. 
Meanwhile, all are praying that the Portla?id, with our new 
river boat, may be seen soon entering the harbour, and are 
straining their eyes in search of her. What a lottery is life ! 
and how our fortunes hang upon the slightest contingency. 
This afternoon, while almost all our passengers were on 




, 



36 Two Women in the Klondike 

shore, I remained to give the dogs a run, and was well re- 
paid for it by a visit from a New York man who is on his 
way home, having " made his pile." Only eight days ago 
he was in Dawson, so was able to clinch the " Yukon lies," 
and give me late information. According to his story, the 
river has never before been so low. Steamers are lying 
aground all along its banks. They have little chance of 
coming down, nor have we of going up, unless a heavy rain 
sets in, for the snow and ice have already melted and disap- 
peared. Nothing can go through now drawing more than 
scant four feet of water. My informant left Dawson on a 
tiny steamer scarcely fitted to carry twenty-five of the hun- 
dred men who crowded it, but so determined were they to 
reach the " outside," that, although they were literally 
wedged in like sardines, no complaint did they utter. He 
was surprised and amused at the questions that people put 
to him simply because of his having wintered in Dawson, 
and said indignantly, " Why, one woman even asked me 
how much money I had made this year, and did not seem to 
realise the impertinence of the question, so I told her seven 
hundred and fifty thousand (might as well have said that as 
anything else), and she replied, 'Oh, how nice ! Annie, 
come here ! Here 's a gentleman who 's just made seven 
hundred and fifty thousand dollars in Dawson this winter ! 
Just look at him ! ' and they stared at me as though I were 
a wild animal ! " He laughed heartily at the tale that we 
should be obliged to pay one thousand dollars a month 
ground-rent for a place to pitch our tent, and said, " Al- 
though Dawson is now so crowded that men jostle each 
other in walking, prices have not begun to reach that figure 
except in the business street on the water-front." Upon 
telling him that I had the option on a house and lot with a 
spring on the ground, for two thousand dollars, he advised 
me not to conclude the bargain until after having seen the 
habitation. 

Another visitor was a most interesting man who had 
staked some claims on the Koyukuk River and was about to 
return to work them, but as many of our passengers arrived 



A Trial of Patience 



37 



just then from an afternoon on shore and all were desirous 
of obtaining information from him, I returned to my writing. 
While at dinner, the steward announced that a lady on deck 

wished to see me. " Who can it be ? " said B . " You 

know nobody in St. Michaels." I rushed up, to find Mrs. 

U , of Chicago, whom I had last seen a schoolgirl at 

Fraulein H 's " pension for young ladies," in Dresden. 

The astonishing part of the incident was that she was a pas- 
senger on one of our rival ships — the Roanoke, on her way to 
join her husband, who was engaged in stock-brokerage and 
real estate in Dawson. Only a short time had we for remi- 
niscences, as Mrs. U was engaged to dine on the Bear. 

After her departure, a small party of us spent the evening 
on the upper deck watching the glorious sunset, after which 

Dr. D took some midnight photographs which were very 

successful. 




CHAPTER VI 

WE MEET OED FRIENDS 

Wednesday, June 29th. 

GOOD-MORNING," said a pleasant voice at my win- 
dow. " Your friend Mrs. U , is coming over 

from the Roanoke to dine with me this evening, and I came 
to ask if you would join us at half after seven. We shall be 
twenty-five at table, and only six of the party ladies." 
' ' How delightful ! quite makes one feel as though at home 
again," and a hasty search is begun in the steamer trunk in 
order to find something worthy of so unusual an event, be- 
fore resuming the writing of home letters, as this may be 
the last opportunity for many a long day, and it helps to 
pass the weary hours of waiting for the river boat which 
never comes. 

Later. Did not go on shore to-day as the water is so 
rough and the facilities for landing so poor that the tempta- 
tion was not sufficiently great. Those who made the trip 
were obliged to climb ladders and perform gymnastic feats, 
before reaching terra fir ma, while some waited hours for the 
return tug, as rowboats were out of the question. The 
New York man called again, and among other stories, 
told us of a Klondiker, who had taken a frozen turkey to 
Dawson, for which he was immediately offered one hundred 
and fifty dollars, but refused, preferring to raffle it. The 
result was that he pocketed three hundred dollars by this 
proceeding. 

The monotony on board was varied this afternoon by the 

kindness of Dr. D and Mr. H , who gave me my 

first lesson in developing photographs. 

38 



We Meet Old Friends 39 

Thursday, June 30th. 

Such a brilliant entertainment and delicious dinner as we 
enjoyed last evening must be recorded as one of the most 
pleasing incidents of our trip, no matter what delightful 
events fate may still have in store for us. Our host, Mr. 

R , has evidently had good experience in entertaining, 

judging from the very successful result. My near neighbours 
at table were the Captain of the Bear, who, with his inex- 
haustible fund of amusing and instructive stories, divided 

honours with brilliant Mr.S , whose conversation sparkled 

with witticisms and repartee. The dinner could not have 
been surpassed, even "Eastern oysters" being supplied. 
During the feast we were regaled by the music of mandolin 
and banjo, and, later, adjourned to the large hall below the 
main-deck, where dancing was enjoyed until one o'clock. 
As I started then to take leave, protests were heard on all 
sides. <( Don't break up the party so soon. Why, it 's still 
daylight; how can one go to bed before dark ? " etc. 

To-day, after luncheon, Captain T , commander of the 

Bear, called for a party of us to spend the afternoon on board 
his craft. We met there a number of passengers from the 
Roanoke, the general and officers from the station, and the 
Mite of St. Michaels, besides three officers of the U. S. S. 
Wheeling, which had just come into the harbour. The 
genial Captain entertained us most charmingly, and as I 
was leaving, presented me with an excellent photograph of 
the St. Paul. 

After dinner the steward handed me the card of Captain 

S , commanding the U. S. S. Wheeli?ig. The St. Paul's 

captain kindly offered his cabin as a reception-room, which 

E and I gladly accepted, delighted to have an evening 

with an old friend. He expressed great astonishment at our 
desire to visit so uncivilised a portion of the globe, and kindly 
asked to be called upon in case he could be serviceable to us 
in any way. 

July 1st. 

After many days without going ashore, I went this morn- 
ing under the escort of the Doctor, who assisted me over the 



40 Two Women in the Klondike 

ditches, in the tramp to " Hotel Fort Get There." Many 
times we stopped for a group or a novel view. The exterior 
of the modern hotel was really far superior to anything we 
had imagined. There were rocking-chairs on the balcony 
and a piano in the drawing-room. Crowds of miners every- 
where. Mrs. U (who, in common with all other pas- 
sengers of the Roanoke, had been landed at St. Michaels, 
there to remain until time for the departure to Dawson) was 
at home, received us at once, and complied readily with my 
request to allow me to peep at her room. I supposed it 
would be very tiny, but that it would be at least all her own. 
Tiny it was, but to my astonishment there was a bed in each 
of the four corners, and above these beds other four. There 
were two women dressing in the small space in the centre. 
Handsome silk gowns hanging on rusty nails looked most 
incongruous. Just a board floor with not even a rug. Two 
Chinamen rapped at the door to ask if they might " do the 
room, Missie ? " I begged permission to photograph just 
one corner, which was granted upon condition that I would 

not send the photograph to H , ' ' for she will be sure to 

say," added Mrs. U , " same old Minnie — room always 

in disorder." The light was so poor that the result is sure 
to be unsatisfactory. I asked for a glass of water, which 
was brought in a tin cup ! The colour of the water was that 

of weak coffee, but the taste was delicious. With Mrs. U 

accompanying us, we inspected the storehouse, but the mos- 
quitoes were so thick and ravenous, that, although men and 
women were heavily veiled, there was not much relief to be 
found, as the insects, which have not learned to sing as do 
their cousins at home, were able to crawl under the screens 
undetected. 
We walked back to St. Michaels, where, meeting Mr. 

S , he was kind enough to accompany me to the custom 

house to get the certificate which he had not yet been able 
to secure. It seemed such a farce that he should be called 

upon to testify that K 's sealskin wrap and mine had 

come from the United States. He then escorted me to the 
barge, which was being prepared to take us up the river. 



We Meet Old Friends 



41 



Every carpenter in St. Michaels had been secured to work 
night and day, so we still have hopes of reaching Dawson 
before the others, even though we are making a late start. 
On returning to the St. Paul, we photographed four natives 
in their kayaks, 
which they handle 
in the most marvel- 
lous manner. Our 
passengers, who try 
them for the first 
time, are unable to 
balance themselves, 
but the Company's 
pamphlet tells us 
that the Indians 
" venture in these 
skin -boats into 
troubled seas; with 
a flirt of the paddle 
turn themselves 
completely over, 
bobbing up after 

completing the under-water round as lightly as so many 
corks, and in these frail cockle-shells hunt the leviathans 
of the deep." They remind one of the Japanese, and have 
the same good-natured, smiling faces ; they laugh heartily 
as Europeans try to bargain with them, taking as a huge 
joke the offer of two dollars for an article which they are pre- 
senting at double that price, and, finally, they paddle away 
without having made a sale, but looking as happy as though 
they had accomplished a successful stroke of business. 

An interesting visit this afternoon was from a man who 
carried mail over the Pass to Dawson. Government facili- 
ties being far from satisfactory, the miners at Dawson — rich 
and poor — longing for news from home had promised one 
dollar a letter to anyone brave enough to undertake the 
perilous trip. " I needed the money," said our visitor, 
" and so took the job, but was detained and delayed by 




ALASKAN INDIANS IN KAYAKS. 



4 2 Two Women in the Klondike 

many hard and unpleasant experiences, until, just before 
getting back, a friend came to meet me and said that as I 
had been so long on the trail the miners had held a meeting 
and decided that they would not pay me. I just walked 
right in, put the mail on the table, put my shooter on top 
of it, and said, ' Gentlemen, you are several hundred, and 
I 'm one and unarmed, but not a man touches a letter 
without paying his dollar for it ; otherwise, back they go to 
the post-office from whence they came.' Well, I got four 
thousand dollars on that one job. I came here without 
a penny, from a farm that did n't pay. The first year I 
sent three hundred and fifty dollars home to my wife and 
children ; the next year seven hundred dollars ; each 
year more, and now I 'm sending three thousand five hun- 
dred dollars at a time. Have been out here seven years, 
and intended to go home this month, but my three part- 
ners all went home at this season of the year, and the 
summer heat killed 'em. So I 'm a-goin' to wait till 
autumn. I 've got plenty o' claims an' I '11 sell every one 
so soon as I can get my price," added he, with a wink, as 
he went over the side to take the tug for shore. " What 
did you think of your visitor?" said a passenger to me. 
" Most entertaining," I replied. " Other people think so, 
too," said he, " or at least I suppose so, as he has earned 
the name of ' Windy Bill.' " 

At 10.30 p.m. Dr. D approached rapidly, saying, 

" Come to the stern of the boat; I want to show you an un- 
usual sight." The "cherub" and I followed, wondering 
and silent, until the Doctor said, " Look ! " A great ball 
of fire was rising in the east — in the west, a similar ball of 
fire was sinking. The grandeur and magnificence were so 
impressive that we gazed in silence upon the wondrous works 
of the Lord. 

July 2d. 

There are so many prognostications that we may not be 
able to get ' ' out ' ' (entering Alaska is always spoken of as 
" going in; " leaving it, as " going out ") this winter, that I 
am sending home by this mail to get an outfit for developing 



We Meet Old Friends 43 

photographs, as the Doctor has been good enough to promise 
me all necessary instructions. 

Later. A man-of-war's boat came alongside. An officer 
in uniform boarded the St. Paul, and inquired for Mrs. 

H . It was my old friend, Lieutenant C , who said: 

1 ' How unexpectedly we meet, and in what curious parts of 
the world. I could scarcely believe it possible when I heard 
that you were here, on your way to Dawson. Whoever 
would have dreamed of your becoming one of a band of 
pioneers. ' ' Reminiscences of life in Europe, Japan, and at a 
certain navy yard not far from San Francisco made the 

evening pass rapidly. We were joined by Captain S 

and Lieutenant T of the Wheeling, and, although it was 

9 p.m. I photographed the group on the upper deck success- 
fully. After they left, w^e chatted with the Doctor, the 
" cherub," and Mr. R until six bells struck and re- 
minded us, that, although still so light that the canary was 
singing and the dogs could not decide to enter their tent, it 
was quite time for us to separate. 

July 3d. 

A cold, rough, rainy, windy day, the steam turned on, 
and everyone trying to keep warm. At half after eleven 

Captain S came to take us to lunch with him on the 

Wheeling. We were obliged to watch our chance as the seas 
dashed against the side of the boat and jump into the steam 
launch as she rose. After an exciting spin across, we found 
ourselves once more upon the deck of an American man-of- 
war. We were so delightfully entertained, that we might 
have found it difficult to make our adieux had we not hap- 
pened to see the arrival of another steamer from Dawson, 
the sight of which put us in a feverish state of excitement to 
obtain the latest news from our future home. Our first news 
was, that the " cherub's " brother had arrived, and presented 
him with any number of claims, to sell or to work as he 
pleased ; the dear " cherub's" face was beaming, and we, 
in common with others rejoiced at his good fortune. The 
captain exclaimed, " I 'm glad those boys are in luck, for 
their mother is one of the loveliest of women." 



44 



Two Women in the Klondike 



Wild stories were circulated by the new arrivals, and we 
could choose for ourselves those we thought most worthy 
of credence. Some said they were leaving enormously rich 
claims behind them, as it did not pay to work them with 
Canadian laws becoming more stringent and the royalty so 
exorbitant. They had come to the conclusion that a syndi- 
cate was trying to force the true owners out, and take pos- 



.yfiifj 




SUCCESSFUL MINERS RETURNING HOME. 

session of the abandoned property. On one side we heard 
that those in Dawson were so wealthy that they did not care 
what they paid for desired articles; on the other, they were 
so poor that they were unable to raise the money to leave the 
country; as for our informants, they declared that they were 
taking out two millions among them, while there was five 
hundred and fifty thousand dollars in the safe of their 
steamer, — which may or may not be true. 



We Meet Old Friends 45 

The Doctor, who has become enthused with the unlimited 
possibilities in this wonderful country, has decided finally to 
remain for the winter, and is now fitting himself out with 
furs and other necessary articles, as are many of the pas- 
sengers, who came only " to see," but remain hoping to 

conquer. K and I have already grub-staked trusty 

men, to go to the rich Koyukuk River — two we have sent in 
with supplies for two years each, while to another we have 
given a sufficient amount for assessment work on six claims. 
All in life is a lottery. One prize from this river, which we 
consider the richest in Alaska, would more than repay us. 

Midnight. Such excitement ! The Bella came in from 
Dawson this evening, towing a barge containing over two 
hundred passengers, and, although it was still raining, they 
had but a canvas cover over their sleeping accommodations. 
As the barge was made fast to the St. Paul, we watched the 
crowd of returned miners to see if we might judge by their 
faces whether they had been successful in their search for 
gold. The greater number were clothed in Jerseys, and 
trousers made from blankets. The gangway ladder was let 
down. The purser stood at the head of the landing, and 
the miners came up in the most orderly fashion, after having 
made room for the half-dozen women to precede them. 
Some had grips so heavy that it was necessary to set them 
down on each step for a moment's rest. Others were so 
burdened by a bag on the back that it needed no X-rays to 
tell us of the gold within; then came men with weighty 
boxes, followed by men whose necks were decorated with 
what looked like bologna sausages, as they dangled at their 
sides, but were only skins stuffed with gold dust. ' ' They 're 
just carrying their gold that a-way for efFect, , ' whispered 
one of the women from the barge, " and they 'd oughter 
have it stolen to teach 'em not to put on so many airs." 

Two men climbed the ladder, staggering under a box 
over which they had stood guard from Dawson. We were 
told, also, that it contained seventy-five thousand dollars. 
Then came two men with an enormous valise on a stick, an 
end of the stick on their shoulders — the weight bending 



46 Two Women in the Klondike 

them almost double. After that, followed the reverse side 
of the picture — a poor fellow carried on board with frozen 
feet and legs ; another, too weak from scurvy to walk, borne 
in the arms of two men ; still another who had been blinded 
by snow was carefully led up the ladder. As we watched 
those who had been unsuccessful, we were filled with great 
pity. Those who had started out with high hopes only to 
return helpless ! Pity also we felt for those who had gained 
enormous riches, knowing but too well of the many traps 
prepared for them, and from which some of their number 
might not escape. This large addition to the ship's guests 
was stowed away in a remarkably short space of time, and 
the joyful announcement was made that we were to be trans- 
ferred to the new barge on the morrow, after an early 
breakfast. 

July 4th. 

Scarcely had we finished breakfast, when the second com- 
plement of guests appeared upon the scene and took our 
places ; they were followed by a third. Luncheon was an- 
nounced, and still no order to transfer our effects. A man- 
of-war's boat came alongside, bringing me a note, the latest 
papers from Seattle, Harper's Weekly, and, to my great de- 
light, a two-gallon demijohn of delicious sparkling water. 

Mr. O caught sight of the demijohn through the open 

door, and shouted, " Hulloa ! where did you get that 
whiskey? Looks good! Sampled it yet?" — "No, but 
you may." An eager hand was outstretched for the demi- 
john, and the crowd that had gathered at O 's loud 

tones laughed with delight at the surprised air of the victim 
when he realised his mistake. After luncheon we had visits 
from Lieutenants C and A of the Wheeling. Cap- 
tain S also came to bid us good-bye, as the Wheeling 

was to sail on the morrow, and we wondered in what part 
of the world we should meet next. We were much interested 

in a Mrs. C , from Dawson, who modestly showed us the 

nuggets from her several bags. They were of all sizes and she 
had panned them herself, or taken them ' ' from the dump ' ' 
she said. One alone was worth two hundred and fifty dollars. 



We Meet Old Friends 



47 



Dinner is over, and we are still on board, although the 
barge workmen are allowed scarcely a moment for sleep. 
Those waiting for our rooms are very patient and uncom- 
plaining, which is rather unusual in so large a party, as 
they had fully anticipated being given our comfortable beds 
to-night. The harbour is crowded ; several barges have 
been lost while being towed from Unalaska here, and if the 
owners of the St. Paul were inclined to be grasping, they 
could send us up the river three in a cabin ; but we have 
been treated most handsomely, as though to atone for the 
keen disappointment which this unexpected delay is causing 
us, and the St. Paul is seemingly kept here for our comfort, 
although long overdue in San Francisco. 




CHAPTER VII 

TRANSFERRED AT LAST 

Tuesday, July 5th. 

STILL/ on board, waiting to be transferred. A man-of- 
war's boat has just left the side, having brought us a 
few extra luxuries for our voyage, and letters wishing us a 
successful expedition, and we are once more indebted to the 
kind officers of the Wheeling. We watch the boat as she 
skims over the water carrying our note of thanks, watch the 
sailors as they haul her up; all is ready, and the Wheeling 
steams slowly out of harbour while we wave a last adieu. I 
had almost forgotten a little incident in connection with her 
when she first came into port. Many of our passengers were 
desirous of visiting her, but were ignorant of the ways and 

means. One of them approached E , saying, ' ' May I have 

the pleasure o' takin' you on board that there American man- 

o'-war?" "Thank you, no," said E politely. Mr. 

Boastful drew himself up, and in loud tones said, " Well, 
you 'd much better go with me than any o' the other fel- 
lows on board o' this 'ere ship, coz I bet you they don't 
know a livin' soul on board the Wheeling, an' as for me, 
why the bos'n 's a pertikler friend o' mine — known him 
all my life — an' you 're makin' a big mistake if you think 
yer kin git anyone else to show yer round half as well." 

At 11 a.m., not having received any orders, we decided 
to go on shore for the mail. Scarcely had we boarded the 
tug, when the gong was sounded and we heard the shout, 
" Passengers from the St. Paul return and take over their 
luggage to barge." As we rejoiced loudly that the sum- 

48 



Transferred at Last 



49 



mons had come at last, a returned Dawsonite exclaimed, 
4( You would n't be so happy if you could realise where you 
are going." 

We had some difficulty in getting our pets off. The dogs 
were crowded into the pilot-house, leaving room only for the 
man at the wheel ; the parrot was scolding at being dis- 




THE WHEELING. 



turbed; the pigeons were frightened and fighting each other; 
only the canary was contented and continued to sing merrily. 
We had heard such exaggerated stories about the river boats 
that we were pleasantly surprised at the reality, but preferred 
accommodations on the barge, as the cabins had but two 
berths, while those on the steamer Leah had three — one just 
off the floor, one very near the ceiling, and one between the 
two. Neither E nor I felt equal to the gymnastic per- 



50 Two Women in the Klondike 

formance required to " turn in " and " out " and were de- 
cidedly averse to sleeping where we could not sit up without 
bumping our heads and bending our backs double. The 
cabins on the barge, although very primitive and constructed 
in the cheapest possible fashion, were new and clean, with 
comfortable mattresses ; the beds, table linen, and blankets 
were also all new, and the basins, carafes, and toilet articles 
of enamelled agate. We could nowhere see prospective dis- 
comforts such as we had read of, so started out determined 
to enjoy all that was pleasant, and to close our eyes to any- 
thing which must be endured because it could not be cured. 
A table of pine ran through the centre of the barge, but as 
the galley was not quite complete, all barge passengers were 
to have their meals on the steamer Leah, which was to take 
us in tow. Her dining-room was far too small for so large 
a number, consequently it was first come, first served, and the 
stools at the table made one feel as though at a lunch counter. 
There was a rush for rooms, but, as Mr. S had dis- 
tinctly told us that in case there should be a sufficient num- 
ber of cabins E and I should each have one, we made no 

effort to " scramble " with the others, but went on shore to 
give the dogs their first run since leaving San Francisco. 
We had been many times warned that the native dogs would 
attack them in a bod) T , so we kept as near to headquarters 
and the miners as possible, knowing that the latter would 
be ready to help us keep our beauties from a fight ; but we had 
neither the attack from the native dogs, nor the enjoyment 
of seeing Ivan and Queen dashing in mad joy and rolling 
on the turf. They walked sedately by our sides as though 
they had never been weeks from shore, while the enemy 
skulked in the rear, waiting for a chance to bite and run, 
and were so cowardly that they disappeared if we but raised 
our hands in a threatening manner. A very unexpected 
thing did happen though. The few cows of the place, that 
had never been known to seem aware of the existence of 
other dogs, immediately gave chase to ours, and in such a 
determined manner that the men had to stand in front of us- 
and pelt them with stones, shouting to us to seek cover. 



Transferred at Last 5 1 

After the danger was over, the cows followed down a side 
street, in a manner which we should not have believed pos- 
sible had we not been eye-witnesses, hiding behind the small 
houses to dodge the men and stones, but peeping around 
the corners as though to watch a chance to break through 
the ranks. 

The Collector of the Port took the greatest interest in Ivan. 
An old man stopped to ask many questions about his pedi- 
gree, saying that he had owned a descendant of one of Bis- 
marck's dogs. All whom we met were very talkative ; one 
poor fellow said he was coming " out " after a five years' stay 
in Dawson, thoroughly broken up with malaria. On our 
return to the barge, we were informed that there were at 
least two in each cabin, so that K and I made no com- 
plaint at being at last obliged to room together. " There is 
some advantage in being unpopular," said one of the pas- 
sengers; " everyone on board has absolutely refused to share 

X 's room ; consequently he is triumphantly telling that 

he is the only one lucky enough to have a cabin to himself, 
all unconscious of the reason for his solitude." 

About a year ago, while sojourning at Point-a-Pic, my 
imagination was greatly excited by articles about the founder 
of Dawson, with which the newspapers were filled. The 
more I read, and the more I heard of the Klondike, the more 
necessary it seemed to me to meet this wonderful man, if one 
would gain information as to where to prospect, where to 
stake claims, where to locate, and how to gain untold mill- 
ions. Dreams developed into plans, arrangements were 

made for the trip to the promised land, and J L 's 

hand held the key which was to unlock the golden chests. 

Suddenly appeared a notice in the New York Herald: ' ' J 

Iv will sail from San Francisco June for the Klon- 
dike." " That is to be my steamer," cried I ; but to my 
great disappointment, on reaching California, it was only to 

learn that L, had already sailed, and was " going in " 

over the Pass. So I read with avidity all articles in regard 
to the promised land, in order to gather the information 
which I had hoped to obtain from him. 



5 2 Two Women in the Klondike 

And now (after this prelude), to go back to our first eve- 
ning on the barge, as I sat talking to one of the passengers, 
a tall, fine-looking man came on board, and stopped a mo- 
ment to greet my companion, who, after he had passed, said 

to me, " That 's J L ; did you ever hear of him ? " — 

1 ' Hear of him ? More than of any other man of this part of 
the world." — " Do you want to meet him? I '11 go and get 
him," but, after a few moments, he returned, saying, "I'm 
very sorry, but he 's so surrounded I could n't get near him. 
I '11 introduce him, however, before night." After dinner 
his promise was fulfilled, and a most interesting chat we had. 
The information which he gave us was most valuable, and 
when we asked what chance there was of getting a house in 
Dawson, he immediately said, " I '11 give you one rent-free. " 
" For how long ? " said I. " For a year," he replied. " Is 

there a stove in it ? " inquired practical K . " You can 

buy all the stoves you want in Dawson," said L • " It 

must be a curious sensation to go alone to a place, and watch 
its development, as you have done," I remarked. " Oh, yes ; 
but if I had it to do over again, I 'd do differently," said 

L . " I 'd have a cinch on everything, and that 's what 

I did n't do in the first place. But do let me give you ladies 
a bit of advice. Don't go to Dawson ; people are dying 
there like sheep, and they will probably have an epidemic 
this summer," and off he went to watch the trial trip of his 
new steam-launch. 

It seems strange to have no light and no heat on board, 
and not to feel the need of either in this Arctic Circle, but 
we had no difficulty in undressing by the dying rays of the 
sun. 

Wednesday, July 6th. 

A long, enjoyable tramp on shore, with an Englishman. 
We finally went to the Alaska Company's stores, which 
were crowded. The men kindly offered to make way for 
me, on account of my sex, but, their time being as valuable 
as mine, I followed the example of other women, and sat 
on the counter until my turn came. How we laughed at 
each new experience ! My purchases consisted of a pair of 



Transferred at Last 



53 



muck-a-lucks, four dollars, which they say are worth three 
times that in Dawson ; a small tin of ginger wafers, fifty 
cents ; and a bottle of lime juice, seventy-five cents. Not 
such extravagant prices as we had been led to expect. 

A nasty, rainy afternoon. Nothing to do but to sit on 
deck, talk with returned miners, and listen to the fascinating 

stories of Klondike life. Some of them so alarmed B 

about the many dangers in store for the dogs, that she sud- 
denly decided to send Queen back to San Francisco on the 
steamer St. Paul in charge of the porter who had cared for 
her when outward bound. Such tales never affect me, as I 
have learned from long experience that they are generally 
greatly exaggerated, so Ivan remained. After dinner, an- 
other most agreeable visit from L, — ■ — , who brought his 
agent with him, instructing him that should our stores not 
reach Dawson in time we were to be allowed to help our- 
selves to his. 







CHAPTER VIII 

WE HEAR THE SIGNAL 

Thursday, July 7th. 

AFTER this morning's shopping experience, will retract 
all written yesterday about prices. Ordinary single 
blanket for Ivan, the cheapest made, seven dollars ; a very 
common skirt-braid, two small pieces, twenty-five cents ; 
writing-pads, twenty-five cents each ; ink, twenty-five cents 
for a five-cent (retail) bottle, and the slimsiest kind of calico, 
twenty-five cents a yard — all to be carried home by the pur- 
chaser. A short walk with Mr. S , another interesting 

Englishman, and after stopping to inspect the cannon we re- 
turned to the Leak, to find that the early birds were being 
served with luncheon, and that it remained for us to stand 
in line until the others had finished and departed, a method 
certainly not calculated to aid their digestion. 

At two o'clock came the long-waited-for signal — three 
whistles — and we rush to the barge, watching the last pas- 
sengers come on board. During the half-hour of suspense 
before starting, tales were told of a terrible gale outside, and 
of barges that had gone to pieces between here and the 
entrance to the river, until women were not the only ones 
who were in a wild state of alarm. At three we were off, 
and the last stage of the journey had begun. Side by side 
went the Leah and the barge, then the Leah went ahead, and 
we were taken in tow, quite a distance behind. As we fell 
back our former messmates shouted : ' ' So sorry to leave you. ' ' 

" We '11 meet in Dawson, perhaps." J , who celebrates 

everything, rushed for his flag, and headed a procession on 
top of the barge. No lack of enthusiasm could he charge 

54 



We Hear the Signal 55 

against the men this time. He was followed up the ladder 
by doctors, dentists, barkeepers, millionaires, an ex-senator, 
hotel-keepers, and two Englishmen. On they marched, 
backwards and forwards, in serpentine fashion, all singing 
or shouting anything and everything, whistles screeching 
from steamers and tugboats, hats and handkerchiefs wav- 
ing, parting words, pathetic and amusing, called out and 
almost drowned in the distance. A photographer was on 
the wharf, taking pictures of the party. 

Retiring to my cabin to indulge in the usual pastime of 
writing, a face at the window startled me. One of the 
passengers, walking on the extremely narrow ledge which 
surrounded the barge, was on a tour of investigation, cling- 
ing to each window as he passed ; said windows having no 
shutters, curtains, or mosquito nettings, the investigator was 
regretting his temerity, as an attack was being made upon 
him by my next-door neighbour with an umbrella, which he 
captured and passed into my room, begging me to take charge 

of it as confiscated property. At that moment E opened 

the door and exclaimed, " Romeo and Juliet! " then asked me 
to go with her to see the first egg in the pigeon-coop, which 
was attracting general attention. " May n't I come through 
the window ? " begged Romeo. " This ledge is so narrow, 
and the people on this row are so unfriendly that I 'm in 
danger of being thrown overboard." " Yes, if you '11 
solemnly promise that it shall be your last offence," said 

E . ' ' I never should have tried it at all had I realised the 

enormity of my sin," pleaded the culprit, as he finally ex- 
tricated himself and accompanied us to the bow of the barge. 
" Did you see the new passenger? Does n't she look like 

Mrs. W ?" said Y . "Which Mrs. W ?" 

queried E— — . ' ' Why, the wife of Mr. W , to whom 

3'ou have just bidden farewell at St. Michaels." "Oh! he 
has no wife ! he'sa widower," said E . " You remem- 
ber his sad story" (nodding at me). The crowd smiled. 
Some even dared to laugh, while one, bolder than the 
others, haw-hawed, " A widower ! well, that 's pretty good ! 
How did he get the news ? I had a few words with his wife 



56 Two Women in the Klondike 

myself when she came down to see him off, so she was all 
right at San Francisco!" "Oh, that was n't his wife," 

said K ; "you are mistaken. He told me all about her. 

She is the sister of his most intimate friend, and came to 
explain why her brother could not get away." " Well, if 
that's not a good joke ! And you believed him?" said 

Y . ' ' Certainly — why should I suppose him to be telling 

me so useless a lie ? " 

W , whom we had met on the St. Paul, was a fine- 
looking man, but without much education, and K , 

thinking it a pity that he should speak so ungrammatically, 
had taken him in hand, and he had proved a willing pupil. 
Later on he confided to her a most pathetic story of the 
death of his beautiful wife, and of his intense grief which 
had caused him to eschew society for many years. Imagine, 

then, with what astonishment K learned that her pupil 

had not only been deceiving her, but that nearly half of the 
passengers of the St. Paul were either acquainted with or 

had seen Mrs. W very often during the eight years 

which (according to her husband's story) she had passed 
underground. K was justly indignant. 

Now the tables are being prepared for the first meal on 

the barge ; small cliques are being formed. B tells me 

that we have had three invitations — first, to join Mr. O 's 

party ; second, the party of Mr. P ; lastly, to be seated 

with four others near the head of the table, but, in order not 
to sow the seeds of discord, she decided that it would be bet- 
ter to follow the plan of the majority, who insisted upon 

having chairs in front of their cabin doors. Mr. P was 

asserting that he was tired of the crowd with whom he had 
been associated on the St. Paul ; while members of that 
crowd confided to us that they had made up their clique 

carefully in order to exclude Mr. P . Mr. O said 

we had better come to his table as he was going to boss 
things. Finally, as it was impracticable to keep to our de- 
cision, we accepted an invitation given by our former host 
of St. Michaels and the two Englishmen, and so congenial 
was the society, so delightful the stories with which they 



We Hear the Signal 57 

entertained us, that we did not mind the ' ' tinned ' ' food set 
before us three times daily, and concluded that " roughing 
it " had not yet begun. 

As we were enjoying our first meal, a German woman came 
late to dinner. The steward motioned her to a vacant seat, 
but she stood immovable. " Here is your place, Madam," 
he called. " No, that is not mein place," she stoutly main- 
tained ; " mein place is before mein door, und before mein 
door will I sit, wenn this frau will get from itaus." " This 
frau " continued to dine quite undisturbed by the discussion. 
The one from Deutschland remained until mince-pie was 
brought, then weakened, and finally accepted the chair which 
she had so scornfully declined. When we found that our 
napkins were to do service a second time each one went 
in search of a bit of ribbon, seeking a favourite colour ; 
besides that, the men wrote the number of our chairs in big 
letters on the damask. 

After dinner a breeze sprang up, and great excitement 
was caused by the breaking of the barge rudder. Many 
of the passengers declared that it was defective when 
we started and, on investigation, it was discovered that 
the tools required for making repairs had been left on the 
dock. Another story was circulated that the barge was 
leaking ; one of the men declared that he had been down 
below, that the pumps were being used and the cargo ruined. 
I finally appealed to the purser, telling him that our outfit 
was of some value, after which he assured me that he had 
made a thorough investigation and that the story of a leak 
was absolutely false. We were next informed that the rud- 
der of the steamer was showing signs of weakness, and as we 
had sixty miles through Bering Sea to make before reaching 
" the bar," the passengers were very much frightened, and 
declared their intention of remaining dressed and ready for 
emergencies should any arise. The barge was then placed 
in front of the steamer and pushed instead of towed. The 
floor of the barge vibrated with a serpentine motion as though 
each wave would prove fatal, and, recalling the accidents that 
had taken place so recently, many of the passengers crossed 



58 Two Women in the Klondike 

to the steamer and remained on deck until 3 a.m. ; the 
men, seemingly, were more alarmed than the women, as we 
were told that some of them slept in life-preservers. Plans 
were made as to our actions in case of disaster. One of the 
Englishmen said that if I would promise to keep cool and 
only rest my hands on his shoulder he could easily save me 
by swimming to shore. Heated discussions ensued among 
the passengers at things having been so rushed — the same 
passengers who had protested vigorously against the long 
delay. At 3 a.m. we came to anchor and, on retiring to 
our cabins the light of the coming day was so strong that we 
were obliged to hang our wraps before the window. 

Friday. 

Still waiting outside the bar ! No one could tell why, so 
I inquired of the captain, who replied, " Barge rudder 
broken, shy on the steamer rudder, and the tools to repair 
them were left on the dock." There is a carpenter here, but 
he is wanted everywhere at once, consequently the skylight 
is not yet finished, and the opening is covered with canvas, 
excluding light, but admitting rain, to the great discomfort 
of the passengers, some of whom are now shifting their 
quarters to the Leah. This leaves a few vacant rooms, and 

E at once informed the purser and the steward of Mr. 

S 's promise. The former said, " Have you got it in 

writing? " the latter," His words don't go here," and we were 
obliged to accept the inevitable, as we saw that others were 
taking advantage of what had been given to us conditionally. 
Moral, be sure and have everything in writing before you 
start ! Indians came with salmon and plover for sale. They 
wanted whiskey in exchange, but that, being too rare and 
precious, could not be given, — not from conscientious scru- 
ples, however, — so they took tea instead. After dinner, some 
of the passengers amused themselves by telling stories. They 
declared that the following " took the cake " : 

" Last year, when I went ' out ' from Dawson, thought I 'd 
go and see what kind of a feller that little sister o' mine had 
married. She deserved the best that 's goin', coz she was as 



We Hear the Signal 59 

pretty as a peach when I left home, and just as sweet. I never 
' ud ' a' knowed I had a brother-in-law had n' t Jim Bullock cum 
1 in 'just as I was goin' back to the mines, and from something 
he let drop it struck me that Nance had married a second 
1 Fightin' Bill,' an' as I 'd been strikin' it pretty rich I de- 
termined to go ' out ' all of a suddint-like, and jess tie up 
that property o' mine so as nobody but Nance could git a- 
hold of it, in case I should happen to pass in my chips. 
Well, I went back to the old home and found it rented to 
new people, an' they told me that Nance's husband had 
taken her way out West somewhere. ' That looks bad,' sez I 
to myself. ' Why could n't he 'a' let her stayed 'mongst them 
as ez knowed an' loved her all her life? By jingo! I 'm 
goin' to git on his trail if it takes me the rest o' my natural 
life. So I followed day an' night, first behind the engine, 
then in a waggon, then on horseback, until I got way out 
into the Indian country. And one night I saw bright lights 
ahead and knowed there was a merrymakin' goin' on. 

" l I ain't a-goin' to be out of everything,' sez I, so jess 
made straight for them lights, got a small boy to shelter my 
horse and gimme somethin' to eat, an' then I peeked into 
the parlour. Of all the games you ever heern tell on, this 
one was the funniest. There was a great big galoot sitting 
in a easy chair in the middle of the room, and sayin' like a 
sick kitten, ■ I 'm a-pinin'.' ' Who you pinin' for?' said 
another fool. ' Mary Muggins,' sez he ; so when I seen a 
girl a-blushin' an' a-tryin' for to hide her face I made sure she 
was Mary Muggins, and the durned fool led her right up to 
the other fool in the easy chair and would you believe it, she 
had to kiss him square on the mouth before he could stop a- 
pinin' an' walk back among the others. Well, they kept up 
this tomfoolery for about an hour, when a great big, splendid- 
looking fellow commenced a-scowlin' at 'em an' a-frownin' at 
'em, as though he intended to kick 'em all out. I peeked 
round a little farther to see what all the fellers were a-lookin' 
at all the evenin', and bless my soul if there did n't sit Nance, 
prettier than ever ! I was going to spring for her but ' re- 
stricted ' myself to find out what the man by her was a- 



60 Two Women in the Klondike 

scowlin' for, an' then decided that he must be ' Fightin' Bill,' 
who was ready to kill any man who dared to ' pine ' for Nance. 
I was wrong this time, my boys, for just as I sez, ' There 's 
goin' to be a thunder-storm or I ain't no judge o' human 
natur,' ' Fightin' Bill ' rose in his wrath an' sez, sez he, ' My 
wife 's the purtiest woman here, an' if no one pines for her, 
there 's goin' to be trouble, and that soon.' In two seconds 
every feller in the room was a-pinin' for Nance until I just 
rushed over and sez, ' Nance, Nance ' — an' then knew no 
more. When I kum to, Nance she was a-cryin' over me, 
an' ' Fightin' Bill ' held out his hand and said, 'I'm durned 
sorry, partner, but how could I tell you was Nance's 
brother ? ' Well, that ' Fightin' Bill ' kin have all my pile 
when I 'm gone, an' more, too. He an' Nance gave me the 
time o' my life, an' they named the baby arter me, an' I 'm 
goin' back to Dawson to sell out and then back to Nance to 
eddicate that boy, an' if he don't turn out a high-flyer it 
won't be his uncle's fault." 

At eleven we retired, quite exhausted after the long watch 
of the previous night. To bed, but not to sleep, as games 
commenced ; tag was played around the table in front of our 
doors, shrieks of laughter arose from the young women who 
were caught, and songs, shouts, and whistling all combined 
to drive away any chance of sleep. 

Saturday, July 9th. 
Hardly had the night's fun (?) ended, and we again settled 
to rest, when the clatter of dishes and the preparations for 
breakfast began. We awakened to find mosquitoes coming 
in through the window in swarms, and the never-ceasing 
rain leaking through the roof. Some articles of clothing 
were thoroughly drenched, and others too damp for use. 
The carpenter was persuaded to tack up a wire netting and 
to plug the knot-holes and other cavities through which the 
rain dropped. Two of the passengers were drying pillows 
at the stove in which they had made a fire of drift-wood and 
broken boxes. One man had a stiff neck, another a cough, 
while several complained of rheumatism. Many were search- 



We Hear the Signal 61 

ing for bits of wood, and making shelves to hold basin and 
toilet articles. Mr. Q kindly presented me with a car- 
penter's bench, which is most useful in lieu of table or 
shelves. We made friends with the cook, a most excel- 
lent one, who told us that he began work at 2.30 a.m., 
finishing at 9 p.m. At table we were allowed one plate 
for fish, meat, etc., a knife, fork, and two teaspoons, and 
that, we were told, was more luxurious than anything that 
had before been known in these regions. We had many a 
laugh at our companions at table, and they at us, as we for- 
got to retain our forks, or were obliged to spread butter with 
a spoon, or use it for pie, the never-failing dessert. 

The captain came one day to explain to me why K had 

not been given another cabin, and offered her the " chain- 
room." K declined with thanks, saying, "a place re- 
served for storage and which no one else will accept ! I prefer 
to remain where I am, and have Mr. S inquire on my re- 
turn why his instructions have not been carried out, when 
men are being allowed rooms quite to themselves." After 
luncheon, we stopped to put off a couple of French mission- 
aries. They entered the compartments fore and aft of the 
tiny canoe, leaving the Indian guide and boatman to take 
the seat in the hole in the centre. Not a complaint did they 
utter as they squeezed into the tight-fitting box and were 
paddled towards the solitary and uninviting shore. Such 
bravery showed a noble spirit of self-sacrifice. As they heard 
the shouts of ' ' Good luck to you, ' ' they waved a last adieu, 
and said, " We shall pray for you." 

Had a most interesting chat with the wife of Arch- 
deacon , who, although a great sufferer from seasickness 

and a martyr to neuralgia, is bravely returning for another 
seven years in the Arctic regions. She and her good hus- 
band first entered the country from the Canadian side in 
small boats over the lakes. This, which seems to the 
majority so primitive a style of travelling, is, to them, by 
contrast, most luxurious. Their hearts are filled with love 
for the work they have attempted, and no discouragements 
are allowed to interfere with the anticipated glorious results. 



62 Two Women in the Klondike 

At ii p.m. we tied up to the bank for wood. Indians 
by the dozens lined the shore, but the light was not suffi- 
ciently strong for snap-shots. A white man came on board 
enveloped in a mosquito-shield (as was everyone else except 
the Indians). He was greatly surprised that we had but 
ninety passengers, instead of the expected two hundred. In 
answer to our question he said, " We call this Andreafsky, 
though Andreafsky is twenty miles beyond. We stopped 
here to build a boat which is to take us to Dawson, and the 
name of our camp is Black Foot." That explained the red 
flag with a black foot in the centre, which was flying under 
the American. One of the passengers asked for my decanter 
that he might fill it with pure water from the spring. It 

was deliciously cool. A brought me back a big bunch 

of ferns, bluebells, pink flowers resembling clover, and cotton- 
buds. Poor Ivan, whom he had taken for a run, returned 
almost frantic from the sting of mosquitoes and sand-flies, 
which had taken possession of his entire body. 

Sunday, July ioth. 
Have searched the Alaska Commercial Company's pam- 
phlet to glean some information about our stopping-place 
last night. It must have been Kollik, of which it tells 
us that "it is near the discharging point of the Aphoon 
mouth," and adds : " Here there is a rude Russian church, 
the store of an ancient Russian trader who dominates the 
place, and the drift-wood dwellings of a small settlement. 
The surroundings are characteristic of the entire delta 
— flat, rich soil which might support a nation, if in a 
kindlier clime, but which, frozen to within a short distance 
of the surface, produces nothing but thick grasses, and 
low scrub-willows, or other Arctic trees. Water-fowl flit 
in every direction, or chatter continually on the flats. 
Here, too, the traveller has the first experience of taking 
on wood for fuel. The Eskimo cut up and split the drift- 
logs, and pile them on the bank. Then, when the steamer 
hauls up at the landing, the natives, who compose a greater 
portion of the crew (not so on our ship) bring on the wood 



We Hear the Signal 



63 



as rapidly as their naturally sluggish natures can be spurred 
to work. ' ' 

Upon leaving the cabin this morning, late, I found that 
we were again " taking on wood," not that we needed it, but 
simply to prevent one of our rivals from obtaining it, and 
thereby overtaking us. The men were on shore with their 
rifles. The ' ' cherub ' ' brought back a very pretty tame fox 




TAKING ON WOOD ON THE YUKON. 

in a box. The women purchased the skins of muskrats and 
swans. Mr. A was the last one to return, with a beauti- 
ful bunch of wild roses. He was held up several times and 
robbed of one or two sprays, but finally handed the re- 
mainder to me, saying in his modest way, " Mind you don't 
cut your hands, as they 're full of thorns." The Doctor, 
who is an enthusiastic amateur photographer, was delighted 
at having been able to get a good light on the tomb of a 
princess, saying that the box containing her remains was 



64 Two Women in the Klondike 

kept on top of the ground, while on a board were nailed the 
paddle of her canoe, her bracelets, hunting-knife, and many 
trinkets of value. As we started off the Doctor escorted me 
to the upper deck, from which we had a magnificent view 
of this wonderful river. It was laughable to see poor Ivan 
stumbling up and tumbling down the steepest ladders in 
order to be always at my side. After luncheon we tied up 
again to the bank ; as the decks were completely covered 
with wood, and there was no wood-pile visible, everyone was 
on the qui vive to know the cause of detention. Some said 
the boilers were being cleaned ; others, that the wheel was 
broken. No one seemed to know the truth, but here we 
have been for hours, tightly enveloped in nets, but still fight- 
ing mosquitoes. One of the passengers found the tracks of 
a bear on shore. Then there was a rush for shotguns and 
the men were soon working their way through the thick 
underbrush. They were obliged to give it up, however, and 
returned none too soon, with their faces and hands badly 
swollen. Those who had no rifles remained on top of the 
barge making napkin-rings and shelves for their cabins. 

5 p.m. Moving once more, and all are uttering hearty 
thanks, as there are fewer mosquitoes away from the banks. 
The general opinion seems to be that some part of the ma- 
chinery needed repairing, but all queries meet the same re- 
ply, " don't know," while those uttering complaints against 
irregularities are called " kickers" ; consequently many 
things are submitted to without a murmur which should 
never be allowed to exist, and of which the owners would 
probably be very glad to receive information. 

Monday, July nth. 
No respect for Sunday is shown by a large number of pas- 
sengers. Last evening, after dinner, a dance was organised, 

J leading and calling out " the figgers." The orchestra 

consisted of Mr. P with his violin, Colonel B , with 

his fiddle, and one of the waiters with a mandolin. The 

dancing being too tame to suit J , he shouted, " Here, 

give us some ginger ! we must have some ginger ! This 



We Hear the Signal 



65 



dancing ain't got no spice in it." We sat on deck and 
watched the glorious scenery until eleven. Scarcely had 
we retired to our cabins, when the assemblage adjourned to 
the top of the barge, which was very near our heads, and 
commenced a march to the accompaniment of songs and 
shouts. The poor Archdeacon and his wife, who had been 
sitting on deck with us during this desecration of the Sab- 




DRYINQ SALMON ON THE LOWER YUKON. 



bath, were most unhappy, but there was no one to whom to 
complain, so the dear lady, with " a splitting headache," was 
obliged to wait until the crowd disbanded. 

While dressing late this morning, the whistle blew and we 
saw a town in the distance, with a beautiful Russian church 
standing out prominently. We hastily finished our toilet 
and hurried on shore ; but no sooner had Ivan touched land 

than the native dogs came dashing from all directions, and 

5 



66 Two Women in the Klondike 

as they failed to run away at my shout of " Moosh ! " which 
only evoked peals of laughter from the Indians, the poor 
beast, who was quite ready to whip every dog there, had to 
be sent on board without his exercise, as I did not wish the 
winner of twenty-two prizes to be debarred from further 
honours by disfigurement. Salmon was hung out to dry 
before every house, and all along the banks. A small boy 
of not more than three years of age was smoking a pipe. As 
I turned the Kodak in his direction he took the pipe from 
his mouth to refill it from the contents of the bag which he 
held in his hand. I motioned to the father that the pipe 
should be replaced in the child's mouth ; he understood the 
gesture, and an interesting group was taken, as the father 

had a tiny papoose in,his arms. Mr. A kindly escorted 

me to the Russian church, but service was over, and we had 
not the time to photograph the interior. We climbed to the 
graveyard, but the mosquitoes were so ravenous and attacked 
us in such swarms, that we beat a hasty retreat, only stop- 
ping to gather a few flowers. At eleven we returned to the 
ship and as my English friend said we had been visiting 
"the most swagger place on the Yukon," I immediately 
read the following in regard to it from the pamphlet hereto- 
fore quoted : 

" Ikogimut, or the Russian Mission, as it is generally 
called. This mission has been established many years and 
is the principal station of the Greek Church in the northern 
portion of Alaska. The church itself is a picturesque struct- 
ure, and its services most interesting. This is a favourite 
place for picking up curios and small furs. The water in 
the river at this point has been sounded to a depth of four 
hundred and eighty feet, indicating that it flows through an 
ancient crater. Here, too, the birch-bark canoe of the up- 
river Indian begins to be seen in competition with the skin 
kayak of the Eskimo, for Paimut, about five hours' run up 
the stream from the Russian Mission, marks the dividing 
line between the Innuits and Ingaliks. The Eskimo and 
the Indians of the interior were, in former years, frequently 
at war, but it has been many years since any great battles 



We Hear the Signal 67 

were fought. Still, they occasionally shoot on sight, when 
hunting-parties chance to meet on the ranges." 

4 p.m. Met two rowboats coming from Dawson. Their 
occupants shouted : " Turn back," — " Go the other way," 
— "Thousands waiting to get ' out.' " A river steamer 
approached heavily laden. Everyone rushed to her cabin, 
hoping to be able to mail letters already prepared, but only 
friendly greetings were exchanged from a distance. 

Tuesday, July 12th. 

Pandemonium let loose! Last night after a sunset so 
glorious that it surpassed all others, we retired as usual at 
eleven. At 2 a.m. we anchored, or rather tied up to the 
bank at Koserefsky. As we had read in the same pam- 
phlet, this " Holy Cross Mission is maintained by the 
Sisters of Saint Anne and the Jesuit Fathers. Here the 
voyager will be greatly interested in the gardening, which 
shows what may be done in the way of raising the hardier 
vegetables whenever an increasing population shall put 
Alaska to the test of its capacity for supporting life. Tur- 
nips, radishes, lettuce, potatoes, cabbages, and celery are 
grown with more or less success, and continuous experi- 
ments are made with different seeds. The work among the 
Indian children shows their wonderful capacity for receiving 
a certain measure of instruction, although as yet the moral 
results have not been all that the devoted missionaries have 
hoped for." We had been anticipating with great pleasure 
a visit to the church and the wonderful gardens, but, un- 
fortunately, the hour of arrival was not propitious, and we 
again sought repose in sleep. Alas ! that was impossible, 
for, having no officer on the barge at night, the Indians were 
allowed to board her, and roam at will, not only on the nar- 
row ledge outside our windows, but to congregate in groups 
before our doors, or tramp through the hall, chattering like 
magpies. Then came the whistle from an approaching 
steamer, and we were soon aware that the long-expected 
Alice, from Dawson, was being secured to the barge. 

In a few moments many of her two hundred passengers 



68 Two Women in the Klondike 

had landed on our decks, and were loudly calling for those 
whom they hoped to find on board. One or two of the most 
popular men were surrounded, and their conversation would 
have been of great interest at any other time. The same 
advice was reiterated on all sides — " Turn back. Don't go 
to Dawson. People are dying there like rats in a trap." 
Only one man was affected sufficiently to follow this counsel, 
and his companions said that he was dreadfully homesick, 
and only too glad of an excuse. It was nearly 4 A.M. 
when the Alice left and broad daylight, but we settled down 
to sleep, when the howling of the pack of dogs belonging to 
the purser reached our ears ; then came the opening of the 
pantry, preparations for breakfast, and another day had be- 
gun. On deck, the heat of the sun was intense, but I dis- 
covered a shady nook, and was quietly reading an Italian 
romance, when a voice said, " Wa'al, you do want to be ex- 
clusive, but I 'm goin' to stay, coz I kin git rid o' them pesky 
mosquitoes here ; they 're a-bleedin' me to death, an' I kin 
truly say that I fought an' bled my way to Dawson. " 'T was 
the old fiddler. Then came other voices. " Mosquitoes ! 
Well, I should say ! they 've bitten me till I don't need no 
collar-button, for there 's plenty o' bumps in the right place, 

and as for K , why he has buttons all over his face. 

Never dreamed anything living could want ter tech him." 

After luncheon we stopped at another small village, the 
name of which it was impossible to learn, and there remained 

until five, leaving stores on shore. Mr. A escorted Ivan 

and me for a short walk, but the sun and mosquitoes soon 
drove us back ; we watched, with great concern and anxiety 
the purser bargaining for more dogs, and groaned as first 
one and then another was purchased and sent on board, 
where the howling and crying make such an agonising con- 
cert that the passengers would gladly have clubbed together 
and paid the higher price demanded farther up the river, 
rather than suffer night and day. Many of our passengers 
decided that the hot sun was conducive to laundry work. 

Even the dignified and pompous Q found a tub, and no 

laundress could have put more energy into the work, but his 



We Hear the Signal 69 

indignation was great when he found that the Doctor had 
secured a fine picture of him at his novel employment. My 
English neighbour said that someone had offered to teach 
him how to wash his linen, that he had taken great interest 
in the lessons, but never succeeded in learning until the 
work was quite finished. 

The tramping on the roof of the barge has caused great 
annoyance to all those who were anxious to sleep before 
midnight, but we had made no complaint, and were not 
aware that the ladder had been taken away, until we were 
asked to sign a petition that it should be replaced, upon 
condition that all tramping overhead should cease at 10 p.m. 
Shortly after, the roof was again covered with promenaders. 

Iyate this evening the Leah sounded a whistle which told 
us we were to stop ; so hasty preparations were made for a 
walk on shore, but no plank was put out, only a man got 
off to inquire if the husband of Mrs. , one of our pas- 
sengers, was there. The story quickly went the rounds 
that, while she was on her way to meet him in Dawson, he, 
learning of her intention, had " skipped," and was " hurry- 
ing out. ' ' She had traced him to this little settlement, where 
he had evaded her by three hours. As we wended our way 
to our cabins, we found them with great difficulty, the night 
being unusually dark. Lamps have been hung in the mess- 
hall, but the stewards say that the oil was forgotten, as well 
as soap and many other articles usually supplied ; we are 
thankful, however, at being safely carried thus far on our 
trip, but there are plenty of " kickers" who complain at 
getting so little for three hundred dollars. 




"ife f%\l$ \I^2^-^IB 




fe^^J^t^ 




n^r/tiC 


^«^^^^" 



CHAPTER IX 

UP THK YUKON 

Wednesday, July 13th. 

DURING breakfast we stopped at another small settle- 
ment for wood, and again at lunch-time, when we had 
an opportunity to take a very short walk and to get a few 
photographs. The squaws all covered their heads at sight of 
a camera. We thought them bashful, but a young Indian girl 
explained : ' ' They want you to pay them for being allowed 
to take their pictures. ' ' At four, another stop, long enough 
for some of the passengers to have a swim in the Yukon, and 
for the camera fiends to obtain some good views; a delightful 

chat and tramp on shore with a new passenger, Mr. , 

who gave me most interesting information about Dawson. 
While reading after dinner, who should approach but 

Colonel B , saying, " Do yer mind if I take one o' your 

nice easy cheers ? It looks so comfertable an' there ain't no 
one a-usin' it. My wife she 's got a nice rockin' -cheer in her 
cabin, made special for her; yer see she 's so fat an' so heavy 
she can't sit in no ordinary cheer. She weighs nigh onto 
three hundred pounds. You 'd oughter seen her when we 
was married, tho', — the slimmest thing yer ever sot eyes on. " 

Thursday, July 14th. 
At two o'clock this morning, we tied up at Nulato, where 
we remained cleaning boilers, so we were told, until eleven. 
Before going on shore we read the following from the pam- 
phlet which has so often been referred to : "At Nulato, to 
which the Koyukuk River pays tribute, will be found another 
ancient Russian post, and a well-established Catholic Mis- 

70 



Up the Yukon 7 1 

sion. In 1838, one Malakhof ascended the Yukon to Nu- 
lato, and there built a small blockhouse. He was forced to 
return to St. Michaels for supplies, however, and while he 
was gone, the Indians burned his post. In 1842, Lieutenant 
Zagoskin built a new fort at Nulato, and established relations 
with the Indians. Zagoskin was aided in his work by Derz- 
havin, one of the intrepid pathfinders who had set out with 
Olazanof, in 1833, to penetrate the frozen wilds. He it was 
who was in command in 185 1, when the since famous mas- 
sacre by the Koyukan Indians occurred — famous because in 
it Lieutenant Barnard of the English Navy, who was there 
with a party searching for the lost Sir John Franklin, was 
butchered with the rest. The Koyukuk River, whence these 
fierce Indians came, has produced some gold, and the tales 
of the richness of its bars have spread far and wide among 
the Alaskan miners. The river is navigable for a long dis- 
tance, but the fact that the diggings are so far from its mouth 
has prevented their development on account of the difficulty 
in getting supplies to them. This will soon be obviated, and 
the Koyukuk will offer comparatively virgin ground for the 
prospector. The Alaska Commercial Company maintains a 
post at Nulato, and will be prepared to provide the necessary 
service on the Koyukuk." 

We started for a tramp with Ivan, but the native dogs, which 
dared not face him, set upon him in a pack when his back 
was turned, causing him to be ignominiously sent on board. 
A large rowboat from the Koyukuk, containing two men 
and a woman wearing a sunbonnet, interested us greatly, 
and still more, when the latter told us that just around the 

bend, in a boat with a tent, was a Mr. N , partner of one 

of the men whom we have " grub-staked " and whose stories 
of his life on the Koyukuk were so thrilling that we were 
strongly tempted towards that river rather than to make the 
trip to Dawson. His nuggets were so large and so valuable, 
his plans so wonderful, that had it not been for fear of the 
Indians who we were told were very savage, we should 
have joined our man and his family on the small yacht which 
was being prepared in San Francisco. We had a short inter- 



72 



Two Women in the Klondike 



view with the partner, met a great number of men who had 
1 ' gone in ' ' with our man the previous year, and heard his 
story and learned of his daily life and what he had accom- 
plished up to the last moment of his departure for home to 
sell his mines. 

After dinner, we were comfortably ensconced in our easy 
chairs in the bow of the barge, admiring the scenery, which 




SCOW ON THE YUKON. 

was still wonderfully beautiful, the air balmy and soft as 
that of springtime at I,enox, when someone wished aloud 

for an ice. E said, ' ' Your wish can easily be granted, 

if you can get our freezer from down below." Up jumped 

J and two other men, and in a few moments the freezer 

was on deck, taken to the steward, who supplied the sugar, 
cream (tinned, of course), and extract, and half an hour later 
we indulged in the first ice-cream, according to all accounts, 
that had ever been served on the Yukon. 



Up the Yukon 73 

Many boats have passed us to-day, containing from two 
to eight miners returning home. Everyone shouts the same 
question, " How far ahead is the other steamer ? " (meaning 
the one belonging to the Columbia Navigation Company, 
which started two days before us.) Latest information is, 
that we are separated only by four hours, consequently we 
are wild to overtake her, and most impatient at any deten- 
tion. Just before retiring, J came to me and said, " I '11 

give you ten dollars for your freezer. " ' ' It cost fifteen be- 
fore paying fifteen cents a pound freight," I replied. After 

some reflection he offered E twenty dollars for her half, 

but she told him that he could not have it at any price. 

Friday, July 15th. 

E came in before I was dressed this morning, in a 

great state of indignation. " They 've taken Ivan away," 
she cried. " He was lying quietly on the deck at my side, 
when the steward approached and without saying so much 
as ' by your leave, ' caught him by the collar, and dragged 
him — not led him, but dragged him — to the steamer, and 
chained him with the band of native dogs that make night 
and day hideous with their howls. 4 By whose orders ? ' 

said I," E continued. " ' If you want to know you can 

ask the purser,' he replied impertinently. ' I don't wish to 
ask the purser, but simply want a civil answer to a civil 
question.' ' Ask the captain, then,' said he ; ' the dog 's a 

d d nuisance.' I then told him that his language and 

behaviour were so disrespectful that he should be reported 
to Mr. S , whereupon he sneered, ' S , he 's got no- 
thing whatever to say of this part of the trip. I 'm in charge 
o' this barge, an' I '11 do as I please.' One of the passengers 
whispered to me, ' Bet you did n't give the steward five or 
ten dollars before you started, else you 'd never 'a' had this 
trouble.' I told him we always treated those who served us 
most generously, but not those who had earned nothing. 

Then X said, ' This steward 's not onto his job ' ; while 

B replied, ' He wants to get rich too fast, that 's what 's 

the matter with him.' " There was, however, no redress, 



74 Two Women in the Klondike 

and we were glad to have our attention diverted by the 
boat's stopping at Novikakat. The pamphlet was brought 
into requisition, and I read the following : " Here, there 
is an old-time Russian trader named Korkorin, now en- 
gaged with the Alaska Commercial Company. He has 
reminiscences of the day when the yearly trip was made to 
St. Michaels to meet the lone vessel of the Russian American 
Company, of the feasts of that holiday time, and of the 
struggle against famine during many winters. There has 
been some prospecting in the streams about Novikakat, but 
the results are as yet indefinite." 

On shore we went, but failed to find Korkorin at his post. 
B stopped at an Indian tent, where she had just con- 
cluded the purchase of a lot of marten skins at four dollars 
each, when one of our passengers entered, and, being a half- 
breed, engaged in a fluent conversation with the proprietor 
in the native tongue, which K , consequently, was un- 
able to understand, so was filled with astonishment when 
informed that the skins were not for sale. Shortly after- 
wards a relative of the Indian maiden came on board, with 

the skins of which E had been deprived. My time on 

shore was spent in gathering wild pink roses, with which 
to decorate the dinner-table, and quantities of a flower the 
colour of heather, but with very long stems. I have omitted 
to say that at the preceding stopping-place we found 
groundsel growing wild, and many were the offerings to the 
only canary on board, who appreciated it immensely. We 
sat in our easy chairs in the bow of the boat enjoying the 
marvellous scenery, and the freedom from gnats and mos- 
quitoes which here are replaced by enormous horse-flies. 
Tales were being related of the different passengers who 
were anxious to be grub-staked, and Mr. R— — said, " W^o- 
men are certainly incomprehensible. Let a man go to them 
as a gentleman, and offer them fine claims ! Do you think 
they will listen to him ? No ! they suspect a swindle every 
time ; but he has only to pose as a rough miner to be at once 
believed, and to fill their souls with confidence." 

Towards evening, the Margaret, belonging to the Alaska 



Up the Yukon 



75 



Commercial Company, was seen coming toward us, and ex- 
citement was rife as she tied up alongside. The usual rush 
was made for letters to send home. Instead of asking us 
for war news, her passengers told us that papers of the 29th 
had already reached Dawson from " over the Pass," bring- 
ing tidings that although we had captured Havana, Hobson 
and his brave men had been shot, and two of our ships lost. 




RAFT ON THE YUKON. 



They also warned us to turn back, as had all those in the 
small boats passed during the day ; but such advice only 
creates laughter, as the constant repetition seems ridiculous 
to those who have more than half finished so long a journey. 
We lost but one of our passengers. The Indian maiden who 

had interrupted K 's purchase of fars, being on her way 

to Dawson to meet her sister, found that she was on the 
Margaret, " going out," so her gripsack was quickly packed, 
and she departed. The Margaret was crowded to that de- 



76 Two Women in the Klondike 

gree that men were sleeping on tables, under tables, and 
even on the cords of wood on deck, and they informed us 
that, as there are still thousands waiting to " go out," there 
was little chance for newcomers to secure transportation 
down the Yukon. Before reaching the Margaret we had a 
pilot who had landed us on sand-bars twice during the day, 
so we speedily exchanged him for the one who had brought 
this craft safely down the river. 

Saturday, July 16th. 

If the scenery yesterday was grand, what can be said of 
that through which we have been passing to-day ? Mount- 
ains, and relays of mountains, narrow gorges, rapids, all that 
is most wild and picturesque ! We had been too rapt in ad- 
miration even to read, but, as there must be ever a slight 
blot on all that is beautiful, so this scene was partially 
marred by the gradual approach of a heavy fog, as we 
thought it, until the air became laden with smoke, and, as 
night came on, we saw that the mountains on all sides were 
on fire. Truly a gorgeous sight, which would have been 
still more brilliant had it not been for the ball of fire that 
hung in the west, making all else insignificant by compar- 
ison. All day we had steamed without stopping. At last in 
the distance we beheld great stacks of wood piled high on the 
shore, so all made preparations for a short tramp, until the 
captain shouted, " How much for the wood ? " " Fifteen 
dollars a cord, ' ' was the reply. ' * Keep it, ' ' — and on we went. 
Just beyond, another lot was plainly visible, but for that 
seventeen dollars a cord was asked ; at the third place, 
twenty, which caused the passengers to discuss the likeli- 
hood of being called on to fell trees, in order that the Alaska 
Commercial Company should not be obliged to pay such ex- 
orbitant prices. 

At last, Fort Adams was in sight, and as we had read of 
the " Episcopal church and Mission," where the children 
of the school were " particularly proficient," and that there 
was also " a trading post and something in the way of 
gardening," we were looking forward to an interesting half- 
hour, only to be disappointed, as no one was allowed to land. 



Up the Yukon 77 

We also passed in the night, without seeing, " Tanana or 
Nuklukyets — an important trading post, for here there comes 
into the Yukon, from one side, the trade of the Tozikakat 
River, and from the other, that of the great Tanana. The 
Tanana drains the country lying between the Copper River 
and the Yukon, as far south as the White River. It is ex- 
pected that the country about the head waters will prove 
one of the richest in all the land, when once it has been 
prospected. Little is known, however, of the river, and the 
Indians who guard its treasures are inclined to be hostile. 
However, at Tanana, there is an interesting store and an 
enormous turnip patch, which latter indicates that could all 
men live after the famous recommendation of Colonel Sellers 
on ' turnips and water, ' there need be no starvation in the 
land. The store is operated for the Alaska Commercial 

Company by A M , once a circus man, but who has 

been in Alaska for thirty years. Here, the Indians, from as 
far as the sources of the Tanana, come to exchange their fish 
and furs for powder, lead, and some of the edible comforts of 
civilisation." 

After dinner there was a concert in the mess-hall of the 
barge — music-box, graphophone, violins, etc., — but although 
we heard at intervals the clapping of many hands, the grand- 
eur of the scenery kept us spellbound to the deck. " I 'd 
just like to catch him at it," growled a voice near us. " Me 
too ! I would n't give him time to say his prayers ! Why, 
that 's the lowest kind o' stealing, to take our champagne 
when it 's all we 've got and no more to be had for love or 
money. How do you s'pose he managed to smuggle them 
out o' the cabin ? " — " Oh, did it when everybody else was 
on shore." — " Yes, but where has he hid the stuff? I move 
we have a general search made." — " How many bottles did 
he take ? " — " Why, eight ; we had four the other night be- 
tween us, out o' the dozen. Pity we had n't drunk 'em all; 

and now here 's R had six pairs o' muck-a-lucks stolen 

right out of his bag, and no trace of them or of the thief. If 
you leave a paper or magazine on the table you may bet 
your life you '11 never see it again, but what 's the use o' 



78 Two Women in the Klondike 

complainin' ? nobody pays the least attention to it." This 

recalled to me that K 's fountain-pen had been taken 

from her cabin, and that the thief must have had abundance 
of time, as he had stopped to fill it ; while my bag, which 
was in the mess-hall with three locked straps on it, had been 
cut down the side and the articles extracted therefrom. I 
had sent the purser a note calling his attention to the fact, 
but not a word did he condescend to give in reply, although 
my cabin-boy had orders to wait for an answer. 

We remained on deck until eleven, hoping to catch a 
glimpse of Rampart City, but found that we were not to 
make that settlement until 2 a.m. We might just as well 
have remained up, for when we did get there sleep was im- 
possible. One of the passengers had brought out some 
whiskey, and was treating the crowd in the hall before our 
door. Such a babel of voices ! And we were told the fol- 
lowing day that the supply of whiskey in Rampart having 
given out, her citizens were offering our passengers nine 
dollars a bottle. We breathed a sigh of relief as the whistle 
blew, the men rushed for shore, and we slowly steamed 
away ; then came the howling and yelping of the dogs, 
which lasted until drowned by the clattering of dishes and 
preparations for breakfast. 

Sunday, July 17th. 

Women in the dining-room sewing ; men on deck with 
rifles, waiting for something at which to shoot ! At ten, we 
stopped at a bank where there was a coal sign. The usual 
question was asked, and as this fuel cost only ten dollars a 
ton we took on board a goodly quantity of stuff which looked 
like black dust. We were told that this condition was due 
to the coal's having been frozen, so that it could not be ex- 
tracted in large bits. Poor Ivan was let loose from the ter- 
rible heat of the engine-room and the howling of the other 
dogs, which is so racking to the nerves that we now fear his 
good habits may be spoiled and his training prove non- 
effective by association with these " Siwash " mongrels. 
To think that sixty dollars was the price paid for such 
quarters and companionship just from St. Michaels to Daw- 



Up the Yukon 79 



son, and we supply the dog's food ! How we longed for 
Sunday peace and quiet after such a night, but it was not 
to be. 

Scarcely were we again on our way when our ears were 
pierced by the rasping noise of a badly played violin, which 
had to be endured until the bell rang for luncheon. Later 
in the day, the sky grew dark, then leaden coloured. A 
storm was brewing. Nervous women, terrified at the 
thought of a thunder-storm amidst the mountains, flocked 
into the dining-room like a herd of sheep — only to be to- 
gether. The scene soon became one of most imposing grand- 
eur, in which I revelled, seated alone in the bow of the 
boat, well protected by cap and mackintosh, as the rain came 
down in torrents. I was roused by hearing in coarse tones, — 
" Wa'al, I 've often heern tell on people what did n't know 
enuff to come in when it rained, but I never seen one afore, 
an' detarmined to sit out in such a downpour. Why, she '11 
have rheumatiz sure as fate." Another approached, say- 
ing, " Mrs. H , if you don't come in from that there rain, 

we '11 have to kerry you in, cheer an' all," and so were my 
thoughts brought down from the sublime and magnificent. 

Shortly after, the Doctor came to ask if I would not like to 

meet and talk with the famous Hank S , saying, " You 

don't want me to bring him out here in the rain, so let us 
all sit inside." Following the Doctor, I soon came face to 
face with the new passenger, one of the noted miners of this 
part of the world, who, having passed eight years in Alaska, 
had left Dawson only eight days previously, consequently, 
his conversation was of intense interest ; but he gave us the 
same advice as we have heretofore received from all others : 
' ' Better turn back, even at this late day, for typhoid fever 
and malaria are raging. Even those on the hill are not free 
from what may soon become an epidemic, and there are not 
steamers enough to transport those waiting to leave. Unless 
this exorbitant Canadian royalty be soon repealed, there will 
be no more mines worked, as even the richest claim-owners 
are unwilling to pay ten per cent, to such extortionists." 
Mr. S then showed us the beautiful big nugget he had 



80 Two Women in the Klondike 

first panned out, a ring made from gold taken from one of his 
claims, and told of the man who had first grub-staked him, 
to whom he was able to send twelve thousand dollars 
in ninety days. But grub-staking is rarely so profitable, 
for many tales do we hear of these men who, after striking 
it rich, forget those who have assisted them in time of need, 
sell their claims, carrying the result where it cannot be 
reached by the rightful owner, who, according to miners' 
laws and agreements, is entitled to one-half. " Have you 
seen Rampart ? " he asked. ' ' No ; what does the pamphlet 
say about it ? " K inquired, and I read the following : 

" Then come the Lower Ramparts, where the water goes 
furiously between great walls rivalling in picturesqueness 
the famed Palisades of the Hudson. During the highest 
freshets, the current is said to attain a speed of eleven knots 
in the rapids. But the ingoing miner will be most interested 
in Rampart City, near the mouth of Big Minook Creek, be- 
cause this new city is the commercial centre of the Minook 
Mining District, where will be found the first definite mining 
as yet encountered on the journey. Here is a bustling town 
grown up around the big new store and warehouse of the 
Alaska Commercial Company. From this, the miners carry 
their supplies in all directions to the claims on Little Mi- 
nook, Hunter, Alder, and the many ether gold-bearing 
creeks in the neighbourhood. They are always certain of 
a plentiful food supply, there being none of the bars to 
navigation below Minook which make the later trips so 
uncertain on the upper river. On account of the numbers 
who have settled at Rampart City, the entire country 
round about will undoubtedly be thoroughly prospected. 
Expeditions across the Divide, into the Koyukuk head 
waters have been planned, and it is quite probable that 
Rampart City will become the point of supply for Koyukuk 
mines." What a pity that we were unable to visit so thriv- 
ing a place, but we '11 do it on our return trip. 

At each point we rounded, we gazed longingly for Fort 
Hamlin, of which we had been reading from the same au- 
thority: "It is the next important post. Here are large 



Up the Yukon 



warehouses of the Alaska Commercial Company. These are 
generally filled with stores, waiting to be forwarded to the 
different mining-camps." Towards ten o'clock a turn in the 
river showed Fort Hamlin directly before us, and a small 
steamer tied to a tree. We prepared for the anticipated 
tramp, but to our keen disappointment there was no wood 
to be had, so on we went, after having " slowed up " long 
-enough to talk with the captain of the Victoria. The ru- 
mour was that she had come to assist in towing our barge 
over the Yukon Flats, but we went on without her. 







CHAPTER X 



DISCOMFORT OF BARGE UFE 



Monday, July 18th. 

LAST night on reaching my cabin, mattress and pillow 
were wet with the rain that had leaked in, but having 
learned the lesson that " kickers " are treated with contempt 
and discourtesy, the only thing to be done was to bear it un- 
complainingly, and roll up in blankets with a life-preserver 
for a pillow. Wakened at 5 a.m. by the Victoria bumping 
against the barge, men running along the ledge before the 
windows, and directions being shouted to make fast along- 
side ; then followed the awful howling of the dogs ; then 
preparations for breakfast, and no chance to sleep for another 
eighteen hours at least. From overhead we heard shouts of 
" Moose" and " Bear." Men called excitedly to others to 
get their rifles, as the animals were swimming across the 
river, but nothing came within reach. After breakfast we 
looked for the Victoria, which was nowhere in sight. One 
of the passengers informed us that her captain had let go 
the bow-line instead of the stern, when the current caught 
her, threw her against our ropes and broke her paddle-wheel, 
so that she had been obliged to lay up for repairs. In tying 
up at the next wood-pile, our barge was detached from the 
Leah, many of whose passengers were visiting us ; a plank 
was thrown across but it was so narrow that they did not. 
dare to cross, and so were prisoners for luncheon. 

At our next stopping-place we were met by two men from 
Halifax, who had spent eight days in Dawson, had had 
enough, and were on their return trip. They managed to 

82 



I I 



J 



84 Two Women in the Klondike 

live by chopping wood for river steamers wherever they hap- 
pened to camp for the night and received from our purser 
fifteen dollars a cord. A general " kick " was inaugurated 
when the steward announced dinner at half-past four this 
afternoon, the men saying that the hour had been constantly 
advanced since leaving St. Michaels, until now, by having 
the last meal so early, they are forced into paying for sup- 
pers and feeing the boys for extra work. Another wrong 
was also righted after a fashion, this evening. During the 
entire trip, men have been complaining from time to time 
that their cargo was being ruined. Notwithstanding this, 
matters were left without investigation, until one of the 
captain's favourites went down to procure some articles from 
her trunk. She returned most unhappy over its condition 
and must have gone at once to him, for scarcely had we 
finished dinner, when he accompanied her to the hatchway, 
had it opened, sent some of his men down and had all trunks 
brought on deck. Up they came, covered with mould, then 
wet mattresses, and small tents mildewed ; the passengers 
on all sides looked on, groaning, " What a shame!" 

' ' D d outrage ! " ' ' Our goods packed where they can 

be ruined and the Company's goods nicely stored in high, 
dry space on the steamer ! ' ' However, we are lucky to 
have our boxes up, even though our stores are still in the 
dampness ; and we are told that our beautiful new tent is 
not fit to be seen. 

Tuesday, July 19th. 

A very quiet day ! Scarcely anything to record except 
stopping at 10 a.m. to take on six cords of wood, where, un- 
fortunately, the banks were so steep and the woods so filled 
with mosquitoes, that few of us were able to land, and were 
thankful to get away from the heat, for there is always a 
pleasant breeze while travelling on the Yukon, no matter 
how intense the rays of the sun. At 4 p.m. another hour at 
a wood-pile, but the drift-wood was so thick along the banks, 
that one walked with difficulty, as it cracked and broke under 
the feet at each step. The protest against early dinner has 
had its effect, and the bell was not rung until after five. 



Discomfort of Barge Life 85 

The nights are deliciously cool. Hardly do we finish 
dinner, before an icy breath passes through the air and 
robes and wraps are in demand. Not a star has been 
visible in the heavens since we left St. Michaels, and to- 
night as we sat in our little corner of the barge peacefully 
discussing that and other astronomical subjects, we were 
startled by an unusual invasion of mosquitoes, which at- 
tacked so ferociously that even our shields afforded little pro- 
tection, and we were driven to our cabins, there to wage war 
until 5 a.m., when the attack suddenly ceased. We fell into 
a delicious sleep, which lasted about fifteen minutes, then 
chairs were dragged from under the tables, and the stewards, 
who were sweeping the dining-room, engaged in loud con- 
versation. Groans were heard on all sides, and when the 
bell rang calling passengers to breakfast they would gladly 
have had quiet and sleep in preference to all the delicacies 
of the season. 

Wednesday, July 20th. 

We are all indignant this morning. The Sovereign passed 
us at six o'clock and here we are three hours later, tied up 
again to the bank, and have been for the last hour and no- 
body knows the reason why, although questions have been 
freely asked. We are chafing under the detention. 

9.30. The Victoria, having repaired damages, has now 
overtaken us and is alongside ready to assist in towing. 
Predictions are rife that she will bring us bad luck. We are 
now in the Yukon Flats, of which our guide-book says : 
" These extend from Fort Hamlin clear to Circle City, a 
distance of about four hundred miles. The river widens 
and the water flows in many channels, between number- 
less islands ; undoubtedly there was once a great lake in 
the basin, larger than any lake of to-day. At the Ram- 
parts there probably was a fall greater than Niagara, be- 
fore the water cut its way through the mountains, and 
drained the lake into the sea. After the waters subsided 
the flats became the home of the mastodon, the fossil remains 
and ivory tusks of this great animal being found here in 
profusion, especially on Mammoth Island, which seems to 



86 Two Women in the Klondike 

have been a burying-place for them. Indian stories come 
drifting along occasionally to the effect that some of these 
monsters are still alive in the comparatively unexplored 
territory around the head waters of Copper River, but the 
yarns are probably as apocryphal as that about Alexander 
Badlam's side-hill bear which had the legs on one side of 
the body ' longer than they really ought to be. ' 

' ' Into the Yukon Flats empty the Porcupine River, Birch 
Creek and other streams, and in its course through them the 
Yukon touches its most northern point, an elbow sticking up 
into the confines of the Arctic Circle. Here, just at the 
point of the elbow is Fort Yukon, and there Russian domin- 
ance gave way in the early days to English sway. Old 
Fort Yukon was established by the Hudson Bay Company, 
its agents coming over from the Mackenzie by way of the 
Porcupine, and establishing their post near the point where 
the northern river entered the Yukon. A few traces of the 
old fort remain a short distance from the newer settlement. 
Here the English Company introduced its ' huskies ' in 
place of the wolf-dog of the Eskimo and carried on an ex- 
tensive fur trade until it was found that the English had no 
right to the country. All supplies came in, and all ship- 
ments went out by the Porcupine, the Mackenzie, and the 
great Canadian lakes. In this way Fort Yukon became one 
of the most remote outposts of the white man. At present, 
there is comparatively little business transacted there, though 
there is an Episcopal mission and school, and quite a 
settlement of Fort Yukon Indians. At Fort Yukon, the 
traveller is well within the land ot the midnight sun, for 
here at midnight a photograph was taken of great game, 
killed by the light of the same unquenching orb. Here, 
too, in dead of winter, the aurora borealis makes its most 
gorgeous displays when * the northern lights come down 
o' nights to dance with the houseless snow.' " 

Thursday, July 21st. 
After having read and copied the foregoing in regard to 
Fort Yukon, we passed without running in, but congratu- 



Discomfort of Barge Life 87 

lated ourselves, as we saw the Sovereign not far ahead, that 
plans were being made to overtake her. To our great dis- 
gust, however, we were soon tied up to another wood-pile 
where we remained until midnight, groaning and suffering 
under attacks of myriads and myriads of ravenous mosquitoes 
and vicious gnats. Some of the passengers assisted in pre- 
parations for arranging two new rudders, without which the 
captain dared go no farther into the Flats. A short walk on 
shore through the driftwood and dead branches resulted in 
a torn skirt and defaced shoes, only compensated for by a 
few new photographs. 

After dinner K and I were joined on deck by a pleasant 

party. " What was all the noise last night ? " said R . 

"Is it possible that anybody on board could have slept 

through it ? " replied D . " Why, the Victoria overtook 

us, and as she has no cage to protect us from the cinders, 
they fell in a shower over the top of the barge and set fire to 
it several times, so that some of the boys had to stay up 
there with buckets of water. Poor Mrs. H lost her beau- 
tiful new hammock-chair, which went up in a blaze, P 

and several other fellows had their coats burned, and I guess 
it is going to do some damage to us now," said he, springing 
up as the wind changed and a shower of cinders covered us. 
The gale became stronger, the sky so black that it seemed as 
though a terrible typhoon was approaching. We sought 
refuge in the dining-hall where many of the passengers 
were playing whist, cribbage, and muggins. The stewards, 
cabin-boys, and cook were seated familiarly at the same 
table, and, notwithstanding the signs of " No smoking," 
which are posted in different parts of the mess-room, cigars, 
cigarettes, and pipes were being freely used, the odour of 
bad tobacco filling this, the only sitting-room, and penetrat- 
ing through the lattice-work into the cabins on either side. 

Friday, July 22nd. 
Awakened this morning by the Victoria 's being changed 
and tied up outside of our cabin window, shutting off light 
and air, and we were obliged to make it still darker by 



SS Two Women in the Klondike 

drawing the curtains, as there were men on her decks, con- 
versing in loud tones. To the usual slamming of chairs and 
dishes, loud whistling was added, until the noise became 
deafening. From eleven till two we were tied up to the 
banks. At noon, to the anger and disgust of all the 
passengers, the John C. Barr, of the North American Trans- 
portation Company, passed us, those on board waving hand- 
kerchiefs and hats, hurrahing, hurling shouts of derision, 
calling that they would wait for us in Dawson, etc. Then, 
the " kicking " from our passengers began, and these ex- 
pressions were heard: " What did they tell us in San Fran- 
cisco ? That we should be the first ones to arrive ! that no- 
other company would be able to keep such a promise. Oh, 
no ! and here we are, sent on a steamer towing a heavy 
barge, crawling at a snail's pace, so as to carry in the Com- 
pany's freight. Last night we was within thirty-five miles 
of Circle City and here we are, nearly eighteen hours after, 
tied up at a wood-pile, with still ten miles to make and 
everything on the river passin' us. Oh ! we 're in luck, we 
are ! The Sovereign, the Monarch, and the Barr all ahead 
of us, their passengers to get the good claims, the best cabins, 
the best of everything, while we who paid extra for just such 
luck are left here to kick our heels on the bank ! " Such an. 
unhappy lot ! 

We had half an hour's tramp on shore, where we were 
surprised at being able to gather mulberries, currants, and 
raspberries, which grew wild. We had an interview with 
Rip Van Winkle's double, who has lived here some years 
raising turnips, radishes, lettuce, and carrying them over 
the trail to Circle City. He was doing well until the river 
rose and carried away his entire garden. What a delicious 
luncheon we had ! — fresh radishes and sweet potatoes, which 
never before had we properly appreciated. At 4.30 p.m. we 
reached Circle City, and were delighted to see the John Barr 
tied to the banks, but alas ! she pushed off even as we ar- 
rived and her passengers shouted, " We will deliver our own. 
messages in Dawson, thank you, and will not trouble you, 
who have tarried so long by the way, to give them." The 



Discomfort of Barge Life 89 

plank was soon out, and here some half-dozen passengers 
left us to tempt fortune in a strange land. The French girl 
who had informed us that she was to be married on arrival, 
as her fiance had sent for her, had basely deceived us if a 
newcomer was to be believed, who said that she had been 
sent for to be their cook at one hundred dollars a month. 

We were greatly astonished at the size of Circle City. 
We went first to the post-office, simply to see it, expecting 
nothing and receiving nothing. We concluded afterwards 
to post our letters home from there, although told that they 
would go more quickly via Dawson and the Pass ; still, we 
wanted the Circle City stamp on the envelope, for who can 
tell how much longer the town may exist. The Doctor 

overtook us, and presented the famous pioneer, Mr. M , 

who has been thirty-five years in Alaska, and has a hand- 
some Indian wife. He informed us that, although Dawson 
has a population of from ten to forty thousand, Circle City 
contains more houses, and is much healthier, as the former 
is in a frightful sanitary condition. We peeped into the 
dance-hall, and were told of an entertainment that had taken 
place the previous night which, in the words of our in- 
formant, " even the nicest people from the other steamer 
attended, and they did n't put on no airs, but followed the 
rule of the mining-camp, and danced with every fellow what 
asked 'em. They don't ask nothing to go in, but you have 
to order a drink fer each girl you dance with, and every 
drink costs a dollar." We also peeped into a couple of 
restaurants, saw fine-looking bread at twenty-five cents a 
loaf, pies fifty cents each, clam-chowder fifty cents, and the 
tables covered with dainty white linen. In the midst of in- 
vestigations which we were highly enjoying the dinner-bell 
called us back to the barge. There was the usual grum- 
bling, — " Why could n't they have postponed it a little 
while ? " etc. We were stopped by Mr. P , who intro- 
duced to us a man of about thirty years of age. " Have you 
been here long ? " I questioned. " Why, I 'm the Mayor," 
he replied ; " and this is my fourth year at Circle." 

A second ringing of the bell reminded us that we were keep- 



90 Two Women in the Klondike 

ing the stewards waiting, and that it was already after five, 
so we joined the crowd who were all going on board under 
protest. After dinner we were grieved at being obliged to 

say farewell to Mr. S , one of the most popular of our 

passengers. May good luck attend him ! His hand was 
shaken again and again by those who were sad indeed to 
leave him behind, and his loss will be mourned by more 
than one. We had two new and entertaining arrivals who 
contradicted many of the stories we had heard of Dawson. 
In fact, all stories in this part of the world seem to be told 
but to be contradicted. According to the newcomers, 
Dawson is exceedingly healthy, prices are very low — bacon 
only twenty cents a pound, whereas we are paying fifteen 
cents a pound freight, while this, added to original price 
and duty to be paid, would prove it wiser to start empty- 
handed and purchase provisions at the journey's end. An- 
other new passenger who has a dozen claims in Circle as well 
as in Dawson, said: " I 've concluded to let others work 'em, 
while I take a job on a steamer at five dollars a day. I kin 
save money by it, for when I 'm on shore I kin never let 
whiskey alone ; why I spend as high as a hundred dollars a 
day for it." 

Our pigeons have attracted great attention, and we have 
received many fine offers for them, but prefer ' ' squabs on 
toast." The man who wants the ice-cream freezer has 
gradually increased his bid, which now stands at eighty dol- 
lars, as he has heard he can get ten dollars a glass for ice- 
cream ! 




CHAPTER XI 



NEARING OUR DESTINATION 



Saturday, July 23rd. 

OUR guide-book tells us that ""the camp called Circle 
City was founded in the autumn of 1894. Up to the 
time of the discoveries on the Klondike, this was the wonder 
city of the north. The mines on Birch Creek and its tribut- 
aries proved to be so easily worked that two thousand peo- 
ple from all over the world flocked to the new camp. Four 
miles of cabins soon extended along the river, in the centre 
of which line of habitations was the Alaska Commercial 
Company's commodious post. In this new settlement ' the 
games never closed. ' Here were theatres, restaurants, stores, 
saloons, — in short, a city. The miners made and executed 
their own laws. Theft, murder, and outrages upon the per- 
son were practically unknown. Fortunes in gold could be 
left for a year in an unlocked cabin, and none would come 
to break in and steal. The success of this miners' govern- 
ment at Circle City is one of the most notable examples fur- 
nished by history of the ability of the people to govern 
themselves. Though the rush to Dawson in 1896-97 almost 
depopulated Circle, much gold is known to remain in the 
Birch Creek diggings, which are some fifty-two miles away, 
but reached by a good horse trail. The camp will undoubt- 
edly make a large output of gold for years to come." Bush- 
rod Washington James says of it in 1897 : " Circle City is 
a considerable town of about two thousand inhabitants when 
they are at home, but subject to variation of population. 
Many fine placer mines surround this really important city, 
but the rage for the Klondike gold-fields has for the time 

91 



92 Two Women in the Klondike 

almost depopulated the comfortable log houses of which the 
town is built." 

How thankful we were to leave behind us the Victoria 
which had caused loss to so many of our passengers ! For 
the first time we were able to sleep soundly from midnight 
until 6 a.m., when awakened as usual by the stewards. The 
tables are never lifted, but always dragged across the wooden 
floor to the accompaniment of loud conversation. No plate 
is ever laid on the table, but dropped as though to see from 
how great a height it may be done without breaking, and 
some are either growing to be very expert at the game, or 
else the dishes are of unusual strength. While writing this 

morning it suddenly grew very dark, and K said, " A 

rain-storm, probably," but as she glanced out of the window 
exclaimed that the darkness was caused by the immense 
height of the mountains, that seemed almost near enough to 
touch. The scenery is growing more wild and attractive. 

Someone has been, and still is, dancing a hornpipe over 
head with such force that the boards above bend with each 
emphatic kick, which causes me to regret having signed the 
petition requesting that the confiscated ladder might be re- 
placed ; but, thank the I,ord, Dawson is only three hundred 
miles distant, and this tedious fight against the seven-miles 
an-hour current of the Yukon will soon be ended. If we 
had only dared cross the Pass " going in," taking this 
means of leaving the country, we should have had this 
tremendous current aiding us the entire way. The day has 
been passed in silent admiration of the grandeur of the 
mountainous scenery — chain upon chain of rocks crowned 
with trees, which seem to be growing from the solid stone, 
and down the sides to the water's edge, with never a sign of 
earth to support the roots. Smoke on all sides fills the air, 
as camp-fires are built and not extinguished, and the flames 
slowly climb the mountain-side, destroying the much-needed 
wood, and spoiling the picture otherwise so beautiful. 

Sunday, July 24th. 
So chilly to-day that shirt-waists have been discarded for 



Nearing our Destination 93 

thicker garments and wraps, and few can remain out of 
doors. The mess-hall is filled with card-players. The 
missionaries and those devoutly inclined shut themselves in 
their cabins, but that does not prevent them from hearing 
all that takes place in the universal sitting-room. Before 
luncheon a great shout went up, followed by shrieks, hur- 
rahs, cat-calls, " We '11 meet you in Dawson." Looking 
through the cabin-window, I saw the John Barr replenishing 
with wood, and the cheers of our passengers meant that we 
were slowly but surely leaving her behind. " Don't you be 
so cocky," they called ; " wait until you need wood again, 
and then our turn will come. ' ' 

4.30. The shrieks are recommencing, which announce to 
those below that the John Barr is again passing us. Shouts 
of triumph from her passengers and of despair from ours 
are wafted on the air. Now the Leah blows her whistle, and 
we are off again, probably for an exciting race, should the 
channel prove sufficiently wide. 

Monday, July 25th. 

The exciting event to-day was " crossing the line." We 
were at dinner when someone called out, " We 're just going 

into a foreign land." J left the table, and opened his 

cabin door, so that we who were seated opposite could obtain 
a fine view of the termination of the possessions of the United 
States and of the entrance to the Dominion of Canada. 
Ogilvie, in his most interesting and useful guide-book, tells 
us that " the river here is somewhat contracted, measuring 
only one thousand two hundred and eighty feet across in the 
winter ; but in summer, at ordinary water level, it would be 
about one hundred feet wider. Immediately below the 
boundary, it expands to its usual width, which is about two 
thousand feet." 

Several bouquets which had been gathered in the vicin- 
ity of the different landing-places were brought to me 
during the day. We were greatly surprised to find flowers 
growing in such abundance. We are becoming so weary 
of this never-ending voyage that we have been asking con- 
cerning the difficulties of the Pass, so, after dinner, Mr. P 



94 



Two Women in the Klondike 



came with maps and plans in order to explain to us all the 
dangers in store for those willing to attempt such an under- 
taking. Notwithstanding, both K and I are longing to 

see the other part of the country, and are carefully weighing 
the pros and cons, hoping to find that we can try the trail 
without imprudence or risk. 




SALTING THE PAN. 

Tuesday, July 26th. 
We are now approaching " Forty Mile," of which Ogilvie 
says : ' ' Forty Mile River is the only river in the district on 
which, up to the fall of 1888, coarse gold had been found, 
and it may be said that much of it can hardly claim that dis- 
tinctive title. The largest nugget found was worth about 
thirty-nine dollars. It was lost on the body of a miner who 
was drowned at the canon. Several other nuggets of much 
less value have been found, but the number of pieces which 
one could call ' nugget ' are few. The miners term Forty 



Nearing our Destination 



95 



Mile a ' bed-rock ' creek — that is, one in the bed of which 
there is little or no drift, or detrital matter, the bottom of the 
river being bed-rock. In many places this rock has been 
scraped with knives by the miners, in order to gather the 
small amount of detritus, and its accompanying gold. Very 
little of the gold on this creek was found in Canadian terri- 




A LESSON IN PANNING OUT GOLD. 



tory, the coarsest gold being found well up the river. In 
the town of Forty Mile, close up to the Yukon, potatoes, 
radishes, cabbages, turnips, and lettuce have been grown 
with fair success, especially the last-named. Another garden 
in a fairly situated, well-sheltered spot at Cudahy yielded 
fair radishes, turnips, cabbage, and lettuce. Very fair pota- 
toes were grown on an island at the mouth of the Sixty Mile 
in the Yukon, by Mr. H . He had also a garden at Sel- 
kirk, in which he planted potatoes for several years, but to 
protect them from frost went to the expense of having an 



96 Two Women in the Klondike 

immense awning made of heavy cotton which he lowered on 
them every clear night when frost threatened. Without this 
they would not have ripened. Oats have been sown at 
Forty Mile for several years, but never ripen, though they 
develop enough to make fair fodder." 

Facing us, and to the right as we approach, is Forty Mile. 
Nestling on the edge of the water, at the foot of high hills 
backed by the mountains, lie Forts Cudahy and Constantine. 
At the right are two small houses, a few warehouses, a flag- 
pole with a red flag flying, and nine one-story houses. Be- 
yond is the mission where Bishop lived and worked 

for many years. Quite a number of passengers left us at 
Forty Mile. Others started for a tramp and we waved adieu 
to them as the Leah steamed across the river for wood. 

After luncheon, Mr. L , of Circle City, asked if I 

would like to pan out some gold, as the ground in the vicinity 
looked rich. No second invitation was needed — my pan was 
in my hand and went with me on shore in less time than it 

has taken to write this. Mr. L brought a shovel and 

helped dig, then showed me how to wash the gravel, which 
I did with great impatience, shouting with excitement as 
the colours began to show, until, in a few moments, pas- 
sengers and stewards had joined us with their pans. The 
result of my first work was between fifty cents and one dollar 

to the pan, and L told me to stake off the ground at 

once, and record the claim. Of course there were the usual 
remarks about someone having salted it, but that did not 
deter others from digging with a will in this lucky hole, 
offering to give me a percentage of whatever they found for 
permission to do so. The whistle blew, calling us on board, 
and back we went to Forty Mile to pick up our stranded 
passengers. They brought us the following war-news which 
they had gathered on shore: that Spain's navy had been 
completely wiped out ; that the Oregon had chased and sunk 
Spain's last ship, but that in capturing Santiago we had lost 
eighteen hundred men ; that " Teddy's" Rough Riders had 
received worse treatment than those in any other regiment; 
also that Admiral Cervera had been caught and held as 



Nearing our Destination 



97 



hostage for Hobson, who had not been shot as according to 

former report. Mr. L presented us with a couple of 

oranges, the first seen since leaving St. Michaels. " Oh, 

my ! " said a woman to E , " do you know that them 

there oranges is worth fifty cents apiece ? it 's like eatin' so 
much money. How kin you do it ? " 

The old fiddler soon joined us and entertained us with his 




>S FIRST PAN. 



stories. " Wa'al," said he, finally, " I reckon we won't 
have any worse times at Dawson than we 've seed ter hum. 
I tol' my wife, sez I, ' if we live much longer we may spend 
all our money an' then we 'd have ter inconvenience some 
people in takin' care o' us, an' tho' I 'm nearly eighty, I 'm 
goin' to that country where there 's gold to be had for the 
diggin', or where I kin turn my hand to something ' ; an' so 
she sez, sez she, ' I '11 come along, too.' Yer know she came 



9 8 



Two Women in the Klondike 



to me without a change o' clothing when she runned away 
from home. I Ve larned her everything she knows, an* 
give her a pretty good home in the bargain; so she sez, ' I 'Jl 
stan' by you,' and just packed up and brought our two- 
servant-girls what 's been with us so long we could n't leave 
'em behind. Dunno what we '11 do in Dawson, but like 's 
not we '11 run a small hotel." — " American style? " — " You 
bet your life. None o' your French cookin' for me. Why, 
durn it, when they begin by puttin' a plate o' soup before 
me an' nothin' else, I jest begin by crumblin' crackers and 
bread an' everything I kin reach into it, till I 've made such 
a hearty mess that I ain't got no appetite for nothin' else, 
I 'm glad you 've got my picter with the fiddle, coz I think 
more o' that fiddle than a baby. I got a flannel night-dress 
for it, an' two or three silk dresses." 




CHAPTER XII 

THK PROMISED LAND 

Wednesday, July 27th. 

WE made such fast time during the night, that we are 
now nearing Dawson at a rapid rate and find the 
scenery on all sides far grander than we had anticipated. 
Here is Dawson at last ! No pictures we have seen, no de- 
scriptions we have read or heard, compare with the reality. 
Those who were here last year tell us that it has grown at 
least one hundred per cent. The three long wharves are so 
packed with people that we expect to see them precipitated 
into the water by the addition of a feather's weight. Miles 
and miles of tents of all sizes and descriptions fill the town, 
and are pitched everywhere on the hillside. Skeletons of 
many warehouses which are being constructed and a few 
log cabins are also to be seen. Stores of all kinds line the 
main street and river-front, some being less than ten feet 
wide, as rent for ground is ten dollars a foot per month, we 
are told, in this business part of the town. From the land- 
ing up to the Klondike River, boats of every style line the 
water-front, reminding one of the house-boats about Canton, 
although those belonging to this settlement are of a much 
more primitive character, but a better description might be 
given after a more thorough acquaintance with this unique 
and wonderful place, which I christened at sight " Circus 
Town." As we neared the wharf of the Alaska Commercial 
Company we searched in vain for a familiar face among the 
thousand before us. Such perfect discipline seemed marvel- 
lous. We tied up at the dock, but not one man stepped on 

99 



ioo Two Women in the Klondike 

board, no one attempted to land, and yet there were only- 
two Canadian officials on duty. There was much hand- 
shaking across the boat's side, shouts of " Hulloa, Bill ! " — 
" Why, there 's Jim," etc., for every man is known by his 
Christian name in this part of the world. Upon inquiring 
for the two men to whom we had letters, and who had pro- 
mised to look out for us, we were informed that they had 
" gone out" on the steamer which had passed us in the 
night. 

At that news we felt indeed that we were strangers in a 
strange land, when who should evade the police and jump 
on board, after having rowed around the Leah in a canoe, 

but Mr. M ! a case of the bread which we had cast upon 

the waters returning to us in a moment of need. We had 
become interested in him when we were in California. He 
was land-poor and just about to go to Dawson over the Pass. 
He looked delicate, and after all the tales that we had read 
of the hardships of that terrible trip, we felt that he might 

never live to reach there, so E and I talked it over and 

finally decided to send him in by steamer and allow him to 
11 pay up" when his mines should prove valuable. How 
glad we were to receive his cordial, hearty greeting! After 
lunching with us, he accompanied us on shore to look at 
accommodations. 

We first went along the main street to a new hotel which 
was to be opened that evening with a big dinner, followed 
by a dance. The house, built of wood, and three stories 
high, quite towered above the tents and cabins of its neigh- 
bours. The only entrance that was finished was through 
the new and elaborately furnished barroom, within whose 
walls many a sad history will probably be recorded during 
the coming year, as we are told that "the liquor busi- 
ness here is bigger pay than the richest mine," and that 
" even the smallest barroom realises between five hundred 
and a thousand dollars a night." Separated by a hallway 
from this saloon is the dining-room, beautifully clean, table 
covered with damask, and even napkins (something unusual 
in this part of the world) at each place. The menu, begin- 



102 Two Women in the Klondike 

ning with " oyster cocktails," caused us to open our eyes 
wide with astonishment, after all that the papers have told 
us of the starvation about Dawson. We next visited the 
kitchen adjoining, where there was a stove that would have 
gladdened the heart of any cook at home. The chef was 
said to be from Marchand's, of San Francisco. The pro- 
prietress explained to us that she had sent for chairs, which 
had arrived without legs, they having been left on the dock 
at St. Michaels, one of the inconveniences that one has to 
bear through the negligence of transportation companies, 
so she had carpenters at fifteen dollars a day manufacturing 
new legs. 

On the second floor, a long, narrow hall separated rooms 
that were about double the size of an ordinary cabin on ship- 
board. Each room contained a primitive wooden bedstead, 
but there was no space for wardrobe, closet, or dressing- 
table. Evidently the pride of the hostess's heart was cen- 
tred in Brussels carpets and lace curtains, to which she 
called our attention as having been introduced into Dawson 
for the first time. The price of one of these tiny rooms was 
six dollars and a half a day, food five dollars extra, or two 
dollars a meal. On the third floor the carpenters were busy 
preparing for the evening dance, after which the large hall 
was to be partitioned off into small rooms, at five dollars a day 
each, providing that the sojourn of the guest should be at least 
of one month's duration, otherwise terms to be increased 
accordingly. We were cordially invited to return for the 
dinner at 10 p.m., and also for the dance. Noticing that there 
were no panes of glass in the windows, which were simply 
covered with cheese-cloth, we asked what happened in case 
of rain, and were told that it very rarely rained, but that 
when it did there would probably not be sufficient to do any 
damage. Glass also had been ordered, but, as usual, it was 
impossible to tell when or by what steamer it would arrive. 

From the hotel we continued our walk as far as the 
banks of the famous Klondike River. But of it and its at- 
tractions later — in case we have the courage and good fortune 
to tramp in that direction to pan out gold on a claim of our 



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104 Two Women in the Klondike 

own. Then to the other end of town, to a small cabin 12x18 
on the hillside, it being the one upon which we had an option 
for two thousand dollars. As it was crowded in by tents on 
all sides, with the sun beating down upon it, and as we were 
exhausted by the long tramp after a six-weeks' voyage, 
we were finally persuaded to row across the Yukon to West 
Dawson, which was described to us as being on high ground, 
healthy and cool, and just the place for our tent. Our guide 
invited the Doctor to accompany us in his canoe. Going 
over is very easy, as the current carries the boat at the rate 
of at least five miles an hour, if not more, but the return trip 
requires strong oars and stout arms. 

We landed at the foot of a picturesque bank, which was 
already in its favour, as compared with the marshy swamp 
on the opposite side. Plenty of room there was for an ordin- 
ary tent, but it was difficult to find space sufficient for our 
40x70. Finally, we came to a bit of ground belonging to 

Mr. , who told us that, as he was leaving the following 

day, he would gladly give up to us his rights of possession, 
before starting on a prospecting trip. The miners from all 
the tents in that vicinity were sitting outside, enjoying their 
evening meal, from which they rose to give us cordial wel- 
come, and to tell us that in case we were prevented from turn- 
ing up on time they would allow no one else to " jump " the 
site. They also begged us not to hire men to pitch the tent, 
as they should like the pleasure of doing it for us. Although 
they were clad in rough miners' costumes, their gentle and 
kindly manners showed that at home they occupied positions 
of no slight prominence. At 9 p.m. the sun was still light- 
ing us on our way, and we decided that with three steamers 
in port, it would be a fine occasion for " doing the town " as 
it is called here. 

We were first escorted to the dance-hall of the place, 
and slipped through a private entrance into a box that was 
curtained, so that we were free from observation while able 
to see all that took place. Nothing could have been more 
highly proper than the dancing, which consisted of waltzes, 
polkas, and military schottisches, interspersed with occasional 



106 Two Women in the Klondike 

square dances, which seemed more like Caledonians than 
lancers or quadrilles. The ''girls," as they were called, 
seemed to be between twenty-five and thirty years of age. 
A lot of Dawson " society " men were dancing with them, 
the handsomest being " Nigger Jim," whom we watched 
admiringly from our peep-hole as he " trod the mazy " with 
a sombrero hat on the back of his head, a cigar in his 
mouth, and the most debonair air imaginable. According 
to the rule of the house, drinks at one dollar each must be 
ordered after every dance. In case the " girl " does not care 
to drink, her partner gives her a check which she is allowed 
to " cash in " later, receiving twenty-five cents from the pro- 
prietor of the dance-hall. She is also paid twenty-five dollars 
a week for dancing, or at least so we were informed. In the 
rear of the hall was a stage and there were ensconced five 
men who composed the orchestra, and very good music they 

produced. We heard one or two songs from the O 

Sisters, and then adjourned to the Monte Carlo Theatre, 
where we witnessed a thoroughly respectable variety show, 
which came to an end a little before midnight, after which 
we were escorted safely back to our barge through crowded 
streets, where law and order are wonderfully well maintained. 

Thursday, July 28th. 

The first visit that K and I paid this morning was to 

the post-office, to inquire for the large batch of mail which 
we supposed had been sent in to us over the Pass, To our 
great astonishment there was but one letter. We sent for 
the postmaster, who listened most courteously as we told him 
of the books, magazines, and papers which we had ordered 
to be forwarded long before our departure. He politely ex- 
plained that a very small mail had been sent in over the 
Pass, but that the greater quantity would come by the 
Alliance according to contract made by our Government. 
First disappointment. 

The Alaska Commercial Company is very generous in 
allowing passengers to remain on the boats until they have 
found comfortable accommodations. On returning to lunch- 



The Promised Land 107 

eon we were greatly interested in the different plans. The 
old fiddler said : " There ain't nothin' here for me. The 
whiskey business is overdone — saloon on every corner, an' a 
dozen thrown in between ; restaurants everywhere ; houses 
with only one room, the cheapest on 'em a hundred dollars 
a month ; me an' my wife 's goin' back on this same 
steamer." One of the most energetic passengers was a Ger- 
man, who, with her daughter and two sons, had already 
visited every available site in town, had purchased a con- 
trolling interest in the swimming-bath, and was planning to 
partition from it one side, which she intended to run as a 
laundry ; the other for her daughter to serve ice-cream, cakes, 
and " soft drinks." The Colonel's wife was most unhappy, 
as the German had engaged the two " servant-girls which 
I 've raised and brought up here," said she, " and now they 
won't go back with me." 

Before leaving San Francisco, we had supplied ourselves 
with certificates of deposit on the Bank of California, worth 
fifty dollars each, which we were told were not only " as 
good as gold," but " command a premium of from ten to 
fifteen per cent, in Dawson." Imagine, then, our surprise at 
being obliged to pay two dollars and a half a hundred for the 
privilege of exchange. Another surprise was when, after 

luncheon K and I started on a shopping expedition, 

she was greeted by a man who had travelled through Egypt 
in her party in '95. After dinner we were asked to accom- 
pany a few friends on an exploring expedition, but, feeling 
exhausted, preferred sitting in our easy chairs on top of the 
barge, from which point we commanded the entire town. 
Our first visitor was Mrs. , a former passenger, whose hus- 
band is a Dawson physician. He accompanied her, and we 
were greatly amused by the experiences which they related. 
" Our cabin, although large for Dawson," said she, " is too 
small to contain trunks, furniture, and a stove, so we do with- 
out the latter and take our meals at restaurants, but oh, how 
I hate to see four dollars passed out three times a day just for 
our food! As for the Doctor, he is so accustomed to receiv- 
ing- seventeen dollars for a visit that he does n't mind." 



108 Two Women in the Klondike 

Good Father R joined our party and told me that one 

of the Sisters at the hospital here had been in the hospital at 
St. Josephs, Victoria, during my stay there, and that she 
was anxious to see me. How delightful it will be to meet 

her again in this far-away corner of the world! Mr. L, 

then presented the correspondent of the New York Herald 
and a Mr. J , who we were informed was the rightful 




CANADIAN BANK OF COMMERCE, DAWSON. 

owner of the land which we have been inspecting in West 
Dawson. He told me that he and his partner had staked 
out one hundred and sixty (or perhaps many more — have 
forgotten the number) acres. They had paid the commis- 
sioner a deposit of fifty dollars on the land, which he had 
accepted. They had spent many thousands in clearing it 
and in starting a fine garden. Just as radishes, and many 
other delicacies (for that part of the world) were spring- 
ing into life, the squatters came, and, as the Government 



The Promised Land 109 

had failed to protect his rights, this garden had been aban- 
doned, and he would be delighted to have us as neigh- 
bours. Some miners were here introduced, among them one 
of the ' ' Klondike Kings." I begged for a story, whereupon 
he said that one of the most amusing things that had hap- 
pened to him was the receipt of the following letter, which 
he kindly allowed me to copy : 

' ' Dear : Doubtless you will be surprised to receive a 

letter from your native land in far-off America, but seeing 
your picture in the paper with details of your sojourn in the 
Gold Regions, and pleased with your courage and Perse- 
verance thought I would like to make the acquaintance of 
one that has spent 8 long years in the Yukon after so many 
reverses becomeing the Mineing King How true if you 
don't succeed at first try try again and you surely have been 
rewarded for your trials and hardships endured which I 
suppose was many and hard at the time. Yet wherever we 
are, there are more or less hardships to bear. Though my 
younger days were spent with much Happiness haveing 
everything that Heart could wish. Then I married one of 
the best men of the world and my life was a pleasant Dream 
of love, until he died leaving me alone in this cold, cold 
world. Not haveing children, I have spent most of my time 
with relatives here and in the West. I am very fond of 
travelling, and have been fortunate in that respect. The 
paper speaks of your Wandersome disposition. True, that 
is very well when we are young. My experience is that 
there is no place like a Pleasant Home, with a lovei?ig and 
devoted husband and it seems to me that a bachelor of your 
age, would conclude that life was not worth liveing, without 
a dear little Wife to look after your Happiness in sickness 
and Health with plenty of this world's goods, to make every- 
thing comfortable / have always been use to plenty and 
have an income that keeps me very comfortable, but the 
Loneliness of this life. I have been of a bright and Lively 
disposition and enjoyed Life untill the passed 3 years but 
now every thing seems faded and life not worth liveing. I 
cannot enjoy an?iy thing without some one to share that 



no Two Women in the Klondike 

Happiness I am rather tall, brown hair, and blue eyes, 
fond of music and the fine Arts ; have studdied both. Now 
that you have almost finished reading my letter, I hope you 
will reflect and think kindly of me, and answer this poorly 
composed and written letter through Friendship and that 
some day, some where we may meet and not be sorry that 
this letter was written. I can give the best of Referrence 




VIEW ON THE SHORE OF THE YUKON. 



and of course expect the same. Thinking you would be 
pleased to see your picture in the paper, I enclose the same 
then you can tell me in return if it is really you. I wish you 
would send me a Photo — then I will return the compliment. 
Since July, I have constantly been with my Invalid Mother 
who has been verry ill most of the time and not expected to 
Live long, as she is 75 years old and one of the Sweetest in 
this world and I feel that when her Spirrit leaves that poor 



ii2 Two Women in the Klondike 

old Body that it will get to that Land of Rest where all is 
Piece and Happiness. If you are pleased with this letter 
and wish to answer I will promise a Better one in return 
Respectfully your true and unknown Friend 

"Mrs. ." 

Friday, July 29th. 

As the Leah and the barge were about to pull out of the 
harbour this morning, carrying many of our former pas- 
sengers, J (who had concluded to try Dawson rather 

than Rampart) said, " Mrs. H , if you 're going to live 

across the river you '11 want a boat and there 's a man 
' going out ' on the Leah who will sell one for ten dollars." 
" But I know nothing of boats ; let me wait and consult 

M ." " You can't," said J , " he 's off now." The 

owner then sung out, " You may have it for five," and with 
a woman's love for a bargain, after a hasty glance at the 
boat, I handed out the money and was very proud to be told 
afterwards that in this part of the country the lumber alone 
is worth between tw r enty and thirty-five dollars, and still 
more proud that the Joseph was able to hold all our house- 
hold goods and provisions, weighing over a thousand 
pounds. 

We spent the morning at the Custom House, paying about 
one hundred dollars in duties. Our tent had already been 
taken across and was being prepared for our reception, but 
as it weighed over four hundred pounds, we engaged men 
to put it up carefully, unwilling to impose upon the good 
nature of our neighbours. Finally everything was cleared, 
and a kindly, helpful crowd escorted us and our boxes to the 
Joseph. 




CHAPTER XIII 

WE BECOME SQUATTERS 

AND now we are squatters on the land staked out by Mr. 
J and his partner. Our tent attracts the greatest 

amount of attention from each side of the river. Tents, as a 
general thing, run from eight to perhaps twenty feet — but 
one this size ! ! ! The Klondike Nugget wrote of it : * ' West 
Dawson is taking metropolitan strides. From this side of 
the river can be seen a large number of cabins going up, and 
within a few days has been erected the largest tent in the 
district. The West Dawsonites are to have the first church 
services in the town there next Sunday, which will be con- 
ducted by the Rev. Dr. D ." The same sheet added in 

its personal columns : " Miss V and Mrs. Admiral (!) 

H are the latest additions to Dawson society. The 

ladies are wealthy and are very well known in the United 
-States. They travel for pleasure, and are simply ' doing ' 
the Klondike country as they have done many other famous 
points of interest in Europe and America. They came in by 
way of St. Michaels, and expect to go out again before the 
freeze-up, and possibly by way of the Chilkoot Pass." 

To return to the subject of the tent. It took four men to 
transport it from Dawson. Our neighbours worked under 
the direction of an experienced man at fifteen dollars a day, 
with his assistants at one dollar an hour. We had given an 
•order for planking the entire ground, but when we saw as 
we entered, the wild flowers and plants, or rather weeds, two 
feet high, the place looked so picturesque that we concluded 
to allow it to remain in its natural state. The pigeons, per- 

8 

113 



ii4 Two Women in the Klondike 

mitted to fly about, looked so pretty in the high grass and 
perched upon the screen ; the canary and the parrot made 
the interior attractive and homelike — the general effect that 

of a conservatory. Mr. L, sent us a large bearskin, 

while our neighbours contributed half a dozen smaller ones. 

Mr. J sent radishes from his garden, and after they had 

all worked hard and were ready to enjoy a well-earned rest, 
we started the graphophone which many of ' ' the boys ' ' 
(they are all " boys " here) had never before heard. How 
delighted they were and how quickly the evening passed ! 
As they left at n p.m., we hooked the flap of our tent and 
made preparations for retiring. It seemed impossible that I, 
who had insisted, when at home, upon having doors locked, 
bolted, and barred, and who had never gone to bed without 
looking under it, as well as in the wardrobe and every con- 
ceivable nook and cranny, and who had also started for the 
Klondike with revolver, cartridges, and belt, should now be 
entirely free from fear, realising that the tents of honest 
miners were all about us, and that, were a burglar to present 
himself, one call from us would bring the man to justice so 
quickly that he scarce would have time to repeat a prayer. 

We had been advised to purchase air mattresses, as being 
lighter and more convenient than any other. Ours came 
from one of the best-known firms in San Francisco. We 
had them made to order, ordering at the same time canvas 
hammocks with a boxing all around so that they should be 
firmly held. Imagine, then, our indignation to find that 
this boxing was too flimsy to stand, while the air-pumps or 
bellows had been forgotten, although we had repeatedly 
charged the clerk not on any account to fail to pack at least 
two with the mattresses. Let me say just here that it is 
almost necessary to watch one's goods put into the box and 
the cover nailed down, no matter where one ma}^ outfit nor 
how responsible the firm, for it rarely happens that articles 
arrive with everything needed. Then begins a search in the 
stores and junk-shops for the one essential thing, and should 
one be so unusually fortunate as to find it, the cost would 
surely amount to five or ten times more than one would pay 



We Become Squatters 115 

for it at home. E and I spent an hour in trying to 

" blow up " our mattresses, but laughter at the funny situa- 
tion retarded work. Finally we rolled up in two ten-pound 
blankets each and tumbled into the hammocks on one side 
only to roll out on the other side, as our novel bed swung, 
landing us on the soft ground. After a little practice, how- 
ever, we managed it and slept a few hours until awakened 
by the icy wind. We then bundled up in heavy wraps, and, 
as our air pillows were too cool, we substituted those of down 
from our deck chairs, which were decidedly more comfort- 
able. After another short sleep we again wakened, shiver- 
ing with cold. K called to know if it were not time to 

.start the fire, as it was so light it must be late, so we pre- 
pared for breakfast and then looked at our watches — 2.30 
a.m. ! ! ! 

July 30th. 

The ' ' boys ' ' promised to find us a cook, but as he failed 

to materialise, K made some delicious soda-biscuit and 

we managed with great difficulty to open a tin of butter and 
of sardines. We had some nails, so drove one with a log of 
wood into one of the posts supporting the tent, and what do 
you suppose was the first thing we hung up ? Why, a 
mirror, of course. Some of the ' ' boys ' ' had opened boxes for 
us the previous evening, and we had as much fun and excite- 
ment in looking through them as though they had been 
Christmas boxes from home. As we had neither shelf, nor 
peg, nor table, we could only look into them in order to 
know where to find things when needed. By ten, the sun 
came out and shone with such power that it was too hot to 
continue the inspection, so we placed our chairs where we 
could get the breeze in the door of the tent, from which we 
had an unobstructed view of the river, the mountains, and 
Dawson nestling at the foot of this magnificent background. 
We began to read the three latest papers from San Francisco 
and Seattle, but were soon interrupted by visits from our 
neighbours, the miners whose tents surrounded ours. One 
of the men was particularly interesting. He was just about 
to start out on the trail, and had with him his dog carrying 



n6 Two Women in the Klondike 

a pack. He had been mining in California, he said, with 

Senator J and Senator T , and was now on his way, 

with provisions, to join his son, who was working claims on 
some bars where he had found rich gold. He promised to 
prospect for us, and in case he found anything of value, to 
post our names there until we could tramp out and stake for 
ourselves. People came during the morning from all parts, 
to have a look at our wonderful tent, the fame of which 
seems to have gone far beyond Dawson. As they showed a 
disposition to see the interior, we gave them permission to 
enter, which they did in the most respectful manner, hats in 
hand. Their pleasure at sight of the pigeons and our other 
pets was most touching, and their delight in hearing music 
from our Criterion was unbounded. 

We may be surrounded by rough miners, but never have 
we met men more courteous or more ready to lend a helping 
hand, not only to women but to men. Before starting from 
California we had read that here each man was for himself 
and had no time to assist his neighbour, nor was he willing 
to offer him the smallest portion of " grub." All untruths ! 
for no such generosity exists in any other part of the world. 
Lunch-time and no cook ! We are beginning to feel the 
pangs of hunger, but do not dare attempt filling the coal-oil 
stove. We look outside and see our next-door neighbour 
cooking a delicious-smelling mess on his stove out in the 
open air. He glances towards us and asks if we would like 
some stewed oysters. We are divided between a longing for 
them, and the fear of robbing him and his partner, but his 
offer is so cordial that we accept, upon condition that he will 
take our box of sardines, which he does reluctantly. How we 
relish the oysters, and with what an appetite we devour 
them! Truly it is worth the trip to enjoy food as we now 

do. E borrows a place on her neighbour's stove and 

makes herself a cup of cocoa. Another neighbour goes to 
town and brings us two loaves of bread at twenty-five cents 
each, accepting the money most reluctantly, as they all want 
to be not only hospitable but generous. Another neighbour 
presents us with lemons ; still another with oranges, which 



n8 Two Women in the Klondike 

are given in such a wa} T that we cannot offer to pay for them 
without fear of offending these kind souls. One of the 
" boys " tells us that in a tent near by lives an English phy- 
sician who had the pleasure of meeting E in Yokohama, 

when her father was consul-general to Japan ; that he 
wishes to call on her, but has no ' ' boiled shirt ' ' ready, nor 
' ' store clothes. ' ' To this we exclaim, ' ' But our visitors must 
not stand upon ceremony. We find that we must keep to 
jerseys and short skirts while here, and the men must make 
no changes in their costume on our account. We are all 
roughing it and camping out, some for one purpose and 
some for another, and we desire to be treated as are others 
in West Dawson." In a very short time the Doctor made his 
appearance, handsome in his jersey, and and needing no 
" store clothes " to show him to better advantage. How we 
did enjoy talking over the Orient and those we had known 
in China and Japan ! Thus occupied, the afternoon sped by 
rapidly. 

Towards 5 p.m. the tent grows delightfully cool. M 

appeared with delicious salmon steaks for dinner and we 
could hardly wait for him to fill the coal-oil stove, so famished 
were we. It did not take long to light the fire and to heat 
some of Van Camp's delicious tomato soup. This is one of 
the articles of food we brought in which more than equals 

our expectations. E also cooked the salmon and heated 

a tin of corn, all of which we enjoyed more than any feast. 

E was then allowed a well-deserved rest, while M 

and I washed and wiped our aluminum dishes and hung them 

up on the high weeds. Poor M had been scouring the 

town all day for a cook but the search was in vain. " The 
boys" came and sat in the tent door after dinner, while we 
had some of our best Criterion music, and it was delightful 
to see how they enjoyed Lohengrin and Tannhauser, as well 
as Italian opera and Sousa's compositions. All parties 
break up here at eleven. So at that hour our tent flap was 
closed, and we followed the directions given to us by our 
neighbours and had a fine night's rest. We put rugs under 
the hammocks this time, so that the dampness from the 



We Become Squatters 



119 



ground should not rise ; then we made a bag of one pair of 
blankets, stepped into it, and rolled into the other instead 
of getting into a carefully made bed, and, although the night 
was quite as cool as the previous one, we slept as warmly 
and comfortably as if at home. One amusing thing occurred. 

The fur robe was under K 's hammock, while under mine 

was placed the pair of blankets purchased for Ivan, but which 
we were told he ought not to be allowed to use so early in 
the season. Hardly had we fallen asleep before the dog 





A SLEEPING BAG. 

recognised his blankets and tried to crawl under my ham- 
mock in order to take possession of them. As he pushed 
under on one side, the hammock tipped over on the other 
and sent me rolling out on the grass, which caused me quite 

as much merriment as it did E , whose laughter was soon 

hushed, lest our neighbours should be disturbed. 



Sunday, July 31st. 

Another glorious day ! Temperature delightful. While 
K lighted the fire and heated some of our tinned stores, 



120 Two Women in the Klondike 

I fed and watered the pigeons, parrot, canary, and dog. By 
the time we had finished breakfast and our few chores, it was 
too late for church. Some of our neighbours came to invite 
us to row across in Peterboro canoes, which are considered 
the safest boats to use against the tremendous current, but 
we have a deadly fear of anything bearing the name of canoe, 
so had private services at home. launch hour, and still no 
cook, although the ' ' boys ' ' are scouring the town in search 
of one. We cooked a bit of salmon which was brought us 
from Dawson, heated some tinned vegetables, and, with our 
appetites, it was a feast. 

As we were sitting resting and reading at our tent door, 

who should appear but our shipmates, Mr. R and Dr. 

D , bringing with them a very handsome fellow named 

A , who has been in this part of the world so long that 

he thinks it would be difficult to live at home again. Hardly 
had they seated themselves, or rather thrown themselves on 

the rugs (for we have but three chairs), when Mr. M and 

Mr. R joined the party. They had all rowed across and 

were hot and thirsty. We remembered a powder which had 
been prepared for us by our San Francisco chemist, so we 
mixed it with the cool spring-water, making a delicious 
cider. As our guests had come to spend the afternoon in 
the country, we treated them without ceremony, and opened a 
box containing the latest periodicals of all kinds, which they 
had not yet been able to obtain, so that they could enjoy the 
illustrations as well as conversation. M spied my man- 
dolin, and told me how charmingly R played, and he 

was right. He drew from it more exquisite music than I 
had ever heard, even in Italy. Such a restful, peaceful sab- 
bath ! We also heard the songs of the Salvation Army, as 
the airs floated across the Yukon to us. 

We were sorry to tell our guests au revoir, but could not 
feel lonely, as one neighbour after another stopped to see if 

we needed anything. Mr. O , who is three tents away 

from us, came to ask if he could row one of us over in the 
morning. K gladly accepted, as she is to do the shop- 
ping. O said there were two great causes of excitement 



We Become Squatters 121 

in Dawson, from which town he had just returned. One was 
the preparations for the departure of the Bella ; the other, the 
arrival of two of our pigeons, which were quietly seated on the 
roof of a low building, with an admiring crowd about them, 
as many had not seen pigeons for years, and were revelling 
in the sound of their cooing. " I hope the} 7 won't shoot 

them for sea-gulls, ' ' said E . ' ' Never you fear, ' ' replied 

O ; " every man, woman, and child knows that they be- 
long to you two ladies, and they would be only too ready to 
bring them back to you, did they not think they would come 
of their own accord." Just then M appeared with a fel- 
low whom he introduced as his friend Mr. Isaacs, saying : 
" He is in hard luck just now. He took out last year eight 
thousand dollars from one of his claims ; went home to find 
his father had died, gave his mother seven thousand to pay 
off a mortgage on the old home, then put the remainder in 
an outfit and returned to Dawson. After a short rest, he 
started out on the trail, and after locating one or two claims, 
returned to find that his tent and entire outfit were burned 
to the ground. But his pluck never deserted him ; he de- 
termined to take the first job which presented itself, so he is 
willing to be your cook, boatman, and Jack-of-all-trades for 
five dollars a day and his ■ grub.' " The news of our acqui- 
sition was soon spread abroad, and we are now spoken of as 
millionairesses and are told that we shall probably have 
claims offered us by the thousand. 




CHAPTER XIV 

THE "SICK BOY" 

Monday, August ist. 

MR. O had promised to row K to Dawson at 
nine o'clock. At ten he had not yet turned up, so 
we sent Isaacs to inquire whether he had changed his plans. 
He quickly came to tell us that he had been sitting up with 
a sick boy all night, and had just finished breakfast, but 
would be ready in a few moments. I immediately went to 
the " sick boy " to see what he needed. He was sleeping 
in a small tent, on a bed made of pine boughs, covered with 
a fur robe ; his head was in an uncomfortable position, with 
no pillow ; he was feverish, and able to retain nothing on his 
stomach. To get him a nice cool air-pillow, to bathe his 
head and give him the juice of an orange, was the work of a 
few moments, and then I left, fearing to weary him, but 
giving him a whistle with which to call me in case of need. 
The poor fellow said he had never been ill before, and would 
rather be dead than on his back, but he had had a long, tough 
tramp over the mountains, " which knocked me out," said 
he. On the way back to " the big tent," as it has been 
christened, while exchanging salutations with the miners, I 
said, " It is sad to have an invalid neighbour " " Yes, but 
it 's nice to have one who brings sympathy and oranges," 
they replied. During the morning, Isaacs busied himself 
making a music-rack with four shelves, which is most use- 
ful, as, besides the purpose it is intended for, it holds maga- 
zines, illustrated weeklies, novels, and all the literature with 
which we filled one box, and to which our neighbours are 
offered free access. 

122 



124 Two Women in the Klondike 

K returned from town, having purchased the com- 



monest kind of a wooden table for eight dollars, but glad 
to get it at any price, although it was badly warped. Upon 
expressing a wish that we had half a dozen of them, Mr. 

J , who was calling upon us, said, "I have one that 

I '11 gladly lend you, and it won't be depriving me a bit, as 

it 's too large to go in my cabin. " K had also purchased 

moose-steak at a dollar a pound, but, although she had 
searched all the shops of Dawson, she was unable to find at 
any price a tub, large or small, for bathing purposes. She 

brought an invitation for Wednesday evening. Mr. M 

had asked us to dine, in case we would not mind eating as 
the miners do from a table with no table-cloth, and from 
sauce-pans instead of dishes. 

While at luncheon, five passers-by put their heads into 
the tent ; they were evidently from a distance, and were 
abashed as they caught sight of us, but we had been in- 
spired by the hospitality of our neighbours, and called out, 
" Come right in if you want to see the tent." They entered 
almost on tiptoe, and twirling their hats between fingers 
and thumbs, but at sight of the birds their feelings over- 
came them. One sat down near the canary and almost wept 
as he listened to its beautiful notes. Another said: " I used 
to have a parrot at home, an' it knew my footsteps so well 
that whenever I came into the house it always hollered, 
1 Papa! Papa ! ' Many a one tried to deceive it by walkin' 
like me, but it warn't no use, it never hollered for anybody 
else. Tell you what, parrots 'ez got a heap er sense. An- 
other thing yer could n't fool my parrot on was this : yer 'd 
take some money out o' yer pocket and shake it, en' she 'd 
holler, ' Gimme a nickel, gimme a nickel ' ; but yer might 
shake other things that sounded like money all night, an', 
though she could only hear it an' could n't see it, she 'd 
look as wise as an owl, an' never say a word." The ap- 
preciation and the deep feeling shown by these guests to 
whom chance had revealed some relics of home life were 
most touching. 

Towards evening I went again to the tent of the " sick 



The "Sick Boy" 125 

boy ' ' who seemed very much better and thanked me most 
heartily for the air-pillow which had been such a comfort to 
him. There was a heavy towel on his forehead, which I re- 
placed with a soft handkerchief, dipping it occasionally in 
the icy spring-water until he assured me that his head was 
greatly relieved. As there was only a box on which to sit, 
Isaacs brought over one of our steamer chairs, and the in- 
valid listened attentively as I read to him some of the war- 
news, for which he begged in preference to stories from novel 
or magazine. He interrupted occasionally to tell me of his 
life of wandering, of his adventures, and how, recently, he 
had been lying and watching, from his cot in the tent, the 
burials that took place across the river, ' ' sometimes five to 
ten a day," said he. " But you must remember that the 
population is said to be nearly forty thousand," said I, 
" and that the Dawsonites are living in a marshy swamp, 
while we are are on high, dry ground." Just then a blonde 
head appeared, and a pleasant voice exclaimed, " How are 
you feeling, Mr. Jones? " — " Oh, much better, thank you," 

and turning to me he said, " Mrs. H , let me make you 

acquainted with Mrs. A ," and I was soon deeply inter- 
ested in listening to Mrs. A 's experiences in crossing 

the trail from Dyea, which she declared to be so wonder- 
fully beautiful that it more than repaid one for all the perils 
of the undertaking. 

Next came Mr. O r to see if he could be of assistance; 

so taking my departure I walked down the bank to the cabin 
of a feeble neighbour, who had appealed to my sympathy the 
previous day, but his tent w T as empty. A neighbour said: 
" Oh, I got him off by the Bella, and, although it 's a great 
relief, I 'm filled with anxiety lest he should not live to 
reach home. You see we started out as partners months 
ago, and were to share half and half in all claims we might 
stake, but before we reached the Lakes he had a hemorrhage 
which was so alarming that I tried to persuade him to re- 
turn, but he would n't listen to it, consequently he soon 
grew worse and I had to carry him on my back whenever 
we reached a landing ; from a strong, stout man he soon be- 



126 Two Women in the Klondike 

came the wreck you saw him. My seven months have been 
spent in nursing him, we have staked no claims, and I am 
about seven hundred dollars out, but don't mind that if he 
only gets home safely. I intend now to pack up and go on 
the American side, where one has no ten-per-cent. royalty to 
pay." As the Bella was leaving, our man Isaacs rushed 
from the tent exclaiming, " Excuse me, marm, but as I 
helped caulk that ship when I was down on me luck in St. 
Michaels, I must see how she goes. Well, she do behave 
beautiful, she do." 

Although this is mainland, we call it ' ' our island, ' ' because 
it seems to us, as though we are leading a Robinson Crusoe 
life. We went on an exploring expedition this afternoon 
and our imaginary boundary lines are an eighth of a mile on 
either side, consisting on the left of a poultry-yard and small 
slaughtering establishment, from which the odour was so 
unpleasant that we hastily retraced our steps ; on the right, 
a rivulet or creek coming down from the mountain-side which 
supplies us with drinking water. As walking over this 
boggy ground is ruinous to shoes, we have decided to imi- 
tate the neighbours and wear either muck-a-lucks or rubber 
boots. We were greeted pleasantly from each cabin, where 
the miners are taking their summer's rest after a hard win- 
ter's work. Returned to find Dr. H waiting to pay us 

a visit ; he had brought photographs of his cabin, and talked 

of the friends we had in common in Japan. M , who 

had been shopping for us in Dawson, brought us rice, ropes, 
buckets, and numerous other little things needed, which it 
had been quite impossible for us to obtain. He joined us at 
dinner, and how we did enjoy that moose-steak ! After 
dinner the rain came down in torrents. 

For two days we have been waiting for the man who 
superintended the erection of our tent, as the poles are en- 
tirely too short, causing it to sag, and now we are punished 
for his neglect, as the sagging forms everywhere pockets 
which hold water and allow it to drip through as does the 
fruit-juice from a jelly-bag. There are twenty-four big 
pockets, and innumerable smaller ones, so we rush from one 



The "Sick Boy" 127 

to the other, raising the canvas with sticks, to hear the water 
drop with a thud on the ground outside. 

E and I have both grown tired of swinging in ham- 
mocks and want something more stationary, so Isaacs, with 
the assistance of our neighbours, cut down some trees, made 
them into four bedstead-legs, which they drove solidly into 
the ground, nailed across these side-poles, and then pieces 
for the head and foot. The frame being finished, a double 
thickness of burlap was tightly stretched across it, and this 

was E 's bed, upon which her hammock and mattress 

were placed ; a similar one was then constructed for me and 
finished by n p.m., and it was still too light for a candle. 
Isaacs had had an unusually hard day's work, but had been 
unwilling to leave until he had made us thoroughly com- 
fortable. The " boys" had divided their time between ren- 
dering him assistance and entertaining us. Mr. A gave 

us his experiences in crossing the Chilkoot Pass to which we 
listened intently, wondering whether we should be able to 
screw up our courage to the point of attempting so difficult 
a feat. He said that, like many another, he had quarrelled 
with his partner and made the usual division — cut the tent 
in half, the boat in twain, and even divided the stove. All 
night long the rain continued, but we, tightly wrapped in 
blankets in our fine new beds, thought of the old song, 

" Oh 't is sweet to lie at even 
On the lowly cottage bed, 
And to hear the rain-drops patter 
On the roof-top overhead." 

'T would have been sweeter except for the fact that our fifty- 
pound sack of flour, and all our worldly goods were lying 
on the ground, and we wondered whether they would be 
ruined by the dampness. 

Tuesday, August 2d. 

Not enough sun to dry anything, but it is a blessing that 

the rain has ceased, and we are praying to be protected from 

rheumatic pains, for dampness reigns supreme this morning. 

It was quite ten before we were able to have breakfast, but 



128 Two Women in the Klondike 

that is an hour earlier than any of our neighbours, who are 
seldom about before noon. Isaacs prepared us a delicious 
breakfast, and we are thankful for such a perfect oil-stove, 
which is always ready at a moment's notice for cooking of 
any kind ; we had nice fresh salmon taken from our Klon- 
dike refrigerator, which, by the way, I have not yet described. 
By digging from one and a half to two feet underground, one 
strikes ice, so we have a large subterranean ditch in the 
kitchen corner of the tent, in which we place boxes contain- 
ing meat, fish, or whatever one would preserve on ice at 
home. 

Mr. O and Mr. J paid a friendly call to ask if we 

wished to be rowed over to town, but we were so very busy 
unpacking and decorating our tent, that we had to depend 
upon them to bring us back a roast for dinner. Isaacs 
busied himself making a couple of benches for our table ; 
chopping trees, and breaking boxes, from which he made us 
shelves and a couple of stools. 'T was three o'clock before 
we knew it. Isaacs prepared soup from a " beef-stock 
powder," while E made most delicious scalloped to- 
matoes. We partook of these dishes and hot biscuit with 
keen relish, while our cook, being such a hard worker, got 
the remains of the moose-meat of the day previous, with 
some " evaporated " potatoes. 

At four o'clock Dr. II brought two most attractive 

young Englishwomen, who had come from Dawson to have 
tea with him. They had " come in " over the Chilkoot 
Pass. One had crossed the summit, suspended in a basket, 
one thousand feet above sea level. Naturally we were deeply 
interested in their descriptions. Mrs. F. had lived in Vic- 
toria, B. C, and knew many of my friends there, so the visit 
seemed all too short. 

5 p.m. A Mr. S has just been here, attracted by 

our pigeons, having raised fancy pigeons at home for his own 
amusement. He gave us much excellent advice in regard 
to building their cotes, and kindly offered to assist in their 
construction. He sat on the ground, Japanese fashion, out- 
side of our tent door and related some of his experiences. 



The "Sick Boy" 129 

He said that most of the ' ' boys ' ' had struck it rich, but 
that his turn had not yet arrived, as he did not intend to 
work his claims until those on either side had found plenty 
of pay gold, after which it would be easy for him to trace 
the vein. " There 's nothing makes a man cuss so much," 
said he, " as continuous but unsuccessful hard work. Why, 
I cuss by the hour sometimes, an' it 's like a thunder-storm 
— it clears the air. " ' ' Perhaps, should you do less ' cussing, ' 
and a little more praying." I mildly suggested, " you might 
have better luck." "I '11 bet the Missus is right," said 
Isaacs, tying his necktie and drawing up a bench on which 
he comfortably seated himself, " but by gosh ! it do comfort 

one a lot to say it all out." K and I looked at each 

other but dared not speak, as Isaacs commenced questioning 
our visitor, and relating experiences which had caused him 
also to use strong language. Cooks are rare in this part of 
the world, even at one hundred and fifty dollars a month and 
grub, and it would never do to offend one ; so, as we came 
to camp among this people and to write experiences, we de- 
termined to accept everything in the kindly spirit in which 
it was intended, and if our " Jack-of-all-trades " is " down on 
his luck" just now, a turn of the shovel may make him a 
millionaire. In this country there are no cliques of any kind, 
and all are really upon a perfect equality ; besides, Isaacs 
whispered to me to-day, " I say, Missus, don't you give it 
away, but I 've struck quartz just up here where I 've been 
-digging, an' if there 's much of it there, we can stake out 
all this land, and a mill-site as well." 

6 p.m. " What you doing ? Writing up all your 

troubles? " said Mr. O , as he stood at the entrance to 

our camp. " How could we have any," I answered, " with 
such kind neighbours, and where all is so peaceful ? " ' ' I 
came to see if you ladies would n't like to go to a dance to- 
night — a real nice, respectable dance, and something you 
could write home about." " Where 's it going to be?" 
called out Isaacs, from behind the kitchen stove. — " Over at 

C 's ; you going ? " " No ; I 'm too tired," replied 

Isaacs. " I 've been up all night for two nights and I must 



i3° Two Women in the Klondike 

get some sleep to-night. " " Won't you go, ladies ? ' ' pleaded 

O . " I '11 row you over and back, and give you a fine 

supper into the bargain." " It is really most kind," we ex- 
claimed, " and we appreciate it very much, but we 've been 
unpacking all day and are thoroughly exhausted ; there '11 
be other dances, will there not ? " " Yes, but this is going 
to be a splendid affair, and the supper 's going to be fine." 
" Supper ! " interrupted Isaacs; " why, that would cost eight 
dollars a head, and if you should give 'em fizz at forty dollars 
a pint, you 'd blow in a hundred dollars." " Oh ! I don't 

mind that," said O , " if they 'd only go; and they surely 

ought to see everything in Dawson." 

Just then Someone passed and said that the " sick boy " 
was not so well. I went at once to his tent and found that 
his illness had changed its form to one for which I happened 
to have an infallible cure. Its effect upon the invalid was 
marvellous, and saved him from the dysentery with which 
he was threatened. He was in a talkative mood, so I sat by 
his bedside and listened to a short and interesting sketch of 
his life, which I regret not having time to jot down just now. 

" Was n't you and Miss V in Denver ? " asked he ; " I 

thought I saw you there at a swell hotel. This little tent o' 
mine ain't no place for you to be. I 'm glad you come on 
this side o' the river to live, coz the ' boys ' are all nice an* 
kind, an' the likes o' that. If you 'd 'a' gone to Dawson in 
that new hotel, you 'd 'a' been shut in with an awful rough 

lot o' fellows. When Mrs. B arrived on this side, an* 

said she did n't want to live in a tent, and wished the boys 
would help her build a house, I said, ' Certainly we will ; 
come ahead, boys,' an' we had her cabin nice an' snug an' 
ready for her to go into it in a day ; but we can't do nothin' 
for you; you 've got not only every comfort, but every 
luxury, besides a man to wait on you. But there 's my boat, 
an' she 's a dandy, an' I 'd be powerful glad to have you 
take her and row to town whenever you feel like it, an' when 
I git well, I kin stake out a claim an' give it to you. Have 

you got any relations named General H ? I used to see 

him a long time ago, an' thought perhaps he might be a re- 




itmmm 



i3 2 Two Women in the Klondike 

lative of yours. Not much fun having a man o' the same 
name in the same town with you. Now last year when I 
was in Dyea I was the only Jones in town, an' all letters 
directed to John Jones came straight to me ; then there came 
along another man named John Jones, so I had my mail 
directed ' J. P. Jones,' and by Josh ! if there did n't come 
along a fellow of same name an' very same initials, an' he a 
nigger workin' in the hotel ; so then I had my name written 
out in full — Jonathan Peter Jones — an' after that I never 
got no letters at all." 

At 9 p.m. a pleasant voice said, " I reckon I 'm the only 

neighbour that has n't called on you. I 'm Mrs. B , and 

the busiest woman you ever met ; moved over here from 
Dawson to be quiet, and indulge in literary work, but it 's 
no use ; everyone is so kind that there is never a moment in 
the day without visitors, and so I have n't had time to come 

before," and in stepped Mrs. B , dressed in an Indian 

buckskin suit with two rows of fringe around the bottom, 
a most picturesque figure ; and for the past two hours she 
has entertained us with such stories of hairbreadth escapes, 
— in Arizona, New Mexico, and coming over the Pass, — that 
they far surpassed in excitement the most thrilling tales ever 
written. 

Mrs. B told of being " on the Mexican trail," when 

her guide wanted to turn back through fear of the Indians, 
" but I got the drop on him first," said she ; " otherwise he 
would have abandoned me right there, and I never should 
have been able to find my way out again." In crossing the 
Rapids, her guide, in a fit of anger, took her into the most 
dangerous part, became frightened, lost control of his skiff, 

and shouted, " Paddle for your life, or you '11 be in h ! " 

whereupon she replied coolly, " You '11 join me there unless 
you work as you 've never worked before." 

Another story was that once, after a long day's tramp, she 
stopped at a solitary cabin in the wilderness to beg for food 
and shelter. As the door was opened, she recognised (from 
a picture she had seen in one of the papers) a famous and 
long-sought-for criminal. However, she entered, was given 



The "Sick Boy" 133 

food, and after resting, while talking to her host, betrayed 
in some way that she had discovered his identity, whereupon 
he sprang at her, knife in hand, crying, " Are you one of the 
she-devils come to bring a wretched mortal to justice?" 
She replied, " Do you think I 'd be mean enough to betray 
a man whose face shows the torture of his daily and hourly 
punishment?" At that he fell back trembling like an 
aspen, and allowed her to depart in peace. We expressed 
great astonishment at her courage and daring, but she said 
that her love for work among the Indians was so great as to 
cause her to forget all fear and thought of self. Before 
leaving she asked if we would like to go on a stampede. 
We both jumped at the suggestion and were so wildly ex- 
cited at the plan she unfolded that we had little sleep that 
night. 




CHAPTER XV 

OUR FIRST DINNER IN DAWSON 

Wednesday, August 3d. 

ANOTHER rainy day ! Consequently, no stampede, as one 
would sink beyond the knee at each step. Isaacs was 

late, so E made some of her delicious biscuit and broiled 

some bacon, while I attended to the dining-room and fed and 
watered the many pets. Just as we finished, our man Friday 
entered, in time to do full justice to the remnants of our re- 
past, although, as we had furnished him on the previous day 
with a month's " grub," the agreement was that he was to 
do all his cooking and his eating in his own tent. So fearful 
were we, however, of losing our cook, butler, boatman, and 
Jack-of-all-trades, that we dared not enter a protest. We 
had lines stretched across the rear of the tent, and prepared 
to empty the trunks, which were covered with mould from 
having been stored in damp quarters while coming up the 
Yukon. We found many of our gowns ruined beyond re- 
demption, or in such a condition that it would be impossible 
to wear them again at home ; but the Alaska Commercial 
Company has the reputation of being just and honourable, 
so the loss will perhaps be made good to us on our return to 
San Francisco. 

Visitor number one, Mrs. B , followed by Mr. S , 

who came to assist in erecting the pigeon-cote. Isaacs was 

busy at work upon it when I said, "Mr. S will show 

you how to do it, as he has raised and cared for fancy 
pigeons." "All right, ma'am," replied Isaacs; "I '11 
watch him," and down he sat, lighting his pipe and leaving 

134 



13 6 Two Women in the Klondike 

the work to Mr. S . Here I really did have courage to 

enter a protest, which fortunately was graciously accepted. 

Visitor number three, Mr. T , who, finding us busy in 

the depths of yawning trunks, said that he would not disturb 
us, seated himself in an easy chair at the tent door, and en- 
joyed the magazines and papers, while we continued our 
work behind the screen. " Here 's your latest paper," we 
heard a couple of newsboys crying, as they went from tent to 
tent, causing quite a little excitement. California daily five- 
cent papers were freely purchased at one dollar each. We also 
bought the Dawson Klondike Nugget for fifty cents, for which 
the small news-vendors told us that they received twenty-five 
cents commission on the sale of each paper, showing that 
even here, the middleman reaps a larger benefit than the pro- 
ducer, whose expenses must be deducted. 

At noon M arrived, bringing with him some veal for 

luncheon, which he remained to share with us ; we had also 
some delicious potato balls, made from desiccated potatoes, 
and macaroni and cheese, in which we were indulging with 

ravenous appetites when Mrs. B appeared, bringing with 

her Dr. D , a Presbyterian clergyman. She left him 

seated with us at table, but not partaking of our food, while 
she went to prepare the luncheon for which she had in- 
vited him. The result of this visit was that we promised 
our tent for religious services next Sunday morning, at 
eleven o'clock, granting permission for notices to be posted 
both here and in Dawson proper. In the midst of an inter- 
esting conversation we heard a voice outside calling, " Din- 
ner is now ready in the Pullman car," and in this manner 

Mrs. B informed the clergyman that his time was up. 

" Is it the third and last call ?" we shouted, and upon hear- 
ing a reply in the affirmative Dr. D bade us au revoir. 

After luncheon we were informed by Isaacs that the pigeon- 
cote was ready to be lifted to the top of the four poles which 
he had embedded in the ground before the tent. " Now 
we '11 see," said he, " how many of your neighbours who 's 
been a-hoffering to do hevery think for you will 'elp me up 
with this 'eavy box. I expect they will all be deaf, dumb, 



Our First Dinner in Dawson 137 

and blind when I calls upon them, ' ' but he soon discovered 
his mistake, and the cote was soon high in air near the river 
bank, giving the Dawsonites and the West Dawsonites an- 
other novelty to admire. Two good hours it took to drive 
the pigeons out of the tent, after which the flap had to be 
closed, as we discovered for the first time how like cats they 
are in their love for home. This work finished, it was quite 
time to dress for our first dinner in Dawson. 

We had seen so much of showy silk gowns and draggled 
feathers on the other side of the river, that we preferred the 
quiet elegance of a well-made " tailor suit" with " boiled 
collar " and silk tie. Just before starting, O came to in- 
form me that the " sick boy " would like to have a little of 
our Van Camp's soup, so over to his tent I went with it ; 
found him in good spirits and with a ravenous appetite. He 
expressed himself as delighted that we were " going to dine 
with such nice people, and to see something of the better 

class of life." Just starting again, when Mrs. B came 

to tell us that she also had an invalid on her hands, who 
thought he could relish the same soup, a tin of which we 
gladly gave her. She said, " In this country, one must 
always take something in return for such a gift ; what shall 
it be ? " but we were speedily out of sight and hearing, as 
we stepped into the boat with Isaacs in the r61e of boatman, 
and a powerful one he proved to be, easily rowing it against 
the tremendous current. 

Scarcely had we landed when such a tremendous shower 
came down that we rushed for protection to the vestibule of 
the store of the North American Transportation Company, 
where we found many others seeking shelter. All eyes were 
on our tent, which we were facing, and the comments were 
most amusing, as they wondered whether it belonged to the 
Salvation Army, a merry-go-round, or circus company, but 
as a gust of wind sprang up, some one shouted, " Oh, it 's a 
balloon ! they 're inflating it." As we anxiously watched 
it rising and falling with the wind, someone overhearing our 
remarks on the subject said, " Does it belong to you two 
ladies ? W T hy would n't one half that size 'a' done yer ? Is 



138 Two Women in the Klondike 

it Salvation Army ? " — " No ; but there are to be services 
there next Sunday morning." — ''Free to all?" — "Most 
certainly." — " Well, then, we 're a-goin', an' many a boy 
who never goes to church '11 come, too, an' plenty o' others 
who want to see the inside o' that there tent." 

Just then our host, Mr. M , and his chum R dis- 
covered our retreat ; the rain stopped, and we were escorted 
to their one- roomed cabin. " I thought you 'd like dining 
in here, and seeing just how we live, better than going to a 

restaurant, and so here we are," said M , as we took a 

high step into the room, gorgeous with a magnificent fur- 
robe in one corner, a library in the other, in the third an oil- 
stove and a few kitchen utensils, while facing that was the 
dining corner used for multifarious purposes. We were at 
once seated on empty grocery boxes for chairs at a pine table 
without a cover, according to the custom of the country. 
On tin plates before us were caviare and sardines on toast, 
which our host had previously prepared. There were two 
other guests, one of whom handed me an envelope containing 

a letter of introduction from a son of Judge B , who 

wrote : " It is a matter of much regret to me, that I am leav- 
ing here before your arrival, for I had looked forward to the 
pleasure of meeting you, and thought, moreover, that I 
might be of some assistance to you. However, I am sure I 
cannot do better than by introducing my friends of New 

York. Anything they can do for you and Miss V I am 

sure they will be most glad to. With best wishes for a 
pleasant sojourn, I am sincerely yours." We were soon well 

acquainted, as F and C were college mates of 

K 's brother, and she had already heard much of them 

through him. 

While we were chatting and enjoying the first course, our 
host was putting a spoonful of soup stock into each of six tin 
cups filled with hot water ; he then passed them to us, say- 
ing, " Your medicine is now ready to be taken," and very 
good medicine it was, too. Our host then reached over to a 
frying-pan on the small stove, stirring with one hand a mess 
of oysters and cheese, while in the other he held his soup- 



i4° Two Women in the Klondike 

cup, from which he took an occasional sip. The pan was 
then lifted from the stove, and its contents distributed on 
our tin platters, and proving to be a most palatable con- 
coction. M ate with us, heating macaroni and toma- 
toes at the same time; and how we enjoyed it all ! After 
carefully cleaning our plates, we received upon them a bit of 
mince-pie (a great luxury), which had been nicely divided into 
six portions, with a tiny scrap left over, so that no one should 

be rude enough to take the last piece, said M . How we 

laughed over this novel entertainment, and wished for photo- 
graphs of such an unusual spectacle as that of college-bred 
youths in rough miners' costumes enjoying this repast with 
more pleasure than the finest entertainment they could be 
given at home. We wondered what the different members 
of our families would have said could they have had but a 
momentary glimpse of the scene. Certainly, no one dining 
with all the luxury known to civilisation could have enjoyed 
delicacies of the best market with more appreciation, or had 
a more delightful feast of reason and flow of soul, than had 
we in our primitive surroundings, talking so rapidly that 
one scarce could wait for the other to finish a sentence. 

The dinner ended, our host suggested that we must 
" do the town," adding that there could never be a more 
auspicious moment than the present, when we had four such 
splendid big protectors. So off we started. I was soon 

hailed by a fellow-passenger of the St. Paul, Mr. J , who 

called out, " Oh, Mrs. H , do come in a moment and see 

Mr. P ." — " No, thanks, I 'm standing on ceremony and 

sha'n't be able to, as Mr. P has not called on me." — 

" But he 's ill, poor fellow, and has been on his back for a 
fortnight at least." Down I rushed, and into one of the 

most luxurious cabins yet visited, where poor P was 

lying on a couch covered with the usual fur robe. One has 
such deep sympathy for these ' ' boys ' ' so far away from home, 
but not from friends, for such evidences of kindness on all 

sides could scarcely be equalled elsewhere. P seemed 

really glad to see me, but I could not remain long on account 
of the friends waiting outside. He promised to let me know 



Our First Dinner in Dawson 14 1 

if he required anything that could not be purchased in town. 
J then called out, " Do take a peep into my cabin oppo- 
site and see how comfortable it is. Look out for your head ' ' ; 
but low as that poor head was bent, it was not sufficiently so 

for the entrance. J had a most beautiful air-mattress, 

which he wished to sell for thirty-five dollars — very cheap 

for Dawson — but K and I have had all we want of such 

unsatisfactory couches, which are like bicycle tires, liable to 
be punctured at any time, or to let the air escape and leave 
one with aching bones in the morning. Again we started, 

and again we were stopped by another passenger, Mr. P 

of Virginia, and as we were anxious to learn his plans for 
invading the Koyukuk district there was another delay. 

We finally reached Main Street, which was as crowded 
and as light at ten o'clock as any fashionable promenade 
would have been at that hour in the daytime. At each 
corner we were stopped by greetings from former fellow- 
passengers, and, finally, by one of the men we had grub- 
staked, who said: " I 've been trying all day to reach West 
Dawson to see you on important business, but could get no 

boat. There is a big stampede to Creek. I 've been 

out there and located claims for you two ladies, and have 
done enough work to be certain that the ground is rich, so 
I 've come in to pack a lot o' grub back, and want all your 
orders in case you should leave before I git through pro- 
spectin'. Anyway, when you come back next year you may 
look for big returns from these mines, even if I don't get to 
stake another." The party waited patiently while we 
listened to these glowing accounts and then rejoined our 
escorts, quite excited over the brilliant prospect. Our host 
then proposed that as our beverage at dinner had been 
water, we should stop at the Hoffman House, which he was 
anxious to show us, for a liqueur. We were told that this 
house belonged to " Nigger Jim," who had established it in 
Dawson because he had not been able to purchase the hostelry 
of the same name in New York, which had delighted him 
more than anything he had seen during his travels. 

Filled with curiosity we entered, joined by Mr. M 's 



142 Two Women in the Klondike 

"big brother," as he calls him, to distinguish him from seven 
other fellows who bear the same relationship. We entered 
what would seem at home a small room, but which, here, is 
of unusually good size ; at the end was a stage where five 
musicians played Cavalleria Rusticana, as well as I have ever 
heard it, the violinist being particularly good. At a large 
table in the centre sat ' ' Nigger Jim ' ' (whom I have pre- 




"----•- "~ V T* : 



A DAWSON HOTEL. 



viously described, and who has the reputation of being " as 
clean and honest a white man as ever came into this camp"). 
He was surrounded by a dozen of his satellites, men and 
women, and was entertaining them in the grandest style 
known to Dawson. 

K and I being the "Chee Charkers " (otherwise known 

as strangers or people to be preyed upon by sharks with 
wildcat schemes) attracted general attention. We remained 
long enough to hear two songs from a man with an exceed- 



Our First Dinner in Dawson 143 

ingly fine voice, and then were invited to the Combination 
Company Theatre. Our party had grown to eight, so we 
felt sufficiently well protected to follow the custom of the 
country and enter the parquet through the barroom — a pro- 
ceeding so common here (in fact one has to wade through 
deep mud to reach the side entrance) that it caused no re- 
mark. We were then shown up a pair of stairs and told to 
take our choice of the unoccupied private boxes ; only four 
of our escorts could be comfortably accommodated, so we had 
two boxes, and the men continually changed places with one 
another. We could see and not be seen, protected as we 
were by the curtains. We looked down upon a sea of som- 
breros, not a woman in all the audience, as the boxes are re- 
served for them and their escorts. We were the only ones 
who sat with drawn curtains, consequently curiosity was 
rife. We were more amused by watching the occupants of 
the boxes than with the performance on the stage, which 
was of the usual variety order, not very refined, with plenty 
of coarse jokes, but nothing absolutely vulgar. The young 
lady from the first box left her escort and descended to the 
stage, and entertained us with a song of a poor little country 
maid on a visit to town, where the young men made to her 
many suggestions, to each one of which she sang, " Will it 
do me any harm ? " in the most innocent way. This so 
pleased the ' ' boys ' ' in the audience, that they threw an 
abundance of chips and nuggets on the stage, all of which 
she carefully picked up, and stowed away — in her stocking. 
A jealous actress in the next box said in a stage-whisper, 
" She 'd never get so much money for her voice; it 's all be- 
cause the ' boys ' like to watch her trick o' stowin' it away." 
Never before have we seen so many drinks served. Each 
man in a box is expected to order one each for the entire 
party ; one dollar apiece is the price, whether lemonade, or 

something stronger. In a short time K and I had had 

six glasses of lemonade carried away untasted. We heard 

M giving the waiter an order which he seemed reluctant 

to obey, but finally did as he was told and handed us chips. 
" What is this for?" said we. " For entertaining the 



144 Two Women in the Klondike 

gentlemen in the boxes," laughed our host, and then with a 
merry peal of laughter he explained that in this new theatre, 
also, the rule prevailed that if men ordered drinks the lady 
who inspired the order got a chip which she could afterwards 
' ' cash in. " The waiter, having formerly been in the employ 
of our host; whispered to him, " What shall I do with the 

chips ? "— " Give them to^the ladies."— " Oh, Mr. M , I 

would never dare to offer them to such ladies." Nor could 

he be persuaded to do so until M insisted upon our 

carrying away such souvenirs of the occasion. 

Shortly after, Mr. R and Dr. D appeared and in- 
sisted upon our gracing their box, to which request our host 
acceded. We were soon in a loge facing the stage, with two 
kerosene lamps between it and our view. After a short stay 
there, we were invited into another box, where " Nigger Jim " 
was introduced. On one thing he prides himself, that of 
never wearing a coat. He had on a beautiful silk London- 
made shirt, but a vest covered the greater part of it. As he 
leaned back against the wall, the " big brother " exclaimed, 
" Don't you spoil that shirt ; you promised to lend it to me 
for the ball to-morrow night." " Why did they give you 
that name ? " said I, as he seated himself on a three-cornered 
wooden stool at my side. " Just listen when he talks," said 
the " big brother," " and it won't take you long to dis- 
cover." He entertained me with a bit of his life in London, 
where, he said, all the men were bachelors, which saying of 
his is quoted all over Dawson. He was as courteous and as 
interesting as any man one could meet. On parting, he 
asked if he might come to church in the big tent on Sunday, 
and when I replied, " Shall be happy to see you then, if not 
before," he was so pleased that he forgot his society man- 
ners, and clapped me on the back, saying, "Good for you ! 
I 'm a-coming." The men all looked startled and anxious, 
as though they expected me to make a scene, but recognis- 
ing that the man had intended no rudeness, and had simply 
forgotten himself, I bade him good-evening, and left some 
of our friends to explain to him that he must be less forget- 
ful in future. 



146 Two Women in the Klondike 

We did not get away just then, as there were others who 
requested a visit, so we entered another box, where we re- 
ceived a hearty welcome, the seats of honour, and, of course, 
drinks. We listened to the mandolin-playing of one of the 
prettiest girls I have seen for an age. The men said : " You 
should encourage such a person as that ; beautiful as she is, 
she is about the only virtuous girl in Dawson ; let us send 
for her, that you may speak a few kindly words, which she 
will greatly appreciate. Besides, you won't have seen this 
show nor be able to write it up unless you have an interview 
with Adele." Adele was sent for, and talked and behaved 
most modestly ; but when the drinks arrived she made a 
dash for the chips before they could be handed to us, besides 
stealing some extra ones from the waiter, who begged her to 
return them so that he would not be obliged to make them 
good ; but this thrifty young person had them tightly tied 
up in her handkerchief and no amount of persuasion or 
argument could induce her to return one. The men excused 
her by saying, " She knows that you only want to show 
them as souvenirs in New York, and one is sufficient for that, 
while to her they represent so much cash. ' ' 

The show over, the benches were quickly taken out and 
the hall cleared for a dance. We remained to look down 
upon a waltz and a quadrille, which were eminently proper 
in every respect. The men told us that this would last until 
five or six in the morning and that, notwithstanding the 
drinks which would follow each dance, it would be no more 
noisy at the termination than in the beginning of the even- 
ing. We had instructed Isaacs to wait for us at the Alaska 
Commercial Company's wharf, but saw him among the 
dancers. Just as we were pointing him out, so that one of 
our escorts might go and fetch him, " Nigger Jim " appeared 
and said, " What ! you don't mean to say that 's your cook ! 
Why, he 's the grave-robber," and then told us such blood- 
curdling stories of incidents in his career that we were filled 
with dread, and glad when we reached the landing-place to 
find that he had not materialised, also delighted to accept 
the offer of M and R to row us across in a Peterboro" 



Our First Dinner in Dawson 147 

canoe, although I had solemnly sworn never on any account 
to put foot in a canoe. Seated, however, in the very bottom 
of -it on the coats of the men who rowed us, all alarm faded 
away, even when we were in the midst of the powerful 
current. 

We found our tent almost collapsed from wind and rain, 
but it is always easy to find a dry place, owing to its enor- 
mous size ; still, it is aggravating in the extreme to look at 
the Catholic church tent opposite, tight as a drum and beau- 
tifully put up, and compare it with the one put up by a so- 
called first-class workman at fifteen dollars a day. The 
tent-maker had written most elaborate and detailed in- 
structions, so that even in the Yukon he might be proud of 
his work, and begged us to have it so well arranged as to do 
him credit. But here it stands waving, swaying, swelling, 
dropping with the different light winds which take it in 
charge, looking a most slovenly affair, and criticised by 
people on both sides of the river. We have been in it a 
whole week now, and the man who put it up, though sent for 
many times, has not had pride enough, or a sufficiently keen 
sense of honour to come to our rescue ; so we emptied again 
the jelly-bags of water and " turned in." Just as we had 
fallen asleep, we heard a voice outside the tent saying, 
" I 've come to explain." — " All right, Isaacs, you may ex- 
plain in the morning." — " But I was at the wharf on time 
only to find that someone had borrowed our boat and have 
been searching for it ever since." — " Very well, good-night ; 
you may go to your tent, and need not come early in the 
morning, as it is now very late." — " All right, mum, good- 
night." There were so many slack places in the canvas 
around and above us that the air came in on all sides and 
we nearly froze to death, although we were covered with as 
many wraps as we could bear the weight of. The extremes 
are very great. An icy coldness during the night and in- 
tense heat about the noon hour, so powerful are the rays 
of the sun, and yet we are told that one never takes cold 
here. 



148 Two Women in the Klondike 

Thursday, August 4th. 

Nine o'clock and no Isaacs ; ten, ditto ; at half-past ten lie 
made his appearance and when he found us already at break- 
fast said, " Why, I thought you ladies wanted to sleep late, 
and so I did n't dare to come before." Scarcely had we 

finished when Mrs. B and Mr. T came to spend the 

morning, and laughed most heartily over our experiences of 

the previous evening. Mrs. B said, " That is just such 

a trip as I ought to take for my newspaper work, but, being 
alone, never have had the courage to do so : you must let me 
go with you should you ever do the town again." We faith- 
fully promised, although not expecting to repeat the expedi- 
tion ; at least, not more than once before our departure, and 
not even then, unless there should be something new and 
particularly worthy of record. When we told triumphantly 
about the checks we had received our guests looked at each 
other and Mr. T said, " I see you ladies do not recog- 
nise the meaning of many things, and treat all experiences 
in this part of the world as a huge joke ; be careful that this 
be not misinterpreted, as those you meet may not understand 
you as we do." While deeply appreciating this kindly ad- 
vice, we felt, however, quite certain that no action of ours 
could be misinterpreted. 

As Isaacs left the tent on an errand, Mr. T observed, 

" You did not get your man Friday very early this morning, 
and might have had him an hour later still, had it not been 
for the fact that when I heard him shout from his tent (which 
adjoins mine), at eight o'clock to know the time, again at 
nine, and again at ten, each time rolling over for another 
snooze, I called out to one of my neighbours, " I hear the 
ladies in the big tent are looking for another cook." There 
was a great scrambling, and, instantly after, the head of 
your major-domo appeared, saying, ' What 's that about the 
big tent?' ' Oh, nothing,' I carelessly replied; but the 

effect was that desired." After luncheon M appeared. 

" Well, I heard about you last night," said he. " What ? " 
— " Oh, that you were invited to occupy every box in 
the Combination Company." Shortly after came another 



150 Two Women in the Klondike 

guest, saying, " What a sensation you two ladies made last 
night; can't help it if you were behind curtains all the time. 
Every nice man in the house wanted to be introduced, as 
they had n't seen so much style since leaving home ten 
years ago." 

After dinner M and Dr. C rowed across the river 

to spend the evening with us. Reminiscences of Bar Har- 
bour were first indulged in, and Dr. C asked if I had met 

his mother there during the summer of 1896 ? He knew so 

many of our friends, and M told us such a number of 

interesting tales of life in Alaska, that our closing hour, 
eleven o'clock, came all too soon. As they were about to 
leave, the pigeons flocked into the tent, and we all tried to 

catch them and get them out to the cote. M 's face fell, 

as he stood guiltily before us with the tail of a pigeon in his 
hand. ' ' How could I help it ? " said he ; " she flew away 

from her tail." In the afternoon Mrs. B took us to the 

comfortable little cabin which the " boys " had built for her, 
showed us most interesting souvenirs of her voyages, and 
read us from the Klondike Nugget the description of her 
house-warming. 




CHAPTER XVI 

WE BECOME ' ' FREE MINERS ' ' 

Friday, August 5th. 

AS the tent flap was turned back this morning to admit 
the sunlight, for which we have never before been 
sufficiently grateful, the " sick boy " appeared to renew his 
thanks for our kindness and to return the dishes and steamer 
chair. His gratitude was so much greater than the little we 
had been able to do for him warranted, that we protested 
against further thanks, made him rest, and tried to persuade 
him not to row over to town until his health was fully re- 
established ; but our advice was as useless as it generally is 
when man has determined upon a plan. Immediately after 
the departure of John Jones, otherwise the " sick boy," 
Mr. S arrived. This most picturesque-looking Vir- 
ginian, whom Mrs. B calls with a smile, " too lazy for 

words," said that he expected to go on a stampede in the 
evening — a real one — not, as he had done on several occa- 
sions, make a pretended start, with such hustle and bustle 
that all the boys in town followed in his footsteps, to be left 
in the lurch, but a quiet, secret affair. As he said au revoir, 
however, he remarked that he might back out at the last 
moment, unless he got fine news from his partner. An In- 
dian next appeared in the doorway, and is the only person 
whom we have not greeted pleasantly since our arrival ; but 
our fear of the tribe is so great that we sent Ivan to lie across 
the doorway, but this had no effect upon the noble red man, 
who continued to gaze until he had fully satisfied his 
curiosity. 

151 



15 2 Two Women in the Klondike 

Then came from across the river Dr. D , to tell us that 

he was soon to leave for the Koyukuk ; of his brilliant pro- 
spects ; the congenial society in the party, and to beg us to 
call on his wife on our return, and give her details which no 
letter can supply. Another visit from Mrs. B , who ex- 
pressed much astonishment that we should have been in- 
hospitable to so good a member of the tribe as the Indian 
who had recently honoured us. She told us of the country 
about the Tanana, for which she is soon to depart, where 
there are said to be cannibals, and that there is a reward of 
forty thousand dollars for anyone who penetrates the region, 
as some of our worst criminals are in hiding there. She has 
been offered the assistance and escort of the marshal or police 
representatives, but considers that would be but an impedi- 
ment, as she can do much better work alone. The only 
thing she dreads is being deserted in an unknown country 
by her guides, but she added, ' ' I can feel instinctively when 
they are afraid to go farther, and when there is no doubt of 
their intention, if I can get the drop on them first, I should 
not hesitate to kill them and feed them to my dogs. ' ' We 
requested her to tell the Doctor of her trip through the 
rapids, when her guide shouted to her, " Paddle for your 
life; there 's only a sixteenth of an inch between us and 
h ." 

At two o'clock Mrs. B took us over to Dawson to pur- 
chase a miner's certificate. Mr. T very kindly placed 

himself and boat at our disposal, and we called upon Isaacs 
to help paddle and carry our parcels. A Peterboro' canoe, 
which I had vowed never to enter, now seems most enjoy- 
able, although I do not dare to use the seats, feeling much 

safer in the bottom of the boat. Dr. C met us at the 

landing and accompanied us to interview the man who 
put up the tent. He seemed horrified to know of all the 
trouble and anxiety we had undergone, and said that no 
message had ever been given him until the previous day, 
when he had immediately promised to rectify the matter ; 
would leave his work then and there, find his partner, and 
attend to it, even should it take all night. From there we 




We Become " Free Miners " 153 

went to the other end of town, where we took out a miner's 
certificate at ten dollars, which read as follows : 

Date of issue. No. 23 , 109 . 



Dominion of Canada, 

Free Miner's Certificate 

** y 

Place of issue Dawson. Non-transferable. Valid for one year only. 

This is TO certify that Mary E. Hitchcock of Dawson 
has paid me this day the sum of ten dollars and is entitled 
to all the rights and privileges of a Free Miner under any 
Mining Regulations of the Government of Canada for one 
year from the 5th day of August, 1898. This certificate 
shall also grant to the holder thereof the privilege of Fishing 
and Shooting, subject to the provisions of any Act which has 
been passed or which may hereafter be passed for the pro- 
tection of game and fish ; also the privilege of cutting Timber 
for actual necessities, for building houses, boats, and for gen- 
eral mining operations ; such timber, however, to be for the 
exclusive use of the miner himself, but such permission shall 
not extend to timber which may have been heretofore, or 
which may hereafter be granted to other persons or corpor- 
ations. 

Countersigned, Thomas Fawcett. 

To be countersigned by the Gold Commissioner, Mining 
Recorder, or by an Officer or Agent of the Department of the 
Interior. 

Jas. A. Smart, 
Deputy of the Minister of the Interior. 

While waiting for the certificate the following notice pasted 
on the wall attracted our attention : 



154 Two Women in the Klondike 

MINING RECORDER'S OFFICE, 

Dawson, June 14. — 98 

Notice 

Know all mens by this present. ... I am interested 
in one half of the claim No. 32 thirty- two below low dis- 
covery on Dominion. 

I do not accept, no bargain, no compromission of my half 
undivided interest. 

JOSI} DAROI.E. 

Mrs. B introduced us to the two young ladies in 

the office of the commissioners, who told us how much we 
had missed by not attending the church festival of the pre- 
vious evening. Mr. F- , who was holding court, left 

long enough to come down-stairs and be presented to us as 
the widow of Admiral ( !) H and the grandniece of Presi- 
dent Van B . The i nterview was pleasant, though exceed- 
ing short, as the court was waiting. From there we went to 

the office of Mr. W , the Crown Timber Agent, as Mrs. 

B thought it very important that we should know and 

be properly introduced to the officials before starting on our 
claim hunting. Our next visit was to our Consul, on official 

business. There we were joined by Mr. R and Dr. 

D , and the Consul opened a bottle of " sherry," which 

we had to drink from tin cups. As he offered me water for 
the " sherry," my suspicions were aroused and I tasted it 
warily, only to find it was old Bourbon, which I politely but 
firmly declined. 

We did a little shopping at the Alaska Commercial Com- 
pany's warehouse, which is headquarters for everyone in 
town, where we chatted with a dozen or more acquaintances. 
On going out we saw the utter collapse of our tent. Dr. 

C at once offered to row E across the Yukon, Isaacs 

assisting, while I went on with Mrs. B to keep an ap- 
pointment with one of the Sisters at the hospital, stopping to 
inquire for the mail, which arrived yesterday, (Thursday), 
but which will not be ready for distribution before Monday ! 
The reception-room of the hospital is the most comfortable, 



We Become " Free Miners " 



i55 




homelike spot yet visited, with its stove, carpet, curtains, 

desk, and real chairs. Father greeted us most cordially, 

and sent for Sister , who had been at St. Josephs, in 

Victoria, B. C, and who gave me pleasant news from the 
dear Sisters there. 

At the wharf we 
found Isaacs, but no 
boat ; someone had bor- 
rowed it, and there was 
none for us to hire. 
After applying to a 
young man in a fine- 
looking Peterboro' and 
being courteously but 
decidedly refused on the 
ground that the boat 
belonged to an official, 

Mrs. B asked as 

one having Masonic 
rights, and before we 
had time to breathe the 
boat was ours. On 
reaching the other side, 
what a sight met our 
gaze ! I felt as one 
who had been evicted 
for non-payment of 
rent. Our tent was 
flat on the ground, our 
furniture and house- 
hold goods, books, magazines, music, even my beloved 
diary, were scattered all over the ground, while the two car- 
penters, aided by our kindly neighbours, were pulling at the 
tent, ropes, and tackle with all their force. Having break- 
fasted at ten or later, we had gone to town without luncheon, 
consequently were in a starving condition. Our neighbours 
invited us to partake of their hospitality, but as each one 
has a limited supply of provisions, we felt some delicacy 




INDIAN WOMAN OF THE KLONDIKE. 



156 Two Women in the Klondike 

about accepting, and said that our tent would be ready in a 

few moments. Mrs. B proposed that while waiting we 

should walk over to Sheep Camp to have a look at some fur 
robes which were offered for sale, — one at one hundred dol- 
lars, the other at eighty-five dollars, — as the man who had 
them was " going out," and had never used them. This 
necessitated a tramp to a point farther than I had ever ex- 
plored on our " island," along the edge of the water. We 
passed dozens of tents from which we received kindly salu- 
tations, reached the small chicken farm, and beyond that a 
place where cattle had been killed ; making a detour we ap- 
proached a good-sized pen filled with sheep. Still on, pass- 
ing an occasional cabin, until we entered a clearing in which 
were comfortable quarters. 

In the open air, at a rough table, partaking of their even- 
ing meal, sat three men in shirt-sleeves. They rose as we 
approached and cordially welcomed Mrs. B , who intro- 
duced me as the owner of the big tent, a globe-trotter who 
had been many times around the world, and was now in 
search of new experiences. ' ' I hardly suppose so grand a 
lady would condescend to take supper with rough butchers, ' * 
said the spokesman ; " but it would be a great pleasure.'* 
" Condescend ! why, I 'm simply starving ; my tent 's down r 
so I can get nothing to eat for an hour at least, and if you. 
had not invited me, I should have asked myself, or have 
stolen something that smells so good." This little speech 
so pleased the miners, that they gave me the best seat on the 
bench. One helped me to salmon, another to bread, and the 
third to fried potatoes filled with onions, and though the 
latter have always been avoided by me they were now eaten 
with hearty relish, and never was a meal more thoroughly 
enjoyed. The men apologised again and again for having 
no butter, and offered to cook us a bit of moose-steak ; they 
could hardly understand that we preferred finding them and 
their meal just as we did. We asked for a leg of mutton and 
some brains, which latter cost one dollar apiece, but they 
were not able to fill our order until next week. They in- 
sisted, however, on our taking as a small souvenir a package 



We Become "Free Miners" 157 

of sheep's tongues and a couple of brains each. Then we 
asked to see the fur robes, but the lowest price for me was 
two hundred and fifty dollars for the two, a beautiful lynx 

robe and a wolf robe. " Why should you ask Mrs. B 

one hundred and eighty-five dollars and me two hundred and 

fifty dollars ? ' ' queried I. ' ' We told Mrs. B that we paid 

one hundred dollars for one and eighty-five dollars for the 
other, and she did not add to that freight at twelve cents a 
pound, and the profit that one naturally expects from such 
an investment," said the honest butcher. " I can sell the 
lynx to-morrow for two hundred dollars, and in the winter it 
will bring three hundred dollars, but I don't care to keep 
and bother with them, as I 'm ' going out.' " After much 
argument, as he was unwilling to deduct one iota from his 

price, he agreed to bring them over for B 's inspection, 

which would give me an opportunity for consulting the fur 
experts who were raising our tent. On our return our 
friends carefully examined the robes, thought one particu- 
larly fine, but advised us to see first what we could do in 
town, so my friends the butchers offered to leave them with 
us until we had tried them and examined others. Now I 
know why they are so highly recommended for use here, as 
never have I had anything so perfect in which to sleep ; no 
shivering, no icy, penetrating wind, no fear of rheumatic 
pains. To roll up in a lynxskin makes the couch soft and 
downy, and keeps one so warm and " comfy," that it seems 
like being once more among home luxuries. 

10 p.m., and everyone is still working at this mammoth 

tent. Our neighbour, Mrs. T , insisted upon K 's 

sharing her supper with her, and invited me also so 
cordially that to accept a bit of nice hot buttered toast 

was the least I could do, while Mrs. B exclaimed, 

" I 'm jealous, as you refused to dine with me." The 
pigeons are causing the greatest amount of trouble. Al- 
though the cote is filled with seed, the bag of grain and 
water on top of their boxes, and everything arranged to 
tempt them, nothing will induce them to leave the tent ; 
they were driven out of it only to reappear on the top, and 



158 Two Women in the Klondike 

there they sat clinging to the ridge, refusing to fly. As the 
tent was lifted and lowered, they were off one moment to be 
back the next, and, finally, as it was gradually tightened 
into place, and someone stood at the door to keep them away 
while the furniture was being brought in, down they came 
through the small hole through which the poles pass, light- 
ing on everything — beds, blankets, music-box, even on the 
stove. A few were caught and held prisoners in the cote by 
a curtain which was tacked up, but the others fought hard 
to remain, and remain they did, much to our disgust, as they 
are now so tame that they light on the bed in the morning 
to beg for food. 

Such a scene of destruction ! — the shelves down, kitchen 
utensils on the ground, ribbons, ties, toilet-articles, no end 
of small things trampled under foot, and our beautiful tent 
badly torn in two places ! To say that we were discouraged 
puts it very mildly, particularly after being told that to make 
the tent perfect, and so that it would not leak, we should be 
obliged to purchase, or have made, tackle and rings, and have 
the entire thing dropped again with the same moving out of 
furniture. As we expect to " go out " in about three weeks, 
we decided to accept the situation and get along as best we 
can. Some of our hard-working assistants remained to par- 
take of a little beef-soup, a bit of salmon, some potatoes, and 
cake. 

Saturday, August 6th. 

Trying to make order out of havoc is an unpleasant task 
with the mercury at 8o°, but we close tightly our tent flap, 
so that those whom we should otherwise be glad to see may 
think us still in the arms of Morpheus, and work with a will. 
Isaacs, busily engaged in once more putting up kitchen 
shelves and utensils, looks for newspapers with which to cover 
them. Holding out one he asks, " 'Ave you read this, 
mum?" and then exclaims, " 'Oly Moses, May 30th ! 'ave 
you been on the road ever since then ? Well " (sympatheti- 
cally), " I should think you would be tired." " May we 
come in ? " said the voice of John Jones, ' ' I want to make 
you acquainted with Mr. M ," and one of the great men 



160 Two Women in the Klondike 

of the Klondike entered, was made welcome, and remained 
for an hour or more, telling stories so interesting that we 
deeply regretted when it was time for him to take his de- 
parture. John Jones said, ' ' I was tellin' Mr. M as how 

you ladies was so very kind to me whiles I was ill, and as how 
you wanted to see a * clean-up,' and pan some gold your- 
self ; so he is going Monday to one of his mines and has come 
to invite you to go with him." — " Just what we Ve longed 
to do, but we never expected to have so fine an opportunity. 
Please explain the road, however, so that we may judge 
whether we are capable of such an undertaking. ' ' 

" My plan is to start Monday between noon and four 

o'clock," said M , " go over the trail two miles to the 

ferry, cross the Klondike River, and land at the mouth of 

Bonanza ; there Miss V may take a horse, and if you can 

walk three miles an hour that will be a sufficiently rapid 
gait ; after twelve miles we reach the Grand Forks Hotel, 
Bonanza. You will find it very rough ; the men are only 
screened off from the ladies, but you can rest assured that 
every man would defend you with his life in case of need." 
" Oh, I intend to take my tent along for the ladies," said 
John, " it 's just big enough for the two of them and they '11 
be much more comfortable than shut i n wi th us men. " * ' The 

next morning," continued M , " we '11 take a short walk 

before breakfast down to some mines very near there and see 
a clean-up, and you can pan out your first gold ; later in the 

day we '11 go to B 's clean-up, from there to my claim at 

El Dorado, only three miles ; then to another claim of mine 
at El Dorado, which yields pretty good-sized nuggets. You 
know ten claims make a mile, so you can easily tell how 
much you will have to walk there ; there are some bench 
claims near that have not been located, so that you and Miss 

V can stake them (now that you have your miner's 

licence), and return to the Forks that night, unless you care 
to go on and stake on Dominion and Sulphur." We were 
filled with delight and excitement at the prospect, particu- 
larly as the rain had prevented us from going on the first 
stampede, not that we minded the rain, but it made the 



We Become " Free Miners" 161 

ground in such a condition that told us his horse sank 

to its neck in mud. 

On E 's return from Dawson she said that someone 

"had told her he had seen many letters for us, but that it 
would be impossible to get them for several days, as we must 

wait until everything had been sorted. Mr. T made 

us a short visit to inquire if our tent were in a satisfactory 

condition ; then came Mr. J , bringing us a wood-stove, 

saying that we really ought to have it, even if we were 
obliged to cut a hole in the tent for a stove-pipe. 

" Well, how 's the tent to-day ? " called out the man who 
was doing his best to make a bad job good. " Me and my 
partner came over to give it another stretch." " Why, I 

saw you going over the Rapids," said Mrs. B to the 

partner ; " how soon did you get over ? " " Oh, I had a 
hard time and many experiences," replied he. " The first 
night, as I was tramping an' it was kinder dark, a man riz up 
from behind a pile o' logs and had the drop on me, but, after 
he 'd talked with me and found out how honest I was, he 
put down his gun and tole me he was a-layin' for a man 
what had broken into three different caches and stole a lot o' 
stuff, an' says he, ' I 'd give twenty-five dollars to get the 
stuff back, an' another twenty-five on top o' that to get a 
licence to shoot him, an' as I can't get it I 'm goin' to shoot 
him anyhow.' Yes, marm, I 'm a Canadian, an' I ain't 
proud of it when I sees the taxes for every durned thing 
they 're a-puttin' on poor miners what works for a livin' in 
a country very few of the officials would go to, and risk git- 
tin' frozen feet, legs, and arms, or being frozen to death ; 
then I tell you, marm, I 'm ashamed o' bein' a Canadian, 
but I must get on with my job. Ladies, we 're a-goin' to 
keep this tent tight if we have to stretch it every night in 
the week, an' it sha'n't cost you a penny besides the original 
price agreed upon, cause we want it right, an' it would 'a' 
"been right if that there secretary, or whatever he is, of yours 
had given us the instructions an' told us to go by them, just 
as you wanted us to do ; but now he 's lost the instructions 
and we 've got to do the best we can." 



1 62 Two Women in the Klondike 

Ivan and I went for a short walk on " our island " after a 
nine o'clock dinner. The first thing which attracted my 
attention was a notice tacked on the dove-cote that had been 
placed there by the Rev. Dr. D : 

" Presbyterian Church. 

" Sunday service in the large tent at n a.m. 

" Everyone cordially invited." 

Our walk was a short one. As we reached the spring,, 
which prevented me from crossing, and which is the bound- 
ary line, Mr. T called out, " Were you looking for me ? 

This is my tent, the first one on this side of the spring. All- 
right, if I can be of no service to you I '11 go in and cook my 
supper." Two miners hailed me from another tent with,. 
" Excuse me, marm, but must we dress up to come- 
to church to-morrow ? If so, we shall not be able to at- 
tend service, 'cause our dress suits are in our other trunk." 
We all laughed at the joke, as few have trunks, and they 
seemed relieved to hear, " We are all to attend in our jerseys- 

— no boiled shirts or collars." Mrs. T then came to the 

door of her tent saying, " I hear you are going with M 

and Jones to locate claims and see some clean-ups ; they 

took Mrs. H and me last time ; it is the most wonderful 

experience imaginable, and we enjoyed it so much that I 'm 
wild to go again. People at home could never understand 
the wonders of it. " 

Just then we were joined by Mr. O , who presented a 

Mr. H , and another Klondike millionaire stood before 

us, with a dazzling diamond on his shirt-front, and another 
of enormous size on his finger. After a few moments' chat, 

Mrs. B called out that she was coming to pay us another 

visit, and so I returned. " It 's a pity to bore you so often," 
said she, " but I feel so lonely and homesick to-day that I 
can't stay by myself, and thought perhaps you 'd give me a 
little music. Seeing you and talking of home has quite un- 
nerved me. I don't mind when I 'm among the Apaches — 
then I enjoy their wild life, and forget homesickness 



>> 



We Become Free Miners 163 

" May we come in ? " said Mr. O , entering with Mr. 

H , the Dane. " You are just in time to help us select 

the airs to be played for church service to-morrow. It is too 
dark to read this fine writing, so we must try them all. The 
committee listened, selecting The Lost Chord, Nearer My 

God to Thee, and Portuguese Hymn, but Mr. H was ruled 

out as he pleaded for Strauss's Blue Danube. He told us that 
he left Denmark many years ago and never has had a home- 
sick day ; but he expects to "go out" this year. After 

they left, Mrs. B remained until midnight, and as the 

moon's rays came through the open door of the tent and 
we listened to her thrilling experiences, time was forgotten, 
also the cold chills of night, as we wondered at the daring 
courage of one lone woman. 

I forgot to say that early in the evening one of my butcher 
friends arrived bringing me a small leg of mutton, for which 
he asked the modest sum of eight dollars. This is probably 
not very high for Klondike prices. On seeing a mirror he 
exclaimed, ' ' Oh, do let me look in that. I have n't seen one 
for years." After a long glance, he said with a sigh, " As 
ugly as ever ! My own wife would n't know me with this 
beard." 

Sunday, August 7th. 

When Isaacs arrived this morning, he brought us the news 
that many of the ' ' boys ' ' wanted to come to service but did 
not dare — lest they should meet some of our " city friends " 
in store clothes, so we instructed him to make the rounds 
and say that all had been requested to wear jerseys, women 
as well as men. Shortly after we heard, to our horror, the 
loud ringing of a cow-bell, and a voice crying " Church, 
church — no collection and no dress-up. Mind and don't be 
late ; service in half an hour. No collection." It was too 
late to stop our zealous assistant, who returned with the bell 
behind his back and slipped in the back door. We threw 
our shawls and robes on the grass, and placed the three 
steamer-chairs, some empty boxes, and a few benches made 
by our Jack-of-all-trades. The British and American flags 



164 Two Women in the Klondike 

were draped back of the pulpit, which consisted of a pine 
table and a bench made from a box. This was decorated 
with some yards of mosquito- netting loaned by a neighbour. 

We placed a Bible on the stand and Mrs. B supplied a big 

tin basin of flowers. Facing the pulpit we had an old screen 
and, as that was not large enough to hide the kitchen and 
sleeping apartments from view, Isaacs strung a rope across 
on which we draped thirty yards of cheese-cloth which we 
had brought for other purposes. To this drapery we pinned 
pictures of Dewey, Sampson, Sigsbee, and General Lee; also 
photographs of dear ones at home. 

First came the Rev. Dr. D , with two men and a large 

package of hymn-books. Then the miners, many with noble 
faces, began to arrive, throwing themselves about on the 

grass in all-unconscious picturesqueness. Mrs. T and 

Mrs. B were the only other women present at the open- 
ing, which was as solemn as it could have been in the 
grandest church in the land. My seat was a box placed 
close to the screen so that I could slip behind and start the 
music at a sign from the clergyman. We began with the 
orchestral cylinder Prayer from Moses. The entire service 
was most inspiring, and the sermon good and earnest. As 
the clergyman, who evidently put all his heart and soul 
into his work, spoke of being " Nearer my God to Thee," 
the orchestra's solemn strains were heard and after that the 
hymn was taken up by the chorus of miners and those who 

had come late — Mr. and Mrs. C and Miss C , Mr. 

and Mrs. D , Mr. M , Mr. R , and Dr. C , 

who had all rowed across from Dawson. As they sang, the 
miners, who had not the courage to enter, stood outside the 
door with bowed heads. Only one unfortunate mistake oc- 
curred ; as Dr. D was reading a chapter about Joseph 

and his coat of many colours, a pigeon perched on the music- 
box of the Criterion and started once more Nearer my God to 
Thee. There was no stopping the hymn until the end, but 
there was not a smile, and it was listened to with as dignified 
attention as though it had occurred in the right place. At 
the close, Dr. D- — spoke of the ladies who had so kindly 



We Become Free Miners 165 

loaned their tent, and said that he would be more than glad 
to officiate regularly in case they would extend the same 
hospitality in future. Those who would attend were asked 
to raise their hands, and all hands were immediately high in 
air. After the service, one of the miners said to me, " Beg 
your pardon, madam, but by what mission are you sent out ? ' ' 

Mr. O remained to lunch, and then rowed K 

over to town. " I see no bell ; is anyone at home ? " asked 

Mr. S , of the Alaska Commercial Company, as he handed 

out a budget of letters from home. ' ' Was at the Post-office, 
saw these, and asked if I might take them out, as otherwise 
you would not have had them for several days." We ap- 
preciated his kindness all the more when we discovered that 
he had been obliged to hire a boat in order to render us this 
service. 

We gave our first dinner, and this is what we read of it in 
the Klondike Nugget, almost before the entertainment came 
to an end. 

A DINNER TO THE CONSUL-GENERAL 

" Mrs. Admiral (!) H and Miss V , the two dis- 
tinguished ladies who are ' taking in ' the Klondike just as 
they have taken in Paris and L,ondon, gave a select dinner 

in honour of the United States Consul-General M , now 

stationed at Dawson. The ladies are in camp over at Daw- 
son, and the dinner was given in what was probably the 
largest tent canvas in the Klondike. The gentlemen invited 

to the affair were Dr. D , Messrs. A , M , W , 

and R . Mrs. B , the popular scientific lady stationed 

for the winter at West Dawson, aided the two hostesses in 
entertaining the guests of the evening. The ladies carry 
their own chef and the repast was much enjoyed. After 

dinner the party adjourned to the new cabin of Mrs. B , 

and it was there that the late reports from the scene of war 
were received. The party immediately devoted themselves 
to adoration of ' Old Glory, ' and the cheers were enough to 
alarm that peaceful neighbourhood." 



166 Two Women in the Klondike 

Under ordinary circumstances it would be bad form for a 
hostess to give her menu or to refer to the food presented to 
guests, but I really must state how well we lived in that 
corner of the world where so many are supposed to be 
starving. 

i st. Anchovy on soda-biscuit. 

2nd. Mock-turtle soup. 

3rd. Roast moose and potato-balls. 

4th. Bscalloped tomatoes, prepared so deliciously by E 

that each one asked for a second helping. 

5th. Asparagus salad, for which I made the French 
dressing. 

6th. Peach ice-cream, and " tho' I do say it as should n't," 
for I made it, it was so good that all were helped twice and 
some thrice. 

7th. A very delicious cake made by Isaacs. 

8th. K 's French drip coffee — and all washed down by 

sparkling Moselle. After dinner we adjourned to Mrs. 

B -'s cabin, where we sat on her home-made divan, on 

benches, and on flour-bags, and told stories until nearly 
midnight. 




h@ 




CHAPTER XVII 

VISITING MINKS WITH A KLONDIKE KING 

Monday, August 8th. 

JOHN JONES came after breakfast to tell us what to 
pack. After he had taken his departure, Isaacs said, 
" I hope you 're going to take me with you, marm, to do 
the cooking and for to carry the. pack, as I don't think 
you '11 care for what you '11 get to eat along the trail, and I 
can carry from sixty to a hundred pounds. Besides, I 'd 

like to stake some claims, too, for when A M tells 

you where to stake, you 're sure to make your pile. That 's 
a mighty fine man for you to know. He 's got fifty millions, 
and knows more about mining than any man in this country. 
I 've known him all my life just as well as I 've known that 

parson that Mrs. B brought to call on you ; and yet I 

can't go up and speak to them because you ladies seem to 
think that I ought to stay in the kitchen instead o' coming 
in and talking to the visitors that I know. Holy Moses ! 
you don't realise how embarrassing it is for me only to be 
able to speak to them on ' the outside.' You see as 'ow 
I 've never done anything menial before, and don't quite 
hunderstand what 's expected of me, and what 's not, and 
when Isaacs sees these neighbours o' yours as 'e 's known 
all 'is life a-sittin' in your easy chairs an' a-playin' the 
grand gentlemen, an' 'e who 's as good as they, an' perhaps 
"better, a-standin' hout be'ind the kitchen stove, while 
they 're a-puttin' on hairs in the parlor — well ! 't ain't 
natural, and it 's enough to drive any fellow mad ! Now 
don't you bother about putting things to rights, and pre- 

167 



1 68 Two Women in the Klondike 

paring anything else for this hexcursion ; it '11 give me 
pleasure if you '11 just sit down and go on with your writin* 
an' leave everything to me, an' not look up for 'alf an hour, 
an' then you '11 be surprised to find out what an 'andy 
fellow Isaacs is, an' Isaacs won't interrupt you again, be- 
cause 'e knows you don't like to 'ear conversation when 
you 're a-writin'." Five minutes later. " I often thinks 
that there 's a great deal in inheritance," continued the 
irrepressible. " Now me mother was very tasty, an' me 
father was an R.A., that means member o' the Royal 
Hacademy, an' as for me, why I just rose from shop-boy 
to window-dresser because I had so much taste, ' ' and Isaacs 
fastened a picture here and put a decoration there on the 
screens about the tent. ' ' Yer like to lost me yesterday, 
Missus ; yer see, while I was on the other side, in Dawson, 
I sees an Indian in 'is birch canoe, so says I to myself, ' Now 
Isaacs, 'ere 's your chance ; yer likely to get in a tight 
place some o' these days, when yer '11 want ter know 'ow to 
manage a birch-bark canoe ; because it 's like riding a 
bicycle, yer know, marm, it do take a long while to learn 
how to balance yourself, so I got the Hindian to let me try 
it, and, by Jove! I did it without any trouble or helse you 
would n't 'a' 'ad the good fortune to 'a' got your Hisaacs 
back.'" 

We lunched hurriedly, after which the neighbours came 
to inquire what they could do for our pets during our ab- 
sence. Mrs. T kindly offered to care for them, and to 

take charge of the tent. Jones had a boat in waiting at the 
foot of the bank. Isaacs carried the pack, consisting of fur 
robes, blankets, flannel wrappers, and toilet articles. We 
were soon across the Yukon, where we were met by " Big 

A ." K went to purchase a cowboy hat for the 

trip, and Isaacs a harness for his back, so we appointed the 
usual place of rendezvous, the Alaska Commercial Com- 
pany's stores, from which point we were to be ready for the 
start in half an hour. Many of our friends were there to 

help E on to the horse and to see the start. " No horse 

for me," said I; "walking is far more enjoyable." So 



i7° Two Women in the Klondike 



rode alone in her glory, while M- 



, Jones, and I 

tramped by the side of the horse when the road was suffi- 
ciently wide, or single file, with Isaacs in harness bringing 
up the rear. At first, it was a gradual ascent on a good 
road ; we were soon high on the hills back of Dawson, and 
were astonished to see so many log houses, while many more 
were being built. After a long tramp, we reached a bridge 




CROSSING THE FERRY. 

of logs. B 's horse forded the stream, while I clung 

tightly to the hands of M and Jones, who assisted me in 

maintaining my balance, as the logs threatened to turn at 
each step. Then we paid one dollar each to cross in a scow 

on which even E 's horse was carried. We stopped a 

moment on reaching the other side to photograph a tavern, 
and were then off on a corduroy road which the miners had 
made, winding round beautiful mountains, looking down 
upon gorgeous scenery, over stones, through springy moss, 



Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 171 

then over more log bridges, deep bogs, precipices, until we 
reached Half-way House, eight miles, where we had supper 
of roast moose, mashed potatoes, corn, cabbage, delicious 
bread and butter, Spanish and apple-pie. 

The meal finished, Mr. A , of Chicago, and Mr. 

were presented to us. They were also on their way to stake 
claims, but concluded that they had done enough for one 
day and so pitched their tents. How proud we were to be 
able to outdo them as we continued our tramp. We next 

met a Mr. C , who had just found some rich ground 

while prospecting, and told us where to stake ; he also 
showed us a large piece of rock filled with gold, which he 
had taken from a mine near the Forks, and from which the 
owners were getting a thousand dollars a day, but being 
* ' Chee Charkers ' ' (newcomers) and homesick, they wanted 
to " go out " and would sell for thirteen thousand dollars. 
He had n't the money, but if anyone would " put it up" 
and let him take charge, he was sure that he could soon dig 
out a fortune for " all hands." A man from Illinois next 
joined us on the trail ; said he was working for wages, but 
had had time to do some prospecting and to stake out a 
number of claims for himself — some of them very rich — but 
he found it impossible to get into the Recorder's office to 
record them. He offered a third in each to anyone who 

could have it done for him. While K , on horseback, 

and M by her side, were following the horse- trail, our 

Illinois man said that he could conduct us through high dry 
ground on the other side of the river. Once there, he said 
that he should like to tramp with us, as it did him so much 
good " to hear the sound of a lady's voice." 

At last came the " yodel," which meant that someone in 
our party was exhausted and wanted to pitch tent for the 
night. We joined forces at Gordon's Camp, where we were 
surrounded by tents. While Isaacs was pitching ours, 

M took us to the cabin of Mr. and Mrs. to pay a 

short visit. Their quarters were nice and comfortable, and 
even the baby had a modern cradle into which we peeped, 
but, as it was late, we bade them good-night the moment 



172 



Two Women in the Klondike 



Isaacs announced that all preparations had been made for us. 
Pine boughs had been spread on the ground, and our robes 

and blankets over them. After crawling in, M and 

Jones lighted a bonfire at our door, and then sought the 
cabin in which they had been offered bunks. 

No fear felt we, though surrounded on all sides by un- 
known men. One has but to know the honest miner to 
recognise that he is ever ready to assist woman, and that sad 




OUR TENT ON THE TRAIL. 

would be the fate and speedy the death of one who should 
offer her an insult. As the bonfire died out, we watched 
the new moon rising over the mountains opposite, and light- 
ing the valley below, and felt that the wonderful and beauti- 
ful works of the dear L,ord are everywhere present. 

Tuesday, August 9th. 
My ears were greeted on awakening with, " Flour 's gone 
to hell ! What fool tied this horse up here ! We '11 make 



Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 173 

M give us another bag," and then came the folding of 

tents, the tramping of men and the departure of the pro- 
spectors for another day's work towards fortune or disap- 
pointment. As we continued our tramp, B 's horse 

floundered and stumbled so in the mire and over the rocks 
that, after several hairbreadth escapes she also concluded to 
walk ; so Isaacs was relieved of his pack and the horse re- 
ceived the burden. At 10 a.m. we reached a restaurant at 
the forks of the road. We four sat on a bench and, with 
Isaacs at our feet, devoured bread and butter and coffee. 
When the irrepressible said, " Had no time to wash my face ; 
is it dirty?" he was snubbed, if he could have been, by 
hearing, " No time to look at it." Another long tramp over 
rolling stones, mossy grounds, narrow ledges on the edge of 
a precipice from which a tiny rolling stone would have pre- 
cipitated us to instant destruction, but the unvarying kind- 
ness and assistance of M and Jones made us repress all 

signs of fear for very shame. We came to sluice-boxes with 
signs prohibiting people to walk therein, but the owners of 
which invariably gave us the desired permission, which we 
enjoyed until we reached Bonanza, where we " panned out " 
and shouted with joy as the stones and gravel disappeared 
and we saw the rich gold gathering in the bottom. 

We were promised another pan on our return, so, as the 
miners were just about to blast, we went on to Skookum 

Creek, in which M had also a half-interest. Here we 

were filled with excitement and joy as our pans came to 
seven and ten dollars each, and we picked up a few nuggets 
besides. Then came the worst trip of all, to Grand Forks 
Hotel, which we reached about midday, ready to drop into 
the first seat that offered itself. A fee to the cook secured a 
tub of hot water, which was most soothing to my poor 
blistered foot. Here we met a large party of miners, owners 
of several mines. An agent from the Alaska Commercial 
Company, soliciting orders, had an excellent luncheon 
cooked by a Japanese, who confided to us that he had been 
nine years in the country and was now " going out " and 
that almost every customer had given him a nugget. 



174 Two Women in the Klondike 

In the meantime Jones, instead of resting, had gone to the 
thirteen-thousand-dollar mine and brought me back some of 
the rock which he had hammered off; it showed gold in 

every part. M said he would accompany us to pass 

judgment on the proposition, so we climbed up the steep 

hill where we broke off rock which M pronounced of 

unusual richness, but said that the mine had been so thor- 
oughly worked that there was little left. On we tramped, 
stopping at one claim after another, never knowing that the 

greater number of them belonged to modest M , until some 

employee of his told us. We stopped at B 's mine, where 

B was brave enough* to go down the very steep incline 

to see the panning and was rewarded by the gift of a couple 
of nuggets as a souvenir of the occasion. My blistered foot 
kept me on the top of the hill with no nugget. On the road 
I stopped to chat with one of my fellow-passengers, who gave 
me the numbers of three bench claims to locate, and then 
asked if, on his return the following day, I would introduce 

him to the great man of the country, M . A little farther 

on, a miner stopped to chat with me. Not having seen a 
woman for ages he was anxious to ask me about his sore 
throat for which I promised him a remedy on my return to 
the tent. He then told me of his son, who had met his 

death in one of the mines of S of Colorado, and how the 

generous owner had educated his remaining son, who was 
prospecting near by, but had had no luck as yet. 

Towards eight in the evening we reached M 's mines. 

There were two brothers in his employ of the same name as 
our guide and host, but not related to him. In a comfort- 
able, nicely floored cabin sat pretty, refined Mrs. M at 

her sewing-machine, with all about her as clean and attract- 
ive as though she had a dozen shops at hand upon which to 
call for supplies. There was but one room, according to the 
custom of the country, with the stove for cooking purposes 
outside in a sheltered nook, and a cache like a closet adjoin- 
ing. Mrs. M welcomed us with her soft, pleasant voice, 

and cooked some ham, fried some real potatoes (which she 
told us were described in this part of the world as " human 



Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 175 

potatoes ")> gave us some delicious bread — her own make — 
with equally delicious butter and tea. After we had done 
full justice to these viands we were treated to something 
which made our mouths water — a light, feathery, cream 
layer-cake. The repast finished, we sat outside in the two 
home chairs, the men on boxes, and enjoyed the grandeur 
of the scenery, with its magnificent mountains opposite, on 




A SLUICE-BOX IN OPERATION. 

which bench claims are already staked and giving forth good 
pay. At our feet was the El Dorado River, filled with 
sluice-boxes through which the water flowed rapidly, while 
the piles of rock and stone on either side showed how quickly 
the ground was being dug out. The men who were intro- 
duced to us said it was not at all necessary for us to pitch 
our tent, as there was a vacant one near by, which they could 
assure us was thoroughly clean as the boys who lived in it 
were most particular, and they were now on the trail. We 
found a bed inside, raised about one foot from the ground 
made of evergreen boughs, boxed in by the tent on one side 



i7 6 Two Women in the Klondike 

and a board on the other. It was wide enough to bunk four 

men. Our man Friday had thrown E- ? s blankets across 

the boughs for us to sleep on, and my fur robe to cover us. 
Fortunately we had brought our down cushions which served 
as pillows. 

I was awakened some time during the night by hearing 

E say, " What is the cause of this intrusion ? " and there 

at the tent door with his face clearly showing in the moon- 
light, stood the startling apparition of a man. Had I caught 
sight of him first, my shrieks would probably have aroused 

the people on either side of the river, but, hearing E 's 

low, firm voice, I listened quietly as the stranger replied : 
" This is my tent ; I have just come in from the trail and 
was not aware that it was occupied ; but now that I am here 
should like my blankets, and will leave you undisturbed if 
you will kindly throw them out." " They were taken to 

M 's," said E , " where they told me there was a 

bunk for j^ou should you return." " Which M ? " said 

the intruder, but we could give him no further information, 
and left him to discover for himself. 

Wednesday, August loth. 

This morning my poor blistered heel was so inflamed and 
bleeding that I dared not put on a boot, so slipped into a 
wrapper, made my toilet, and decided, to my intense disap- 
pointment, that there was nothing for it but to give that foot 

at least a day's rest. So K went alone to M 's, 

where we had been asked to breakfast. No sooner had the 
news of my crippled state reached them than our host and 
Mr. Jones immediately appeared at the door and agreed that 

it would be folly for me to move. M had already visited 

one of his claims and had a bag of gold on his shoulder 
almost too heavy for even so large a man as he to stagger 
under. He was about to go back on business to the Forks 
when he met his men coming in seach of him. Jones and 

E went on to see a " clean-up " at No. — , and were 

then going to No. — , where the gold ran from two to 
three hundred dollars to the pan. This is so marvellous 



Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 177 

that they did not wish us to take it on faith, but to see for 
ourselves. How I groaned as they started off without me, 
and felt indignant that so small a thing as a pebble in the 
boot could have worked such damage. 

Isaacs soon made his appearance to get orders for the day, 
but before they could be given his glib tongue began its 
usual monologue. " Well, marm, I 'm glad you 've seen 




ONE PAN !N A RICH MINE. 



me as I am, and not as a galley-slave. Everyone knows me 

all along the road, and heven M 'as n't got more friends. 

Did you just see them a-callin' of me on all sides, mum ? 
One made me take off my old wet shoes and put on this fine 
pair of rubber boots ; another stopped me to give me a cup o' 
coffee ; an' right there at that place where you saw the 'oss 
tied up, you might 'a' wondered whatever 'ad become o' me, 
but Isaacs 's always all right ; a friend 'ad stopped me to 
give me such a good dinner as I 've not 'ad the likes o' for 



178 Two Women in the Klondike 

many a day ! We 'ad fresh meat, marm, that we 'ad, and. 
plenty of it, an' those friends o' mine, marm, why, they 're 
taking out a million dollars, marm, if they 're takin' out a 
cent, an' pleased they were to see me ; and now p'raps you. 
can hunderstand better as 'ow I was right when I excused 
myself from 'aving that picture o' mine taken in your tent, 
in a menial position. Yer see, marm, when a feller 's once 
been a Bonanza King, it 's against nature that he should 
want to be taken like that just because he 's down on his 
luck, but if I strikes one o' these here good claims, why you 
can take me as what I really mean to be, a Bonanza King. 

" Glass o' water ? Yes 'm, then I 'm going to borrow some 
things for these poor feet o' yours, and you '11 soon see what 
Isaacs' friends can do for you ; " so off the quiet (?) fellow 
went, and soon returned with lint, liniment, a pair of new 
muck-a-lucks, scissors, needle, and thread with which to sew 
the bandages. " How much did I pay? Well, whenever 
you 'ears of Isaacs' friends haskiug pay for doing a kindness, 
to a sick lady you just let me know, mum, an' it '11 be the 
last time they '11 'ave the pleasure o' bowin' to 'im. They 
says as 'ow you 're to keep hevery think, marm, until it 's. 
perfectly convenient for you to return them, new muck-a- 
lucks and all, marm, and they do belong to Mrs. L, , and 

a mighty fine lady she is, — worth a million if she 's worth five- 
cents, and no hairs nor nonsense about it." The muck-a- 
lucks were put to soak and Isaacs brought a tub of hot water, 
saying that there was nothing that he could not borrow on 
the trail. He then tied the tent flaps together and departed. 
Tied tent flaps are much more respected here than are bolts, 
bars, and padlocks at home. 

Shortly after came a visit from Mr. and Mrs. M , who- 

both urged me to move to their house, where it would be 
more comfortable and cool, but although the heat was almost 
insufferable as the sun's rays poured down on the canvas- 
roof, yet, as they had but one room in which to sleep, eat, 
and receive their guests, such a sacrifice was too great to 
accept. Good, kind-hearted Jones offered to get a harness 
and strap me on his back, to be carried thus down the 



Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 179 

mountain-side. M said that it could easily be done, as 

he had often packed more than one hundred and fifty pounds 

when on the trail. As K and I both refused to ride the 

horse we had brought with us, and for which we are paying- 
thirty dollars for the first two days, and ten dollars for each 
succeeding day, they also offered to send him back and them- 
selves to carry all of the pack which Isaacs might not be able 
to manage — another offer which we could not allow ourselves 
to accept, preferring the expense to the imposition. 




AWAITING THE RESULT OF A CLEAN-UP. 

Jones explained to us his position with M , saying, 

"He's known me since I was a kid and he don't like to go 
to Iyondon without me. You see he knows more about min- 
ing than me, but he thinks I can help him some in society. 
You see I spent seven thousand dollars in getting into society 
in New York and Boston, an' I got into some pretty good 
clubs, although I ain't had much schoolin' coz I was kid- 



180 Two Women in the Klondike 

napped from school as a child ; stilt that don't make no 
difference, coz them that 'as met Jones once at any o' the 
clubs alius asks him to come again, an' that 's a pretty good 

sign, ain't it ? an' I can help M a good deal, coz he 's 

got a heart o' gold ; the only trouble is that there 's so many 
a-tryin' to oust me out o' my place with him just to get in 
themselves ; here he's a big man, an' wherever he goes 
everybody knows him an' tries to buttonhole him." At 

lunch-time Mrs. M sent me by Isaacs some delicious 

beef, new (human) potatoes, bread, butter, and two slices of 
raw onion, which those who live here the year round say 
is quite necessary for health. Isaacs ate the onion with 
avidity upon hearing that I did not care for it, and I re- 
luctantly left him half of the luncheon, as he led me to be- 
lieve that he had had no breakfast. 

A visit from Mr. D M , who sat at the tent door 

for half an hour whittling and entertaining me. He has 
been " in" for four years ; expects to " go out " next year, 
never to return, having made his pile. He also invited me 
up to the house, where they could make me more comfort- 
able, and said there was no one there but his sister-in-law, 
who would be very glad to see me. He heartily agreed with 
me that she was not only very pretty but an excellent house- 
keeper. He told me that those who froze here did not know 
how to dress properly ; that it was as bad to put on too much 
as too little clothing ; that he had worked with the mercury 
at eighty degrees below zero. There is great rejoicing 
among all claim-owners over the rumour that the royalty 
has been reduced from ten per cent, to two, " and we can 
afford to pay that," said he, ''as we sometimes get pans 
that run all the way from three hundred to twelve hundred 
dollars, whereas, on the American side, you make much 
less than you do here, even after paying the ten per cent, 
royalty." 

Just then B returned enthusiastic over her day's trip, 

though with lame and aching feet. " We went first to 

No. — , El Dorado," said she ; " Mr. M met us there 

and we watched the end of the clean-up of half a day's work, 



Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 181 

two men, and out came five thousand dollars, all washed 
through sluice-boxes, then raked and spaded. From there 
to No. — and thirty feet down a perpendicular ladder ; 
another clean-up, twelve thousand dollars in two days, seven 
men at work. Gold fell out wherever I poked my umbrella, 
and, at the last moment, Jones knocked out a stone and right 
behind it shone a nugget weighing between seven and eight 











J * M 


^Hm^^ 


w - W 


L 






■ 


i^** 
;%*•>. 




r -" 






" v 4 *JP 


: 4, f 


raR^*>»^ 




*— !- 


UK 


P^r- 


i^HI 


^*^*8HH| 






- " "" " :~ ^ -v- ,S 


*-"** '^3 


" 


*' 



THE RESULT OF A CLEAN-UP. 



ounces. In the cabins w 7 ere great pans of gold which I tried 
to photograph, one pan with six hundred and seventy-eight 

dollars. Next we went to M 's pet, No. — , but I did 

not care so much for that, as the gold was finer and not so 
easily seen. Then back to No. — , to see them sifting and 
drying gold, taking the black sand out with a common 
magnet such as children use." 



After dinner E- 



and Jones sat in the door of the 



182 Two Women in the Klondike 

tent entertaining me, while Isaacs sat outside smoking his 
pipe and waiting orders from us. " Well, Isaacs, did you 
go up the hill and write our names on the stakes?" said 

B- . " I went up to top o' the hill and down to the 

Gulch, and there were only eighteen claims and they were 
all staked out to the very end ; cabins there and people 
prospecting, and they said as how they had n't found nothink. 
Went down one fellow's hole and he 'd put a fire in it. No, 
an' I did n't stake in the other stream neither. You just 
bet yer life, Jones, if there 'd been any think in it I 'd V 
been in it myself, cause that 's what I come up 'ere for." 
" Just think of No. — ," said B, turning to me ; " every 
time I put my umbrella in, the great pieces of gold fell out ; 

I could have sat there for ever." At eleven, as M did 

not materialise we said good-night and dropped the tent flap. 

Thursday, August nth. 

We awakened at eight ; all was quiet ; no one moving out- 
side, not even the dogs. My lame foot still prevented me from 
going to the M s' cabin for breakfast, which B pro- 
mised to send me by Isaacs. She soon returned, saying, " It 
is nine o'clock, but no one is up yet." Shortly after, Jones 
and Isaacs appeared to dress and bandage my wounds. Then 

came Mrs. M , with such a nice breakfast. Finally, our 

guide, Mr. M , appeared, to know if I should be able to 

go on, and said, " As Miss V panned out some nuggets 

yesterday, I thought it would be only fair to fetch a few for 
you," and he handed me four beauties. Isaacs admired them 

so loudly that he was handed a small one by M for a 

scarf-pin. " Now," said the latter, " if you feel equal to the 
walk, we '11 go down to Skookum Gulch and you shall have 
your turn at panning out." " That is a great inducement," 
said I, " and rather than keep the party back I '11 go if the 
foot has to be amputated after." " By Josh! you 're 

plucky," said M ; " but we '11 take it slowly and you 

can stop whenever you feel like it." Isaacs rolled up our 
tent, fur robes, etc., and said, " You see, marm, I 've never 
boasted much as to what I could do, but when you take a 




CLEAN-UP ON THE B MINE. 



1 84 Two Women in the Klondike 

trip like this you 're not long in finding out what an 'andy 
fellow I ham. I never believe in boasting ; just let people 
find out for themselves an' they '11 soon know what you are. 
An' now I '11 return your breakfast dishes. Great Julius 
Caesar ! ain' t you goin' to eat that fine cake ? Goin' to give 
it to me ! Well, by golly, I 'm thankful for it ; your kind- 
ness and generosity shall never be forgotten by yours truly,, 
who 's only 'ad a flapjack for 'is breakfast. You see yester- 
day I lent a 'elpin' 'and so often to the missus that she 
could n't 'elp haskin me to dinner ; carried water for her, 
chopped wood, and made myself as useful as a man can to a 
woman, an' that beef she gave me — well, I ain't sayin' any- 
think, but that 's the fir ~st I 've tasted for a long time, an* 
I 'm goin to fix some just like it for }^ou two ladies as soon 
as we get back." 

Our first stopping- pi ace, after bidding farewell to the 

hospitable M s and inviting them to visit us in West 

Dawson, was at the B s' comfortable cabin with its car- 
pet, rocking-chairs and homelike appearance. We were 

welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. B and Mrs. B 's sister. 

Mrs. B showed us a tin box filled with hundreds of 

nuggets from their mine. She was able to tell them all 
apart, their weight, and when and where found. Her sister 
also had a fine collection, but said that panning was such, 
hard work that she did not do it very often, even though it 
meant extra nuggets. 

We next went on to Bonanza No. — , where Mr. M 

told us we might have all the gold we could pan out ; but 
as they had just had a clean-up and my first efforts w T ere 

not successful, M finished his business with the overseer 

and said, ' ' Let us go over to Skookum Gulch and there 
we '11 find some nuggets. ' ' So, leaving K and Jones dig- 
ging, surrounded by the honest miners who were helping- 
them in their search, we went over sluice-boxes and crossed 
narrow ledges down into Skookum Gulch, No. — , where 

F welcomed us and said, " Had you only come yesterday 

I could have helped you to find some beauties." However, 
we crawled under the sluice-boxes, and on hands and knees 



Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 185 

we chipped away until two big nuggets fell into my hands ; 
then we filled a pan, took it over to the water-box, and the 
excitement began as the stones and gravel washed out and 
the colours began to show. More shaking of the pan, and 
the colours became clearer, until at length the small stones 
fell out and only nuggets remained. These were dropped 
into my handkerchief in accordance with the custom here, 
that the best the mine affords is scarcely sufficient to do 
honour to woman, so highly is she appreciated where she so 

rarely appears. B and Jones soon joined us and K 

washed out a pan, after which, as M was obliged to re- 
turn to the Forks and visit the clean-ups from his other 
mines, we parted company, thanking him again and again 
for his kindness and for the wonderful experiences he had 
given us. He recommended us to the care of honest John 
Jones, and well did he fulfil the charge. 

We had sent Isaacs ahead with the horse and pack, telling 
him to meet us at the Half-way House, but, as that was eight 

miles distant and E had not much confidence in her 

ability to walk it, Isaacs was told to listen for our yodel and 
not to keep too far ahead of us, on the horse trail opposite. 
How the trail changed ! Sometimes the ground was hard 
and dry, then suddenly would appear a marsh in which our 
feet would sink beyond the ankle, and so extensive that, 
peer as we would, not a sign could be seen of the trail be- 
yond ; we would wade through the marsh, carefully picking 
our steps for fear of disappearing entirely from view ; then 
we would suddenly come upon one of those beautiful mossy, 
spongy carpets of such glorious colours of pale grey, green, 
and red that it looked as though prepared for a dance of the 
fairies. How we longed to get an adequate photograph of 
such exquisite beauty that no pen can picture ! On we 
tramped over this most delicate of carpets, on which the foot 
rests but leaves no impress, and, just as we were in despair 
at the thought of having lost the trail, it would loom plainly 
and clearly before us again, well trodden and unmistakable. 

About 8 p.m. we reached the junction of the two roads 
and gladly seated ourselves on the bench under the tent 



186 Two Women in the Klondike 

for supper. Two men stopped to have lemonade, and 
were charged fifty cents a glass. Before starting again 

Isaacs took off B 's muck-a-lucks and filled them once 

more with fresh straw to protect the soles of her feet from 
being cut by the sharp stones which we sometimes encoun- 
tered. K was still doubtful as to whether she could 

make the Half-way House, so Isaacs went on with the same 
instructions to listen for the yodel, which would mean that 
he must pitch the tent for the night. We were both anxious 
not to give up, as it would have meant that the men must 
spend the night in the open air without blankets, although 
men in this part of the world are not unaccustomed to that 
hardship, as evidenced by the many sound sleepers over 
whom we almost stumbled, so near to the trail were they 
lying. 

Finally, it became almost too dark to see the way, as, at 
this time of year, one has really a few hours without sun or 
moon. Now came the bridges ; not wide ones with a railing, 
but a log of wood, which sometimes rolled over as we stepped 
upon it, laid across a dashing torrent without any support. 

Poor John Jones was obliged to cross it first with K , then 

return for me, and how we did cling to his hand! At last 
we were really off the trail, and, search as we would, no 
trace of it could be discovered. We were almost ready to 
weep with fatigue, but knew that we must keep up our spirits 
and not depress or discourage the man who, although so ill 
and faint himself that he could scarcely walk, still bravely led 
on. Finally we sat down to rest while honest John went on 
a voyage of discovery, but when he returned he had found 
no sign of a trail. Suddenly we heard a sound in the dis- 
tance and walked towards it until we reached a mine where 
men were still working. They told us that we must either 
retrace our steps for a mile, or try the perilous task of climb- 
ing the rocks and stones that had been thrown up from the 
mine, leaving the deep cavern beneath. We decided upon 
the latter course, rather than go back. In fear and trembling 
we began to crawl over the pointed mass of rolling stones, 
carefully testing each step before daring to trust to it. Slip- 



Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 187 

ping, sliding, clutching for Jones' sever- ready hand, it seemed 
hours before we reached the bridge and tried, the dashing 
water with our sticks to probe the depth before we dared put 
foot upon the log. During the entire trip we had said to 
each obstacle, " So long as we do not sink above the knee it 
does n't matter," but here, although Jones did all in his 
power to steady us, the log rolled and the water rushed into 
our boots as we went up to our hips and were pulled out on 
shore. Poor John was in great distress at the accident, but 
we assured him that it had cooled our burning feet deliciously, 
and that, as no one ever takes cold in this country, there 
was no harm done. But still he worried, feeling himself to 
blame, and all we could say did not restore his spirits. 

Then came a long stretch of woods and bog, and as there 
was nothing to light us on our way, I began to sing, Lead 
Ki7idly Light, lead Thou me on. Just then we stumbled 
over a sleeping man. As he sat up I began to apologise, 
whereupon he said, " Don't make no excuses, lady ; I 'd be 
willing to be woke up every night to hear Lead Kindly Light 
sung by a lady. ' ' We next passed a cabin , and a voice called 
out, " What time is it? How good it is to hear a lady 

sing ' ' ; but K said she was so weary that song made her 

nervous, and so we continued our tramp in silence. Soon 
we saw bright lights ahead and rejoiced that the hotel was 
so near. With quickened step we approached, only to find 
an enormous bonfire around which were seated about twenty 
men. At home we should have thought of tramps, and have 
made an enormous detour, at sight of the big slouch hats and 
unknown faces at so late an hour; but, being in Alaska among 
men whose hearts seem to rejoice at sight of a woman, we 
merely passed the time of night and inquired " How far to 
the Half-way House ? " " Only a mile," they replied, and 

E groaned, saying that her feet felt as though they had 

been bastinadoed, and that each step was agony. Another 
mile of marsh brought us, thoroughly exhausted, to the small 
hotel. All were sleeping, but "mine host" was soon 
aroused. There was accommodation for Jones in an eight- 
bunk hall. The proprietor placed his room at our disposal, 



1 88 Two Women in the Klondike 

while Isaacs had to put up the tent and sleep outside. We 
quickly turned in to beds almost as narrow as coffins, but we 
were thankful enough even for such accommodations. 

Friday, August 12th. 

In the morning Isaacs brought us big tubs of hot water 
and with it towels which we did not care to use. This re- 
minds me to add the caution, that one should always travel 
with one's own linen, no matter what else has to be left 
behind. He also Drought us the news that the horse for 
which we are paying from ten to fifteen dollars a day had 
strayed away during the night and wandered several miles 
on the homeward trail. He was told to go at once in search 
of it, but said he could not do so without his breakfast. 
Several hours later he tried to overtake the beast, but re- 
turned saying that it was not to be found. So Isaacs had 
to pack on his back the sixty or seventy pounds, and was 
told to start on the horse trail, transfer the pack to the horse's 
back and lead him into town, meeting us at the stores of the 
Alaska Commercial Company. We took a few pictures and 

then started off, K having changed muck-a-lucks with 

the cook, and I wearing one India-rubber boot and one 
muck-a-luck. 

We started on the last stage of our journey at three sharp, 
and having been told that by climbing the mountain we 
could cut off two miles, we took that route, intending to do 
the eight miles leisurely — eight miles, possibly, as the crow 
flies, but, with all the circuitous windings of the trail, how 
many could it have been ? The climb was one steady pull 
up — up — the mountain growing steeper and steeper. We 

rested many times, as E 's feet were almost too sore to 

touch the ground, while mine felt as though there were 
mustard plasters on each sole. Up— up — and steeper and 
more steep became the mountain, until it was almost perpen- 
dicular. Had we seen a map or picture of it before starting, 
never should we have attempted the climb, but with patient 
Jones ready to tender assistance at any moment in spite of 
being still pale, ill, and faint, we were shamed into a courage 



Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 189 

we were far from feeling. Many men passed us on the trail ; 
many we passed as they rested by the wayside, and from 
each one came pleasant greetings and compliments at our 
pluck and courage, praise which I little deserved, being such 
a coward at heart. At last we reached the summit, and the 
magnificent view was well worthy of the exertion. There 
was our tent in the distance : before us the Klondike River : 



; 




*""._• - ... 



RETURNING FROM A CLEAN-UP. 



on the right a beautiful island, and, just beyond, Dawson. 
We seated ourselves on the mossy carpet, and feasted our 
eyes while resting our weary limbs. Then came four miles 
down hill, through woods, then a marsh where the trail was 
lost again and again, but as there were so many passing in 
each direction, it was easily refound. Our way next led us 
through a town whose name I do not like to mention — 
" Louse-town." When Jones said we must pass through it, 
I strongly objected, but he replied, " Why, there ain't none 



i9° Two Women in the Klondike 

of 'em there ; that 's only the name they give it, 'cause it 
was bought from the Indians, an' they 're always lousy." 
We hastened through, nevertheless, and then found ourselves 
at the head of a perpendicular descent ; after walking, sliding, 
and rolling down a long hill, which seemed so dangerous 
that we should have taken a picture of it had there been 
light enough, to enable us afterwards to realise our own 
bravery. Never should I have dared it had there been any 
other way of reaching home. Although the bank of the 
river was lined with boats and the place filled with men, it 
took nearly an hour to find one to row us, or rather to float 
with the strong current to West Dawson, not a mile distant. 
The first man wanted ten dollars, the second three, which we 
willingly gave, as, had we walked across the bridge, it would 
have cost one dollar each, and then we should have had the 
Main Street of Dawson to traverse before reaching the Alaska 
Commercial Company to take a boat. As we drifted down 
stream, we yodelled to Isaacs, and shortly after he appeared 
with his pack. 

Bad news greeted us on our arrival. The neighbours' 
dogs had come into the tent during our absence and killed 
quite a number of the pigeons. It was eight o'clock and 
Isaacs, though exhausted, managed to prepare us a nice little 

supper. Dr. H came to see if we required his services, 

and then such a night's rest as we should have enjoyed had 
it not been for the incessant barking of the dogs just outside 
the tent ; a noise which their owners do not seem at all to 
mind, but which awakened us again and again. 

Saturday, August 13th. 

We must get rid of the pigeons ! They have become so 
tame that they not only fly all about the tent, but even light 
upon the bed ; at half-after five this morning I was up de- 
coying them out by offering them food and drink outside the 
tent door, and then Poll had to be fed in order to quiet her 
scolding. The silence then was such an inducement that I 
began to write, and have been at it ever since. The pigeons, 
however, have come back through the air-holes in the top 



Visiting Mines with a Klondike King 191 

of the tent, and are so saucy that they are sitting on the 
bench at my side, on the table at which I am writing, perch- 
ing on cups and making them fall with a crash, dipping into 
our drinking-water bucket, which our man-of-all-work was 
too weary to cover before going home last night, and even 
going into the barrel, which makes me feel like covering it 
up so that they may never come out. Moral — never open a 
pigeon-box, after a voyage, in a place where you do not wish 
them to remain, for, fight them as you will, it is impossible 
to drive them out afterwards. 

Our first visitor was Mrs. T , to ask how we had en- 
joyed our trip, to inquire if she might be of service, and to 
insist upon making us coffee, as it was after ten, Isaacs had 
not yet appeared, and our feet were too swollen to permit of 

our taking the least liberty in using them. E , however, 

made some of her delicious biscuit, which the cook, saunter- 
ing in before eleven, enjoyed with great gusto. Then K , 

who now takes charge, kindly relieving me from all care, 
had her first unpleasant experience with Klondike house- 
keeping. The storm had been brewing for some time, and 

she felt it necessary to " have it out." M had arranged 

with his unfortunate friend to come to us as cook, carpenter, 
boatman, etc., for one hundred and fifty dollars a month and 
his " grub." He had worked well, cooked well, made us 
tables, shelves, and stools from boxes, etc., was willing and 
obliging, and at first we were well pleased. Then he found 

our " grub " too dainty for a strong man, so we got M 

to order just what miners used, and advanced him money 
to purchase a tent, blankets, and other necessary articles. 
His tent was pitched very near ours, and he was allowed 
the time to go back and forth for his meals. But this took 
so long that when we were in a hurry he remained, par- 
taking of our food. 

Next came a demand for fresh meat, and, as the regular 
price is one dollar a pound, and we found on inquiry that 
very few men got it, we refused this modest request. We 
also objected to his coming in and out of the front door be- 
fore our guests with pipe in mouth, or to carrying in big 



19 2 Two Women in the Klondike 

boxes when the back door was quite as convenient. We had 
requested him to take his " grub " with him on the trail, but 
after the second day he informed us that he had lost it, and 
when his friends no longer lined the route, two dollars and 
fifty cents a meal was the price paid. We then asked him to 
bring his ' ' grub ' ' over to our tent, and use our stove, rather 
than spend so much time in making extra fires. There were 
also many other small causes of complaint, of which he 

could not be made to see the impropriety, but when E 

said, " I am not in the habit of having my servants " — she 
got no further. 4 ' Servant, madam ! ' ' shouted Isaacs, snatch- 
ing up his hat. " How dare you call me a servant! Do you 
know who I am?" From his tone it seemed as though 

K 's end might be very near, and I prepared to go to her 

assistance, when suddenly his voice changed and he said, 
" 'Ave a glass of water, madam, a glass of cold spring 
water ? I begs your pardon, marm, for anything I 've said 
or done that 's not right, but it 's hard for me to be menial, 
an' I 'm always 'ot about it when anyone calls me so." Such 
a scene can only be done justice to on the stage. 

Mr. Jones and Mr. O soon came to inquire if they 

could do anything in town for us, and next Mrs. B , to 

tell us of a miners' meeting, at which everyone expressed 
resentment at the conduct of the Canadian officials, and con- 
cluded to protest and to bring pressure to bear for a change. 

" May I come in ? " said a new voice. " I 'm the only 
man in town who has n't called on you two ladies. My 

name is Q , and I 've heard so much that 's nice about 

you, that, although I never pay visits, I could n't stay away 

any longer." He was shortly joined by J and Jones, 

who brought us the latest news from town, and entertained 

us until the arrival of Mr. and Mrs. U -, who said they 

had called the night of our departure and spent an hour and 
a half in the tent waiting for the return of their boatman. 

Mrs. U declared that she is charmed with life here, in 

spite of having given up a fine residence at home with plenty 
of servants, and now living in a one-roomed cabin, doing 
her own housework, cooking, etc. 




CHAPTER XVIII 



OUR MAN FRIDAY 



Sunday, August 14th. 

WE were up early — I to drive the pigeons out and feed 
the pets, E to make biscuit, as Isaacs had 

dipped into our bread, which we had bought for Sunday's 
-dinner. He had gone off without washing the dishes or 
making the bread, leaving everything in the kitchen in the 
utmost disorder. We were so discouraged that it then de- 
volved upon me to lecture. So, when Isaacs came in about 
■9 a.m., I said, " You must listen to a few words from me, as 
you have paid no attention to Miss V , who is house- 
keeper." After a talk of half an hour, the sky was cleared, 
fine promises made, and Isaacs was working like a trooper. 
Soon from the different tents came the shouts of " Going to 
church ? " — ' 'Going to wear your overalls or trousers ? " — " I 
say, Jim, have you got my shaving soap ? I want to shave 
before going to that big tent." — " Oh, those ladies said we 
might come just as we are." — " So they did, but we can 
shave, at least " — and so the preparations went on all about 

us. Dr. D , unable to appear, sent a substitute. At 

•eleven o'clock only three persons were present. Isaacs said 
they were all ready, but were waiting for the bell, so he was 
allowed to toll it. Then they came trooping in, sitting on 
rugs, boxes, and benches. I remained behind the screen for 
the music, the clergyman asking to have it alternate with 
songs of praise. The services passed off well, and at the 
dose the clergyman said he should like to make the acquaint- 
ance of the different members of the congregation ; so we all 
13 

193 



194 Two Women in the Klondike 

had a pleasant chat, and became greatly interested in one 

another's plans and prospects. Mr. K , a neighbour, 

was glad to hear news of friends from Baltimore, Bar Har- 
bour, and New York. 

Mr. W and son, of Colorado, came after luncheon to 

ask for a " lay " on one of the many claims we had staked 
during the week, but to which I have not referred specifically, 
as the "tips" where to stake were given us by "Big 
A ■." The results will be seen after the spring " clean- 
up.' * The next visitor was Jones, who begged to hear the 
zither, offering to unpack it upon learning that it was in the 
bottom of a big box. So the zither was brought out and en- 
joyed until it was time to prepare the dinner, to which we 

had invited ' ' Big A . ' ' He arrived at six o'clock instead 

of seven, which we accepted as a pleasant compliment. 
Isaacs not only cooked, but served the meal as well as any 
one at home could have done. Our menu consisted of our 
last tin of mock-turtle soup, which was so greatly appreciated 
that we were fully repaid for having used it ; lobster a la 
Newburg — the name of which Jones asked many times ; 

E , who prepared it, was flattered by having each one 

ask for it twice, even though it was made of tinned lobster 
and California cooking sherry. Next came the leg of mutton 
which had been purchased the previous week, and had been 
hung so long that it was as sweet and tender as lamb, potato 

balls, made from dessicated potatoes, K 's famous escal- 

loped tomatoes, my asparagus salad, my peach ice-cream and 

K 's black coffee, with Cresta Bianca during the dinner, 

" topping off" with a glass of curacoa. 

While we were still at table our Consul arrived with a 

Mrs. B , and they joined us in ice-cream, cake, coffee, and 

wine. Mr. K also called, saying, " Here are some nug- 
gets for you." So you may imagine that we expressed our 
disgust when, instead of beautiful yellow souvenirs which are 
freely distributed in this country by the lucky owners of 

mines to their less fortunate friends, K handed us some 

newspapers called Klondike Nugget. ' ' Well, by Josh ! " said 
M- , " I 'm not a-going to see you disappointed like that,'" 



r 




196 Two Women in the Klondike 

and he fished down deep in his pocket and handed me first a 
souvenir from " Hunker " and then one from " Dominion," 
and added, ' ' When you go again on the trail you may pan 
out as much as you please from the mines on Hunker." 

" I like that," said E . " You never let me pan out a 

thing either on El Dorado or Dominion, and you saw me 
careful^ put back the handfuls of nuggets I had dug out 
from behind the stones. " "Well you never asked me, " said 

M . ' ! Now if she 'd been along, she would have laughed 

and said, ' Am I to keep all I pan out,' and of course I 'd 'a' 
said yes. Now was n't it a pity that she was n't able to 
come, 'cause you could both 'a' helped yourselves for the 
askin', as the clean-up was over a hundred thousand on each 
mine. 

" You 'd better come to my claims and help your- 
selves, by Josh, for a syndicate has paid twenty-five thousand 
dollars and is to give me one million, four hundred and fifty 
thousand dollars for them, and I to take out all the gold I 
can between now and October 1st, and should they change 
their minds I keep the twenty-five thousand dollars. I 'm 
also to get over a million for another claim which will be 
very rich next year, but which I have n't the time to develop, 
as I want some cash in order to enjoy myself in New York 
and London. I shall have plenty of claims left, and the 
clean-up next year will be greater than ever before." 

Could this be modest M— ? But he had just returned 

from the mines with horses laden with bags of gold, and who 
could have helped feeling triumphant and intoxicated with 
such success. And he deserves it all, after years of patient, 
steady, hard work. No man living is more "square" or 
more filled with kindliness and generosity to others than 

honest A M . He questioned me about travels in 

Europe and Japan, and of the great world outside, of which 
he knows so little. 

Jones went behind the screen to get E a glass of water 

and there found Isaacs rubbing his stomach, drawing in his 
breath with exclamations of delight, and saying, " By golly, 
that lobster a. la Newburg was good. I 'ave n't 'ad hany- 



Our Man Friday 197 

think so fine in hall me life." Poor E was unhappy, 

as she had made an extra dish for luncheon, but Isaacs had 
added it to his dinner of bacon and greens with prunes. He 
tried to atone for it, however, by coming and whispering to 
me, "I 've 'ad all the hice-cream I could heat marm and 
hi 've packed down the rest, thinkin' as 'ow pr'aps you 
and Miss V might like some for to-morrow." Only oc- 
casionally did Isaacs drop his h's and pick them up at the 
wrong time, and we have not yet discovered the cause. 

Monday, August 15th. 

Cold, drizzling rain ! and, although we have on heavy win- 
ter flannels and our warmest clothing, there is an icy chill in 
the air which makes us long for a nice warm room with a fire 
inside of this enormous tent. Our air mattresses have been 
worse than useless, heavy, and, although carefully cared for, 

the air escapes apparently through a seam. K told 

Isaacs that, by taking them down to the river bank and 
blowing them up in the water, bubbles would show the punc- 
ture, to which this irrepressible replied, " Yes 'm, they 're 
only seven feet by six, so I '11 take one under each harm, 
put 'em on the Yukon, float down to Circle City, an' then 
you '11 'ave lost your Isaacs." During our tramp to the 
mines he said to us, " Oh, I say! won't you two ladies be 
stiff and laid up ! When you gets back, you '11 just stay 
in bed a week, an' 'Zekiel '11 make the most delicious 
piquante, recherche luncheons 3^ou 've ever seen. Now, 
don't you never go to 'a-calling me Isaacs no more, 'cause 
when I strikes my luck people will remember as how I 've 
been a cook for you, but call me 'Zekiel, as there 's plenty 
o' Zekes in the world, and no one will ever know anythink 
about it." 

M told us that, seeing Isaacs waiting with his pack, 

he had asked about the ladies, and was told in reply: " My 
dusky queens are now coming down the Louse-town trail, but 

if I strikes my pile, I would n't mind marrying Miss V 

myself. She 's a fine one, but as for Mrs. H , why I 've 

got no use for her. She puts on too many airs and never 



igS Two Women in the Klondike 

lets a fellow talk when he wants to. Why, would you be- 
lieve it ? I went and sat on a bench beside her to tell her a 
funny joke I 'd just 'eard, and what did she do but say, 
' Isaacs, I 'm busy writing, and don't want to be disturbed.' 
Great Julius Caesar ! catch me trying to entertain her any 
more, an' me a-doin' me best." 

On our return, in bringing me hot water, he said, " Well, 
if you '11 permit me to make a remark, madam, you 're just 
the cleanest woman as I 've ever met. Why even up 'ere, 
where one can never keep clean, you 're a-washiu' and 
a-washin' o' yourself all the time. Cleanliness is next to 
Godliness, an' if I thought I could stand next to God I 'd 
take a bath ouce't a month. While I was getting you those 
nice big buckets o' hot water on the trail, I had only a 
couple o' gold pans to wash in, one in which for to put each 
foot ; none o' the gold stuck to them but a good deal rolled 
off o' my feet after that tramp. I once did have enough gold 
and that was at the Keeley cure. Me at the Keeley cure! 
Madam, how dare you ? Why, I 've never taken enough 
liquor in all me life to make a flea drunk. Talk about that 
dinner last night ! Why, no such dinner was ever given on 
the Yukon. How I did enjoy it in the little corner to which 
you 've relegated me behind the screen ! And when you told 
me to clear the table I just looked at your glass an' says to 

myself, ' Mrs. H never forgets Zeke,' and there it was 

almost a full glass o' champagne. I tell you, it made me feel 
just good to watch the sparkle of it, an' I held it as a miser 
does his gold and could n't make up my mind to drink it. 
Great Julius Caesar, but was n't it good, though! I could n't 
get to sleep until after one o'clock just a-thinkin' about it." 

Mr. Jones was our first caller this morning. He had just 

returned from spending the night with M- in Dawson, 

and although we told him the tent was not yet in order, he 
insisted that as he was one of the " outskirts of the family " 
we ought not to mind him. Isaacs' s tongue had been un- 
loosened and nothing could stop it. His head appeared 
over the screen and he called out. " I say, John, how did 
you and M enjoy our dinner last night ? Pretty good, 



Our Man Friday 199 

was n't it ? Thought so myself. I 'm getting a fine repu- 
tation as a chef, eh? I say, I 've been investigating, this 
morning, and I 've found all sorts of things in these glasses," 
said he, as his forefinger went from mouth to liqueur glass. 
■' 'Ere 's somethink new— don't know what it tastes like — 
oranges, I guess. I say, did you ever taste it before these 
two ladies gave it to you ? I tell you, it 's good," and Zeke 
commenced rubbing his stomach and giving forth exclama- 
tions of delight. Jones said to B , " M has done 

nothing but talk about that dinner and say he 'd never had 
anything so delicious in all his life, but he said he did n't 
say so to you ladies, as he did n't know whether it was 
' society ' to do so. You don't put on no airs and you make 
him feel just like he was one o' your set, and never seem to 
notice no mistakes in his conversation. He 's sure he must 
make a lot, 'cause he ain't had no more schoolin' 'n me ; has 
been all his life in mines, an' says you 're real ladies to treat 

him so nice. Oh, I say, Mrs. H . I'm a layin' for you ; 

you treated me real mean last night. You just see how I 'm 
goin' to pay you back." "Why, were you here last night ? " 

said I, laughing. " Now just look at her, Miss V . 

What can you do with a lady like that ? She 's always 
a-joshin' you, an' I can't never get the best o' her. Just wait 
till she wants me to help her over a bridge or down the side 
of a mountain, or thinks she sees a bear, an' then she '11 be 
a-callin' for John, but just now she feels so safe in this here 
tent that she ain't got no use for him." This reminds me 

that M told last night of a man who had been found 

dead on' the trail to Sulphur, with a bear full of shot lying 

by his side, but still breathing. M said that if he 

had n't shot at the bear he probably would not have been 
attacked ; that the only way was to pay no attention to it, 

and one would stand a good chance of escape, but K 

and I then and there decided that no amount of panning or 
bags of nuggets would ever tempt us to go on the Sulphur 
trail. 

Mr. T came next and brought us a magnificent fresh 

salmon which we told him he must share with us later. He 



2oo Two Women in the Klondike 



then unfolded the following scheme : his friend B- 
purchased No. — bench claim, adjoining B : 



had 

s on El 

Dorado for three hundred dollars at auction, but, on finding 
that it was seventy feet to bed-rock, had concluded not to 
keep it, and would let it go (to a friend) for same price as 

paid. " Of course everyone is for No. — ," said T , 

" and my proposition is that you ladies buy it and give me 




A VEGETABLE GARDEN IN THE KLONDIKE. 

half." " You to do the assessment work ? " said I. " My 
share, ' ' replied he. He had another plan also ; said that his 
intention was to get a lot of claims together, pool them, go 
home, form a syndicate, and get money to work them. ' ' Be- 
ing in with you two ladies will be so much the better, as 
you have been here and know just what there is in them 
and people will believe you where they might not believe a 
man." 

Then came Dr. H , who carefully dressed and bandaged 



Our Man Friday 201 

our feet. Someone asked M if the ladies in the big tent 

had returned, to which he replied, " Oh yes, but they 're in 
so many poultices and bandages that it '*s hard to get near 
them." Isaacs called out from behind the screen, " I say, 
'ave you 'eard the latest ? The people in Dawson want to 
know if you two ladies are missionaries, as they see as 'ow 
you have services hevery Sunday, an' I told 'em indeed you 
was, and one man said, ' By Jove, an' I told them a story 
about throwin' Christ out o' the window. I '11 never dare 
to go near them no more.' Another spoke up and said, 
4 Why they l* y as 'ow they 'ave the finest dinners as 'ave 
never been known in the Klondike before, and they travels 
with their own chef,' but I did n't let on as I was the chef. 
Then some other fellows said they 'd never been in the tent, 
there was too much style over there for 'em, but they believed 
they 'ad a lot o' little tents in which to play progressive 
euchre, and give ice-cream free to everyone who called 'ot 
an' tired from the other side. Then somebody said as I was 
a-waitin' on you, and they arsked me some questions, but I 
did n't let on a thing, just told 'em you were two princesses 
from India wanting to see the world." 

2 p.m. While at luncheon the irrepressible came in say- 
ing, " Now that you two ladies are at table and neither 
readin' norwritin', I 've got a think or two I 'd like to say ; 
have I your permission ? " looking first at one and then the 
other, as he drew up an empty box and placed it at table 
between us. " You see," he whispered, with a mysterious 
air, " I 've been a-digging about here and have found every 
symptom of quartz. Now what 's the matter with looking 
nearer 'ome for someone to put you on to a good thing in 

stead o' listening to your Mr. T and all the other fellows 

who tries to do the 'owlin' swells in your heasy chairs, 
while I, as is worth twenty of them, slaves away be'ind that 
there screen. Now if you ladies will just fit me out all right 
with grub and money, and start me hoff on the trail, you '11 
see that Zeke can do even better for you there than in the 
kitchen. Bring a glass o' water ? Yes, that 's always the 
way, whenever I get in the midst of an hinteresting con- 



202 Two Women in the Klondike 

versation. Now 'ere 's Miss V ; it seems to me she 

would enjoy listening to me sometimes, but when she sees 
you, madam " (and here he bowed low), " a raisin' of your 
eyebrows with that grand air, why, then, she 'as somehow 
to stop a listenin' ; but I 'm not a-satisfyin' you because my 
heart 's set on the trail, an' I can't give my mind to my 
work, an' as you two ladies don't like to 'ave me sit 'ere an' 
entertain you, why I thinks as 'ow, if we can square up ac- 
counts, we 'd better give one more o' those big dinners" 
(rubbing his stomach again) " and Zeke will do as you 
asked 'im to, — make room for another. 'Ere 's my ac- 
count, marm, of what you 've advanced me : 

" Tent fixings $32.00 

Fry pan and coffeepot 2.50 

Tools 2.00 

Shoes 2. co 

Tobacco 1.50 

" Great Julius Cczsar! 'ave n't had any for the past week an 
it grates on a man's nerves. 

" Socks $0.30 

" 'Ad to 'ave one pair. 

" Pencils $0.50 

Medicine 1 .00 

"I 've been 'ere fifteen days at five dollars a day and there 's 
over thirty dollars a-comin' to me, but I '11 stay another 
week to get a little more ahead before starting. 
" Then I 've bought for you two ladies 

" Knife $1.50 

Bread (2 loaves) 50 

Fish 1. 00 

Pan 1. 00 

Ice 2.00 

" Is that correct ? A foot-stool ? Yer want it I presume 
because Zeke's a-talkin' too much. — All right, I '11 have the 
pleasure of giving it to you, madam, in two shakes of a 
lamb's tail." 

Next came Mr. Jones with the account ot our expenses 
during the mine visiting, which he was very reluctant to 
submit to us, only doing so after repeated requests : 



Our Man Friday 203 

Room at Half-way House.. $ 5.00 Room at Coffee House $5.00 

Meals 10.00 Ferry 2.50 

Room at Forks 10.00 Boat 1.00 

The bill for Isaacs' s meals and for the horse still to come ! 
As it was pay-day, M next submitted his account : 

Oars $6.00 2 assistants $ 5.00 

Oar-locks 2.00 Help in pulling tent 3.50 

Salmon 1.00 Extra help 2.00 

Salmon 75 10 pounds rice 2.50 

Veal 1. 00 Tackle 4.00 

Bread 1.00 Poles for tent 7.25 

Two water buckets 4.00 Marketing 5.00 

Bread 50 Isaac's grub for month ... 28. 10 

Dishes 1.50 Assistant 2.50 

6 towels 3.75 Nails 1.50 

Rope 6.75 Gallon coal oil 2.50 

While we were examining accounts, Isaacs had disappeared 
entirely. We sent out search parties for him in vain, and 
finally saw him rowing back from Dawson. After securing 
the boat, he ran up the bank and towards the tent, shouting, 
" I 've been to see the Louise, and I tell you ladies she 's a 
beauty. Yes, I know there 's lots to be done before night, 
but I went in my lunch hour," said he, as he prepared him- 
self a more elaborate luncheon than we had had time for. 

Dr. C had kindly brought us over a 12 x 14 tent to erect 

inside of ours, in which to sleep and dress, that we might 
not only suffer less from the cold, but have more privacy than 
screens and curtains permitted. " Come in here, John, and 
help me get up this tent," called Isaacs from behind the 
screen to Jones who was paying us a visit, but who immedi- 
ately obeyed the summons and worked like a trooper until 
the nice comfortable quarters were prepared. The ground 
inside was covered with evergreen boughs, while a mound 
of them was made in each corner, on which our hammocks, 

mattresses, and rugs were placed. Mrs. B came for an 

hour and told us of many amusing incidents occurring in 
town, but as she writes them to her paper I reluctantly re- 
frain from writing them down. 



204 Two Women in the Klondike 

At 7.15 we sat down to dinner. Our table faces the water, 

and before we had finished we saw M , R , Von 

M , and D stepping out of their boats and com- 
ing up the bank to our tent. Then followed Dr. H , to 

introduce Mr. L, , then Mr. F (apologising for the 

non-appearance of Mr. C , who was ill with laryngitis). 

Such a jolly crowd ! We had airs from the music-box, 

R played the mandolin, and then they called for the 

zither. Finally, the graphophone was asked for, but as it 

had been put out of order the first night, K said it could 

not be used, and would not allow the " boys " to try and re- 
pair it ; but they coaxed with such good effect, that they 
finally managed to gain her consent and shortly after we 
were listening to the Ravings of John McCullough, until our 
blood curdled and we shivered as we called for a xylophone 
solo and some lively quartettes. 

Judge and Mrs. B , of Santa Clara, had sent by us a 

bag of clothing and goodies to be delivered to their two sons 
in Dawson, but although they had left before our arrival, 

we were told that F and C were their heirs. We 

jokingly told the former that we had no written instructions 
to that effect, but would take his word for it, and the pre- 
sentation was made with great ceremony. No sooner had 
the " boys " heard that there were three boxes of Maskey's 

chocolates in the bag, than they fell upon F and forced 

him to open it. He immediately presented one box to 
me, but as we were soon to " go out" I preferred that it 
should be enjoyed 03^ those who had another two years to 
remain. The chocolates were seized without further cere- 
mony, and disappeared so rapidly that F thought it 

necessary to sit on the bag for the remainder of the evening. 



CHAPTER XIX 

ISAACS, THE IRREPRESSIBLE 

Tuesday, August 16th. 

SUCH a night's rest in the little tent ! My head kept 
sliding down hill, until I dreamed that H was 

dying and my every energy was being expended on trying 
in vain to get to her. The air is now so cold and chill that 
we have on our sealskin wraps besides being heavily clad in 
winter flannels. Never before have we so longed for the in- 
tense rays of the sun. The heat from the stove on which 
our breakfast is being cooked makes no impression even on a 
corner of this immense tent. The irrepressible performs 
his morning tasks to a running accompaniment. " Parrot ! 
you 'd better get rid o' her — get someone to buy her, she re- 
quires too much care and attention. You 'd better not pre- 
sent her to Miss K ; she 'd have an apoplectic fit." Here 

he breaks into song, " I can't believe her faithless, those 
eyes of tender blue." Working at the stove-pipe. " Now 
would n't that cook you, working away at this the 'ole 
bloomin' morning and then finding it 's no go? 'Ow did 
you sleep last night ? Oh, if you 've got no more sense than 
to put yer 'ead where the 'eels ought to 'a' been, o' course 
yer ought to expect the punishment. Now that there Cap- 
tain E , did you ever hear tell as 'ow 'e staked hout the 

'ole water-front, a callin' it placer-claims? 

" Ma used to say that a little elbow grease and a scrubbin' 
o' the corners worked wonders. ' Scrub the corners o' the 
pans, Zeke,' says she, ' an' the middle '11 take care o' itself.' 
She was a great philosopher was ma. Yes 'm, hot water in 

205 



206 Two Women in the Klondike 

a 'andful o' seconds. Oh, by gosh ! I 'm so sorry you 
did n't see one o' those pigeons last night. I had a 'ot fire, 
a bakin' o' bread, when I '11 be durned if 'e did n't light on 
the top o' the stove and stand there for two or three seconds, 
and then 'e 'eld hup one foot and looked at it and then the 
other before 'e concluded that there was somethink wrong 
an' flew away. Whoa, Pat ! My goodness ! 'ere I 've drove 
this 'ere stake down four feet an now I 've got to take it out 
again, coz the pigeons '11 roost right over it ; everythink 
ought ter be covered up until those there pigeons are either 
killed or sold." 

" Isaacs, do try and keep the butter covered ; here it is 
open again with all the dust and dirt falling into it, and 
you 've been requested so many times to cover it." — 
" See here, I wish you ladies would find something com- 
plimentary to say once in a while." — " You must not be 
impertinent." — "I 'm not impertinent, I 'm only just 
speakin' the truth ; it 's rather painful sometimes. Heave 
ho ! Here 's the stake down. Sally 's in our alley. Sup- 
pose I 'm getting a roast now," said he, as I took up pen 
and paper. " Here goes, — here 's your rope to hang your 
dresses on ; why don't you turn them ? This is the way 
mother used to do it. All right, I '11 do your way; it 's just 
as well to learn new ways ; my wife won't do a thing to me 
when she sees what I 've learned. Say, why don't you 
have your clothes made reversible ? Then it would save 
freight and people would think you 'ad a pile o' clothes when 
you 'ad n't. Say, is n't it surprisin' 'ow many times you 
can go to sleep an' wake up in the night — in one night ? " 

K had put some macaroni to soak, but when she looked 

for the large cheese it had disappeared. After a long search, 
it finally became evident that it was not in the tent. " Now, 
Isaacs," said K — , " you know you said you loved cheese, 
and if ever you stole anything it would be that." " Guess 
the dog must 'a' taken it, marm," said Isaacs; "that 
macaroni 's awful good, but just think 'ow good it would 'a' 

been with cheese. Mrs. H , there 's only one favour I 'd 

ever ask of you, and that is, to send me a copy o' that book 



2o8 Two Women in the Klondike 

you 're a writin'. I '11 bet I 'm getting a roasting in it ! Why 

don't you write a book, Miss V ? You don't seem to 

write much, but p'raps you make up for it when you do get 
started. Oh, you lazy old dog, just a layin' there enjoy in' 
of yourself, whiles everybody works 'ard." 

" Visit from Dr. H ," announced Isaacs. " Any feet 

to be bandaged this morning ? Any invalids to be attended to, 
or any commissions in town ? I 'm going over if there 's 
nothing I can do for you here. ' ' He had already done so 
well by us that after one visit we were off the sick list. 

" Would you like a cup o' coffee Miss V ? I put some 

water on these grounds — not bad at all," and Isaacs' s voice 
broke forth afresh. ' ' Did you ever eat any bear meat ? 
Would you like to try some ? My chum 's going down 
after some ; he 's going twelve miles down the river with a 
couple of Indians. I don't know will he bring any back or 
not. I ain't 'eard that parrot to-day. Everybody 's deaf ; 
no one answers," he grumbled, and quiet reigned for a few 
moments. 

5 p.m. Return of Mr. Q . " Why did n't you tell me 

I 'd need a scow for your mail," said he, as he handed sixty 
letters to me and almost as many to E. Scarcely had we 

begun to read them when Mr. O came with a friend from 

Dawson whom he wished to present. The former intended 
to have a grand opening of his new liquor saloon and begged 
us to sell to him our British and American flags, but we could 
not spare them. However, we allowed him to have some 
small pictures of Dewey, Sampson, Sigsbee, and General 
L,ee. Everyone is now anxious for the picture of the new 
hero, Schley, but, unfortunately, it was not ready when we 

left San Francisco. Mr. O next admired a beautiful 

calendar which E had given me for a Christmas gift and 

which was tied to the screen with blue ribbons. As E 

and I have both decided to " go out " light, that is, to take 
nothing unnecessary back with us over the trail, she nodded 

her assent to this disposition of the calendar, which O 

carried off triumphantly. Just then two of our fellow- 
passengers from San Francisco entered — the mother and 



Isaacs, the Irrepressible 209 

daughter who had been so enterprising in buying out 
laundry, swimming-baths, and shop under one roof. They 
agreed to take our linen for two dollars a dozen, which was 
exceedingly reasonable compared with the six dollars asked 
in Dawson. They had been farther than we on the trail, 
had staked out some claims, and, in two months, intended to 
give up their establishment and begin working their mines. 
During dinner Isaacs approached, drew up an empty box 
on which he seated himself, and said, " Now that I have a 
few moments to spare, an' a few things to say, I '11 try and 
fix the graphophone for you. As you 've 'ad such a big 
mail an' been readin' letters to each other from dukes and 
duchesses, an markeeses and princes, it must seem funny to 
you to stop an' talk to a fellow like me, but it takes all kinds 
to make a world, an' you can't tell what I '11 be three years 
from now. I 've never been a menial before, and no one can 
be a good servant unless 'e 's brought up to it, and edu- 
cated for it. Now some 'ow or hother hit hirritates me 

just the very way in which Mrs. H says ' Isaacs.' Yer 

see some people yer can work for an' do everything for, an' 
it 's all right, an 'a pleasure, coz yer can sit down afterwards 
and talk things over like one o' the family, but if once I 
takes a seat like the other in a heasy chair, an' try to be 

sociable, well Mrs. H , she seems to think I 'm out o' 

place, an' I 'm no hypocrite, and won't pretend to like peo- 
ple, and like things, even if I could make a fortune by it. 

You 're all right, Miss V , 'cause you don't mind sittin' 

down and talkin' to me. Now, I say, how would this little 
scheme strike you ? What do you say to givin' Zeke — say 
a hundred dollars —sort of a grub-stake, and I give you my 
word you 'd never lose nothink by it — say fifty dollars 
apiece. Every man about here is coming to you with some 
proposition, — but what 's the matter with lookin' nearer 
home ? Any one with 'arf an eye can see you ladies are not 
going to be taken in, but I laughs to myself when they 
thinks you are because you 've got millions ; but you knows 
how to take care o' yourselves if ever anybody did, and in 
staking Isaacs you 'd be sure to make something hout of hit." 



210 Two Women in the Klondike 

This grand scheme was interrupted by a miner who, with 
five of his partners, was willing to give us half of each of 
their mines, in case we would advance them the money ta 
get them recorded, and give them their grub while working: 
them. Just then " Big A " was announced, most oppor- 
tunely for us, and we consulted him as to the claims offered 
us by these six men. He was kind enough to go carefully 
over the maps with us, explaining clearly the geological 
formation as he had found it, and describing much that he: 
had learned through years of toil and hard experience. 
When our guests took their leave the rain came down in tor- 
rents and the night was so dark that we insisted upon pro- 
viding them with lanterns and umbrellas, as without the 
light of the former they could never have found their way 
through the boats that lined the banks of the Yukon. 

Wednesday, August 17th. 

" Isaacs, you left the fire burning last night in the oil- 
stove and we almost had an explosion, to say nothing of 
losing the entire gallon of oil." — " Holy Moses ! I 'm. 
always doing somethink. I say, did it rain in this tent last 
night ? Golly, how it rained through mine ! " 

We had requested our " help " to come at eight o'clock 
and have breakfast ready at nine, but it was after nine be- 
fore he came sauntering in, and we two frightened women 
dared say nothing. On the previous day, when spoken to- 
concerning a similar offence, he confided to the parrot in a. 
stage whisper that ' ' just because a fellow's watch was wrong, 
'e must be jumped on for it." E told him what to pre- 
pare for luncheon, but he seemed to take great pleasure in. 
acting contrary to her orders, and continued his arrange- 
ments as though she had not spoken. Finally I thought it. 
necessary to interfere, saying, " I cannot allow you to dis- 
obey Miss V . Did you not hear her forbid you to do- 

what you are now doing ? " ' ' Oh, I ' eard all right enough, ' ' 
said he, continuing to disobey ; " but some'ow or hother 
horders hirritates me, an Hi 'd rather take the conse- 
quences than be bossed. Yer gives a fellow 'is grub, just. 



Isaacs, the Irrepressible 211 

such as 'e uses when 'e'sa working at the mines, and then 
you 'as all the delicacies of the season and just lets a fellow 
smell 'em. Why Zeke 'd be han hidjit, mum, to confine 
himself to miner's grub when 'e can 'ave such luxuries, and 
'e 's a-going to take 'em an' take the consequences hevery 
time." " Then," said I, gathering courage, " the quicker 
you pack up and leave the better." " Yes 'm," said he, 
smiling sardonically, " but I '11 'ave one good breakfast 
first." With that he seated himself, neglecting his own 
bacon, beans, and customary food, and helped himself to 
some of the few delicacies which we had brought to tide us 
over until the arrival of our stores. 

Before leaving San Francisco, finding that we were allowed 
but a thousand pounds freight on the Alaska Commercial 
Company's steamer, and that our boxes weighed very nearly 
that, to say nothing of the tent, music-box and other heavy 
articles, we decided to send our supplies, which we purchased 
for the winter in case of being accidentally frozen in, by an- 
other line. From one company to the other we went, but 
no one would guarantee sending freight up the river by the 
first steamer except the Johnson-L,ocke Company, of which 
M wrote us that it was thoroughly reliable. The repre- 
sentative in their office assured us that not only should the 
goods start on the same day as we — June nth — but also that 
they should go up the Yukon at once, with no detention at St. 
Michaels, adding that they would probably arrive in Dawson 
before us. Upon this we purchased so large a cargo that the 
freight alone cost us very nearly five hundred dollars, and 
took with us only enough delicacies and solid provisions to 
last a few weeks. We had also been informed that the 
Johnson-Locke Company and the Joseph L,adue Company 
were identical. The contract, however, has not yet been 
fulfilled, and we are impatiently awaiting the arrival of the 
much needed stores. 

After Isaacs had finished his breakfast, his soliloquies re- 
commenced. " Now I '11 clean up hevery think, Polly, and 
let them see how nice heverythink looks when Isaacs goes 
away ; Hi 've 'ad enough o' being bossed by women, an' I 



212 Two Women in the Klondike 

don't want any more of it." He smiled a smile of childlike 
innocence as he deliberately poured out the hot water which 
he had been told to prepare for my manicuring, and the 
smile broadened as he saw me search for a tin pan of cold 

water to be used in its place. He called E to go over 

the list and see that all was correct, making sarcastic little 
remarks as he did so. Finally, as we were seated in the re- 
ception room part of the tent, he approached, and seating 
himself on an empty box, said, " Now, ladies (I suppose you 
call yourself ladies after bossing a poor fellow who 's down 
on his luck and trying to make 'im do your way instead o' 
'is), I'vea few words to say. I 've never been a menial be- 
fore and don't like it, an' I 'm not going to be bossed any 
longer and never allowed to come an' sit 'ere with you." 

K said something about servants, but before she could 

get any further he thundered, " Servant ! servant ! great 
Julius Caesar ! 'ow dare you call me a servant ? 'Ave n't I 
told you a 'undred times that I 'm not a servant ? I just — " 
" Isaacs, I cannot allow you to be impertinent to Miss 

V ," said I, gathering courage to interfere, and walking 

to the tent door to let him see that, although we were only 
two lone women, there were plenty of neighbours on whom 
to call for assistance. " I don't call it impertinent ; you 've 
'ad your say, and, by golly, I 'm goin' to 'ave mine. Why, 

d n it, d' yer think a man can't speak out and that you 're 

a-goin' to 'ush 'im hup an' not let 'im free 'is mind ? Well, 

I just guess not." Fortunately, the voice of Mr. Q was 

heard at this point calling to know if we had any commis- 
sions for town ; then came Jones and J and Dr. H . 

Isaacs was paid off, and left without so much as saying good- 
bye, after cutting a little wood and bringing water in accord- 
ance with E 's request. 

At i p.m., while Mrs. T was calling and asking for 

contributions for the new hospital, which we most willingly 
promised, Jones kindly rowed me over to the Recorder's 
office, where I went to record a bench claim on El Dorado 
and one on Bear Creek. Being a woman, I was at once ad- 
mitted into the private office ahead of the long line of men, 



214 Two Women in the Klondike 

and, although I felt sorry for them, my feet were not yet in 
condition to stand and wait my turn, so I resolved to delay the 
line as short a time as possible. I then went to the Alaska 
Commercial Company and followed the Dawson habit of 
sitting on the counter and swinging my feet while giving 

orders. I was immediately joined by M , Dr. C , 

Captain F and others who wanted to know how a 

citified woman had managed to get up on the counter and 
identify herself so soon with the Dawsonites. " After that 
long tramp over the mountains, marshes, and rolling stones, 
an Y gymnastic feat is easy," said I, " and then the miners 
give me valuable bits of information here which they never 
would dream of doing if I did not make myself one of them." 
The men promised to scour the town again in search of a 

cook for us. I next went to the Consul's to deliver E 's 

letters that were to go in the official mail ; had a chat with 

my old fellow-passenger, Mr. W , who said that he 

arrived in Dawson while we were out on the trail. Asked 
the price of an acetylene bicycle lamp ; such as we had pur- 
chased in San Francisco, with fifteen pounds of calcium car- 
bide for four dollars, the merchant wanted forty dollars — 
the best investment yet discovered in case they are really 
salable. 

At last, all commissions finished, I crawled under wharves, 
over ropes, and through mud to reach good Jones's boat, which 
had been shut in by the Ora, and the peaceful row across 
the river was most grateful after the noise and bustle of the 

town. On reaching the tent, I found Von M playing my 

zither most beautifully, Dr. C , Captain F , and J , 

who had all come to offer their services to get wood, or water, 
or anything else we might need. Then came the Rev. Dr. 

D , with Mr. H to inquire if he might hold religious 

services on Sunday next. He had been to HI Dorado to 
superintend the funeral services of a man who had been 
smothered in a mine, leaving a widow and nine children. 

At 6 p.m. the faithful Jones rowed E and me over to 

the Fairview Hotel, where M had invited us to dine, 

and the dinner made our poor attempts seem almost ludi- 



Isaacs, the Irrepressible 215 

crous. M was awaiting us, and had a table in the corner 

of a goodly-sized dining-room. He had ordered a mando- 
linist, a guitarist, and a banjoist, and the proprietor, the 
proprietress, and manager came often to the table to inquire 
how we were pleased. The menu will probably be of inter- 
est to those who think of starvation and hardships at mention 
of the Klondike : Eastern oysters on ice ; tomato soup in 
cups ; salmon, sauce Hollandaise ; sweetbreads and mush- 
rooms ; green peas, chops and mushrooms ; chicken en 
casserole ; lettuce salad ; preserved pears, cheese, biscuit, 
uuts, raisins, cafe noir — washed down with German wine ; 
even bon-bons were passed. 

After dinner we walked down to the Ora to view the accom- 
modations in case we should decide to go out by her. Deck 
so narrow that one had to cling to the side to keep from fall- 
ing overboard. There was one room with twelve bunks, one 
with two, one on either side with one. No linen or blankets 
were provided, and everything was filthy. We almost de- 
cided at once to return down the Yukon the same way by 
which we came. After travelling such a distance, however, 
it seems a great pity to miss the grandeur of the scenery 
over the Pass, and by thinking of Turkish and Russian 
Eaths and shampoo parlors to be found at the end of the 
journey, and an entire new outfit, we shall probably screw 
up our courage and take the plunge. A magnificent new 
steamer of the North American Transportation Company 
with electric lights and all the luxuries hitherto unknown in 
these regions, was lying at the dock and attracting general 
attention by throwing her search-light in all directions. 

We were next escorted to the private entrance of the theatre, 
where in a box from behind drawn curtains we watched the 
play, Stillwater Willie, and heard some wretched singing from 
girls who were applauded to the echo by their admirers in the 
audience. A sign in the box read, " Gentlemen in private 
boxes are expected to order refreshments," so our enter- 
tainers sent for my usual beverage, lemonade, while the 
others enjoyed crime dc menthe. No checks were given us, 
as M was not present to " jolly " the waiter into doing 



216 Two Women in the Klondike 

so, and he did not dare offer them to " the grand ladies," as 
we are now known, owing to the size of our tent and the 

supposed depth and richness of our purses. M told me 

that Isaacs had been to him for employment that afternoon, 
but that as he did not understand the situation he had put 
him off. We begged him to give him something to do at 
once, and as far away from Dawson as possible, as we feared 
that, his money once spent, we should have him hanging 

about. " Well, that 's what I '11 do, by gosh," said M . 

" I '11 give him something the first thing in the morning, so 
that ye ladies will have nothing further to bother ye." Be- 
fore going into the theatre we were joined by Consul M 

who told us of a grievance he had against the Collector of 
Customs, who was in the same building, but refused to serve 
where the American flag was allowed to fly. The papers 
were full of the case, and boys were crying in the street, 
" Full account of the row in the American Consul's office." 

At ii p.m. M and Jones escorted us to the small boat 

where the former bade us good-night and the latter rowed us 
across. 

Thursday, August 18th. 

A visit from Isaacs this morning, who came to return a 
candlestick, and to tell us that if we wanted to give our regu- 
lar dinner he would be happy to come and cook it for us. 

He asked if we had said anything against him to M , as 

he was hoping to get work from him, having known him 
many years, and if we blocked him, he 'd hate to do it, but 

— here he stopped as he caught my severe glance, and E 

said, " On the contrary, when M spoke to Mrs. H 

last night about you, she begged him by all means to give 
you work, and he said you should certainly have it the first 
thing this morning, so I advise you to go at once." 

" I 've Drought you a Jap cook," called the cheery voice 
of John Jones, from outside the tent, after the departure of 
Isaacs, and in he came, followed by " Frank," who surveyed 
the big tent with much pleasure, saying, ' ' Very nice, very 
nice; very fine ice-cream freezer." After hearing what 
duties he was expected to perform, he decided to go back at 



Isaacs, the Irrepressible 217 

once, bring his household goods to this side, and put them in 
the tent which Mr. Jones kindly offered to loan him. Poor 
John was then called upon to row him back and help him 
over with his stores as soon as possible. We protested 
against taking such advantage of so much kindness, but John 
silenced us by saying, " Why, I never enjoyed myself so 
much in my life as by being allowed to help wait on you 
ladies. I 've got nothing to do until I go out to my mines, 
and might just as well be doing this as anything else ; be- 
sides, it keeps John out o' mischief." i p.m. no cook ; 2 p.m. 
no cook. At 2.30 Mr. Jones returned, saying that the Jap 
weakened on his return to Dawson at the thought of having 
to cross the river each time he wanted to meet his compatriots, 
and decided that it would be too lonely for him, so our kind 
neighbour had brought us back bread and cake in order to 
tide us over while another cook was being searched for. He 
lit the fire for us, went to the spring for a bucket of water, 
and did any number of chores besides. 

The bill came for the horse which B had ordered to 

ride to El Dorado — sixty dollars, which meant thirty dollars 
from 4 p.m. Monday to midnight Tuesday, and ten dollars a 
day until the horse roamed into town of his own free will 
and accord, and we never yet have learned how he crossed 
the ferry. " I 've just had a talk with Isaacs," said kindly 
Jones, " and have told him not to bother you ladies no 
more, not to come here, and not to ask questions as to whether 
you were talkin' about him, as you had n't the time and 
had too much to do to condescend to the likes o' that, so you 
won't never see him no more. As soon as I tie this tent 
down a little tighter, 'cause there's a gale a-comin' up, I '11 
go across and get your bag o' mail, as they say there 's 
plenty of it a-waitin' for you at the post-office ; " so off he 
went, and down came the rain, which we are now receiving 
almost daily, though luckily in April showers only. 

Hardly had he disappeared when we heard at the tent 

door, " Well I 've got me lay. A 's just given me the 

best thing," and in rushed Isaacs, his face radiant ; " it '11 
bring me in perhaps thirty or forty thousand dollars ; going 



218 Two Women in the Klondike 

to send me up to Sulphur ; cabin 's already built, all royal- 
ties paid, no expenses, and me to 'ave charge of all the men. 
Could n't 'a' been better ! I tell you, he 's treated me fine. 
Yer see I was goin' up to the Rockies, but '11 give it up now. 
'E wants me to go to-day, but I 've got hall me washin' to 
soak and so 've got to wait till to-morrow night. Could n't 
yer let me 'ave some o' me grub ? You '11 never be able to 
use all the flour and other things you 've got on hand, an' 
I '11 pay yer somethink on it. Well, ladies, me fortune 's 
made, an' if you comes up next summer pr'aps Zeke '11 be 
one o' the Bonanza Kings, and be able to have the pleasure 
o' entertainin' you." And off went the irrepressible. Never 
agaiu, in any part of the world, will it be possible to discover 
another character so unique and combining so queer a mix- 
ture of drollery, unconscious impertinence, and kindliness. 
" I say, I 've just come back to arsk if you 'ad n't some 
papers, books, or magazines to spare ? or could you let me 
'ave some candles ? but if you can't spare the candles I can 
save me bacon grease and manage some kind o' a light out o' 
that. Zeke 's handy, and you ladies will happreciate it 
when you finds another man to wait on you. Well, Hi 'm 
hoff." 

We managed a cold dinner, B as usual insisting upon 

doing more than her share of the work, saying that she loved 
camping out, and the culinary department in particular. 
John Jones, who had returned empty-handed from the post- 
office, as it was closed when he reached there, said, " Yes, if 
you did n't do the cooking and I did n't bring the water and 

even fill her glass for her, Mrs. H would die of starvation 

and thirst, as she never seems to have time to do nawthin' 
but write, write, write." This shows me up as a very lazy 
member of the party, who only reconciled that quality to her 
conscience by K 's apparent enjoyment in making cer- 
tain dainty dishes, and her pleasure in the appreciation 
which was manifested. 

Scarcely had we finished dinner when Mr. M , Mr. 

R , and Mr. W , the handsome blond Englishman, 

and Judge appeared. M brought a big bag of ice 



Isaacs, the Irrepressible 



219 



to make ice-cream, so one of the " boys " got the tin of con- 
densed cream and opened it, another whipped it, another got 
the sugar, another found the tin of peaches we had sent for, 
which proved to be a tin of pears, so we had to substitute 
strawberry jam. After thoroughly mixing and pouring this 
preparation in the can, the boys stood in line to turn the 
crank, the lazy ones being relieved from duty sooner than 




OUR HELPFUL NEIGHBOURS. 



the bashful ones, who waited for volunteer relief which 
failed to materialise. Such constant opening and tasting ! 
We first discovered that it tasted too much of the cream, so 
added water, as condensed milk made it worse ; then it was 
too weak, and Kirschwasser was found to be just the thing 
for it. At last it was ready, and I said jokingly, " Now, 
boys, pack it down for our luncheon and dinner to-morrow." 
<( No, madam," replied M , " women have special privi- 



220 Two Women in the Klondike 

leges in this country and are always waited upon and treated 
with most distinguished consideration, but when it 's a ques- 
tion of grub, the man is bound to have it every time, and 
with that off came the lid of the can. There was a scramble 
between two of the boys for the paddle which they called the 
wish-bone, as they wanted to show us how clean it could be 
licked by a " Siwash," as they called themselves for the mo- 
ment. Each fellow provided himself with a tin cup, M 

with a tin plate ; the one supposed to have the keenest sense 
of justice was deputised to ladle it out, and the spoonfuls 
were carefully counted so that no one should get a feather's 
weight more than another. Then came the groans and 
grunts of satisfaction, as some of the boys said " the first I 've 
tasted since leaving home. Would n't 'a' missed it for the 
world. Ah, it 's necessary to come to this country to enjoy 
everything ! " Then each fellow was told to hold on to his 
cup while we had some music. 

R played the mandolin, and the Judge the guitar better 

than I have ever heard, and we listened with keenest en- 
joyment as they rendered Cavalleria Rusticana, Abe?idstern y 
T?'aviata, Lucia, and many other airs. A second round of 

ice-cream and cake was next in order, and M was accused 

of getting more on his plate than anyone else could put in a 
cup, against which assertion he protested in his ludicrous 
way, saying, "I '11 bet I 've lifted down less than any other 
fellow here." 

It began to get so cold that we put on our sealskins while 

M and R rolled themselves up in fur robes and 

looked like bears. Our illumination consisted of three 
candles and a lantern. 

At half-past ten it was still colder, so the boys bade us 
good-night and started for their canoes which speedily took 
them to Dawson and their warm little cabins. Then came 
the voice of Jones saying, " I waited up until your guests 
had left, to see if I could n't fetch you some water or do 
something for you. Well, if you don't want nothing, I '11 be 
saying good night." How we congratulated ourselves that 
Dr. C had loaned us the nice little tent into which we 






Isaacs, the Irrepressible 



221 



crawled to our beds, only to find that Ivan, also feeling the 
cold, had snuggled himself in among the rugs on my air- 
mattress from which the air had entirely escaped, owing to 
the crack in the seam and his weight combined. We 
shivered and shook as we undressed and wrapped ourselves 
in our fur robes, and thought of the comforts of the homes 
we had left behind us, but never once did we dream of re- 
gretting having taken the trip, of which each new experience 
added to its interest. We also felt that upon returning to 
luxurious civilisation it would seem hard to breathe the 
stifling air of a city. 




CHAPTER XX 



OUR HKLPFUIv NEIGHBOURS 



Friday, August 19th. 

AT 9 a.m. Jones came bringing us a bucket of fresh water 
from the spring ; then offered to cut some wood, and 
light our fire for us, and also to do our shopping in Dawson, 
objecting to our going, on account of the typhoid fever. So 
off the good fellow went with our list of commissions, saying 
in answer to my protests, " It 's no use ; I shall never be 
able to do enough for you after your kindness to me, when 
you 'd only heard of me as the ' sick boy.' " Next came 

Mr. Q , who also said, " If there are any commissions 

for town this morning, you must give them to me and not 
show your faces on the other side of the river ; two thousand 
are down with typhoid fever, and I saw a poor girl carried 
in a chair to the hospital yesterday. It 's a lucky thing 
you 're on this side of the Yukon. The ' old girl ' wants to 
be rowed over, and asked me to take her, but she 's not yet 
ready. " " Who is it you call the ' old girl ' ? " said I. ' ( Oh, 
that woman who always goes about in men's clothing. She 
went to the post-office and walked into the ladies' entrance, 
when they called out to her, ! The other door, sir, the other 
door ; can't you hear ? That door is only for ladies.' 'But 
I am a lady,' she answered. ' Well, you don't look it,' was 

the reply." We laughed at Q 's story, but declared that 

it must have been manufactured on the spur of the moment, 
as the Canadian officials are noted for their kindness and 
courtesy to those of our sex. 

This conversation was interrupted by the arrival of Isaacs, 



224 Two Women in the Klondike 

whose face has been beaming with smiles since the appoint- 
ment made by M . " Just came to see if I could bring 

water or wood for you ladies." — " No, thank you, Isaacs, we 
have been well cared for." — " Good-morning, then, but call 
upon Zeke for any think you likes, an' 'e '11 'ave a chance of 
hentertaining you yet, and in fine style, too." For lunch- 
eon, we opened a tin of tomato soup, and had warmed-over 
fish with evaporated potatoes, followed by prunes. Von 

M came with a bucket of fresh water. K brought 

us a large bag of kindling chips, but there was no sign of 
Jones, who had promised to row me to town at two o'clock 
to record my claim. At seven he made his appearance with 

Mr. A , of Chicago, whom we had met on the trail. The 

latter had returned only the previous night, and, after having 
thoroughly prospected many creeks, had struck it enormously 
rich and had come back not only to record, but to tell us 
where to stake. 

While K was having a private business conversation 

with the partner of M , who has left for his claims on 

Quartz, Jones had time to apologise for not having turned 
up at two o'clock to row me over to the Record Office. 
Someone had stolen his boat, or rather ' ' borrowed ' ' it, and 
he had spent the entire afternoon with one of the mounted 
police searching for it, only to see, towards evening, " two 
kids " leisurely rowing home in it. " I tell you I was hot 
with rage," said Jones, " and would 'a' had them arrested 
right then and there, only I found that their mother was a 
poor lady keepin' a restaurant for a livin', so I could n't do 
it ; but I just says to her, ' Mebbe you think I ain't hot 
'cause I talks so perlite to a lady, but I had an engagement 
at two o'clock that I would n't 'a' broken for the world, and 
I don't know what them ladies '11 think o' me. Now you 've 
either got to promise to give them kids o' yours a good talk- 
in' to, or I '11 have to take them in hand. Why, they could 
'a' drifted right down to Circle.' " Later we heard a great 
shouting and ordering, as though a regiment were being 
drilled, and rushed to the tent door to catch our first glimpse 
of a real dog team at work hauling logs. The sun was in 



226 Two Women in the Klondike 

such a position that no picture could be taken at the time r 
but it was a most interesting sight, as the dogs appeared to 
work with a will. Ivan seemed to understand, and disap- 
peared lest he should be enrolled in service, just as my cabin- 
boy on the barge did as we approached a wood-pile on the 
river, after calling out to one of his chums, " Wood to be 
cut ! those who don't want to work had better make them- 
selves scarce." 

J , K , Dr. H , and Jones spent the evening. 

K said he had just been making a batch of bread, and 

E exclaimed, " Oh, do show me how you make it up 

here, and I ' 11 do some myself, for goodness knows whether 
we '11 ever get another cook. The men are all so wild to go 
on the trail that they turn up their noses at five dollars a 

day and grub ; besides, I love to cook, and Mrs. H is 

most appreciative and never finds fault if things don't come 
out right." " That 's the way we all have to be up here," 

said J . " We can only say in the most polite manner 

possible, ' This bread is awfully good, but don't you think 
it would be better for a little more salt ? But it 's delicious 
all the same ! ' or ' This pie is as heavy as lead, but I could n't 
begin to make anything so nice myself ; and then we must 
find lots to praise about it or straightway the messmate 
throws up the job and one has to cook for himself, and you 
know there are some lazy fellows who hate to do anything." 
" That 's easily cured in France," said the Doctor. " Do 
you know how they fix the fellows in jail who won't work ?' 
They put them in a cell and let in the water, but give them 
a pump, and if ever they stop pumping they drown, so they 
dare not stop. So you 're going over to town to-morrow, 

Mrs. H , to record claims. Well, don't touch a drop of 

water while you 're there, because the water even from the 
creek flows first over the bones of a tribe of dead Indians." 
— " What a yarn ! " — " No, it 's an honest fact. Don't you. 
see that steep embankment over there ? That was formed 
by a slide which buried an entire Indian village." — " How 
long ago ? " — " Oh, about a hundred years or so." 

" I saw two bears on top of that embankment yesterday."' 



Our Helpful Neighbours 



227 



— " Now, Mrs. H , that 's a yarn ! You mean horses, 

although I don't see how they could have climbed there." 
<( No, they were n't horses," I stoutly protested; "they 
were bears, real, live bears, on the very steepest part, and I 
watched them from this side for some time." As the in- 
credulous ones laughed, good John came to my rescue, say- 
ing, " Yes, I seen 'em, too, and would 'a' gone for 'em if I 'd 




LEARNING TO CHOP WOOD. 



'a' had my rifle." Then the little company really became 
excited and begged me to call them the very next time these 
animals made their appearance, promising me some of the 
finest bear-meat ever tasted. ' ■ Now, little one, what can I 
do for you next before saying good-night, for I 'm off to my 
tent?" I gasped in astonishment at the new appellation, 
but dared not quarrel with so kind a friend and assistant, 
so begged him to go to the spring and get us some fresh 



228 Two Women in the Klondike 

water. In passing, he whispered to me, " I seen them little 
fists o' yours clench when I said ' little one.' They could n't 
hurt a flea, an' I ain't afraid o' them, an' don't you be afraid 
o' John, 'cause he would n't touch a hair o' your head, but 
somehow or other I have a kind o' weakness for you what 
makes me always want to speak kinder tender-like to you, 
but it don't mean nothin' for you to take offence at. You 
just tell me what you don't want me to say and don't 
you never be afraid o' John. Good-night ! " 

Saturday, August 20th. 

1 ' Good-morning, ' ' said the Doctor. ' ' Anybody up yet ? ' ' 
Mr. Jones's voice was next heard, asking what he could do 
for us. He got us water, chopped wood, and made himself 
generally useful. " Here 's your bread-board. May I bring 

it in ? " said Mr. K . "I think you 're going to have a 

fine batch ! Can I help you ? Well, then, I must go back 

and wash my dishes." Then came Von M , with his 

offer to help. " That bread will not be ready in time for 
luncheon, you 'd better let me lend you a loaf of mine. I 've 
just finished it, and I make better bread than anyone else 
in West Dawson," so off he ran, and, as he returned with it, 

we heard him say to K , " Now you just come in and 

turn green with envy as you hear the praise I '11 get for this 
bread." Forewarned in time, we appreciated it to the fullest 

extent, while K said, " Yes, but just look how it sinks 

in the middle." " Never mind, young man, wait until you 
can show us something better." " What are you going to 
do with all your papers, magazines, and books when you 

leave?" asked Q , entering. " Divide them among 

our kindly, helpful neighbours ; but our papers are so old 
now," said I. " That cuts no figure — you just try being 
shut in here this winter with nothing to read and see how 
nice even the oldest papers will seem." — " Well, you 'd bet- 
ter take your portion now," and they rapidly gathered them 
up, not taking the time even to pick or choose. 

" How 's the bread getting on ? K and I have come 

back to help you knead it, and to finish up all the small 



Our Helpful Neighbours 229 

chores, now that our housework is done, ' ' and they set to work 
with such a will that the tent soon looked cleaner than ever 
since the day of arrival. " You may have lunch for that," 

said K ; " which do you prefer, tomato soup, minced 

clams, or macaroni and cheese ? " — " Oh, can't we have some 
of each ? " — " Not a bit of it. We can't afford to open any 
more tins than necessary before the arrival of our stores." 








DOGS HAULING LOGS. 

" They all sound so good it 's hard to choose, ' ' wailed K . 

The menu was soon decided upon. I prepared the table, 

Von M opened the tins, K cut the loaf of bread, 

brought the butter, filled the tin cups with water, and we 
sat down with such appetites that we soon finished two tins 
of macaroni and cheese. We used the same plates for our 
bean salad, and then indulged in the luxury of clean tin plates 

for Bartlett pears. K and B washed the dishes 

while Von M and I cleared the table and put the things 



230 Two Women in the Klondike 

away, and then practised the zither, Von M playing ex- 
quisitely. How strange it seems to find so much talent and 
so many college graduates in this part of the world, and how 
they laugh over their cooking and housekeeping^, cares, and 
what a huge joke it seems ! Yet it all combines to make up 
the curious life of which so many at home read with intense 
interest, never knowing the details that form the character 
of a Klondike King, or are the cause of the return of disap- 
pointed, broken-hearted miners. 

" Is this Mrs. H ? " and a head appeared at the tent 

door. " Excuse me, but someone said you wanted to take 
a picture o' my dog team, an' if you really do they 're haul- 
ing a log for me now and I '11 fix them any way you want 

them to stand." Out we rushed, Von M armed with 

camera, I with Kodak, and took views not only of the dog 
team, but also of some of our neighbours' tents and cabins. 

1 ' What a magnificent dog ! ' ' called out a passer-by ; ' ' he ' d 
draw as much as a whole team together." " Have you 
ladies any sweetened milk?" said a strange voice. " My 
partner 's ill, and needs some, an' the folks say you have 
everything. Thank you so much ! shall I pay for it now, or 
return it to you later ? What ! give it to me ? But I don't 
like to take it. Well, if you insist ; but it 's mighty good 
of you. No, I can't think of nothin' else. It 's hard to 
make him eat." Finally, as the last of our visitors disap- 
peared, our good neighbour Jones arrived, saying, " I 
knowed yer 'd be a-needin' me for to git yer up a fire for to 
cook yer dinner and so I just rowed across from Dawson. 
Don't you want me to make yer up some nice biscuit? " 
The dishes were soon prepared and cooked. We seated our- 
selves at table and ate with the usual hearty appetite, insist- 
ing upon Jones remaining to share our modest fare. " L,et 
me ' bust ' your biscuit for you," said he, as I took one from 

the plate which K passed me. " Them little fins o' 

yourn ain't strong enough for that. I can't help it, Miss 

V ," said he, glancing at K . " It just seems as 

though she 'd orter be waited on all the time. She 's got 
some kind o' electricity that makes me feel like talkin' 



Our Helpful Neighbours 23 l 

tender-like to her. Now you sit still and lemme wash the 
dishes, coz she can't do it, an' you 've worked hard all day." 
But here I protested, put on an apron, heated the water, and 
worked with a will. 

In the midst of it, while Jones was wiping the tin plates 
and cups, and I, with sleeves rolled up, was deep in dish- 
water, K called out, ' ' Do come in here ; Mr. W is 

approaching the tent with a strange man." The handsome 

youth introduced his friend Mr. M to K , then said, 

4i May n't I come behind the screen and shake hands with 
you ? Besides, I 'm awfully good at washing dishes ; do let 
me help you " ; so, with two assistants, the kitchen was soon 
in apple-pie order, and we were seated in steamer-chairs, 
while the men threw themselves on rugs, or on the grass in 
the reception-room. Jones insisted upon going over to town 
to do our commissions and returned with steak, coal-oil, and 
the graphophone, which had been again repaired for us. 
Everyone wanted to hear it, and between the Ravings of a 
Maniac, Face on the Bar-room Floor, and stories told by differ- 
ent members of the party, we were in such a state of terror 
that we made poor Jones bring his fur robes and sleep in the 
reception-room of the " big tent," while we shut ourselves 
up in the little one with Ivan lying before the door on guard. 

Sunday, August 21st. 
A cold, chilly morning, but we were up early and had 
breakfast before we heard any signs of life from the other 
side of the tent. Then there was a yawn, and a shout of 
" What ! you folks up already? Just wait a moment, an' 
I '11 be dressed and round to chop wood and make the fire 

before you kin say Jack Robinson." " Mrs. H has 

built three fires," called E , " and they 've all gone out, 

so I 've made the coffee on the oil-stove." " Oh, them little 
hands o' hers can't make nothin' — she 's gotter wait fer 
John. Now don't you do no more work, little one," said 
he ; " John 's all ready for to set the table, do the cookin, an' 
everything else. Here 's your hot water for to manicure 
them little hands o' yourn, so you just sit down an' be quiet 



232 Two Women in the Klondike 

an' happy, coz I knows you 're always happy when yer gits 
them little fins o' yourn in water. You have to keep yer 
nails short, don't you ? " and as he looked as if expecting an 
interrogative reply, he was rewarded by being asked why ? 
" Coz yer fingers is so little that if you let them grow 
yer 'd hide 'em. Nothing but nails would show." As he 

was working over the stove, and K- was dishing up the 

oatmeal, a strong gust of wind blew the tent flap into the fire. 
In a moment it was in a blaze, and, as the others caught sight 
of it, before they could move I had a large bag of salt on 
the fire, pounded the rest out with my fists too rapidly to 
burn them, and then threw a bucket of water over the 
smouldering embers. " Bravo, little one ! Did n't she do 
that well ? Did you ever see the likes o' that ? Well, upon 
my word! she had it out before we could move, and me think- 
ing them little fins could n't do nothing. Well, I take it all 
back. ' ' But, notwithstanding all his praise, it never equalled 
that I was showering on myself, as it was the first time I had 
ever shown any presence of mind in danger, having been 
paralysed with fright on many another occasion. 

" Here 's a note for Mrs. H from M . Says you 

want a cook," said a young man outside the tent door. 
" I 'm cook on one of the North American Transportation 
Company's steamers, but want to stay in Dawson this winter, 
so should like to cook for you two ladies, as I hear you give 
five dollars a day and grub, and that 's much more than I 'm 
getting now. ' ' — ' ' But you are giving up a permanent position 
for something which may not last more than a fortnight, and 
you ought to take that into consideration." — " Oh, I did n't 
know that ; then perhaps you '11 let me think it over." 
Breakfast finished, the dishes washed and put away, then 
John helped prepare the pulpit, benches, and rugs for the 
minister and congregation, but no amount of persuasion 
could induce him to remain through the service. " No, 
ma'am, I '11 do anything 3^ou like to ask me to, but no church 
for John ; howsomever, here 's the brush and I 'm going to 
brush my children good, 'cause I 'm proud o' them and want 
to see them look nice." 



234 Two Women in the Klondike 

Rev. Dr. D arrived with two friends from Dawson. I 

tolled the bell, and the little congregation soon assembled. 

Service over, we had a little chat with Mrs. W , the lady 

who had been told to go to the other door of the post-office. 

She also was anxious to meet Mr. M , and wanted us, to 

introduce him. We said that he had invited us to go on the 
trail to Sulphur the following morning, but that we should 
not be able to, and she quickly replied that she would be 
very glad to act as substitute. 

The last member had gone, the tent flap was drawn down, 

when M and R called out, " Open the door, we 've 

come to church. What ! over already ! We heard you 
ladies needed a cook, so we 've come to get up a nice dinner 
for you. You show us what you 've got and we '11 do the rest, 
but we must start the music-box first and work to slow music. 
Oh ! by Jingo ! is n't it nice to come to a place where a fellow 
feels as he would at home ! If you only knew what an un- 
usual thing it is out here." While talking they rolled up 
their sleeves and went to work. M made the most de- 
licious English muffins I ever tasted. R chopped wood 

and heated the tomato soup ; K broiled a beefsteak, fried 

potatoes, and heated some corn. I prepared the table ; the 
easiest lot always falls to me as, luckily, no one will have 
me " fussing round in the kitchen." We finally seated our 

selves, B and R on one bench, M and I opposite. 

Such funny stories, such laughter, such Klondike expres- 
sions, as, " Please give me another throw at the potatoes," 
etc. — " I say, are you going to have ice-cream to-night ? I 
thought so, for the boys are all hunting up their fur coats to 
wear. Now you ladies sit perfectly still, as we 're going to 
clear the table and wipe the dishes." We took them at their 

word and played ladies while they hustled about until M 

came back and said, " Please, ma'am, the work 's all finished. 
May we have an afternoon off, as we 're invited to get a din- 
ner for another party at five ? " — and off they rushed full of 
animal life and spirits, enjoying every moment of their stay 
in the Klondike, and helping others to do the same. 

Isaacs' s head next appeared. ' ' I thought as 'ow you ladies 



Our Helpful Neighbours 235 

might have no further use for that 'arness you bought for 
me to carry your pack to El Dorado, and p'r'aps you might 

not mind giving it to me." " Yes," said E , "for a 

consideration, as we should be obliged to purchase another 
to have our goods taken over the ' Pass.' " He finally got 
it, however, and went off contented — for the moment. Dr. 

Y arrived from Dawson, bringing with him a Mr. A 

who had a note of introduction to E . We were inter- 
rupted by the arrival of our fellow-passenger S , who had 

left us at Circle. He was accompanied by another pas- 
senger, P , who was out for the first time after quite an 

attack of illness. They were quickly followed by Von 

M , R , D , E , and K . S had brought 

an immense lot of ice for the ice-cream ; some of the ' * boys ' ' 
stole radishes and young turnips from J — — 's garden, hold- 
ing him until the deed was done ; others cut bread, others 
spread it with butter, and between us we made sardine sand- 
wiches, ice-cream, and had some of E 's delicious cake. 

There was a scramble for the paddle, as usual, as it was taken 
from the freezer before the ice-cream was packed. Von 

M was the lucky man, but was not allowed to lick it in 

peace, for he was chased by several of the " boys," who in- 
sisted that their hard work entitled them to the honour of 
cleaning the paddle. 

" I say," said one, " have you heard that peace has been 

declared?" " Oh, yes," said Von M . " America 's 

suing for peace, and Spain has been rather noble in granting 
most advantageous terms." So they chaffed ; and here, on 
the 22d of August it is quite impossible for us to tell whether 
our dear ones are still in the thick of the fight or at home once 
more. We were also told of the death of Bismarck, but it is 
as likely as not to be untrue. After the ' ' boys ' ' had washed 
the dishes and put everything in order, and two of them had 
gone to get us buckets of water, the " sour dough " bringing 
his from the spring, the " Chee Charker " his from the Yukon 
River, and being heartily laughed at for his pains, we all 
gathered around on the benches, with our elbows on the table ; 
someone called, " Douse the glim," in response to which ele- 



236 Two Women in the Klondike 

gant language the candles were blown out, the lanterns 

turned down, and many stories were told. K , who had 

slipped away during the latter part of a ghost story, out of 
sight but not out of hearing, appeared with a shovelful of 
fire on which he had put salt, alcohol, and other ingredients, 
which cast such a ghastly glow over each member of the 
party that we shouted for the lights to be turned up, and 
were so nervous that as we said good-night we longed for 
Mr. Jones to stand guard again. 

' ' Well, all your graud visitors gone ? " we heard a mo- 
ment afterwards. " I knowed they were tellin' ghost stories 
by the glims being doused, an' thinks I to myself, they '11 be 
scared to death and want Jones to look out for them to- 
night, so I don't mind rollin' up in my fur robe an' sleepin' 
on the outside." This offer was most eagerly and gratefully 
accepted. " Why did n't you come in before ? " — " Oh, coz 
yer did n't want John, and he can't stand them ' Bah Jove ', 
dudes. Now as for you ladies, you never puts on no airs, 
an' you makes a fellow feel like you did n't notice his mis- 
takes, an' they ain't nothing in the world he would n't do 

for you. M wanted me to row him over to see you, but 

he would n't come nother, 'coz he did n't want to meet no 
dudes. You did n't think about John anyway, little one," 
said he confidentially. " I just sat down in the tent and 
listened to your laughter all the afternoon an' it did me 
good ; coz if I was n't enjoyin' myself, I knowed you was, 

and I like to see you happy. Mrs. T went over to town 

for the day, so I went to sleep in her tent to the music of your 
laugh. Saved me some ice-cream! Well, yer did think o' 
John after all, an' me a-thinkin' you 'd forgot him an' was 

only listenin' to the dudes ! Well, good night, Miss V ; 

good night, little one, and don't you be skeered ; just re- 
member John 's outside here and one call from you would 
fix any ghost that ever walked." 

Monday, August 226!. 
The sun wakened us bright and early, and our chatter 
and preparations for breakfast roused the guard outside in 



238 Two Women in the Klondike 

the big tent, who was soon ready to get wood and water for 
his two adopted children, as he now calls us. As we sat down 
to breakfast, he said : ' ' Talk about your ghost stories ! why, 
I could tell you some as is ghost stories, that has happened 
to me ; some as would make your hair start right up on end. 
Why, I was cabin-boy when I was only seven years old, and 
then I made long trips by rail ' hoboing it ' (I never did no 
swingin' under), met plenty of the boys laying their 
scraunches down and taking gappings, when they come 
home awful tired — that 's what they call restin'. Well, I 
ain't a-goin' to eat no more o' your grub," said he, as he 
finished breakfast and helped wash dishes ; " 't ain't right ; 
if I can't wait on you two ladies without taking your grub, 
I 'd oughter be ashamed o' myself — fact. Gimme your list 
now. I 'm going over to do commissions," and off he went 
for coal-oil and other articles. 

' ' Why did n't you come to church yesterday, Dr. H ? ' ' 

said we, as he appeared at the door. " Oh, I 'm awfully 
busy now ; had all my washing to do yesterday, and then 
I 've bought out half-interest in the brewery. Studied that 
for three months before going to Japan. Awfully paying 
thing ; pays much better than medicine. Plenty of illness 
in Dawson, but the patients are all too poor to pay any- 
thing. Most of them get ill because they 've not enough 
money to pay for food. One does n't come out here for 
philanthropy, nor for one's health, and one can't get more 
than five dollars a visit at the hospital. Surprising one can 
make such good beer out of rice ! We just put it in bottles 
and let it ferment for a day or two. I 'm going to make my 
fortune now, and give up medicine for a while. If there 's 
nothing I can dd for you, I '11 go home and wash dishes. 

J says you gave them a fine ice-cream supper last night • 

wish you had asked me. L,et me know when you give an- 
other, won't you ? " 

5 p.m. Jones has just returned from Dawson carrying a 
big five-gallon can of coal-oil, and sundry other necessaries. 
He presented the following itemized bill covering his 
purchases : 



Our Helpful Neighbours 

Coal-oil $10.00 

1 can peaches 75 

5 pounds pilot bread 1. 25 

\y 2 pounds cheese 1.00 

$13.00 



Dawson prices are dropping, as is shown by the above bill, 
on account of so many steamers coming in daily — all but 
the L,adue steamer. Some Indians passed and peeped in at 
the door. A tramp looked in at the front door and disap- 
peared. I went behind the screen and into the kitchen and 
found him at the entrance of the back door, but he beat a 
retreat with never a word. Truly the place is changing 1 
Even the miners acknowledge that they can no longer leave 
their gold-dust out in tomato-cans. Things disappear mys- 
teriously. The boats are bringing in too many " Chee 
Charkers " and there is talk of a miners' meeting. If we 
were to air one or two grievances over missing articles the 
storm might burst, and we be allowed to see a lifeless body 
dangling from a tree, or a solitary man put on a raft and set 
afloat down-stream with the swift current to carry him to an 
unknown destination to begin life once more. 

8 p.m. Jones helped get dinner and remained under pro- 
test to partake, saying that he was " eatin' too much o' your 

grub anyhow." W came over in time to join us, after 

which Jones insisted upon washing dishes and assisting 

E while W and I went for a tramp around our island. 

On our return Jones begged me to go for a " boat-ride" 

to see a raft of which E and I could build a house, as 

we could get the land for nothing, and the raft would be sold 

cheap. I was expecting Von M to teach me to develop 

photographs, so gave E a policeman's whistle with which 

to call me when he came, carrying one myself to answer her 
call. The night was perfect, the stars shining, and had it not 
been for the strong current a daily boat-ride would have 
been blissful, but contending against a current of six or seven 
miles an hour made the exertion of rowing so great that 
accepting an invitation seemed too much of an imposition. 



240 



Two Women in the Klondike 



Scarcely had we reached the raft when the whistle sounded 
and we floated down-stream to the landing, where Mr. 

W was waiting to assist me in scrambling up the steep 

embankment. This gymnastic performance would be more 
easily accomplished were it not for the impediment of skirts. 
Society is not educated up to it, nor is the writer, but really 
the only way of getting about in this part of the world, 
sensibly and without accident, is garbed in bloomers. We 
developed no photographs nor did we make the attempt, as 
we became wildly excited over the possibilities of a business 
scheme. 





CHAPTER XXI 

A NEW SCHKMK 

ON the previous day, we had mentioned before Von 
M and a number of the " boys " that, in accord- 
ance with a request from M , we had brought a bowling 

alley and an animatoscope with which he declared he could 
make his fortune and our own within six months, as neither 
had yet been seen in Dawson. It was distinctly understood, 
however, that they were not to be placed in his hands until 
after certain inquiries had been made at the end of our jour- 
ney. For reasons not necessary to state here, we had de- 
cided not to turn over to him the many articles purchased, 
but to make some other disposition of them. Immediately, 
several of the ' ' boys ' ' had expressed a strong desire to take 
the matter in hand, and we agreed to consider their proposi- 
tions. 

Von M had been to town early in the morning, had 

visited the few halls there, and had numerous plans to lay 
"before us. " We 're not any of us up here for our health," 
said he, " and there are several who would be glad to go into 

this thing, and push it, on a business-like basis." W 

also became intensely interested as we looked over the magic- 
lantern slides, and made out the list of moving pictures which 

all pronounced wonderfully good. Von M was to be 

manager, W to take tickets and weigh the gold-dust. 

4t Let us get M to do the ' talkee-talkee ' because he 's 

so jolly," said they. " Who shall we have to manage the 
lights ? " " Oh, hurry and start it," said E , " because 

16 

241 



242 Two Women in the Klondike 

Mrs. H has promised to leave for home early in Sep- 
tember, and I want to see the show before we go." 

August 23d. 

Von M was on hand before 10 a.m. and helped us 

prepare breakfast. After giving Von M the address of 

a man who had been for eight years engaged in a bowling 
alley, and that of another who has charge of an acetylene 
plant, he left, and I went to Dawson with kindly Jones as 

boatman. I went directly to Mr, W , the head of the 

lumber department, to ask if we might have a permit to build 
a cabin in West Dawson, and where. " Just wherever you 
please," he replied. " But they tell me that there are men 
waiting to build even where our tent stands and that courtesy 
alone keeps them from asking for the land upon which we 
have squatted," said I. " You just build your cabin wher- 
ever you please, my dear madam. There 's no record of 
anything of that kiud ; and I shall see that you are not dis- 
turbed." "How about building on this side?" said I. 
" Well, this lot, for only this small cabin, cost thirty thou- 
sand dollars, but I might be able to secure you one for three 
hundred dollars, as you won't care to be on the principal 
street. I '11 look about for a fine location, and let you know 
what can be done," said he. 

On leaving his office I was joined by the dentist who had 
given mea" straight tip " on the trail, and he asked if I had 
staked those claims, but I told him that I was just about to- 
record something better. He reminded me of his request to> 

be introduced to M , and was disappointed to know that 

the latter had started off to Sulphur. I next met W , 

who accompanied me to the Alaska Commercial Company, 
which was just closing its door for the noon luncheon, so we 
sat outside on the board walk until the sound of an incoming 
steamer roused the crowd and we all walked towards the 
wharf. 

Four steamers are in together. The harbour is becoming 
very gay, and the " Chee Charkers " numerous. We went 
to the office of the Johnson-L,ocke Company to see if we 



♦ 



A New Scheme 243 

could get news of the Tillamook and our stores. They 
knew nothing of the Tillamook, but said that the Rideoid, 
the Company's river-boat, was reported at Circle City three 
days ago, and was likely to be here in forty-eight hours. 
Our hopes are now high that we will soon be off short rations 
and living in luxury. " What day for the big dinner? " 

asked M and R as we met them and told them the 

good news. Mr. L S then joined us ; he had been 

" in " for ten days, and advised us not to remain later than 
the middle of September if we did not wish to be frozen in. 
He opened a fine illustrated paper, Klondike Edition, with 
pictures of the Bonanza Kings, and as we looked over his 
shoulders and criticised, a crowd soon formed in a semicircle 
close behind us, for the sheet cost one dollar, and many had 
not that amount to pay. 

One o'clock, and time for the Record Office to open, so 

W accompanied me there. Being a woman, I had the 

privilege of entering the little side door into the small ante- 
room, where my escort and I seated ourselves on a bench, 
and waited for the window to open. One of the officials said 

in a gruff voice to W , " You must go to the other door 

and wait at the end of the line," to which he replied court- 
eously, " I beg your pardon, but I have no claim to record ; 

I 've only come to accompany Mrs. H ." The official 

grunted, and whispered to one of the women at the desk that 
no one else should be allowed to enter except on payment of 
twenty dollars. My companion and I stole a glance at each 
other, and he whispered, " I feel like one in an intelligence 
office, waiting for a job, and wondering what is going to 
happen to me, don't you?" — " Worse than that. I 'in 
afraid of not being mild and servile enough." Just then a 
nice young boy who had been particularly courteous to me 
on a previous visit, came in my direction and I said to him, 
' Why can't you record my claim for me ? " — " Because the 
fellow who does that is bigger than I and might put me out. 
You just go right in and tell him what you want. Don't be 
afraid. He 's ill, but he 's all right." So I summoned my 
courage and timidly approached his desk, saying meekly, 



244 Two Women in the Klondike 

" Won't you please record my claim ? " " I 'm not ready 
for business yet," he replied, not gruffly, but in such a tired 
manner that I felt sorry for him at once, and said, " When 
you are, please let me know. I shall be sitting on the bench 
back of you." 

A few minutes later he opened the window, and began 
taking papers from the men outside, apparently oblivious of 
my presence. My escort glanced at me as though we were 
two naughty school children being punished for too much 
presumption, and whispered, " Why don't you go ? Don't 
you dare?" The young woman at the desk motioned 
" Now 's your chance " ; the nice young boy beckoned, but 
still I was afraid, and said, " He told me he would let me 
know when business was about to begin." — " You '11 have 
to wait all day, if you don't stand right up to him," so with 
a mighty effort I once more approached the great man, who 
did look so ill, writing with one hand and supporting his head 
by the other ; I felt that I might be contrary, too, shut up in 
that office with a throbbing head. " Well," said he, turn- 
ing to me as he finished with Number One on the line. " I 
want to record No. — , Quartz Creek, Indian River Dis- 
trict, please." " There are four contestants for that claim 
already," said he, referring to his book, " four Swedes." — 
" But if they have not had it recorded, why can't I?" 
" How can I do it for you, if I can't for them ? " snapped he. 
" It 's got to be resurveyed. You 'd only lose your fifteen 
dollars, as well as your rights in that district." — " Oh, I 'm 
not going to fight four poor miners, so let it go, and record 
No. — , Bear Creek." — "Which side? Upper or lower? 
Next Gulch ? ' ' Having answered all these questions sat- 
isfactorily I was just congratulating myself that at last I 
was to receive the bit of paper entitling me to another claim 
in the Klondike, when he said, " Where 's your miner's cer- 
tificate ? " "It is No. — ," said I, pleasantly. "But 
where is it ? "— " Why, I did n't bring it with me ; I got it 
only a few weeks ago from the young man at that window ; 
he can tell you that it 's all right." " But I must have it 
to record this deed." Then in despair I cried out, " How 



A New Scheme 245 

can I tell all that you want in this office ? You should pub- 
lish a set of rules and regulations. I took the trouble to 
come all the way from West Dawson last week and after 
losing a whole afternoon and answering a thousand and one 
questions, because I could n't tell you on which tier I had 
staked, you sent me back to get my lesson over again, and 
now you want me to go all the way back to get my certifi- 
cate, when I bought it right here in this very office from 
that young man, who can tell you so." 

This outburst completely astonished his royal highness, 
and evidently fearing that I was about to burst into tears, 
he said quickly, " All right, all right ; here 's your paper, 
and you can send your certificate to-morrow." I breathed 
a sigh of relief, clutched the slip, presented my fifteen dollars, 
and was about to walk out in triumph when a stern voice 
said, " Go to the next desk and hand in your paper." This 
official, however, was so kind that I felt restored to peace 
with the world again, and was most grateful to him for the 
pleasant words addressed to me, but became despondent as 
he finished and said, " Next desk, please." I raised my 
eyes, caught a pleasant glance, and all was smooth sailing 
until the question, " On what date did you stake these 
claims?" — "Why, I don't remember." "Can't you tell 
me approximately?" he asked. His encouraging smile 
helped me so that I was able to say, " We started on the trail 
on Monday the fifteenth, and got back late Friday night."—- 
" It must have been about Wednesday, then, was it not ? " 
And, this stumbling-block removed, I heard him repeating 
(as he wrote) something of which I only caught, ' ' Best of 
my knowledge and belief, " V Signs of gold, ' ' and as he wrote 
the last word he held up a book of which I did not see the 
name and said, " Touch it." I only remember saying, 
' That 's all right," signing my name, handing over the 
fifteen dollars which had been burning a hole in my pocket, 
saying " good morning," and then rushing out to my escort 
with a " Thank the Lord it 's all over, and now I 'm a mil- 
lionaire claim-owner, but poor Miss V will have to go 

through with this ordeal to-morrow." ' ' Well, by Jove ! I '11 



246 Two Women in the Klondike 

never stake a claim if I ' ve got to stand in line and be treated 

like that," said W . " It makes one's blood boil, and 

I 'm not going to be fleeced out of twenty dollars for private 
admission, either." 

As we walked down Dawson's Main Street, we were joined 

by F and C , and had a pleasant little chat, the latter 

being out for the first time after quite an illness. They both 
expressed a desire to pay us a visit, but as they owned no 
boat it was rather a difficult thing to do. We stopped at a 
butcher's and bought kidneys at one dollar a pound, then 
went to the laundry to inquire why our linen had not been 
returned. Same old reason — no boat. We met a lot of the 
" boys," who said, " Mr. Jones has been hunting all over 
Dawson for you, and thinks you 've gone back." " Let me 
row you over," said the Doctor." " No, I asked first," 

interrupted J ; but as they were discussing the question 

Jones appeared, and whispered, " Whenever yer gits through 
with yer dude friends, John 's ready to take yer back." So 
they escorted me down the embankment to the boat. Hardly 
were we out of hearing when my good boatman said, " I 

knowed yer had a date with that there red necktie (W ). 

I never give anybody as many boat-rides as I give you, an' 
yer shakes me ez soon ez yer gits on the other side." We 

found E being entertained by Mr. T , whom she left 

to prepare luncheon for the weary tramps from town. Hardly 

were we seated ere Mr. H arrived, followed by Dr. C 

and W , who all remained to prepare dinner for us. Each 

one had a special dish to cook, while I, as usual, prepared 
the table. Our piece de resistance was kidneys stewed with 
sherry, over which great satisfaction was expressed. 

After our guests had washed the dishes and put the kitchen 
in fine order we settled in steamer chairs and oh boxes, warmly 
wrapped, to relate startling tales. Just then Von M ap- 
peared, saying, " I 've got lots to tell you, but I 'm starving 
and must first go and get supper ; just thought I 'd stop at 
your tent to say I 'm coming back. " ' * Nonsense ! " we cried ; 
" we 've finished dinner and there 's nothing left but some 
bread and butter ; how would sardines and a cup of coffee go 



A New Scheme 



247 



with that ? " " Fine ! what luck ! you are sure you don't 
mind ? " " Sit down and stop talking and you '11 have all 
you can eat in a jiffy ! " So he was handed a tin of sardines 

with half a dozen slices of bread and butter. K then 

came in, saying, " Do you mind lending me my bread-board 
for a little while? My bread 's all ready for it." We 
asked him to sit down, but he refused, fearing that his bread 




PREPARING DINNER 



would spoil, and off he went, thanking us " for the loan " of 
his own board. He soon brought it back, however, and we 

gathered around Von M to hear his experiences. 

" I 've been to every hall in town. I 've talked to every 
proprietor, and have just finished a conversation of two hours 

with . I asked him how much he would pay me to bring 

such an attraction to his theatre ; he said he would furnish 
hall and lights, and expect fifty per cent, of the net proceeds. 



248 Two Women in the Klondike 

We can get the Pioneer Hall for fifty dollars a night and. 
probably for less if we take if for any length of time, but 
that 's off the Main Street. It would be better to pay twice 
as much on the principal street where crowds congregate. 
We can have Pioneer Hall from 2 p.m. to 2 a.m., whereas the 
man who wants half-profits can let us have the theatre only 
from 2 to 6 p.m." " Oh, that 's absurd," we cried ; "we to 
bring out the most expensive outfit to be had in San Fran- 
cisco, to have all the trouble of. selecting, learning to run it, 
learning to prepare lime-light, paying freight, duty, etc., and 
he to have fifty per cent. Should n't dream of it for an in- 
stant," and so we discussed the matter and looked over the 
magic-lantern slides. 

"What shall we call our company?" said one. "It 
must have a grand name, seeing that it is to be run by aris- 
tocrats of America and England," said W . " What 

a lark it will be ! What would our people at home say ? ' ' — 
" They all know we 're not here for our health, and if this is 
better than a gold mine, why should we have any false pride 
about it ? " " False pride, ridiculous ! " I cried; " I shall be 
a thousand times more proud of going back with an inex- 
haustible sack of gold earned by my own efforts than if the 
winter had been passed in idleness in New York, Paris, or 
Iyondon. I 'm ready to work in such good company, and 
I 'm proud of it. Besides, the poor fellows who are shut up 
here and have had no chance to see and scarcely to read 
anything of the war, ought to be able to see the processions 
of soldiers on the way to Manila, the funeral of the Maine 
victims, the pictures of our heroes — and it will be a great 
pleasure to show an animatoscope to them." " I want to 

work, too," said K . " I just want to show my family 

that I know how to do something and it would be a proud 
moment for me to carry home a bag of my own earnings — 
and I want it all in gold dust, too." As we talked and dis- 
cussed, the time passed so rapidly that midnight came before 
we were aware, and there was a general stampede to boats 
by those who lived in Dawson, and to cabins by their fashion- 
able occupants in West Dawson. 



A New Scheme 249 

Wednesday, August 24th. 
Breakfast finished, our kind neighbour Jones rowed E 



to Dawson at ten o'clock to record her claims and attend to 

commissions. As they left, Miner C appeared, saying, 

"I 've been down to look at the claims belonging to you 
ladies near Bonanza, and have come to see about working 
them for you. I 'm going out prospecting to-morrow, and 
if I find anything good shall let you know before anyone else 
gets a chance to stake." 

Jones soon returned, saying, " I left one of my children 
over in Dawson and cum back, for to get lunch for the other, 
coz I knew she 'd starve to death or die o' thirst before she 'd 
lift her hands to git anything for herself," and so the kind 
fellow made a fire, prepared a nice luncheon, and laid the 
table, while I tried to continue my oft-interrupted journal. 
" Are you thirsty?" said he. ''Awfully," and down he 
rushed to the spring with a bucket and on return filled me a 
tin cup of the delicious beverage. Iyuncheon finished, Mr. 

T arrived with a Mr. B , who was anxious to have 

our bowling alley and animatoscope, and wanted to know 
what terms we would make. I said we were not making 
terms, but were willing to consider all bids placed before us 
during the week, with the intention of accepting the most 

advantageous. Mr. B requested permission to be allowed 

to put in his bid, and towards evening it came in the follow- 
ing form : 

" Dawson, August 23d, 1898. 
" Ladies— I have the honour to submit the following bid, 
viz. : For some time past I have been meditating upon the 
feasibility of taking charge of your bowling alley and kineto- 
scope. I have canvassed the town thoroughly for a suitable 
location and find I can secure one in a most desirable part 
for one thousand dollars a month, but, as a security for mov- 
ing in, will have to pay three months in advance. I have 
also figured very closely upon the expenses of running such 
an enterprise, which are no small matter. There will be a 
large expense fitting up, etc., and the most fair proposition I 



250 Two Women in the Klondike 

can place before you, is to take full charge of your business, 
pay all expenses, give you a suitable bond to cover the value 
of the appurtenances, etc., and also give you sixty-five per 
cent, of the net receipts. If you find it necessary that 3 7 ou 
should leave this winter, your profits and share can be 
turned over to your agent or any bank daily — vouchers at- 
tached. If at any time you wished to be realised, you will 
have the privilege by giving me ten days' notice. If others 
can make a more sincere offer I am at a loss to know how it 
can be done. 

" Most respectfully submitted, 

" R. B." 

"What do you think of it, Mrs. H ?" said K . 

" I think it is a matter not to be decided upon before the 

end of the week. What do you say, E ?" — "Quite 

agree with 3^ou. We '11 wait for all the propositions, which 
are to be submitted to us this week." " They can't be bet- 
ter than B 's," said K , " as he expects to turn in to 

you at least from eight thousand to twelve thousand dollars 
a month, and you '11 not have a penny of expense." " We 
cannot decide before Saturday," we replied, and So the inter- 
view ended. It was after four when E returned. She 

had recorded her first claim, had been invited to luncheon at 

the Regina Cafe by Dr. C , had held a reception all along 

Main Street, being stopped at every corner, and was glad to 
get back to our easy chairs and to the quiet of our tent. 

Our next visitors were J and E , the latter having 

just arrived from Circle City for a day or two in Dawson. 
Ivan welcomed him gladly, and we were pleased to see the 
fellow-passenger who had given us our first oranges and 
lemons and loaned us a fur robe, which he said again he 
should not need or want us to return until we were quite 
ready to depart. He tried to persuade us to move to the 
American side and settle in Circle or at Eagle City, promis- 
ing that we should be well looked out for ; but our interests 
are growing here, in many directions, and to leave at all 
will be difficult. 



A New Scheme 251 

' ' A new cook has come to get your supper for you, ' ' 

shouted a cheery voice at the door, and jolly M made 

his appearance. " There ain't nobody going to cook supper 
for these ladies while John 's here for to do it," said Jones, 




CROSSING THE YUKON. 



" so you can just sit down and talk while Miss V tells 

me what she wants done. As for that little one, she don't 
know how to cook nothin', nohow, an' if she ain't writin' all 
the time she talks so fast that nobody kin stop her, an' it 's 
better for you to listen to her than us to be bothered with her, ' ' 
added Jones, casting side glances to see that I thoroughly 



252 Two Women in the Klondike 

understood that he was " joshing," as he calls it. " I 've 
brought my sewing with me," said M , as he com- 
menced to cut the cords from his " parquis," and asked for 
strong thread with which to sew on new ones, " so you go 
on with your writing while I sew. " ' ' Just the time for you 
to dictate that story to me, then, of the experience you had 
with the thieves, " so I wrote down the following true tale 
of M 's personal experience : 

Lynching at Sheep Camp, as Told by a Miner 

" This is not a ' yarn,' but merely a true outline of Sheep 
Camp in January, 1898. Sheep Camp was so called because 
no one, unless he had the brains of a sheep, would think of 
staying there, so when our little caravan pulled out of the 
narrow canon into the broader valley, which drew all the 
wind in creation down its funnel-like length, our first thought 
was for shelter, which offered itself in the shape of a new 
cabin alongside of which we pitched our tent. What a nasty 
place that was, menaced by a great blue glacier that hung 
high on the mountain above us ! Pinched by the cold and 
beaten by the wind, we dragged out several weeks, tugging 
our stuff to the summit. At that time of the year, few were 
sturdy enough in heart to attempt that work which has 
broken many spirits ere now. When one had staggered to 
the top and flung down his fifty pounds, he felt that he had 
at least earned his bread. And what a great lump it was to 
swallow, after taking his last load to the ' divide,' to find 
that someone had been before him, and stolen everything I 
One would sink in the snow to curse his Maker, while an- 
other would pray. Many a time had it happened, and never 
a trace of the thieves. The wind blew fair and cold from 
the north on the 26th, when we reached the summit, and 
found a friend of the trail, an old man of sixty-five at least, 
kneeling in the snow, by a trampled, soiled spot, where his 
provisions had once been. He could not believe that his 
entire outfit had been taken. The poor old man seemed 
dazed with his cruel misfortune, and determined to remain 
where he was and end his misery by freezing to death. 



A New Scheme 253 

" Lazy, sleepy Sheep Camp rose in a body of indignation, 

to avenge this last outrage. J , a young Swede of about 

twenty years of age, one of those thin, pink-skinned, fair- 
haired and white-eyebrowed chaps, was caught early next 
morning, drawing a sled, which was identified as the property 
of a man named P . 

" During the autumn, P had tried to cross the Lakes 

before they were frozen, but on finding that it was too late 
he cached his outfit below Sheep Camp, leaving his partner 
and a hired man to freight it to the summit, while he re- 
turned to Juneau on business. The following month, the 
weather proved so bad and sledding so uncertain, that his 
partner dismissed the hired man and started in business for 
himself. Several months later, on going to the cache to get 
some needed articles, he discovered that a thief had taken the 
* whole cheese. ' He wrote a ' harum-scarum ' letter to 

P , stating the turn matters had taken, and added that 

he suspected a man who had just gone over the summit, and 

whom he intended to track. Of course P thought that 

his partner had robbed him, not believing the story told, and 
left the country in disgust. When C (the partner) re- 
turned after a fruitless search for the thief, he was most in- 
dignant at the way P had talked about him, and swore 

to clear himself and find the culprit, even if it were * the last 
act of a misspent life.' Months went by without any further 
developments, until this poor old man was robbed, and then 

it was that C , in great excitement, stuck his head in the 

flap of our tent, and with many gesticulations told us all his 
troubles. 

" I was then and there deputed with three other men, to 

go up the trail, and arrest J 's two partners, W 

W and a man named G . It was perfectly asinine, 

now that I look back upon it — we four, moseying up unarmed 
to arrest two men of whom we knew nothing, but neverthe- 
less in we marched. Their little tent, almost hidden beneath 
the snow, was shipshape and plainly bespoke the sailor. 
They were so deuced polite, and so sorry that any mistake 
had been made, that I felt quite ashamed of my errand, and 



2 54 Two Women in the Klondike 

apologised so profusely that I quite forgot to see whether 
they were armed. All the way into camp I walked beside 

W , chatting pleasantly, my anger of the morning having 

entirely passed away, and the sight of a crowd of men and 
women awaiting our return took me by surprise. In a mo- 
ment we were being borne along by the mob, and were 
crowded into the ' Tent Saloon.' The queer structure con- 
sisted of a wooden frame and board sides, with a huge tent 
drawn over it. Already the sun had sunk low, and but little 
of the twilight filtered through the grimy canvas. Crouched 

in a corner sat J , looking so meek and innocent that the 

presence of judge and jurors, sitting in the gathering gloom, 
seemed almost a farce. Before the prisoners had time even 
to exchange a glance, the judge appointed guards for each, 
and sent two of them in different directions, leaving the third 

(J ) to be tried alone. I can see him now, as he sat on 

the bar, above the crowd, surrounded by bottles filled from 
the same keg, but labelled differently, unwashed glasses, 
and a background of soiled white paper. Then the great 
kerosene lamp was lit, casting its harsh light straight at the 
accused. All this left a vivid and never-to-be-forgotten im- 
pression upon my mind. 

" J stated that he and his partner had bought the out- 
fit in Skaguay and had brought it over in a small boat to 

Dyea, where they had met G , who had been shipmate 

with them on the Oregon, and, although he had no outfit, 

they had taken him in on partnership. G was the next 

to be questioned, and, unlike J , the poor devil was 

frightened to death. His story came in a jerky, truthful 

way, and although it did not jibe with J 's, it was hard 

to believe that either fellow was lying. He had joined them 
at Dyea, where they were in camp, and having no outfit they 
suggested that theirs was so large that they might divide ; 
so, bright and early, the worst day in the past month, they 
all three had moved the entire cache about a mile. He de- 
scribed the place where he first found the cache, which was 
identical with the one where the stolen goods had been. 
Further than that he knew nothing, save that they did not 



A New Scheme 255 

go to the cache for two months and that his partners had 
incidentally told him that they had bought their outfit in 
Skaguay. The plot thickened ; and there was quite a mur- 
mur of excitement when W • was brought to the bar — 

' bar ' in more senses than one. W 's story varied little 

from the first one, save in details of where the transaction 
had taken place, and the manner of bringing it from one town 

to the other. G was again brought in and asked some 

leading questions before W . Their eyes met for an in- 
stant, and then G said in a faltering way that he had 

told the whole truth, and nothing but the truth. W 

was led from the saloon, and as he went, he whispered to 

his guard, ' We 've been shipmates, me an' G , an' he 

done me a good turn once, so I want to say, that no matter 

what they do to J and me, G joined us after the 

supposed crooked work happened.' 

" In the street, there was a motley crowd, all ' rubber- 
necking ' to see the accused, and murmuring like the Roman 
mob in C&sar, or as at a woman's tea. It was clear, and 
colder than before, with every star shining bright. The little 
gorge or valley seemed like a deep crease in a nurse's white 
apron, and the glowworm-like tents mingled their light 

with the stars' from their burrows in the snow. As W 

passed through the crowd, he caught sight of a man holding 
a rope in his hand, standing in a corner with a lantern. ' It 

looks pretty d d bad,' he said, and walked on half a block 

without a word. Suddenly, without the slightest warning, 
he whipped out a pistol, fired at his attendant, and fled down 
the trail. He had evidently missed his mark, for there was 
the patter of moccasined feet close behind him, and he fired 
again over his shoulder. The pursuer fell headlong into 
the soft snow at the side of the trail. Another shot rang 
sharply on the air, a flash of light which showed the criminal, 
standing for an instant, then swaying, then came the sound 
of a heavy, limp body as it fell in the half-frozen pathway. 
He had shot himself in the head, the ball entering between 
the eyebrows. When his guard had tripped and fallen, he 
had evidently thought that he had killed him, and seeing 



256 Two Women in the Klondike 

how hopeless his attempt at escape would be, had ended the 
matter, that is, as far as he could. 

" Notwithstanding the fact that J had been turned 

back from the Dyea and Skaguay trials the previous year 
for larceny, sympathy was aroused in his favour and there 
were those who even dared talk against lynching. The jury 

returned with the verdict, ' J guilty,' and recommended 

a near-by tree. G was ' not guilty,' and therefore to go 

scot-free. The tent was ' cram-jam to popping,' but each 
word came as distinctly as though it had been spoken in an 
empty room. Then again, that murmur of conflicting opin- 
ions. At least a dozen different punishments were sug- 
gested without approval. A clergyman held up his hand 
and gave a so-called humane speech — recommending ' flog- 
ging.' One life had been taken that night, and it seemed to 
have awed the assembled multitude, so, after some discus- 
sion, it was decided that at noon, next day, fifty strokes 
should be given with a lash on the bare shoulders. 

" It was almost light again and the last candle had gone 
out in that ' glowworm village.' Down at the foot of a hill, 
two men were building a coffin ; another was lettering a 
head-board : 

W W 

Age 27. 

But the interest was beyond, where, in a log-cabin, lay the 
new victim, in appearance absolutely unconcerned. The 
room was dark and close. Men shuffled in and shuffled out. 
A woman was moving some tin dishes about in a great pan 
at the end of the room, while in another corner sat a man 
busily engaged in binding a double rope to a stout club. 
Noon came and went, and there was some talk of weakening. 
Half an hour later, however, J was led out, placed be- 
fore a tall post, and ordered to strip to the waist. I never 
saw so many shirts in my life. They kept coming off, one 
after another, like the shells on a Japanese puzzle. I love to 
be in a fight, and don't mind a black eye, or a few teeth shy, 
but I did n't like the idea of a man not having an even show, 
so I ' mushed ' (disappeared). There was a horrible fascina- 



A New Scheme 257 

tion about it, however, and the man was hardly lashed to 
the pole before I was skirting the crowd, trying to peer over 
their heads. From the top of a lumber pile, I saw the first 

blow descend, and J sprang up the pole, like the monkey 

on the stick. Two great purple stripes showed against the 
clear white skin, leaving each twist and thread like a print. 
My chicken heart failed me, and I turned my back. I heard 
the rope wind itself about the fine-cut shoulders once or 
twice, without any other sound, then came a cry like that 
of some wild beast in agony. I drove my fingers in my ears, 
but nothing has ever shut out that one inhuman shriek that 
echoed down the valley and was repeated several times. At 
the tenth stroke I could stand it no longer, and without much 
trouble pushed through the crowd, yelling, ' Enough ! 
enough ! ' like a schoolboy. There was some excitement as 
I told a friend what I thought on the subject, then a doctor 

interfered, and said that J had had about as much as he 

could endure. After enjoying a huge meal, J strolled 

down the trail bearing a large sign, ' Pass me along, I am a. 
thief.' And so is justice administered by miners. An hour 
later, through the fast-falling snow, a thin, scrawny bay 
horse passed, drawing a sled with a pine box on it. L,ess 
than a dozen men followed it to the spot where it was de- 
posited in the frozen ground. When the coffin had been 
lowered, a young man standing at the end of the grave 
knelt for an instant. As he rose he made a short address. 
No one knew the raz/ name of the man who had just been 
huried or where his poor mother lived. Perhaps it was just 
as well. ' ' 

As M ended his pathetic tale, Jones, dish-towel in one 

hand and pan in the other, shouted, " That 's right, that 's 
just the way it happened, coz I wuz there, an' I got a piece 
o' the rope wot they lashed him with, an' I '11 give a bit of 
it to you two ladies if you want to take it out with yer, coz 
it never brought me no luck nohow." 

Supper was soon on the table, consisting of beef soup, 
chops and desiccated potatoes, rice cakes, macaroni and 



258 Two Women in the Klondike 

cheese, and prunes. Von M came in and we settled 

down to business and talked over the big scheme which we 

expect to coin money for us. We asked Von M to read 

over B 's proposition and advise us from an unprejudiced. 

standpoint, but he was square and honest and said, " I 
can't do it, don't you see, because I want it so much myself, 
and have such a nice staff of assistants selected ; we are not 
only intending to work for ourselves, but to advance your 
interests, so that it seems to me that no one else could make- 
so much of a success of it. Although I 've never done any- 
thing of this kind in my life, I shall devote every moment 
to it, and feel that no one else could do more." The fellow 
had shown so much energy, and spent so much time over it, 
that we felt he really deserved the position. He had secured 

the option on the O Sisters' Theatre from 2 to 6 p.m. 

daily for ten dollars a day, and was to find out about getting- 
it after the play in the evening. He had seen many others 
and placed the proposition before them, and was expecting 
answers from all sides. He had also seen the men who* 
owned the raft and found that lumber could be purchased at 
one dollar a log, and that the boys were all willing to give 
usa " building bee," so that it now looks as though we 
should soon be able to move from this enormous tent with its- 
damp ground to a house of our own. 

Thursday, August 25th. 
Our neighbour Jones did not arrive this a.m. until ten,, 
consequently we were obliged to use the oil-stove, and had. 
no water to drink. He had attended a ball in town, and 
was not in the humour for house-building, but said he might 
be after a few hours' sleep, which he went home to enjoy, 
after having filled two water buckets for us. Next came 

Von M to find out what we would contribute towards. 

the hall in case he engaged it. He received the following 
list : 

1 Animatoscope, gas-bags, and all appurtenances. 

2 dozen films of various subjects, ranging from the Maine- 
funeral procession to the Corbett fight. 



A New Scheme 259 

1 Magic lantern, with views of naval heroes, battle scenes, 
etc. 

After luncheon our visitors were Dr. M , of the army, 

Mr. H , and John Jones. The former said he was very 

sorry to trouble us, but if we no longer needed the oars that 

M had borrowed for us, he should be very glad to have 

them. " What oars ? " said K ; " we have but one pair, 

and those we purchased from M , giving him six dollars 

for them. " " Are you not mistaken ? ' ' said the Doctor ; " he 
came to me, said you wanted them only for a short time, and 

would soon return them." K immediately searched for 

and found the bill, to the Doctor's great astonishment. 
H was very anxious to have us accept B 's proposi- 
tion for the animatoscope and bowling-alley, but we would 
give no answer until Saturday night. Jones was going to 
town, and wanted either to give usa" boat-ride acrost," or 
" do commissions" for us. Of the latter, he was charged 
with half a dozen at least. After their departure, we had 
our first uninterrupted hour, and my first letter home since 
arrival was written ; events crowd each other so in this small 
place that it has been almost an impossibility to record the 
half of them. The letter written, there was half an hour 
before dinner, of which I took advantage to pay a short visit 

to Mrs. B , who has not been at all well. She was as 

entertaining as usual, however, telling me many stories of 
the claims she is accumulating here ; she ought to " go out " 
a very wealthy woman. I was frightened away by a small 
mouse which was so tame that it insisted upon playing near 

my feet. Mrs. B laughed at my fears, and said that it 

often jumped on her bed. In telling K about it on my 

return, K and Jones said it was only a " field mouse," 

and that there were plenty of them, which made me decide 
to keep Ivan in the little tent in future, as long as we are 
only raised from the ground by a few pine boughs. 

After dinner Jones had planned to take me down to the 
raft to select the lumber for our cabin, but the poor fellow 
had .such an attack of rheumatic pains (which I wonder that 
any one escapes, on account of sleeping so near the damp 



260 



Two Women in the Klondike 



ground) that we sent him home ear^. Before leaving he 
said, " Now that you ladies knows me so well, and what a 
good disposition I have, why can't you bring me a wife 
when you come back next summer ? " " Well, I like that," 

cried K ; " here he passes right over our heads as though 

we were not good enough, and asks us to bring in someone 

else." "Now, Miss V , ain't you ashamed o' yourself 

to josh a poor fellow like that? O' course neither o' you 
ladies has never seen me dressed up in store clothes, and you 
don't know how different I looks, but even if I was got up 
in the finest togs of London, I think you 'd both be too 
grand to want to know poor John ' on the outside ' ; but, 
anyhow, this has been a lucky year for me to meet two such 
beautiful ladies as you, even if you do only want to know me 

up here." K helped B make her bread, and then 

said he had to go back and wash dishes before rowing to 

Dawson for Von M , who had been there all day on our 

business. 




CHAPTER XXII 

THE ' ' RIDEOUT ' ' AT LAST 

Friday, August 26th. 

A COLD, sunless morning. When I get up at seven, in 
order to have a quiet hour for writing, the thermometer 
generally registers fifty, and gradually under the powerful 
rays of the sun goes up to seventy by the noon hour, but now 
it is below fifty, and this tent is so enormous it is like writing 
in the open air. The hundreds of dogs that have been bark- 
ing all night at the sound of each passing footstep are now 
enjoying a well-earned rest, as are others who have been 
kept awake by their combined howls which make a veritable 
pandemonium. The only sound to be heard is that of the 
saw which an industrious neighbour is using in building 
his log cabin. About a dozen cabins have been put up dur- 
ing the few weeks we have been here, and the only place 
left on which to erect a house is just in front of this tent, and 
on the space which it covers. We are anxious to commence, 
as we may not be able to hold the place much longer ; al- 
though our neighbours are most kind, and glad to protect 
our rights, still the new-comers are numerous, and must 
have land on which to build, so we are hoping that the 
" boys " will be able to start work to-day. We find to our 
sorrow that the ground we have staked will encroach on 
land upon which a man dug a foundation some time ago be- 
fore going " up the creek." We are sorry to " jump it," 
but the law allows us 50 x 100 feet and the neighbours say 
that his four logs laid along his excavation " cut no figure," 

261 



262 Two Women in the Klondike 

as it is the first house up which counts, and we must be 
under a solid roof soon or go back doubled up with rheuma- 
tism. Poor fellow ! we do not know him and his partner, 
but we shall feel sorry when he returns to find his land gone. 

2 p.m. Our first visitor this morning was Von M — — , 
who returned too late from Dawson to call on us last night. 
He had not yet decided on anything, as he was expecting 
answers from many to whom he had applied. Everyone is 
eager to have the animatoscope, but not so anxious for the 
bowling-alley, as it takes so much space, where land is ex- 
tremely valuable. Jones came in rubbing his eyes about 
noon — had slept fourteen solid hours and was too late to 
gather his forces to begin building. He went into the 

kitchen to light a fire, and I heard him say, " Miss V , 

M '11 be back to-morrow ; he 's just dead stuck on that 

little one in there, but if she 's going to be so mean to me 
I '11 never bring him over here no more, an' I '11 tell him 
not to come." " Do you think you can keep him away ? " 

said B . " Dunno, I 'm sure ; dunno how much sense 

he 's got," and he glanced wickedly over the screen to see 
whether his shot had told. 

About 4 p.m. he took me for a boat-ride to the raft. 
Von M had struck a bargain at fifty dollars for fifty- 
two logs. We rowed and drifted for a couple of hours 
about and around the raft, hoping for the owners to 
arrive, but as patience was almost exhausted a brilliant 
idea struck me. We found a card, and wrote on it, " Will 
owner of raft please call immediately at ' big tent ' and in- 
quire for Mrs. H ." John found a long pole, which he 

stuck up on the raft after having split the top with a hatchet 
and inserted the card. " The moment they know it 's for 
the ' big tent ' they '11 stick you for a lot more money, you 
mind my word," said he. " I tell you, John don't want to 
see you stuck, an' he ain't a-goin' to, nuther. This has been 
a lucky summer for me, from the moment you came in my 
tent when I was so sick an' put that little hand o' yourn on 
my forehead to see how high my fever was ; I tell you, it just 
sent an electric thrill right through me. No woman never 



The "Rideout" at Last 263 

■done that before, not even my mother that I kin remember, 
coz she died when I was a kid. Why, do you know, I ain't 
never seen no ladies like you folks before, an' I 'd 'a' been 
sick a hundred times over for to have met you. The women 
I 've alius known has been such as sometimes to 'a' made 
me ashamed that my own mother was a woman, but now, by 
gosh, there 's something to live for to wait on you an' Miss 

V . O' course you 'd never think twice' t about the 

likes o' me, an' perhaps you 'd never know me on the ' out- 
side,' no matter how fine I could dress, but that don't mat- 
ter to John ; he 'd slave for you all the same." 

A boat approached in which sat Dr. C , who had just 

returned from staking claims on Bear Creek. We held our 
canoes together and listened to his description of the trip, 
and then floated down to a big boat from Ottawa which had 
just arrived. The men on board said they had been shoot- 
ing moose and caribou all the trip and had a couple of ducks 
on board, which they told us were not for sale. I invited 
them to attend service in the tent on Sunday next, when 
John said, " That ain't goin' to get you them ducks," at 
which the men laughed heartily, but said they should come 

to church just the same. We met Mrs. B returning in 

a canoe with Mr. W 's assistant. She brought me a 

note from Mr. W , saying that I might build anywhere, 

and could find out from Mrs. B about the permit ; after 

a short talk with the assistant, I discovered that if I bought 
logs from the raft and the lumber had been properly cleared 
there would be no duty; if it had not been cleared, my house 

could be seized. Dr. C and John cooked and prepared 

the dinner of soup, fresh salmon, potatoes, macaroni and 
cheese, and evaporated peaches, but all had to be taken as 
usual on one plate, owing to the scarcity of dishes, and to 
the fact that the bread was rising in the dishpan. 

After dinner, as we were sitting before our tent wrapped 
in furs and robes, a screeching of whistles, and crowded docks, 
announced to us the approach of a steamer. We walked to 
the water's edge, accompanied by our neighbours with their 
field-glasses, and strained our eyes for the name of the 



264 Two Women in the Klondike 

steamer, which was towing a new barge. The Rideout ! the 
Rideout, at last ! After a whole month of waiting ! of pur- 
chasing stores at Dawson prices ! and now, as we are ready 
to leave for home, she comes, bringing the table-linen, bed- 
linen, kitchen utensils, luxuries and delicacies for which we 
have been longing, and which it is now too late for us to 
enjoy. We were here interrupted by the owner of the raft, 
who came to inquire the meaning of the card that had been 
left for him, and the order was soon given for the logs, as 
we must have a house in which to store our goods. The 
night turned so cold (forty degrees) that we were obliged to 
sit in the kitchen, John chopping us a good supply of wood, 

and Dr. C building a big fire, after which the men 

brought us boards to keep our feet from the damp ground, 

while they sat on boxes. We were joined by Von M 

and K . B was worrying over her bread which had 

fallen, and although I assured her that hers in that con- 
dition was better than the lightest made by anyone else, it 

did not console her a bit. She consulted K , and was 

delighted to learn that his batch had also fallen. "It 's 
from the cold," said he, " and can't be helped unless a fire 

is kept up all night." I begged K to purchase it in 

future, as we can now get five or six loaves for a dollar. 
" Did you see the accident on the other side? " queried 

. " No! what was it ? We never hear or see anything 

in this country residence." " Why, J and J were 

leaving ' for the outside.' The whole town turned out to 
give them a send-off, had a band of music and all. The 
wharves were packed, when suddenly part of one gave way 
and from twenty to thirty persons were precipitated into the 
water, which was quite deep there. You should have seen 
the excitement ; rafts were pushed towards them, life-pre- 
servers, chairs, and other things were thrown out from the 
steamer ; people tried to lasso them with ropes, and at last 
they got them, all but one man, who they said went under 
the dock and never reappeared ; but they 're not sure, no 
one knows who it was. There was only one woman in the 
lot, and I '11 be durned if she was n't dragged out laughing, 



The "Rideout" at Last 



265 



as though it was a good joke." J joined the party, and 

was immediately consulted as to the site for our new cabin, 
for although the present Dawson officials disallow his claim, 
he has one attorney here, and another in Ottawa, fighting 
the case and may yet come into possession. We much prefer 

a house on the water-front, but J wishes to keep it for a 

street, and loudly proclaims that he will use a shotgun on 




A STREET SCENE IN DAWSON. 



anyone who puts up a house there ; so, although the 
" Crown Timber Agent " says, " Go ahead and build where 

you like," we respect J 's wishes and avoid his shotgun. 

Von M arrived full of enthusiasm, for several have 

offered him space for the bowling-alley, and many are mak- 
ing fine bids for the animatoscope. He expects to start 
business at once, now that the Rideout is here with all the 
outfit necessary for lime-light and other things which are 
required. 



266 Two Women in the Klondike 

Saturday, August 27th. 

Jones rowed K over to Dawson to attend to the market- 
ing, leaving me to prepare bills and invoices for custom- 
house, assort papers, and have a general clean-up. Now 
that our goods have arrived, I can keep my promise and 
leave early in September for home, for we are told that our 
house can be built in a week or less, and our cargo can be 
safely stored therein for next summer's use. 

The owner of the raft came to inquire if the logs were to 
be delivered before Monday morning. He was sent at once 
to float them down-stream and tie them up to the bank, so 
that the men might begin work early Monday morning. 

Two men called to ask if we were the ladies about to build 
a house. If so, they desired to be engaged as assistants. 
H called again to see if we had decided to let his capital- 
ist B have bowling-alley and animatoscope, but Von 

M is so hard at work, so nearly ready to begin, and we 

have such a high opinion of his honour and integrity, that, 

although H raised his offer from sixty-five to seventy 

per cent, of the net receipts, we decided to allow the property 
in question to remain in the hands of Von M . 

Jones assisted in preparing dinner, which consisted only 
of beans, muffins, and stewed apricots, as our rations have 

about come to an end. H tells us, however, that we are 

not likely to get our cargo for some time, as the Johnson- 
Iyocke Company have had some trouble, and the company 
here refuses to deliver the freight, except upon repayment 
of charges. It now seems that of all the firms we could have 
selected, it would have been impossible to have sent our 
goods by one which would have given us so much trouble 
and caused us so much loss and delay. Having already paid 
them $488.85 for freight from San Francisco " to be landed 
in Dawson," it is cheerful to be told that we are likely to 
have it all sent back to St. Michaels, unless we also pay the 
Company here. One of our reasons for having faith in them, 
was the following letter from M : 

' ' I telegraphed you this afternoon concerning the Johnson- 
Locke Company. They are very responsible people, well 



The " Rideout " at Last 267 

known in San Francisco, have gone to great expense to se- 
cure the best trade in the Alaska business. Some of their 
river-boats are already in the Bering Sea, at Dutch Harbour, 
and they can absolutely be relied upon to land freight at 
Dawson, which is one of the main things outside of your per- 
sonal comfort on the trip. They only ask two hundred 
dollars, first class, from here, which will of course mean 
'Frisco, and one hundred dollars per ton from Seattle, and I 
don't doubt but what you could make same rate from city. 

Mr. J Iy , one of the oldest pioneers in the Yukon, is 

the organiser of the steamship company, and if any company 
can be relied upon, his certainly can." 

After dinner I went for a short walk with Ivan. Mr. 

K stood outside of his tent blacking his boots, and I 

cried, " Oh! for a Kodak, that your people might see some- 
thing of the details of life on the Yukon. ' ' He laughed, say- 
ing, " I was just dressing up for a visit to the ' big tent.' " 
<( It 's freezing there," said I, "so that most of our friends 
have deserted us, while those who do come run the risk of 
pneumonia or rheumatism." " Yes, it 's the coldest place 

in Alaska, ' ' replied K . * ' Von M and I were talking 

about it, and we propose to double up and give you our little 
tent with a stove in it, for he can move into mine, until 
your cabin is ready." — " Not for the world would we incon- 
venience you, so don't insist, and remember that we are as 
grateful as though we could accept. ' ' 

He and Jones spent the evening, canying our steamer 
chairs into the kitchen for us, where we sat with heavy wraps 
close to the stove which the latter had so kindly lent us, 
while our guests were constantly engaged in filling it with 
wood. 

" I was hoping to start the animatoscope this evening — 

everybody in town is waiting to see it," said Von M , 

entering; "but it is no use, — impossible to get anything 
from the Rideout ; and such a lot of fellows I know are going 
home soon, and would buy tickets before leaving if I could 
only start this show. It 's too bad ! Just think what it 
would have meant if the Rideout had come in on time a 



268 Two Women in the Klondike 

month ago ! Why, we could have been coining money for 
four weeks, and now ! Why, from five to ten thousand 
people have left." 

Sunday, August 28th. 

We held our last church service this morning, as it is not 
only too cold, but the building of the house will block the 
entrance to the tent. After service an informal, friendly 
meeting was held, when the parson (substitute sent by Dr. 

D ), who had come into Dawson to seek his fortune as a 

photographer, bemoaned his fate, saying that he was now 
almost too poverty-stricken to leave, although very anxious 
to do so. " How can that be," we queried, " with prices 
at one dollar each for developing photographs ? " " That '.& 
all well enough, ' ' said he, ' ' until one runs out of material ; 
it is then that the expense and difficulty begin. Never in 
all my life have I required so much patience and faith as 
during my stay on the Yukon." So we came to the conclu- 
sion that his stores had also been sent through the company 
we had chosen, and that he had been obliged to purchase at 
Dawson prices as had we. 

One of our neighbours came to the tent door saying, 
" Won't you ladies accept a pair of ducks? My partner 
and I have just come in from Ottawa, and have shot so much 
game during the trip that we have more than we want, ' ' and 
so the beauties were turned over to us, and we congratulated 
ourselves that such generous neighbours were about to set 

up a cabin next door but one. W then arrived, too late 

for church, but in time to help prepare luncheon. He had 
been prospecting, and had spent several days on the trail, 
which accounted for his non-appearance. After luncheon 
he accompanied me for a short walk around our so-called 
island, and armed with Kodak we took pictures of several of 

our neighbours. Mrs. H (who dresses in trouserloons) 

and her two sons — they are building one cabin and have 

staked off land for two others, — and Q and his partner, 

to whom I said, " Have you ever been told of your great re- 
semblance to Captain Sigsbee, the late commander of the 



The "Rideout" at Last 



269 



Maine f " "I thank you heartily for the compliment," was 
the reply. 

At one of the tents we passed the time of day with a man 
who said that his partner was quite ill. I immediately en- 
tered to see what could be done for him. The poor fellow 
lay stretched on pine boughs about one foot from the ground, 
covered with a fur robe. He was fully dressed in thick 




A GROUP OF PROSPECTORS. 



clothing and the fire in the tent made the atmosphere so hot 
and heavy as to be stifling. I said to him, " You need fresh 
air. Of course, with your trouble, you must keep as quiet 
as possible, but it is as easy to do that outside the tent as 
here. Let me help to move you out for a sun-bath." The 
invalid was not at all enthusiastic at the prospect. It oc- 
curred to me that sitting outside on a box would not be any 
too comfortable, so I hurried to the tent and, with W 's 



270 



Two Women in the Klondike 



assistance, was about to carry to him my steamer chair, when 
his partner, having learned of the plan, appeared to relieve 
us of that trouble. We saw the invalid properly installed, 
and, on the way back, passed the tent of the men who had 
sent us the ducks. They had a dozen friends from the other 
side of the Yukon lunching with them in the open air, so I 
stopped to take a group or two of the future Klondike mil- 




OUR NEIGHBOURS WHO ELECTED ME MAYOR. 



lionaires, telling them of my pleasure in having such good 
neighbours, a feeling which they reciprocated to such a de- 
gree that they offered me the position of " lady mayor," say- 
ing that I should be voted in by acclamation, and promising 
dire vengeance on anyone who should dare oppose their 
decision. Quite elated at the prospect, I confided the plan 

to E , who immediately dashed my hopes by saying, 

" How can an American hold office in Canadian territory ? "■ 
Very practical is K , and very clever, too. It is a fort- 



The "Rideout" at Last 271 

unate thing that she is here to be consulted or else I should 
rush into every tempting business proposition that offers 
itself, but which, after she has dissected it, shows clearly the 
glaring flaws within the diamond. 

A number of neighbours came in during the afternoon to 
discuss going on the trail again. One of them told us that 
he had the bench claim adjoining ours on Bear Creek ; that 
he had sunk only two feet and had never taken out less than 
fifty cents to the pan. We were most exultant at such good 
news, and still more so as he said that our prospect looked 
exceedingly fine, and promised to bring us back some pan- 

niugs on his return. W went back to town to get ice 

for us, promising to return in time for dinner, which he and 
Jones assisted in preparing. There was a big wedding in 
Dawson, which kept all our Sunday-night friends on the other 

side. Von M and K joined us, one bringing a loaf 

of bread, the other some maple sugar, and as we were gathered 
about the stove, Jones, who had disappeared for a short 
time, came in, saying to me, " Here 's a chance for you, 

who are always so good to sick boys. A M came 

over to see you, but was taken suddenly ill, and is in Mrs. 

T 's tent. She 's in Dawson, and there 's nobody to 

give him any medicine or to look out for him." E and 

I immediately answered this call of distress from our kindly 
guide, and found him with raging headache and light fever. 
Fortunately, I had the remedies at hand, and as the others 

went to fetch them, M said, " Here 's a pretty nugget 

I brought you back from Bonanza. Don't say nothing, coz 
I 've only got one which I brought for ye, coz I thought 
of ye while I was there. ' ' My famous headache or neuralgia 
cure acted as marvellously as it is wont to do, and in a short 
time the Klondike King had relief, and was listening to a 
sketch of his life as it appeared in the latest paper, which I 

read to the great interest not only of " big-hearted A , " 

but of the others in the little audience. We left him early, 
as he had decided to spend the night on this quiet, peaceful 

side of the Yukon with Jones, in the tent which Mrs. T 

had loaned him, and where he could not be disturbed by 



272 Two Women in the Klondike 

the hundreds of buttonholers and schemers who give him 

no peace. W '■ accepted the offer of Jones to spend the 

night in his tent and the party soon broke up. 

Monday, August 29th. 

Jones and W turned up before 9 a.m. to join us 

at breakfast, which they helped prepare. At ten, Von 

M came to row me across the Yukon in his canoe. 

Jones rowed Ivan over, as I would not allow the handsome 
dog to go in the same boat with me, fearing his restlessness 
or some accident which might overturn the canoe in the 
strong current. We stopped first at the Alaska Commercial 
Company's stores, where we found poor M , who ap- 
proached us holding his head with both hands, saying, 
" Too much wedding ! oh, how the champagne did flow ! " 
Stopped to chat with at least a dozen friends, who were all 
ready to accompany me and assist in the shopping expedi- 
tion, but W had the list of commissions to be executed, 

and had promised E to see that they were promptly 

attended to, so off we started. 

We went on board the steamer Rideout, where H was 

checking off freight, but got someone else to take his place 
while he accompanied us to the Pavilion to show the rooms 

on which he and B had the option — only fifty feet long, 

and the bowling-alley is just that length, and requires at 
least seventy. " Oh, we '11 manage." — " But how ? There's 
not another foot of ground to be obtained here." — " We can 
fix it somehow." But it was quite useless we found, as we 

examined ; so we left for another consultation with E , 

and H with his backer. We then paid a visit to Mr. 

W , the lumber commissioner, to ask what tax we must 

pay on our logs for building. " Sixteen dollars on one hun- 
dred logs," said he. " But the men who own the raft say 
they 've already cleared it." " They 've not," he replied, 
" and you must keep out the sixteen dollars from the price 
agreed for payment, and tell them it 's by my orders." 
From there to the land commissioner's, where we saw hand- 
some Captain B , and asked to have explained to us the 



The "Rideout" at Last 



273 



rights and privileges of a squatter. " You are entitled to 
50 x 60 feet," said he. " But all our neighbours have taken 
50 x 100 feet ; why should not we do the same ? " — " All 
right, if you can hold it. Land on that side has not yet been 
surveyed or decided upon, but on this side 50x60 feet is 
the rule." — " Is there any inexpensive ground for a winter 
residence? " "Just one lot at two hundred dollars," said 



j$!5*m!oy 




LADUE'S STORE. 



Tie, pointing it out on the map. W took the directions 

and promised to have a look at it. I then thanked the Cap- 
tain, telling him that if the erection of the summer residence 
did not leave me penniless, I should probably return for the 
bit of ground. " And then it will be gone," said he. 

Our next visit was to Ladue's warehouse stores. His 
agent said it would be impossible to tell whether we would 
be called upon to pay again for our freight before receipt of 
it ; said he could not even get Ladue's cargo out, things were 



274 Two Women in the Klondike 

in such a muddle. Von M ■, F , and C , who had 

joined us, all tried to extract whys and wherefores, but the 
agent professed entire ignorance. Back to the warehouse 
we went ; Ladue not to be seen, but his attorney poured oil 
on the troubled waters by telling us that all complications 
had been disentangled and that goods were being landed as. 
rapidly as possible, but we had better interview the purser. 
So to the Rideout I went with my four handsome escorts, who 
cleared the way for me as though I had been a member of 
the royal family. On our way to the purser's office we were 

met by H , who said that as he had charge of checking 

up and putting Ladue's goods in warehouse, if we would 
leave the matter in his hands there would be no further 
trouble. Next to the office of the Klondike Nugget to in- 
quire why we are not receiving that spicy little sheet, then 
to the office of the Canadian customs official to ask if he would 
allow us to copy our bills which he had retained. He asked 
for the bills of Rideout cargo, and kindly offered assistance in 
getting our goods without repaying freight, not having heard 
that the difficulties in the Johnson-L,ocke Company had been, 
settled. 

At last, the commissions finished, we started for the boat, 

only to find that Dr. C , who had borrowed it at eleven 

o'clock to pay an hour's visit to K , had failed to return, 

so we all seated ourselves on the platform outside the Alaska. 
Commercial Company, and waited and watched the shore 
near the big tent to see when the Doctor should push off. 

We were joined by Mr. Iy , who said that, if B and I 

would only give up Dawson for Circle, we should have some 
splendid claims there and that the " boys " would build us a 
fine house. Then came M — '■ — to explain about the mine on 
Bear Creek, and with so large a party of the college boys to* 
keep me company I was in no hurry for the appearance ot 

Dr. C and the canoe. Finally A M- arrived, 

and they all niade way for this modest Klondike King. 
" John said you wanted me to go over and take lunch with 
yez," said he. " We 'd be glad to have you, but we know 
that this is your busiest hour, and it seems such a pity for 



The "Rideout" at Last 275 

you to be obliged to hurry right back that perhaps you 
would rather come to dinner at six." " True for yez," ex- 
claimed A , his face lighting up ; " that 's what ! I '11 

be here at six o'clock an' yez kin tell John to come and row 

me over," and the man of millions started off with long 

strides, only to find men waiting to waylay him on all sides. 

Jones appeared at last ready to take Ivan and me home. 

I begged passage also for W and Von M . W 

who was carrying under his arm our four loaves of bread, 
which we had purchased for a dollar, let one of them slip from 
the paper to the ground. ' ' Bread is too precious to be thrown 
away for a little thing like that," cried the " boys," and im- 
mediately commenced giving it a thorough dusting. On 
reaching the " big tent " we were met by half a dozen men 
who had heard of our strike on Bear Creek, and were ready 
to start out staking in case we would give them a few details. 
:< There are five of us," said they, " and we '11 all give you 
aninterest." "Ah! in case your claims turn out well I shall 
expect a million from each one," and so saying, I spread the 

map out before F , explaining to him carefully the entire 

ground, but without exacting the usual bargain of half-inter- 
est in each claim. Off they all started with heavy packs on 
their backs, and a strange sight it seemed ! These society 
men, who are dined and wined in New York, who lead cotil- 
lions and attend teas, cheerfully making beasts of burden of 
themselves, by strapping anywhere from thirty to eighty 
pounds on the back, bending under the burden, tramping 
miles daily, with perspiration rolling from the brow, yet 

making no complaint. Von M went to his cabin for 

luncheon. W and I opened a tin of sardines and had 

some delicious hot soda-biscuit which K ■ had left in the 

oven for us, after which we washed the dishes and prepared 
to draw up the papers in regard to some claims. 

At 5.30 Jones rowed over for M . Poor John had been 

feeling sore and ugly all day, and before starting said, 

' You 'd oughter 'a'seen Mrs. H in Dawson to-day. 

She did n't have no use for John at all, just nothing but 
dudes all day long. She went everywhere with that there 



276 Two Women in the Klondike 

red-necktie fellow." "But lie is to have charge of our 

affairs," interrupted K , " and he went to attend to the 

business part of it." " All right ! you just keep on with 
them there dudes and you '11 see how you '11 come out ; if 
you 'd trusted everything to John you would n't be having 
all this trouble now. Why, I 'd just like to see these ' Bah 
Jove ' Englishmen a-tryin' to run your animatoscope. Just 
the way they 'd talk would make all the fellows give 'em 
the laugh ; they don't know nothing about such things. 
Why, that there dog Ivan — a man kim up to me and said 
he 'd give a thousand dollars down for him an' call, him 
cheap, but I ain't goin' to do no business for you folks when 
yer has a lot of dudes a-hangin' round. I '11 be durned if 

Mrs. H did n't ask a lot of 'em over to dinner to-night. 

Me and A don't want no dinner with the likes o' them, 

an' I tell you he ain't comin' no more when he knows she 
lets such fellers as them hang. around." He sulked about 
until time to row across. Seven o'clock came and no dinner 

guests : eight, ditto, so we sat down with W and Von 

M , enjoyed our stewed clams, delicious roast of beef, po- 
tatoes, scalloped tomatoes, asparagus salad, etc., which they 
•had assisted in preparing, and discussed whether we should 
waste a bottle of champagne upon these two " boys." They 
overruled us by saying that once it had been iced it had to 
be used, so the contents of the bottle were carefully divided 
into four parts. We drank success to the animatoscope, and 
the fellows were congratulating themselves upon their luck 

in having had A 's good dinner. At 9 p.m. in he walked 

with Jones. We thought, of course, that they had dined, 
but soon discovered our mistake. Our two English dudes 
transformed themselves into the most perfect of cooks and 

butlers. Tinned goods are quickly heated, and E went 

behind the screen to give directions. W served each 

course with a grand nourish and bow. Von M , as cook, 

came in to see if the dishes were satisfactory, and was 
promptly ordered back into the kitchen. Upon opening a 
bottle of champagne, he remained in an expectant position, 
but instead of being asked to partake he was promptly 



The "Rideout" at Last 



277 



ordered to place the. bottle on the table and retire, much to 

the delight of Jones and the huge glee of A , who was 

indeed surprised to see himself waited upon in such style by 
two young noblemen. I made a feint of eating and drink- 
ing ; the others had most hearty appetites and seemed to 
enjoy everything. The tent door was wide open, and the 
table was lighted by the soft rays of the moon. 




A KLONDIKE TEAM. 



After dinner a man came to see about moving the logs for 
our cabin. All our neighbours pay twenty dollars a day for 
horse and man, but for the big tent twenty-five dollars is the 

lowest price. So " Big A " and I walked along the river 

bank to a place where we were told we should find a man who 
owned a very strong horse. We found him, and tried to 
strike a bargain, but the horse's master recognised the owner 
of the " big tent " as well as the Klondike King, so bargain- 
ing was more than useless, and, finally, ten hours' work was 



278 Two Women in the Klondike 

arranged for on the morrow, to begin at 8 a.m. We seated 
ourselves on a log, where the moonlight shone softly over 
the Yukon and the mountains back of Dawson, and there 

M told me the history of his life. Although he had 

started with only three dollars and a half, he had always 
been so sure of success that his dreams were ever of how to 
invest the coming millions. He told of his plans for " going 
out," for visiting Seattle, San Francisco, Colorado, where 
he had worked for years, New York, and even London, and 
kindly offered to escort us over the Pass, and help us in the 
difficult places which we should be sure to encounter, as well 
as to show us the famous Alaska-Treadwell mines. 

He also promised that in case of our return to Dawson, he 
would take us to virgin ground and tell us where to stake, 

and a promise of that kind from A M is worth more 

than a promise of millions from anyone else. 

The next afternoon an Indian came to the tent and, in a 
most imperious manner, asked if we wished to purchase fish. 

As we had a roast of beef on hand, and W and I sat 

plucking feathers from ducks, a first experience for each of 
us and one which amused us hugely, we thought we had too 
much fresh food, but when he said only " four bits each " 
the temptation was too great, and we accompanied him down 
to the boat to select our salmon. We told him to bring it to 
the tent and receive the pay; this he declined to do in a most 

stately manner, handing the fish to W , who accepted it 

as naturally as he carries bread and washes dishes, with never 
a thought as to what the members of the crack regiment to 
which he so lately belonged would say. Such men deserve 
success. The Indian followed us with great dignity, holding 
the hand of a small child of three years of age. After receiv- 
ing payment, he stood calmly surveying the decorations. I 
started the music-box, to which the child listened with awe ; 
then took her hand to show her the parrot. The father ob- 
jected, however, saying, " got no time." But the child had 
caught sight of the strange bird and was so eager to make its 
acquaintance that it was some time before he succeeded in 
leading her away. I asked if they would like their pictures 



The "Rideout" at Last 



279 



taken to which he replied, " Got no good clothes." It seems 
strange that people of different nations fail to realise the 
picturesqueness of their native costume, and only feel pleased 
with themselves when garbed in foreign attire which com- 
pletely spoils their appearance. The picture taken, however, 
the Indian said with an air of command, " Picture finish very 
quick and then you give me. " " What a haughty manner ! ' ' 
said I, as he disappeared from view. " No wonder ; that 's 
the chief of the tribe, and the kid is a princess, ' ' said one of 
my neighbours. 




CHAPTER XXIII 

TRIALS OF BUILDING 

Tuesday, August 30th. 

AT 9 A.M. Jones came with a man to dig the foundation. 
At ten the man with the horse appeared, but after 
viewing the heavy logs said he must have an assistant, so 
he went off and finally secured one at eight dollars a day. 
Work commenced after ten, nearer eleven. I got out tape- 
measure and gave it to Jones to stake off ground, after the 

return of which he disappeared. Dr. H sent in his bill 

yesterday. He had paid me one professional visit, in which 
he had bandaged my feet and given me medicine. On his 
second visit I had announced myself as completely cured. 

Bill, forty-three dollars. As for B , he had visited her 

once or twice, and massaged her feet twice. Bill, fifty-three 
dollars. " Big tent" again making for us its unfortunate 
impression. 

Before leaving, Colonel Q said, " Now that you are 

not to have service here again, don't make any engagement 
for next Sunday, as I 'm to have a steam yacht (?) at my 
disposal, and am going to give a picnic only to members of 
the " four hundred." Sol want you two ladies as leaders of it. 

Then there is to be the daughter of Senator . I tell you 

I 'm going to be in the very choicest society on that day." 
" Is ' Windy' going?" said one of the " boys." — '* Not 
much." " Who is ' Windy ? ' " we asked. " Oh, she 's 
the lady that comes to all our tents and talks so much.'.' 
" Not very kind of you to speak in that disrespectful manner, 
and you a Virginia gentleman." " Yes, I know ; but I just 

280 



Trials of Building 281 

can't help it. I like ladies as is ladies, like you two that all 
your neighbours are proud of, and not a woman who 's 
always pokin' her nose in your cabin and talkin' you almost 
blind. Now if we boys want to see you, we know we ' ve got 
to come over to your tent, and call, just as we would at home, 
and although you 're kind enough to say that we can come 
in shirt-sleeves and jerseys when it 's too hot to be comfort- 
able otherwise, still, we always feel that we must spruce up 
for you, and we like to do it, and feel better for the visit. 
It 's a fine thing for us to have such ladies around, and it 
keeps us from getting demoralised ; but how can we have 
the same respect for women who dress like men, and live like 
men, and talk like men, and act like men ? Besides, you 're 
interested in all we say and all we do, 'cause it 's a new ex- 
perience for you, and so we feel that you like to hear us talk. 
There \s a big difference, I tell you, which we feel even if 
we can't explain it to you, and you 're bein' here makes bet- 
ter men of us." 

Now to return to our house-building. While the owner 
of the horse and his assistant were hauling up logs from the 

raft, I superintended them, B— overseeing the man who 

was digging the foundation. From nine to twelve he dug 
the south and east sides, then saying, " I think T can work 
better for a little luncheon," left for the other side of the 
river. Work being stopped also on the log-hauling, more 
as a joke than anything else, I said, " See how much I can 
dig while the men are at luncheon," and immediately began 
overturning the earth on the north side. A neighbour en- 
gaged in finishing his cabin said, " Don't you think your 
New York friends would give fifty cents admission to see 
you using a shovel?" "They 'd never believe it," said 
B — — , " even were we both to swear to it," so she seized 
the Kodak and caught me in the act, with the perspiration 
rolling down my brow. " Let me show you how to hold a 
shovel, if you won't allow me to dig for you," called an- 
other neighbour. " I hate to see a woman working, but 
then you can't make much impression ; it 's only play for 
you." This put me on my mettle, and caused me to work 



282 Two Women in the Klondike 

with such determination that I had soon dug the entire 
thirty feet necessary to hold the first log, but as different 
ones came in and refused to believe it the work of my hands, 
I realised more and more that those at home would be equally 
incredulous. 

Down to the raft again, while K continued the house- 
work, which to me is most obnoxious. The two men had 
done so little that I began to fear their task would not be 
finished by night, so questioned them. They could not tell ! 
Thirty-three dollars a day and only half a dozen logs hauled 
up. At that rate they might spin out their job indefinitely. 

Neighbour K came and kindly brought us a bucket of 

water. We consulted him and others, but although they 
knew we were paying steep prices, they saw no way of our 
getting better terms, for, as one of the " boys" said," They've 
all heard that you 're very wealthy, and there are only three 
horses on this side." 

As I returned from one of my many visits to the raft, 

" Who do you think is back ? " said K . " You 'd never 

guess — Isaacs," and just then his face appeared in the door- 
way. " Well, I got out o' grub, and 'as come back to see 
what I could do."—" How 's your lay ? "— " Oh, me lay 's 
all right enough, but a feller has to have grub, an' plenty 
of it. 'Ave your things come in yet from the Rideout f " — 
" Yes, they 've arrived, but we can't get them yet, so that 
we 're buying food ourselves at Dawson prices." " How 's 
the parrot — got her yet?" said the irrepressible. "Oh, 
yes, I see she 's as cross as ever," as he seated himself by the 

parrot's cage. Then, seeing Neighbour J pass, he called 

out, " I say, J , how about greens from your garden? 

Could n't you manage to spare me a few ? " " Very few 
left," said J , but relented, adding, " you can help your- 
self, " which Isaacs did with a generous hand. The hours 
passed and the man who had dug only twice as much as I 

had, never again put in an appearance. J 's partner, the 

Frenchman, told us that as the back of our building site was 
so much higher than the front, there should have been no 
digging there whatever, as it would cause so great a depth 



Trials of Building 283 

behind that ice (which is only a few feet below the surface) 
would be quickly struck. 

At 2 p.m. Jones reappeared, and started at once for the 
raft, but could not hurry the work, the men saying that the 
logs were unusually heavy. After dinner, not seeing any 
" dudes " around, Jones, who was beginning to recover from 
his fit of the sulks, invited me for a boat-ride, which it 
seemed most politic to accept. As he rowed he became more 
and more cheerful, told me of the terrible fate of women who 

flirted, and said, " That 's why me and M don't like 

women, an' never have nothin' to do with 'em. Yer see 
A , he 's never knowed no women anyway; he 's so bash- 
ful, that he 's afraid of even Miss , who 's been running 

after him so long, an' she ain't grand like you. I tell you I 
never could 'a' got him near you, but it was just your 
being so kind to me when I wuz sick that did it, and he 
wanted to do something for you ; so when I told him you 
two ladies was a-dyin' to go and stake out claims for your- 
selves, then says he, ' By gosh! John! they '11 do it, and you 
see if I don't help 'em, that 's what.' Now honest ; do you 
mean being nice to him like you are? coz, by George! if I 
thought you wuz just a-flirting I 'd put you down in the 
middle of this river jess as quick as look at yer, coz never 
mind how good you 've been to me, an' the likes o' that, 

A 's been good to me since I wuz a kid, an' I ain't never 

had no father nor mother to do nothin' for me nor the likes 
o' that." 

As he talked, honest John had rowed steadily Dawson- 
ward, where he had a commission to attend to. I asked to 
remain in the boat, but this request was most firmly refused. 
<( It ain't for the likes o' you to be a-sittin' down here 
'mongst all these rafts. I '11 just take you to the Alaska 
Commercial Company, where it 's always respectable, and 
come back for you as soon as possible " ; so down the principal 
street we walked. All the shows were in full force, bands 
playing, crowds before the saloons and gambling- places, and 
yet, even had I been absolutely alone and unprotected, I 
should have felt no fear. 



284 Two Women in the Klondike 

While we had been waiting for our stores from the Rideout 
another animatoscope had arrived in town, and had fore- 
stalled us, and this was their opening night. Crowds were 
hanging about the door awaiting admission. We were told 
that as the " lightning express" appeared, dashed on, and 
disappeared, the miners howled with delight, and that one of 
them stood up and shouted, " Run her through again ! run 
her through again ! I ain't seen a locomotive for nigh on 
ten years." To think what we have lost by the detention 
of our cargo ! Our ' ' lightning express ' ' will be old when it 
is finally turned over to us. 

On reaching the Alaska Commercial Company's platform, 
we found the Salvation Army holding its meeting, sur- 
rounded by miners and idle men. Jones found me a vacant 
seat, which I took, attracting no attention, and told him to 
hurry off on his errand. One or two dogs came to be petted, 
then a young man approached, raised his hat, saying, " Is 

this Mrs. H ? I am Mr. , and learning that you 

brought in a great many novels, magazines, and illustrated 
weeklies for winter reading, which you are not to remain 
and enjo} r , thought that you might be willing to dispose of 
them. If so, I should be very glad to take the lot," he 
added, with the air of a millionaire, " and I won't be greedy 
about the price, am willing to make just a small percent- 
age." " Do you purchase for cash ?" said I. " Well, no," 
he reluctantly admitted ; " I 'm sorry to say I have no cash 
whatever, and thought perhaps you 'd just let me take them 
on commission, as I 'm very much in need of money." 

Just then Von M appeared, and said, " The O 

Sisters are so excited by the success of the other animatoscope 
that they want to have ours, and are willing to give the 
building rent-free from two to six, and have benches made 
for the crowd which they expect. We must try and get the 
machine and appurtenances from the Rideout at once, as 
every day that the other show exhibits takes so much from 
our pockets and puts it into theirs, when we really should 
have been first in the field." Jones soon came to row me 
back to West Dawson. He and Von M spent the even- 



Trials of Building 285 

ing filling the little stove with wood until it became a flam- 
ing sheet of red iron, and still we were not warm. 

Wednesday, August 31st. 
Such a downpour of rain ! It starts the canary singing at 
the top of his voice, as he hears the patter on the tent-top. 

How grateful we are to Dr. C for his little tent within 

the big one ; it at least keeps us dry and away from the 
rivulets and rills which are beginning to form in various 
directions. At 8 a.m. the man with the horse and his assist- 
ant appeared. An overseer was absolutely necessary, as some 
neighbours had told us that they could spin out the job for 
any length of time otherwise ; so, buckled into rubber boots, 
bloomers, and a jersey, with the mercury at fifty degrees, I 
went out into the rain and down to the river- front to count 
how many logs had been hauled up after a thirty-three- 
dollar day's work. Only fifteen ! So it seemed better to 
strike a contract even at so late a time. The best they 
would listen to was ninety-eight dollars. As a man had told 
me that he and his partners could work faster without a horse 
than our employees with one, I went to them (my eight-dol- 
lars-a-day man having struck for ten) ; to n^ surprise they 
demanded one hundred and fifty dollars to carry the eighty- 
five remaining logs a distance of not more than one or two 
hundred feet. Back to the first men I went, knowing that 
my only protection was a contract, which was finally settled 
at eighty-five dollars; this relieved me from duty as overseer. 
Then came a man who revealed to us another expense. We 
must have someone to shingle the logs. Two men at ten 
dollars a day for five days ! Forty more logs still remained 
to be brought down from the raft ; no rope to do it with, so, 
as there was no place to purchase, we were forced to borrow. 
All our neighbours still in bed. I went to the tent of the 
invalid, as his partner had told us to call on him, and found 
both up and dressed, but the invalid was so weak that his 
partner and I both begged him to go to the hospital. The 
partner has been a kind, tender, and willing nurse, but has 
just heard of a big strike on Bonanza, to which he can go if 



286 Two Women in the Klondike 

relieved of this case and earn enough for two men, which is 
now quite necessary, as their funds are getting very low. 
After having offered any assistance in my power, I explained 
that my errand was only a borrowing one, and was at once 
given the desired rope. 

1 then returned to the big tent, where K , most patient 

of cooks and housekeepers, insisted upon my partaking of 
the breakfast she had kept warm for me. She had placed 
all the buckets outside of the tent in order to catch the rain- 
drops, as our kind neighbours, who generally keep us sup- 
plied from the spring, and with wood, had not yet opened 
their doors and seemed to be sleeping the sleep of the just. 

2 p.m. Our first visitor was the partner of the invalid, 
bringing his physician from Dawson, who wished to meet 
us. He had been but three weeks in this part of the coun- 
try, and brought much news from the " outside world." 

Neighbour E came out. " I 'm trying to catch a few 

rain-drops," said E , "aswe are both afraid to go down 

to the spring for fear of slipping." — " Give me your pail ; 
why did n't you call on me ? I 've only been lying down 
reading a novel. Just whistle the next time you want any- 
thing." While he was gone Jones arrived from Dawson 
with the ' ' boss carpenter ' ' whom he had engaged to hew and 
fit the logs, preparatory to the construction of the cabin. 
Ten dollars a day for ten hours' work of hewing. He 
promised to begin on the following morning at seven, Jones 
saying that he might live on this side and sleep in his tent. 
After they left, I went out to gather chips and small bits of 
wood to keep the fire going. The man who was hauling the 
logs called out, " Well, you '11 do to live in this country ; 
you work too hard to freeze. ' ' 

A messenger from W brought the following note, ad- 
dressed, " Mrs. H , The Big Tent: " " I saw the animato- 

scope last night ; it was a very poor show, but evoked great 
applause. We must get ours started at once before people 
tire of it, as it would be, at the present moment, a great suc- 
cess, for the other show has not the funeral of the Maine 
victims nor many other processions which the ' boys ' are 



Trials of Building 287 

anxious to see. Von M has done all in his power, but 

it is impossible to obtain from the Rideout your cargo which 
was promised you a month ago. Somebody ought to make 
the loss good." 

Shortly after, W himself arrived, and said, " I 've 

only five minutes to spare, but could n't resist the tempta- 
tion of running over to tell 3>ou about the show last night. 
They had n't the funeral of the Maine victims, nor the 
troops and patriotic scenes which we have, but the audience 
howled all the same, so it appears to me that we shall simply 
coin money, once we can get hold of that cargo." 

Von M soon came also, quite enthusiastic for him. 

"Well! I 've got permission to show it on Sunday, as I 
promised to give twenty-five per cent, of the receipts to the 
hospitals, which need money very badly. As there is nothing 
in the world for the people to do on that day, everything in 
town being closed, we ought to have the hall packed. As 
you took some lessons in San Francisco in order to teach 

your protege how to run it, Mrs. H , you 'd better come 

over to-morrow ; we '11 go with you to get the cargo, and 
then you can teach us how to run the machine, and make 
the lime-light, and we '11 start ahead at once." — " Oh, dear ! 
suppose I should have forgotten how to do it ! I had but 
two lessons, and that was last June ; and then fancy my go- 
ing into a hall to show you how to run a show. What would 
our mothers say?" This is our usual war-cry, but Von 

M , not knowing this, said, " Just fancy what my people 

would say at the thought of my really running a show. 
Would n't they be horrified ! " " That 's nawthin' ! " said 
Jones ; " it 's that there red necktie what they calls a noble- 
man, an' he such a dude, an' the likes o' that, goin' into it. 
What 'ud his swell friends in London say ? " — " What does 
it matter ? Everything goes in the Klondike, and we 've all 
got to go back with a pile. We 'd be ashamed to go other- 
wise, for everyone seems to think that you 've only got to 
reach the dock of Dawson to return home with a million or 
more." "What part am I to have in the show?" said 
K . " Oh, you can make out the list of views, and the 



288 Two Women in the Klondike 

list of music to be played in accompaniment, and then you 
can be present on the opening night and make it fashion- 
able. " B insisted, however, she wanted to do some of 

the real work, as it would be such a lark. ' ' Well, Mrs. H , 

will you be ready to go over and instruct us early in the 
morning ? " — " Must I go in at the general entrance ? Is n't 
there a side door?" — ''Oh, yes! we '11 smuggle you in 
through the stage door, though what do you care with 
such a splendid lot of escorts to protect you even from 
stray glances ? besides, no one is awake in Dawson before 
noon." 

Next visitor, the man with bill for one hundred sixteen- 
foot logs — one hundred and twenty-five dollars. " I have 
the money with which to pay you," said I; "but Mr. 

W , the lumber agent, tells me that you have not cleared 

them as you said, and that you must either pay him sixteen 
dollars taxes, and show me the receipt, or I must deduct it 
from your bill and give it to him." — " Then you 'd better 
deduct it, as I can't go over to town at once." On his de- 
parture we returned to the all-absorbing topic. We objected 
to a Sunday performance, but were overruled by our staff, 
who argued, " You 've done a lot of good with your church 
services here ; now why should n't you take the people from 
the streets and temptation ? — for you know how true it is that 
Satan finds mischief for idle hands, and you '11 be keeping 
them out of mischief while they 're looking at our naval 
heroes, and learning what they have done during the war; 
and then think of the big sum that will go towards the hospi- 
tal ; and last, but not least, of how we shall coin money ! " 

" That 's what we want to do," said E . " Think what 

a lot of good one can do in New York with it." " As for 
me," I interrupted, " ever since I saw that man from Daw- 
son board our steamer, with bologna sausages of gold dust 
thrown ' careless-like' around his neck, I 've been dying to 
imitate him. Fancy landing in San Francisco like that ! " 
— ' ' Everyone would feel certain that you had brought back 
millions, and then the mushrooms would ask how you made 
your money, and other mushrooms would be delighted to 



Trials of Building 289 

-whisper behind their fans that you made it running a show 

in Dawson, just as they said that Mrs. , or her mother, 

was at one time a laundress." — " What 's the difference, as 
long as you get the millions, and get them honestly ? And 

then, Mrs. H , you '11 be able to enjoy the two objects 

for which you are longing — your yacht, and establishing re- 
lief stations for the unemployed." 




FIRST AND ONLY FIRE ENGINE. 



' ' Have you heard the news ? ' ' called out one of the 
"boys" at the tent door after dinner. We thought from 
his tone that our army or navy had again been successful, 
and eagerly questioned him. " Why, there 's been an ex- 
plosion at the the-a-tre, an' Arizona Charlie's show of mov- 
ing pictures is bust up, so he had to return all the money. 
He could n't get the right kind o' oil or kerosene or some- 
thing, an' so used the only thing he could buy — a cheap 
19 



290 Two Women in the Klondike 

staff which exploded and burned his man terrible bad all 
over the face and hands and everywhere." 

Thursday, September 1st. 

Up at 6.30, and ready for the overseer at seven. He 
needed assistance in hewing the big logs, so while he was 
preparing them I, in rubber boots, tramped up the hill in 
search of some of the men engaged on the previous day. 
At half-past seven found number one, who promised to come 
after breakfast. A little after eight the man with the horse 
appeared ; I told him he would have to work hard to keep my 
men busy ; he said his partner was not yet up. Found two 
men and asked if they wanted work at seven dollars and fifty 
cents a day. ''With grub?" said they. " Not much," I 
replied, in the language of the country. " Wa'al ! I suppose 
we might as well go to work for a day or so. ' ' That gave 
me three assistants besides the boss. An old man appeared. 
" Can't you make work for me ? " — " How much do you 
want ? " — " Same as the others." — " All right, go ahead." 

When B awoke an hour later she was much surprised to 

find matters so far advanced. The man from the raft had 
joined the other workers, and the air was merry with the 
sound of hatchets, gee-hawing to the horse, and directions 
from the boss, whose name I had forgotten, so inquired once 

more. " George B ," said he, " and I 'd rather you 'd 

call me George." 

The fifth assistant applied, and was at once engaged. 
Then came " Frenchy " to know if we would employ a friend 
of his, but George said he had as many hands as he could 
keep occupied. E wanted some water for cooking pur- 
poses, so the " man with long hair " was told off to assist us, 
but when we asked him to go to the spring, of whose pure- 
water we one and all have spoken with great pride, he said, 
" You must not drink of that. I live up there on the hill, 
and if you could see the stuff the folks on the top throw into 
it, you 'd never touch it." 'T was like a thunder-clap from 
a clear sky. We called our neighbours in consultation, and 
found that they had known of it for the past two or three 



Trials of Building 291 

days, but had feared alarming us by imparting the informa- 
tion, so they had gone some distance whenever called upon 
to fill our water-buckets. They requested me to call the 
attention of the sanitary authorities in Dawson to the out- 
rage, which imperilled life and health, saying that much 
greater attention was paid to the request of a woman, and 
that, the regulation once made, they would promptly enforce 
the law, and woe to the man who then dared to pollute the 
spring. 

At 10 a.m. Jones and Von M turned up, each one 

with an invitation to go in his boat to Dawson. As I had 

important business, E promised to superintend the 

builders. Ivan accompanied us, wearing his fine new collar 
for the first time. As we were now preparing to leave for 
the " outside," and could not take our pets with us, we had 
accepted Jones's offer to raffle the parrot, which he took in 
his canoe. On nearing the banks of Dawson, there was the 
usual difficulty in working one's way through the rafts, 
which crowded the water-front to the obstruction and annoy- 
ance of all boat owners. My first visit was to the post-office ; 

Ivan alone accompanied me, as Von M and Jones were 

fully occupied in carrying the heavy boxes to the O Sis- 
ters' Theatre where our performance was to take place. ' ' The 
mail arrived yesterday, but will not be ready for distribution 
until the second or third of September, " was the answer to 
my question. " How soon will you send a mail to the 
United States?" — "We closed one yesterday at five 
o'clock?" — "Oh, what hard luck! Is there no way of 
overtaking it?" I asked. — "Just a chance, madam ; it was 
sent on board the Ora, which may not have sailed yet, so 
if — " but off I dashed to catch the Ora, which had blown 
her last whistle a few moments previously. Down the wharf 
I rushed, with Ivan at my side, for whom an admiring crowd 
made ready space. Many willing hands were extended as I 
jumped on board the steamer, and the purser kindly accepted 
my batch of letters. 

From there to L 's. The great man was behind the 

counter of his little shop, in his shirt-sleeves, waiting on an 



292 Two Women in the Klondike 

Indian who was trying to drive a sharp bargain over some 
cups and saucers. I asked about our long-delayed cargo ; 
told him of the great loss we had sustained, and that during 
our months of waiting another animatoscope had forestalled 
us. He replied that we would be very lucky if we were not 
forced to pay the freight to the agents of the Rideout, as 
many other passengers had done, with the hope of collecting 
from the Johnson-Locke Company (with which he had sev- 
ered connection some time previously) on returning to San 
Francisco. He said, however, that our cargo had been 
turned over to the Collector of Customs, to whom we must 
now apply. He added that he was leaving for New York 
on the eleventh, and when I said that we had been obliged 
to postpone our date of departure from the first to the 
fifteenth, shook his head and thought that we were running 
a great risk, as, in case the water fell, or the ice formed, we 
might be shut in for the winter. I hurried to the Customs 
Office, which is in the same building as the Alaska Com- 
mercial Company, and, meeting a fellow-passenger, was told 
to remain below, as the collector was a friend of his, and 
that he would have our affairs attended to at once. I gladly 
waited, seated on the counter, Dawson fashion, and held a re- 
ception. S , W , M , Dr. C , and any number 

of others. S came to say good-bye, as he was just leav- 
ing " for the outside" on the Hannah. " I 've fixed it," 

said , as he came down-stairs. " He '11 be ready to clear 

your things to-morrow morning at ten o'clock." — " But we 
must have the animatoscope at once ; that 's what I came 

over for, — to teach Von M how to run it. Won't he let 

me have just that ? " — " I 'd rather you would n't ask him. 
I '11 do it if you say so, but advise strongly against it." 
After a hurried consultation with Von M — r— , we concluded 
that, after so much delay, twenty-four hours more would 
matter very little. 

Starting out, K came running breathless, holding a 

home letter high in air, saying, " I saw this at the post- 
office, and coaxed them to give it to me for you." Down I 
sat on a box in front of a shop and eagerly read : " Colorado 



294 Two Women in the Klondike 

Springs, July 13th. My dear Mrs. H . This letter will 

probably never reach you, but if it should, it will assure you 
how greatly I am interested in you and your ventures," etc. 

' ' Letter from home ? Good news ? ' ' called Q , as he 

stopped, carrying me back from Colorado to Dawson, and 
reminding me that I must visit the Crown Timber Agent 
and pay the tax on the lumber. ' ' How much do you intend 
to tax a poor widow for the few logs she uses in building her 
cabin?" said I, entering his office. He laughed, and, as 
though the matter had never before been referred to him, in- 
quired, " How many logs ? What length ? How many feet 
for the house ? " — when I interrupted him, saying, " Do not 
forget that I may spend the winter in Ottawa, where I shall 
have a chance of reporting you if your taxes are too steep." 
— " That would be the best thing that could happen to me, 
if you would let them know that I 'm collecting a goodly 
amount for the Government. " " Make out your bill quickly, ' ' 
said I, "as this is a busy day ; and bear in mind all the 
solemn warnings to those who impose upon the widow and 
the fatherless." He chuckled, cast a side-glance at the few 
men sitting about, whose grins straightway disappeared, 
leaving the usual look of gloom upon their countenances, 
and then said, " Would } t ou mind coming again when I have 
more time to attend to it ? " 

Glancing at my list, I saw that E had jotted down 

pearl ine or washing soda. From one end of the town to 
the other I went in search of it, in every shop, but only 
one tiny box was to be obtained, containing about an ounce, 
price two dollars and fifty cents. 

The commissions finished, I went back to the Alaska 
Commercial Company, to await Jones and the boat, and sat 

on a box outside the store. Miss B joined me, saying 

that she intended to remain " in " for the winter, and was 
going to live in a cabin up the creek, where the miners had 
been most kind and hospitable, and had not only given her 
food but had also slept in the open air, and turned over to 
her their log house during her short stay. 

Mrs. M stopped to inquire when we should be able to 



Trials of Building 295 

leave. She said that her husband was doing very well, get- 
ting never less than sixteen dollars a visit from each of his 
patients, and that, though she dreaded the thought, she felt 
that she must remain through the ice and snow. 

At 2.30 Jones came to row me back. We found Dr. C 

calling 011 E , who was deep in the work of making out 

lists of our music, slides, and films. No sooner had I seated 

myself at the lunch-table than Mrs. R , Miss D , and 

her small sister appeared. They had heard that we were 

about to leave and said that M had made their mouths 

water at the thought of the delicious food we had brought in 
and begged us to sell to them rather than lock the articles 
in our cabin or take them back. We allowed them to look 
over the lists, to taste the tomato soup and the cider, the 
fame of which had gone abroad, and promised to let them 
have what they wanted, upon condition that they- should 
find out Dawson prices for the desired articles, saying that 
we would sell for a little less. 

K , Von M , Jones, and W spent the evening, 

but, although the little stove around which we gathered was 
of a deep red hue, and we were wrapped in furs and 
" plaidies," we were in a half- frozen condition. A number 
of our neighbours dropped in and exchanged yarns. One 
told us a particularly good bear story, to which it is quite 
impossible for me to do justice, and of his experiences in 
11 coming in." He and his partner were passing through a 
thick copse of wood with about fifty pounds each strapped 
on their backs, when they heard an unearthly howl and saw 
before them a bear with two cubs. " My partner, who had 
never seen a bear before, gave only one glance at this one as 
she rose on her hind legs, turned ashy white, and made for 
the creek, into which he jumped, although well aware of the 
fact that it would carry him down-stream at a rapid rate. 
The bear had been hidden from us by a lot of wood, which 
had been prepared for sluice-boxes. With my heavy pack 
it was difficult for me to reach my rifle, so I began to go 
backwards as quickly as possible, while trying to unhitch it. 
The two cubs climbed a tree, but the mother advanced 



296 Two Women in the Klondike 

steadily. She was very near when I finally managed to get 
a shot, wounding her in the neck. This delayed her for a 
moment, but caused her to be more ferocious than ever. 
The second shot laid her out long enough for me to take 
good aim and kill her. I left the cubs to look out for them- 
selves, and started in search of G . He had been picked. 

up by some men in a boat, and joined me towards evening, 
very much ashamed of his inglorious conduct." 

E told of a visit Isaacs had paid her during the day, 

and of the following conversation : "I 'm sorry I did n't 

understand you ladies better, but Mrs. H always seemed 

so 'aughty-like to me that I did n't realise she was book- 
writin' and could n't be disturbed, but used to get hangry 
'cause she never joined in my conversation. Now you, 

Miss V , if you did n't talk to me I thought it was 'cause 

Mrs. H frowned upon it and that made me 'ot, and so I 

would n't do what you told me to ; but since I 've been out 
on me lay, I 've been thinking it over, and have come to the 
conclusion that I could get on first-rate now ; and then you 
did have such nice dainty luxuries to eat that a man never 
sees out 'ere. By the way, have you received your cargo 
yet ? Do you know what the story is over in town ? ' That 
the haristocracy 's living hover in the big tent with a 
grave-robber to take care of them.' Suppose you 've 'eard 
me called the grave-robber ? Not a word o' truth in it. I 
never overturned a shovelful. I will admit that I had ar- 
ranged with some of the fellows (and some that you 'd be 
surprised to know of, if Zeke should give you their names, 
but 'e 's not telling any tales) to open the grave of an Indian 
chief and take out a lot of curios, but some'ow or other we 
never managed to do it. Zeke got the reputation for it all 
right, and the others went scot-free, but 'e never peached. 
Now there 's a lot of the boys on this side an' the hother as 
swells around in your heasy chairs, an' they 're no better 
than Zeke (for he always looked out for your interest), an' 

they are a-tryin' to do you. There was that little Dr. . 

I made up me mind as 'ow 'e was tryin' to get money from 
you to put in a lot o' schemes as was no good, but I hasked 



Trials of Building 297 

everywhere and found out that 'e was all right, and so I said 
nothink, but I kep' me eyes open, an' sez I, Zeke '11 not 
hinterfere unless they try to do some hactive hinjury to 
those ladies, an' as they never did, I 'eld me peace." 

Friday, September 2d. 

Up at six, and discussing with George at seven the ad- 
visability of putting on an extra force in order to have the 
house finished in a couple of days, as the mercury is now at 
forty degrees, and the place so damp from the upturned earth 
that my dreams were of sleeping in marshes and creeks. 
Warming the tent is like trying to heat the open air, for 
half of it is raised in order to admit one side of the new 
building. The trenches were dug until they filled with 
water, which was drained off, and solid ice struck, on which 
the foundations were placed. At 10 a.m., as neither Jones 

nor Von M had put in an appearance, Ivan accompanied 

me to the water's edge, to see if there was a chance of getting 
across to attend to the necessary commissions. Two of our 
neighbours from Ottawa, the ones who had presented us with 
the ducks, had started, but on seeing me called out to know 
if I wanted to go to Dawson, and not only returned, but went 
to their cabin for a tiny camp-stool to put in the bottom of 
the canoe. We were soon in town, and as usual my first visit 

was to the Alaska Commercial Company, where M met 

me, to assist in getting the cargo through the Custom House. 

Up to the office we went. No collector, no assistant col- 
lector. From place to place went my helpful friend, I not 
daring to move from the Alaska Commercial Company's 

platform, lest he should return with Mr. D . No such 

luck, however, until a few moments before twelve, when he 
said, " The collector will attend to it directly after luncheon 
— about two o'clock." — " Can he not give me an order to get 
out some few things that I must have immediately ? He 
knows that all charges will be paid," so Mr. R soon se- 
cured the desired bit of paper. My reception then came to 

an end, and, accompanied by Mr. Von M and Dr. C , 

we went in search of the storage warehouse, to which our 



298 Two Women in the Klondike 

goods had been taken. " What do you ask for having kept 
them a day?" — "Fifty dollars, madam; there are five 
tons." — " For one day ? " — " For one day or one month ; 
we never take them for less time than a month. Have you 
clearance papers?" He was handed the valuable order, 
satisfied himself, then said, " You must now find the agent 
for the Rideout and pay his dues before anything can be re- 
moved." W went in one direction, Von M in an- 
other, Dr. C remaining with me. The agent shortly 

after made his appearance. One of his bills was forty dollars 
for transporting the bowling-alley from the steamer to the 
warehouse, a distance of not more than two blocks, but I was 
grateful to him for having paid the bill instead of leaving 
it in the street, and found him a most courteous man to deal 
with. Von M and the others soon found the boxes con- 
taining the manganese, the chloride, and the gasoline, and 
took out enough to generate gas. 

As we were about to start for the hall, Mr. H appeared, 

saying, " I have just been to West Dawson to see about the 
books, and as I have an offer for the entire lot at twenty- 
five cents each, — books, newspapers, weeklies, etc., — Miss 

V considers that it would be preferable to distributing 

them between dozens who may leave many on your hands, 
particularly as a man is expected in at any moment with five 
thousand." — "And your commission?" — "Two cents a 
book." It was hard to think of some of them going for that 

price, but time is growing short, so I went with H and 

his backer to have the bags opened, and they were delighted 
with the appearance of our winter library. Down I sat on 

the floor, checking off as H counted. It was slow work 

but, when finished, I was given $153.25 in gold dust for what 
had cost us $49.78. My " staff" were ready to escort 

me to the O Sisters', when R passed, and holding 

up a bottle of malted milk, said, " Think of it ! four dollars 

for this ! but poor A can live on nothing else, as he has 

typhoid fever." I wanted to go and help nurse him, but 
upon learning that he had secured the services of a trained 
nurse, felt that he would be well cared for. 



Trials of Building 299 

We entered the theatre through the side door, and went 
behind the scenes. Dr. C studied the instructions care- 
fully, and in a few moments was making the lime-light as 
though he had been in the business for years. Under my 
instructions Von M , aided by W , soon had the ma- 
chine in position, and all was working beautifully, when we 
discovered a leak in the bags. The members of the staff 
here assured me that as they now thoroughly understood 
the principle of the thing, it would not be necessary for me 
to wait, so W escorted me back to the Alaska Com- 
mercial Company to keep my appointment with M , who 

was to have crossed the river with me at 4 p.m. As the rain 
was then coming down in torrents, we sought shelter in a 
warehouse near the boat and seated ourselves on a couple 
of boxes. 

" John tells me you '11 not be able to leave Dawson before 
the eleventh," said he. ' l No ; we have our house to finish 
and all our cargo to store in it before we can get away." 
*' Well, I must get my ticket so as to be on hand to help you 
over the summit, for if so many passengers are a-going, 
you '11 have to walk faster than you did on the trail to the 
mines. And I must get a man to work your Bear Creek 
mine for you. You '11 just give him a lease for the winter, 
and he gets half he takes out, and in the spring you '11 be 
coming back again to see the clean-up," and this kindly 
fellow seemed to take as much interest in the mine as though 
it were his own. " You know you asked me to tell you of 
anything fine I might see. Well, there 's a claim that I can 
get for three thousand dollars, and it 's in the Gulch too. 
I 've bought so many miles of claims that I can afford to let 

a good one go to a friend, and it 's A M that says 

it will be worth next year a cool hundred thousand." Mrs. 

U here joined us and had a short conversation with this 

Klondike King, whom I presented to her. Six o'clock came 

and she left. Men had already discovered " Big A 's " 

whereabouts, and were hanging about, ready to buttonhole 
him, while two members of my staff were waiting for me. 
" I '11 come to-morrow to the ' big tent ' at six o'clock, if 



3oo Two Women in the Klondike 

you want me," said A , as I was about to leave, " al- 
though some business may keep me from it." 

As Von M and W were escorting me to the boat, 

the former was called away. After a few moments he re- 
turned laughing, and said, " Here 's a good joke on some- 
one ! ' Arizona Charlie ' wants to see me at eight o'clock this 
evening on important business. Evidently since the ex- 
plosion his man can't run his show, and he probably thinks 
I'man expert. ' ' We conjured up all sorts of reasons for the 
appointment — perhaps that he wanted to buy us out at a 
large figure. It was quite late when we reached the tent, 

where E sat hugging the stove. She had been almost 

drowned out by the rain, and was greatly discouraged, as 
the men had all stopped work. She heated some macaroni 
and cheese for us, and gave us some beans, toast, and prunes, 
which we ate with the usual relish. As we got into Von 

M 's canoe to come across we found that another raft had 

come in and blocked all chance of exit. Von M com- 
menced untying the knot when a coarse voice shouted, 
' ' Don't you dare to touch that raft ! " * ' I '11 not only touch 
it, but will cut it and let it float down-stream if you talk in 

that style ! ' ' shouted Von M , who was tired and hungry, 

having eaten nothing since early morn. This language had 
its effect in bringing down the owner of the raft with a couple 
of men who said in apologetic tones, " I say, pardner, no 
offence ; I did n't know you could n't get out," and they 
worked to such good effect that in a few moments a passage- 
way was opened for which Von M thanked them as cor- 
dially as though there had been no harsh language. When 
we neared the bank Ivan jumped out on a rock which was 
so slippery that he fell back into the water and could not 

gain a foothold. Mr. B clutched him by the collar, 

which was more beautiful than useful and promptly slipped 
over the dog's head. After a struggle of at least five min- 
utes, in which my heart was in my mouth, he was safely 
landed, and ran to the tent shaking and shivering. 

After dinner, as the " boys " were all gathered around our 
stove spinning yarns, Y said, " Oh, Mrs. H ! An- 



Trials of Building 3 01 

other Klondike King has come to town. I walked to the 
post-office with him, where he got such a funny letter that 
I begged him to lend it to me for you to see." " How good 
of you ! Read it aloud ! " said I, and we listened to the fol- 
lowing : 

" Mr : I am going to write you a few lines. It will be 

very strange for you to get this. You will perhaps think 
this is surely a scheme. But I see in the paper of your im- 
mense wealth, and I thought perhaps you would buy back 
my Home that we lost about eight years ago and I had 
worked so hard to get, but reverses in Business we lost it but 
I do so much wish you would Buy it and if you ever come 
back and have no one to take care of you I would gladly do 
so. I know you have plenty money, and on that you could 
get anything you Desired but you know that many a man 
has had lots and lost it you can buy my Home, and realy 
you would not miss it out of so much money as you have, 
and I could live in it again and I pay the taxes, and the 
Deed in your name and if you come back to the States you 
will have a nice Home We sold it for Twenty Hundred 

Dollars and it is No Street now if you don't 

want to do that, you can tell me how I can invest a few 
dollars out there that would make me that much. To get 
my Home back I would even gone out there myself as I have 

a friend Mrs. of that was going with her husband, 

but at last they gave it up and I had n't enough money to 
go myself. I am not a young woman any more, and I would 
send you one of my Pictures but am afraid you would perhaps 
Ridicule it I could write you a whole lot more, but if you 
should get this and answer, and I hope you will, You may per- 
haps call this a Polite way of begging But I don't mean it that 
way at all. You Buy the Place, get the Abstract, and I 
live there But it will be in your own name, and if I should 
die without seeing you It will be the same. No one has so 
much money that they could afford to invest so much that 
would only bring them so small Interest on their Money. 
But ever since I read about you in the paper I had thought 
of writing But I could not hardly do so, as I was afraid you 



302 Two Women in the Klondike 

would think I was a fraud, but I signs my own name, and 
will give you refference when you write to me. Respectfully 

your true friend Box " 

" I can get a better one than that for you. D D 



received it last week after some correspondent sent a letter 
to his paper in Kalamazoo, telling how rich he was. " " And 
I '11 get you a fine one," said another, " if you want to make 
a collection. Those who strike it rich receive them by the 
hundred, and I really think they ought to publish them, 
names and all, because it 's becoming a perfect nuisance." 

As we were planning to have our cargo moved from the 
warehouse to our new cabin, which is to be finished in a few 

days, Colonel Q advised us strongly not on any account 

to do so, saying, " Never mind how strong the lock, should 
the winter be a hard one, people knowing of the comforts 
and luxuries not being used, and thinking you enormously 
wealthy, would be too greatly tempted to help themselves." 
The other men in the party all agreed with him, and advised 
us strongly to dispose at once of everything which we can- 
not use, and which we do not care to pay heavy freight upon. 
Jones came in and announced that the parrot, which was 
being raffled for fifty dollars, had dropped from its perch and 
died shortly after. 




CHAPTER XXIV 



BUSINESS PROPOSITIONS 



Saturday, September 3d. 

UP at half-past five to write yesterday's experiences before 
the arrival of the men and the interruptions consequent 
thereon. Mercury thirty-nine degrees ! Almost too cold to 
hold a pen. Never before have I so appreciated sunshine 
nor so longed for the gorgeous orb to make its appearance. 
At seven, one of the men gathered wood and started a fire, 
which scarcely made any difference in the atmosphere. A 
man appeared asking for work, saying that he and his part- 
ners were in great need of money. On learning the terms, 
he went back to inform them, and returned, saying, " We 
don't care to take it for so little as seven dollars and a half a 
day." As we sit in steamer chairs shivering with the cold, 
while watching the slow work on our new cabin, how incon- 
gruous seems the note just written to the postmaster to 
change our address from Dawson, Yukon Territory, to Palace 
Hotel, San Francisco ! How impossible seems the thought 
of being in the midst of luxuries once more, of having a nice 
warm room in which to dress, and to choose just what one 
likes to eat. We shall have to live on the American plan 
this time, as the European would cost us a small fortune 
with the appetites we now have in reserve. Yet how often 
shall we find the rooms overheated, the atmosphere that of 
a conservatory, the life limited and restrained, and long for 
the wilderness and the freedom thereof. A taste of such 
liberty as this must finally spoil one for civilisation. 

Breakfast over, Von M came to inquire if I would be 

303 



304 Two Women in the Klondike 

ready to go to town by ten o'clock. ' ' That will give me just 
time to make my bread," said he. " Why do you bother 

with making it ? We ' re going to buy ours, ' ' E replied. 

" So should I if I had the shekels," laughed Von M , 

as he strode off to his tent. Mr. J and Mr. B were 

also invited to cross in Von M 's canoe, and as we had 

the Criterion, the music sheets, and the magic-lantern slides 
to take, Ivan was left at home notwithstanding his loud and 

vigorous protests. J had an appointment and left us 

as soon as we touched shore. B and Von M com- 
menced to lift the box containing the heavy Criterion which 
was to play the music for the moving pictures, the weight 
of which far exceeds one hundred pounds. ' ' Hire some men 
for that; }^ou will break your backs," I urged. ''Then 

we 're of no use for this country," retorted Von M , as 

he climbed the steep hill and with B staggered to the 

" hall." I followed with the magic-lantern slides, taking 
them to a room which the staff had engaged for the purpose 
of practising. 

They said they should not need me for some time, so off I 
went to the Alaska Commercial Company, meeting Miss 

, who said, " I was just watching for you. You must 

let us have some of those articles which }^ou expected to use 
this winter had you remained. Papa wants to see you also, 
for you have many things which we need, and shall not be 
able to have sent in until next spring or summer. Won't 
3^ou come with me? Papa 's just gone up the street, and 
we '11 overtake him in a moment," and the attractive young 
girl waited for me while my commissions were attended to at 
the Alaska Commercial Company, then accompanied me to 
the Recorder's office, she in search of her father, I, to find 

Captain B to induce him to have some action taken, 

some law passed, in regard to our polluted spring. There 
was a dense crowd of miners at the door who had been 
standing in line for days, hoping to record claims to which 
they had tramped, then prospected, and finally staked, but 
they politely made way for us to enter. Both of our men 
had left. 



Business Propositions 3°5 

As we started back I was stopped by the proprietor of 
Hotel, who, introducing himself, said, " They tell me 



that you and Miss V have been waiting here all summer 

for your winter's supplies, and that now just as they 've 
•come you 're both ' going out.' Everybody supposes as how 
the grub that you have got is such stuff as one can't buy 
here, and as it would n't be safe to lock it up for the winter 
with a lot o' starvin' men about, I 'm ready to take the 
whole lot of it off your hands ; and if you don't sell it to me, 
I '11 have to go out over the Pass an' then like as not, be 
kept out until it 's too late. Another man approached. 

< ' Is this Mrs. H ? I am Mr. C . Heard that M 

had begged you to bring in an animatoscope show for him, 
and that after you got it here you had concluded not to let 
him have it. Now, if you 've made no other arrangements, 
I should like to buy out the entire outfit, as I have much 
idle time on my hands, my cargo not having arrived. I 've 
travelled all over the country, showing ' moving pictures ' 
•of every description. ' Arizona Charlie ' wants me to run 
liis (suppose you heard that he 's had an explosion), but I 
have refused, as I want to start one of my own, and they tell 
me you ladies got the very best of everything to give that 

protege of yours." Mr. D here interrupted, asking if 

he might see my invoice of winter's supplies, and if he might 
liave first choice. 

11 Excuse me," said a man, raising his hat, " but can't I 
interrupt for just one moment ? Hearing that you ladies had 
just received your winter's supplies, as you were going back 
home, and making sure you would n't take them ' out ' with 
you, paying fifteen to twenty-five cents freight, nor lock 
them up where so many will need 'em, shut in here all 
winter, I made so bold as to go over to the ' big tent,' where 

I saw Miss V , and told her I 'd take the entire cargo, 

which she said would be much better than dividing it up 
among all who are trying to get it." " Good-morning, Mrs. 

H ," said H . " My friend, , the stationer, is 

about out of stock and wants to know if you won't let him 
liave your winter's supply instead of locking it up ; and as 



306 



Two Women in the Klondike 



for groceries, there 's a corner in the market and you 
can make a very handsome profit, if you will dispose of 
yours. ' ' 

During these interviews I had continued the walk down 
to the Customs Office ; entered, and received a bill for 
$263 duties ! " Will you give me the bill to show Miss 
V ? "— " No, certainly not ! "— " Not even a receipt ? " 





f 




PACIFIC HOTEI-J 


',;. '.'■-«• .- 


, ,' 






I "■ 





THE STATIONER'S STORE. 



I queried. " Why, no ! You 've got your goods, and 
you 've paid for them ; what more do you Want ? " On my 
way out, I was joined by R , who said that he had en- 
gaged the only cabin on the Ora for K and me, and ad- 
vised us to take our robes and pillows, as the bunks were 
not furnished, and we should be obliged to " turn in " on 

a piece of stretched canvas. Then came M , who said, 

" Had such fun at the masquerade ball last night ! I went 



Business Propositions 3°7 

as a giddy blonde, dressed decollete, with short skirts and 
stockings filled with chips, and wore long golden curls ; I 
would n't have missed it for the world, for ' Nigger Jim' 
spent two hundred and fifty dollars in chips and drinks on 
me, before he discovered I was a man. ' ' 

Mrs. U next came and seated herself at my side on 

the Alaska Commercial Company's platform, where we 
chatted for half an hour while waiting for my trusty boat- 
man. Then I saw long strides, and handsome M ap- 
proached. " It is only five," said I, " and you were not 
to go over till six. What a pleasant surprise ! " — " I only 
just came to chat for a moment and to know if you really 
expect me at six." Receiving a reply in the affirmative, he 

left as R joined me, only to be buttonholed by two men 

as he was saying, " I '11 be back in an hour." " I want to 

lay a proposition before you," said R . " A friend of 

mine has just staked a splendid claim on Creek, No. 

— . He is the first one on it, but can't get into the Re- 
corder's office, and fears that someone will discover its value 
— some man with a pull who can get in there before him. 
He needs money so badly that if you will let him have a 
hundred dollars and get one of your friends to help him in 
to record his claim, he will give you one quarter interest in 
it." " I 'm awfully sorry ! It 's easy for a woman to enter 
there, owing to the great courtesy of the miners, but how to 
get a man in is a problem quite beyond me." 

" Have been looking for you everywhere. A 's ready 

and waiting, ' ' interrupted the cheery voice of Jones. ' ' Have 

you finished all your business ? Miss V sent me for 

you." So with two escorts down the bank, into the canoe 
I went, and was speedily rowed across by the stout arms of 

good old Jones. In landing, M attempted to assist me 

up a bank much steeper than the place where we generally 
landed. Jones, who was tying the boat called out, " She 

can't do that ; go around the other way," to which A 

replied, " If she 's going over the summit, the quicker she 
learns the better," and with the aid of his strong hand, I 
sprang lightly over ground from which I should have shrunk 



308 Two Women in the .Klondike 

in fear and trembling only a few months ago. " By gosh ! 
you 're a trump ! There 's nobody living in these parts 
could do better than that," said my trusty guide. " Is the 
summit very much more difficult than this?" I asked 

anxiously. ' ' You bet ! ' ' replied ' ' Big A ' ' with such 

an air of conviction that my heart sank, and doubts began 
to arise as to whether I should dare attempt so perilous a 
trip. 

E had a nice dinner ready for us — her fish with sauce 

hollandaise being delicious. M was preoccupied, and 

had little to say, but, in walking out before the tent, he 
confided to me that he felt heavily the responsibility of hav- 
ing offered to escort us over the Pass, as business was still 
pressing on all sides, and so much remained to be done that 
he greatly feared not being able to leave by the fifteenth 
even, in which case there was danger of the river freezing us 
in, so that we might be obliged to spend the winter on the 
tiny steamer, with scant provisions and perhaps not fuel 
enough to keep warm, and that, for two such ' ' grand ladies, 
accustomed to every comfort, would be a terrible thing. I 
have so many big deals on, so many leases to prepare and 
sign, so many transactions that must be finished before I 
leave, ' ' said he, ' ' that I may not know until the last mo- 
ment on what day I can start. Could you be ready at an 
hour's notice?" he inquired anxiously. "Sure," said I. 
He looked relieved. " And now will you be excusing me, 
for I have more engagements for the night than I well can 

meet," and with a few pleasant words of adieu to E , off 

he went in a tiny canoe, when he might have had steam- 
launch and crew at his command. 

The rain is again coming down in torrents. We are 
worried beyond measure that the house, which we had been 
told would be finished by Saturday night, is still far from 
completion, and that the cost is to be nearly eight times the 
estimated price ; that the principal part of the animatoscope 
is missing ; and that we may be " frozen in " before we can 
get everything arranged satisfactorily. All this, combined 
with the rain, the general dampness of everything belonging 



Business Propositions 3°9 

to us, the impossibility of making a fire burn with wet wood, 
and the chilliness of the air, had such a depressing effect upon 
our spirits, that for the first time we felt thoroughly inhos- 
pitable, so shut up the tent, put out the lights, and crawled 
into our beds without receiving any visitors after dinner. 
As may readily be imagined the thought of the possibility 
of a winter in these icy regions was far from cheering, and 
as a result we both had very little sleep. 

Sunday, September 4th. 

Rain still falling in torrents. Ground so damp that the 
water oozes out wherever our feet touch the earth, even in 
our living part of the tent. Mercury thirty-eight degrees. 
Camping-out is no longer a pleasure, and we glance at our 
roofless home, so near and so inviting, wondering when we 
shall be able to move in. Oh, if the sun only would come 
out now that we need it so much ! After breakfast Von 

M appeared to ask if we had any commissions for town, 

as he was going over and expected to be able to give the 

show. While B prepared the breakfast, I was engaged 

in the dignified task of gathering wood, being protected 
from the rain by rubber boots and mackintosh. I made 
three attempts to start the fire, but, though carefully tended 
and nurtured, it died upon each occasion a sudden death, 
either from the ignorance of the builder, or from the green- 
ness or dampness of the wood. Had it not been for the con- 
venient oil-stove, we should have gone hungry. But we were 
in a half- frozen condition, and I was scarcely able to hold a 
pen, when I attempted my daily record. At ten, Jones 
arrived, and, by saturating the green wood with coal oil, he 
soon had a brilliant flame, which was the most cheerful 
event of the morning. 

2.30. Arrival of some of the " boys " from the Com- 
pany. After a visit of half an hour M exclaimed, 

" Don't you want me to make some muffins for luncheon ? " 
— " What ! have you not yet lunched ? It 's three o'clock." 
— " No ; wanted to make muffins here, because you enjoy 
them so — and so do we. " In a few moments, this society boy 



3io Two Women in the Klondike 

from home had a pan of flour, corn-meal, and butter, and 
was deep in the mysteries of the kitchen. Such delicious 
muffins ! and as we ate them, and enjoyed the other viands 

which E prepared, M said, " I never told you about 

the wedding. They asked me to make the cards, ' nice and 
neat and kinder fancy, with birds and flowers.' Only em- 
ployees of the Company were invited. They all sat with 
their feet under their chairs around the stove, which was well 
pulled out so as not to scorch the wall-paper. The bride was 
coy, although not terribly embarrassed. There would be 
long pauses, and then somebody would get up the nerve to 
tell a story, but there was n't much laughing, except at 

those S ■ told, and of course we had to roar at those." 

Someone interrupted, " One does that naturally, for S 

is a most brilliant man at a dinner, and all that he tells is 
well worth listening to." — " That 's true, too, and we all 
recognise it, but whether it were so or not, we 'd feel obliged 
to laugh loud and long just the same. Well ! to go back to 
the wedding, the champange flowed like water, and oh ! my 
head ! my head ! it 's awful ; and I don't know what time 
the affair came to an end. 

" Do let me press another muffin upon you, Jack. You 
have n't thrown up the sponge already? Why, I 'm just 
beginning to lay in my winter's supply, and I '11 ' lay to ' on 
the rest of the muffins in a minute. I tell you they 're good, 
even if I did make 'em myself, with these dainty paws of 
mine, and it is more fun picnicking over here than going 
back to the four- o'clock dinner. They give us plenty of good 
grub, but if you 're not at your meals on time, there 's a 
kick, and some fellow calls out, * If ye had n't come in just 
when yer did yer 'd er got swapped right in the necktie.' 
Excuse my Klondike slang, ladies, and don't let my ma get 
onto any o' these fine expressions, for she 's the dearest, 
loveliest, and most particular of old ladies you ever beheld, 
but it is such fun to pick up all the phrases that you dare n't 
use at home," and the handsome boy stuffed his tenth muffin 
into his mouth, and sat with a rapt expression of enjoyment. 
Just then a little field-mouse ran near the stove, picking up 



Business Propositions 3 11 

the crumbs that had fallen. With a shriek I jumped up on 
the bench, calling, " Kill it ! kill it quick ! Don't let it get 

away," while E was equally vociferous, begging that 

its life might be spared, as it was " a dear little thing, and 
so tame, ' ' but my terror caused the ' ' boys ' ' to put an end 
to the existence and future unhappiness of the rodent, par- 
ticularly after K said, " Why I watched him playing on 

your mattress this morning, but never told you for fear 
you 'd make just such a scene." 

As we gathered around the stove in which the ' ' boys ' ' 

had succeeded in building a magnificent fire, K said, 

<l The May West is in with a cargo of one hundred marriage- 
able widows. I 'd like to cut the rope and let her go out 
with them all, and the boys are very much inclined to do the 
same, and if you were to see them you 'd think us quite 
right. Such a lot of frights the eyes of man never beheld ! 

Now, Mrs. H , if you really do come in next year, and 

bring some pretty girls with you, think what a blessing it 
will be for the ' boys ' who cannot get on the ' outside ' 
without imperilling their millions ; and how fine it would be 
for the girls also, for you can answer for us, and know what 
a splendid lot of husbands we would make." I was not sur- 
prised to learn later that the story about the widows was a 
hoax. 

K had a long search for the meat for dinner, but the 

box in which it had been placed was empty, and the bread 
near it had also disappeared. Not a nook or cranny was left 
without thorough investigation. At last Ivan, who had been 
soundly sleeping all day, rolled over and revealed to us half 
a loaf of bread, giving us a decided clue to the culprit, who 
was quite unconscious of the betrayal of his secret. " How 

could he have found it ? " said K ; " I not only hid it 

deep in the box, but covered it with dozens of papers." 

After the departure of M and his friend, the fire began 

to die out again, and we were in despair, when good Jones 
arrived. " I 've been a-thinkin' o' you ladies all day," said 
he, " and wonderin' if you wuz a-freezin' to death, but 
could n't for the life o' me git across the river, and, as it is, I 



312 Two Women in the Klondike 

got to be back to a seven o'clock chicken-dinner ; but I sup- 
pose your dude friends has been here and made you a nice 
fire and done your cookin' for you just as John would V 
done if he 'd been here. Hulloa ! what 's the meanin' o' all 
them dirty dishes ? Do you mean to say they ett with 3'ou 
and then left you all them dirty dishes to wash ? Well, did 
yer ever see the likes o' that ? I tell you I ain't goin' to- 
wash after them. I '11 slave for you and do what no money 
cud hire me to, but them dudes kin just wash their own 
dishes." " Quite right," said we, as he dropped into a 
chair in a state of indignation. " They generally do ' clean 
up ' before they go, but they had n't time to-day. We '11 
do it ourselves." As we slowly made preparations to begin 
work, Jones relented and said, " It 's a low trick they done 
you, but I ain't a-goin' to see you ladies a-washin' up, so 
I '11 have to do it. Here 's a nice mince-pie I brought you, 
an' it 's red hot, just feel it." A mince-pie is something 
I never touch at home, but the honest fellow had tried so- 
hard to please us that I ate two pieces with gusto, to his 
great satisfaction. 

Everything was soon in apple-pie order, the fire blazing, 
and as we heartily thanked our kind neighbour, he said, " I 
don't want no thanks, but I just want you to notice the 
difference between me and them there dudes o' yourn, who 
would n't give you a hand to cross the summit, I '11 be bound. 
I dined with A to-night and he says he 'd give two thou- 
sand dollars down if Pat Galvin 'd come in and pay him that 
one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, so 's he could start 
out to-morrow with you two ladies, for he just thinks you 're 
the nicest things on earthy and he 's so afraid you might get 
frozen in he can't sleep nights. It 's worryin' him almost 

to death. What are you writin', Mrs. H ? You 're alius 

writin', no matter how early I comes in the morning nor how 
late at night, you 're as busy as a cat with two tails. 
What 's them things ? Anchovies ? ' Oh, I see, said the 
blind man ' ; and do you know that fellow could n't see at all, 
that blind man, and just the same I can't see what 's anchov- 
ies — never heard o' such things before in all my life. You 



Business Propositions 3 l 3 

still too busy to talk, Mrs. H ? I believe it 's jest as 

Isaacs sez, — you 're haughty. Why should you have such 

haughty ways about you ? Now Miss V , she 's always 

ready to talk to a fellow, and she 's so nice to me that it 
almost emboldens me to ask her to be my wife. I say, can't 

you git Miss V to have me ? Has she had many other 

offers durin' this trip with you ? Hard to count ? Bet your 
life I kin count 'em if you '11 jest tell me where you ' ve been. 
One in Colorado Springs," repeated John, as he told it off 
on his thumb. " Two in Denver," marking off forefinger 
and another; " two at Coronado," and down went the fingers 
of one hand ; " one at Los Angeles," and the second hand 
was brought into requisition. " One at San Diego, five in 
San Francisco." Here Jones suddenly bent double and put 
his hand on the toe of his boot, calling out, " Hold on a bit, 
I ain't got fingers enough ; they 've run out ; got to start in 
on my toes. Well, it 's no use ; if she would n't have any 
o' them dudes, she ain't got no use for John." 

A little later Von M , K , and W arrived. 

The former was in a high state of indignation as he held out 
the retort belonging to the animatoscope and showed it with 
two big holes. " The most outrageous thing that ever hap- 
pened ! Just see how they have ' done you.' We had the 
animatoscope in perfect condition and were just ready to 
open the doors and take in hundreds of dollars, for every 
one in town is wild to see the war scenes and the Corbett 
fight. Crowds were asking when we should open up. We 
were trying it for the last time, when we suddenly discovered 
that the gas was leaking frightfully, and, upon examination, 
we saw the rottenness of this retort. A slight pressure of 
the hand and you could put your thumb right through it." 
The others were equally indignant that we should have been 
allowed to come this distance with such an article, and said, 
" That 's just it. You were women, and they knew you 
were coming to the Klondike, from which you might never 
return, and so they did n't care. I hope you will write them 
up and fully advertise them for doing so dishonourable a 
thing." — " However, let 's say nothing more about it to- 



3 H Two Women in the Klondike 

night," said Von M ; " for I 'm too angry at the thought 

that you should have been treated in this way, and also at 
the immense loss we shall suffer, if we cannot get another 
retort." 

W proceeded to divert our minds by showing us a 

magnificent piece of quartz. He had been out with an ex- 
perienced miner who thought he had discovered the mother 
lode, and had staked off the portion which the law allowed. 
His experience in getting there is worthy of note. Another 
miner had made the same discovery; it was a race for life, as 
it were. Both couples dashed down the bank to the river. 

The first there took W 's canoe, and there was no other 

to be had. For a moment at a loss, a brilliant idea occurred 
to the two left behind ; they took a short cut across town to 
the barracks, entered police headquarters, and made a charge 
against the two men of having stolen their canoe. Two of 
the mounted police were immediately detailed to go to the 
banks of the Klondike, and, as the culprits rounded the bank 
from the Yukon and stopped for a third member of the party, 
they were immediately captured, lodged in jail, and the boat 
turned over to our friend and his miner. They reached the 
promised land, staked off the earth containing the treasures, 
and hurried back to release the so-called thieves, who took 
the affair as a huge joke, laughing that the others had suc- 
ceeded where they had failed. W promised to let us 

know where to stake, as soon as the ground should be sur- 
veyed, and we decided to be prepared for a long tramp on 
the road to millions at a moment's notice. We had a little 
chat about friends in common in New York. " One thing 

I found there," said W , " is that many New Yorkers 

are more English than we are ourselves. I went to spend 
an evening with a young lady at her request, and had been 
getting on beautifully, when she suddenly told me, apropos 
of nothing, that she thought we Knglish only came to this 
country to laugh at and make fun of Americans. As I had 
never dreamed of doing such a thing, she frightened me so 
that I left and never went back again. ' ' 



Business Propositions 315 

Monday, September 5th. 

Jones came early in the morning to help get breakfast. 
" Well, ladies, you've got plenty o' wood yet, I suppose? 
What, no wood ! I suppose some o' them dudes came last 
night after I left. If I 'd 'a' known they wuz a-comin', 
you 'd 'a' got no wood. When I left, you folks wuz a-goin' to 
bed. What do I care about them dudes ? Think I 'm 
a-goin' to make a fire to warm them up, nor the likes of 'em ? 
Why did n't you send them out for to get wood and not let 
'em be a-usin' of John's after he took all that trouble for to 
get it for yer ? " I had had a talk with George, who had just 
discharged five of the least useful of his labourers, and 
had engaged one of them to go back in the woods and chop 
for us ; so in the midst of John's harangue he entered, bring- 
ing us enough fuel to last at least a week. John stopped 
and gazed in astonishment, looking very foolish. Finally 
he said, " Well, I never ! And you 've been hirin' a man at 
seventy-five cents an hour to do this, an' John a-sittin' here. 
Well, I '11 never talk no more." 

We were here interrupted by the contractor for the lumber 
for roof and floor. Two hundred and ninety-eight dollars 
was the lowest price for it, although the house itself was to 
have cost, all finished, less than that. It had to be done, 
however, and the order was given. Next came the man who 
had made a verbal promise to bring all the heavy logs from 
the river to the building site for eighty-five dollars. This 
sum was handed him. " And where is the pay for my first 
day— thirty-three dollars for my first day's work ? " ' ' Your 
contract was for the entire thing." " Indeed it was n't ; 
it had nothing to do with the first day's work." His com- 
panion stoutly agreed with him, and after much discussion, 
finding that they were determined to have the extra thirty- 
three dollars or have the law, I was obliged to give way and 
be swindled out of it, rather than have further trouble. 
Another effect of " big tent! " 

While we were at breakfast, the invalid's partner came in, 
saying, " He 's almost gone, and he sent me to thank you 
ladies for all your kindness." " What can we do for him ? 



316 Two Women in the Klondike 

We ' ve been so busy for the last few days that we ' ve sarccely 
had time to be of assistance." " Oh, but he 's grateful and 
your air-pillow was such a comfort to him and made his poor 
head so easy. There 's nothing can be done now, unless 
you might have a little brandy to keep him on a bit longer.' 
The stimulant was given instantly. " It 's very dear here, 
and I would n't like to take it without paying for it, you 've 
given him so much already." " Don't mention it ; he 's 
more than welcome to all that we have. Shall we go to 
him ? " " No, he 's kind o' flighty-like ; all night long he 

would n't let nobody do for him but me. Dr. M stayed 

all night and would n't take a penny, but whatever he tried 
to fix for him, he 'd say, ' Let Jerry do it ; Jerry knows what 
I like, ' ' ' and here the poor fellow broke down as he thought 
of his comrade's approaching end. 

We had many appointments in town, but could not bear 
the thought of leaving at such an hour. Jones went to help 
all he could. While he was gone a man entered, saying, 
" Good-morning, ladies, I hope you have n't forgotten me." 

As he bowed, smiled, and extended his hand, K thought 

we might have met him " on the outside," so spoke of the 
long trip from San Francisco. I reflected that he might 

have been one of those introduced by A on the trail, so 

discussed that. He finally began with the usual formula : 
1 ' I have a little proposition to make to you, ladies. Hearing 
that you were very wealthy, it seemed to me you might like 
to go into a big thing. You see, I am one of the owners of a 
river boat. Our captain has decamped with all the funds 
and we 're out about twenty-five thousand dollars. Well, 
we 've concluded to give you ladies a big interest in our 
steamer for five thousand dollars cash, and you '11 probably 
get it back several times over in freight and passengers be- 
fore the end of the season." — " You 've come at a bad time, 
for we 've grub-staked so many men that we are wondering 
whether we shall have enough money to ' get out.' " Some 
time passed before our benevolent friend could realise such 
an incredible story and take his departure. " Did you ever 
hear such gall ! ' ' exclaimed W . ' ' The idea of a fellow's 



Business Propositions 317 

having the nerve to try and inveigle two women to put five 
thousand dollars in a tiny boat like that just at the end of 
the season, when she 's likely to get shut in the ice before 
she can make another trip. It 's lucky you have us to pro- 
tect you," said the dear boy. " What would you do without 
your staff ? ' ' 

John rowed us over to town, E promising to go the 

following day, if I would only attend to the business once 

more. W and Ivan accompanied me to the O 

Sisters', where we found Von M in despair. " It simply 

means a fortune lost," he said ; " not a soul in town can 
make a retort for love or money. It was a despicable act 
for your merchant to have started you off with such a thing 
as this, and you really ought either to bring a big suit against 
him or show him up so that no one will ever trust him again. 
Such a small saving to him means such enormous loss 

to us. ' ' There was nothing further to be done, so W 

and Dr. C accompanied me to the storehouse to get out 

the acetylene light plant. It was soon found, and in fine 
condition, except that one leg was off, and that the agent 
had omitted to put the instructions in the box as promised ; 
but the calcium carbide with which to run it did not turn up 
after a search through over twenty of the boxes. 

Then came C , to look over our lists and the prices we 

had placed upon them. He begged us to turn over the entire 
cargo to him, allow him to advertise and exhibit it for a day 
or more, and in case he did not sell we should be at no ex- 
pense ; otherwise he was to receive ten per cent, of all re- 
ceipts. Mr. D and Mr. R came for the goods we 

had promised to let them have, but when they saw that it 
would be necessary to take a few things out of each box and 
then close them again they promised to wait. 

Next stopped at the office of the Ora, to arrange about 
passage. They promised to reserve the only cabin on board 
holding two bunks ; no mattress, no bed-linen, blankets, or 
furniture of any kind. It will be necessary to carry even 
our pillows with us. Price, one hundred and twenty dollars 
to I^ake Bennett, and no food supplied. Meals, two dollars 



318 Two Women in the Klondike 

each. Steamer to sail on the fourteenth. ' ' Can she surely 
make it as late as that, and not be shut in the ice?" I 
queried anxiously. "We think so," replied the agent. 

" Oh yes ! Mrs. H ," said a man, raising his hat. " I 

went out early in October last year and there was only a thin 
sheet of ice through which we cut our way without diffi- 
culty." — " But it is much colder this year everyone tells me, 
and the winter will begin earlier." — " So they say, but 
there 's not much doubt of your being able to make it. 
Don't you worry. Take all the blankets you can carry, 
though, and the warmest of wraps. You can sell them all 
at Bennett, and for better prices than here, as you won't 
want them after you reach civilisation again." 

After opening a box from which B had requested 

me to bring some packages, we went back to the usual 

rendezvous, where I was soon joined by S and D . 

I had previously been in the office to inquire the cost of 
freight, as we wished to send our boxes with personal effects 

out. No one knew. In telling S of it, I said, " I told 

them it ought to be much cheaper going down the river, as- 
you have so little to send." " Very kind of you to give 
them suggestions and ideas," laughed he ; " it 's not every- 
one who is so good. I '11 see about it, but you know that 
coming in it was excess luggage; now it 's freight." I was 

next stopped by Mrs. H and Mrs. K . The latter 

had thrown up her job at Circle and had come to try her luck 
in Dawson. 

At last my good boatman Jones appeared, and glad I was 

to return once more to the quiet of West Dawson. E 

had a nice hot dinner all ready and promised to attend to the 
business the following day. In the midst of dinner the in- 
valid's partner arrived, saying, " It 's all over. Mr. Jones 
has been in and washed him and done everything that could 
be done for him, an' I 've brought you back your pillow an' 
your chair, which he enjoyed so much ; seems like they 
made him more comfortable than anything else," and his 
lip quivered. We saw that he was about to break down 
completely, so made him join us, insisted upon his taking 



Business Propositions 3 X 9 

food, and tried to divert his mind, but it was all in vain. 
" His wife 's the nicest woman that ever walked the face of 
the earth, and here 's his little girl, — she 's only ten years old, 
but there ain't a finer elocutionist in all Kansas." Here he 
opened a watch and showed us the picture of the fatherless 
child. " I want you to take care of this watch and chain," 
said he, handing them to me; " there ain't no one I 'd rather 
trust than you two ladies, and if I don't go out, I want you 
to take these trinkets to her. It 's goin' to be a terrible 
blow, coz last time he wrote he wuz in ez good health as any 
of us. I can't write. I 've hed many a partner in the past 
fifteen years but no one I thought so much of as him, an' in 
his mind there warn't no one like Jerry, an' all during his 
sickness he was the most uncomplainin' man you ever did see. 
I 've been over to try and get him a coffin an' there was n't 
one to be had for less than seventy dollars, an' that the most 
ordinary, common wood. At last, ez I wuz feelin' pretty dis- 
couraged, I met a fellow as wuz on the trail with us, an' when 

he heard the coffin was for poor , sez he, ' You can take 

it for forty dollars, and that 's just what it cost me,' an' it 

ain't got no handles neither." " I just been up with J 

for to find a place where to bury him," said Jones; " we had 
to choose the new cemetery coz his is the first grave we 've 
ever had on this side of the river." " Where can we have 
the service?" said the bereaved partner, looking around 
the big tent. " You might have this in a moment, " we re- 
sponded in answer to his glance, " but, as you see, the cabin 
is rapidly going up in front of our doorway and the stove is 
before the other entrance, so that there 's no possible place 
of exit for an occasion of this kind." " You 'd better have 
it right in his own tent," said Jones ; " the parson can stay 
inside with him, and we can all remain outside," and thus it 
was arranged. 

The poor fellow then talked of sitting up all night with 
the remains of his friend, but he was in no condition to do so, 
and good Jones promised to do it himself or to secure some- 
one else. His grief was great, and we tried to console him 
with the thought of the devotion he had shown in tender 



320 Two Women in the Klondike 

care and nursing. " Yes," said he. " I 've done every- 
thing. I stopped work and run myself in debt to get him 
what he needed, and only last week, when someone offered 
me seven thousand dollars to go out and stake a claim on 
Dominion, I wuz a-goin' coz you ladies said you would take 
care o' him, but my heart failed me at the last moment, and 
I sez, ' No, I '11 lose the seven thousand dollars rather than 
desert him, ' an' I with only ten dollars left an' no grub. I 
wuz feelin' pretty down about it, but I never let on to him, 
and I thank the Lord now for it. He only had a little while 
when he could talk to me before he went, but he sez, ' I ain't 
a-goin' to tell you what to do, coz I know you '11 do what 's 
right," and here the poor fellow gave way again. " I want 
to thank you, Mr. Jones, for washin' him an' bein' so good 
to him, an' if you 'd only cut a little lock of his hair for his 
wife. I can't do it. She expectin' him back hale and hearty 
as when he went away, and waiting for a letter, an' he under 
the ground when she gets it." 

Here Von M , D , and J came in from a miners' 

meeting ; a committee had been appointed to cut away all 
brush and dead wood within two feet of the spring, and the 
miners had decided to carry out the law themselves and 
wreak summary vengeance on the first one caught sullying 

its waters in any way. Von M was the last to leave, 

discouraged and disheartened that so small a thing as a 
" rotten retort should cause shipwreck to what would other- 
wise have been known in Dawson as ' the best show on 
earth.' " 

Tuesday, September 6th. 

George and his assistants came at seven, but were greatly 
hampered as there were no twenty and forty nails to be had 
in Dawson ; the men who had spent yesterday going to 
Klondike City for our roofing and flooring had returned 
without it and had another trip to make. Jones said there 
was half a keg of nails in " Louse-town " (" excuse me," 
he said, catching my glance, " I mean the town with the 

beautiful name"). After breakfast he took E , with her 

long list of commissions, across the river, and the duty (which 



Business Propositions 321 

I detest) of washing dishes and " eleaning-up " devolved 
upon me. But even at seventy-five cents an hour there was 
no one to be had, as all were engaged on the house. A yel- 
low cur, that now comes daily in search of food, has taken 
the habit of rolling up in our best blankets with his muddy 
feet. And no amount of shouting and chasing will drive him 
out ; he has to be actually beaten before he will move ; so on 
seeing him stealthily making himself comfortable for the 
thousandth time, I caught up the largest stick to be found 
and rushed towards him, only to slip on the wet ground and 
find myself seated in slime and muck. Could "Jinks " have 
been reached then, his punishment would have been severe ; 
as it was, he had made tracks before the stick neared him, 
•evidently having fully realised the situation. George entered 
with a man to be paid off. " Why are you being discharged? " 
said I. " He 's not feeling well, and the doctor says if he 
•don't lay off at once he may follow the poor boy who 's just 
died." So our man got his money and many instructions as 
to the care he must take of himself. 

One o'clock came, and I went to see if anything could be 
done for the departed neighbour before he should be laid 
away. Not a flower of any kind to be had. A little before 
two the clergyman arrived, but was told that the men had 
dug twice and, although high upon the hillside, had been 
unable to get below four feet, as they strike ice. He went to 
see about it. Then the friends began to assemble. ' ' I liked 

to 'a' dropped dead when they told me C had ' gone,' " 

said D . " I did n't even know he was sick. Why, he 

mighter come over to my cabin and stayed." " Oh, he 
liked this side best," said his partner. " He did n't want 
ter live in Dawson, and so I did n' t want ter bury him there. ' ' 
" That 's right ; where a man chooses his place^ that 's where 

lie 'd oughter be buried," said D . " Whose is this big 

house going up ? " he inquired, turning to me. " What 's it 
for? "— " Residence." — " Costs a good lot o' money to put 
up a house like that. About the same as a brick and brown- 
stone to home. Whose tent is that ? What do you use it 
for? Well, it 's a mighty fine, well-made one, an' I know 



322 Two Women in the Klondike 

something about them ; been in that business myself. Gom* 
to stay ' in ' this winter ? Oh, it ain't so cold here ; 't ain't 
half so bad as Dakota and Iowa. No wind, and so you don't 
feel the cold. Why, my wife goes out sometimes in winter 
with only a little fascinator on. She gained twenty-five or 
fifty pounds, but she lost it again this summer. Well, sir, 
when I came in here last year there was n't a tent on this 
side, and not many in Dawson, and now just look at it ; 
hardly an inch of ground to spare. You see them hills 
opposite ? Well, the sun never gets over them in winter, so 
we never have more 'n four hours daylight. You ladies 
goin' out over the trail ? Well yon '11 find snow on the 
summit, because it 's snowing now on Kl Dorado and 
Bonanza hills." 

Just then the clergyman returned, saying it would take 
another hour to dig the grave. " I wonder who we can 
get to put him in his coffin," said his partner, the tears 
rolling down his cheeks. " We '11 help you," said 

D . "John and I '11 do it." The hour passed, and a 

dozen of us stood in solemn silence before the door of the 
cabin in which the remains had been laid. A sled was 
brought out and on it was placed the coffin neatly covered 
with black cloth. Two ladies offered wild flowers which 
they had gathered on the hills, miles from Dawson. The 
grave-diggers returned and joined the throng of mourners, 
as did my dozen workmen, whom I had told to stop work for 
the service. As we gathered around the box and sang, 
Jesus, lover of my soul, our voices faltered as we thought, 
of the poor fellow who had left home, wife, and child, buoyed 
up with the hope of returning to provide them with comfort 
and luxury ; of his weary tramp over the trail ; of trials, 
vexations, and disappointments as illness came on, and funds 
became low, until the last days when he called for his loved 
ones who were far away. The service was most impressive, 
the silence broken by the sobs of the bereaved partner, and 
all eyes were filled with tears of sympathy. The ceremony 
ended by the broken voices taking up the strain, Shall we 
meet beyond the River. Heads were bowed for a blessing. 



Business Propositions 



323 



and then the pall-bearers took up their precious burden and 
carried it to its last resting-place in the lonely grave on the 
hillside. 

A short visit from J , and then E returned and 

was greatly surprised to find that I, the lazy one, had washed 
all the dishes and laid the table for dinner with clean table- 
cloths (newspapers). Her trusty boatman, Jones, followed 



. 




THE LOCK OF HAIR FOR THE WIDOW. 



with a box of groceries, which he almost dropped as he 
caught sight of the table, saying, " Well, well, well ! who 
ever would 'a' thought them little fins o' hern could 'a' 
done all that. I bet she did n't like it a bit, now, did yer, 

little one, — honour bright ? " — " No ; and Miss V is the 

only one for whom I would have done it ; but I could n't 
bear to think of her returning after a tiresome day and find- 
But before I forget it let me ask, 



ing things in confusion. 



324 Two Women in the Klondike 

Did you cut a lock of that poor fellow's hair before you left ? 
for his partner is waiting to send it in a letter to his wife." 
Jones dropped. " Well, now, if that ain't awful ! I clean 
forgot ! Just to think o' the likes o' that ! Oh ! I know " ; 
and before we could divine what he intended to do he had 
seized the scissors and cut off one of his own curly locks. 
" She '11 never know the difference, " said he ; " me and him 
had hair about the same colour, and if it ain't just the same, 
she '11 think it changed up here, or after death." Horri- 
fied, K and I protested, but in vain. Jones was some- 
times obstinate, and this was one of the occasions. The 
partner came in and received the precious treasure, while 
our lips were sealed. " What must I pay the grave- 
diggers ? " said he. " Oh, not much," Jones replied ; " an' 
as for me, many 's the corpse I 've washed and dressed, an' 
never asked nothin' for such services yet, an' don't intend to 
begin now." " Wa'al, then, I '11 tell you where to go and 
get the best claim in this country, bein' as how you 're so 
kind, an' as for the other men, I 'm willing to pay as long 
as ever there 's a cent left." 

After dinner B related her experiences of the day. 

M R had selected over a hundred dollars' worth of 

goods from our boxes of groceries, D had done the same, 

also G , giving her checks which covered the entire 

amount we had paid for said articles in San Francisco, and 
leaving us still two-thirds of the stock. " What a pity we 

never thought to bring in brooms," said K . "They 

are selling at seventeen dollars apiece in Dawson, the com- 
monest kind, and very few to be had." She had disposed 
of a tin of evaporated tomatoes for seventeen dollars, when 

D saw it and said, " You must let me have that. I 've 

sent orders for them all over the country and never have had 
one filled since coming here. It makes my mouth water just 
to think of them. I '11 take it right now and carry it home. ' ' 

"Can't do it," replied K ; " it 's sold." "Doesn't 

matter. You can say it was stolen," and off he walked with 
it, before her very eyes, calling back, " This stuff is too de- 
licious to give up. I 've been longing for it for ages." 



Business Propositions 3 2 5 

Listen to his punishment ! That very evening, as he pre- 
pared his first dish, he found the tomatoes full of tiny white 
worms, and rushed into the " big tent," exclaiming, " Well, 
if you ought n't to give Goldberg and Bowen a piece of your 
mind ! To think that you should be ' done ' even by a firm 
like that." [Let me state here, however, that on our return 
to San Francisco, this same firm returned, not only the 
price we had paid for the tomatoes, but also the freight 
to Dawson.] 

Wednesday, September 7th. 
Hardly were we dressed when two men arrived, announc- 
ing themselves as grocers from Dawson who were just about 
to start in business. They wanted to purchase our entire 
stock of winter's supplies in that line, but finally asked if we 
would be willing to accept one hundred dollars down, and 
let them sell the remainder for ten per cent, commission. 

E promised to give them an answer after a day in town. 

Examining our lists carefully they offered cash for the entire 
lot of stationery. Next came the dead man's partner, saying 
that one of his friends was going home, and had offered to 
take the watch to the widow, whose address he gave, beg- 
ging me to add my letter to his. Jones soon came to row 

E across to town, leaving me to housework and journal, 

from which I have only been interrupted by visits from Dr. 

C and Von M , who had expected to show the 

animatoscope to-morrow. A new retort having been made 
at an enormous cost, they found a flaw in it, which necessi- 
tated the making of still another. How we all groaned over 
the cruelty of the man who had sent us the outfit in such a 
condition! And now the house is ready for the roof, but the 
lumber for which we contracted has not yet materialised, 
although this is the third day our men have been told that 
it was ready and have gone in search of it only to be disap- 
pointed. A tremendous gale is blowing, shaking the tent to 
such a degree that its collapse or inflation seems imminent. 
The builders have come to tighten all the ropes. We are 
grateful for the sunshine and a temperature of seventy de- 



326 Two Women in the Klondike 

grees, which allows the fire to be extinguished, as the stove- 
pipe was long ago blown off. 

Neighbour E paid us quite a visit, fearing we might 

be alarmed at the gale, and ready to be of any assistance. 
His partner is attending to their claims on the American side, 
and their hopes are high in regard to the future, but that is 
no exception to the general rule of " boys " in this part of 
the world. It was nearly seven when E returned, Colo- 
nel Q bringing her packages for her. She was radiant. 

' ' Oh, my dear, I ' ve had a splendid day ; sold over a thousand 

dollars' worth, so that M complimented me highly, and 

begged me to go into partnership with him, he to supply the 
money, I to do the ' talkee-talkee.' I told him that I cer- 
tainly had missed my vocation." 

After dinner Von M and Jones spent the evening. 

" How about the retort ? " we asked. " Oh, I 'd give that 
man of yours the ' retort courteous ' if ever I were to see 
him in California," said he ; " I 'm having another one 
made with silver solder and the expense is going to be some- 
thing enormous. If you don't do something to that man 
you deserve to be cheated in the same way for the remainder 
of your life. Just think of the daily loss ; for everyone I 
meet asks when the show is coming off, and they 're all wild 
to see the naval heroes, warships, etc." Indignation and 
sorrow ran riot, but there was nothing to be done except 
possess our souls in patience, and remember, too late, Judge 

B 's advice to us to see each box packed and put on 

board the steamer. 



CHAPTER XXV 



A NKW EXPERIENCE 



Thursday, September 8th. 

THANK the Lord for a warm day and sunshine. It takes 
a little from the dampness which strikes a chill to the 
marrow. Jones took E : to town with Ivan, while I re- 
mained to fill a trunk with all the finery I had brought, ex- 
pecting to dress daily for dinner ; but life in the tent makes 
such garb an impossibility, and silken hose are not exactly 
appropriate in rubber boots or muck-a-lucks, which we now 
take off only at bed-time. Nothing but heavy flannel, such 
as one rarely wears at home, is comfortable. A skirt is de- 
cidedly in the way in gathering wood for the stove, washing 

dishes, cooking, etc. B has tried it on several occasions 

and has succeeded in burning three of them, consequently 
we put them on now only when we are on our way to town. 
So, as our merchants told us that they had many calls for 
finery and that it would pay us much better to leave all such 
articles here to be sold by them, asking ten per cent, com- 
mission, we gladly decided to rid ourselves of all that we 
do not need, and thus save fifteen cents a pound freight. 
Not until 6 p.m. was the list finished, the articles marked 
and packed, and the little eight-dollar steamer-trunk labelled 
twenty-five dollars. 

About two o'clock, as I saw how much there remained to 
be done, and looked at the kitchen with its unclean pots, 
pans, and kettles, I called George and asked him to find me 
a man to wash dishes and put the place in fine order. The 

327 



328 Two Women in the Klondike 

assistant soon appeared and worked steadily for three hours 
at seventy-five cents an hour, and what a transformation I 
beheld ! Everything shone as cooking utensils do at home, 
new table-cloths (newspapers) were on all the tables, etc. I 
complimented him, adding, " Your three hours will expire 
in five minutes, but come to-morrow and there will still be 
work for you." " Oh, I don't mind working overtime," he 
replied; " it 'most kills me to loaf, I get so lonesome." He 
continued to talk, telling me of a claim he had staked on 
Bonanza, which he weut to the office to record. After hav- 
ing waited in line for ages, he finally reached the desk, but 
to his great disappointment was told to return in two or 
three days, as there was some surveying to be done. He 
waited according to instructions, wasted more time in trying 
to gain entrance to the Recorder's office only to be told 
that the claim had already been recorded by someone else. 
" They say he put one o' his friends on it," said the poor 
fellow, " an' after me a-trampin' way over there to get it ; so 
now I 've got to work for grub and run the same risk again 
when I earn enough to go out on the trail. 'T ain't like 
that on the American side." 

At last E returned, saying, " I have some bad news 

for you ; some of our things are missing, and the man who 
took all the stationery for two hundred and thirty-five dol- 
lars and paid me in gold dust, must have it back, as we 
have n't the things to deliver. Between the cheating of the 
people from whom we bought goods, the spoiling and de- 
tention of our boxes by the steamship companies, and the 
non-responsibility of the warehouse owners, it is enough to 
drive one crazy. I asked the latter about missing boxes and 
he said he could n't tell, as several had called for them. ' But 
you have no right to deliver without an order from Mrs. 

H or from me,' I contended. ' Well, they came and 

took them and said they had your order, so how could I 
help it ? ' The purchasers might have held us responsible 
for the missing articles, but they were awfully nice about it. 
They asked me to go with them to their new store and check 
off as they took the things out of the boxes, and see for my- 




MISS VAN BUREN IN TRAVELLING COSTUME. 



33° Two Women in the Klondike 

self just how they looked and what was missing; so round I 
went, sat in the rear of the shop with my back to the door, 
and checked off as fast as I could write. They were so de- 
lighted with the groceries that they wanted them all, and as 
they placed them on the shelves, the people, seeing luxuries 
such as have never before been brought here, commenced 
crowding in and wanting to buy, and I know they think the 
store belongs to you and me, as the boxes were marked with 
our names. A dear old lady said to me, ' Have you any 
sewing-silk ? ' so I just said in my sweetest tones, ' Oh ! I 'm 
awfully sorry, but we haven't opened the box containing 
it yet. Could n't you wait till to-morrow ? ' and she 
said, ' Certainly, dear.' As she went out, our grocer said 
to me, ' You 'd make a fortune for yourselves and for us if 
you 'd only go into partnership with us ; we could n't have 
made that old lady wait — she 'd have gone somewhere else.' 
" Those jars of orange marmalade that we bought at 
Goldberg's, three for sixty-seven cents, I had put aside to 
bring home, as we have none and that is all there is in town; 
well, a man came in and saw them and exclaimed, ' Orange 
marmalade ! how fine ! how much is it ? ' I said one dollar 
and fifty cents, and would you believe it, he took it instantly ! 
Oh, it 's such a lark ! I never had so much fun in all my 
life ; how I do wish that we could open a shop of our own. 
Won't you ? I '11 do it in a minute if you will, and we '11 
not only make our everlasting fortunes, but we '11 have great 
fun besides ! " " You 'd just oughter 'a' seen her," said 
Jones, gazing at her admiringly ; " I '11 be durned if every- 
one in town did n't want to come and buy of her just for the 
honour of speaking to her. Why, she 'd sell everything 
you 've brought up here inside of a week, an' me a-sittin' 
there and a-lookin' at her, like to bust at the way she did 
give it to them folks, a-talkin' so nice like they 'd never been 
talked to before, an' the likes o' that. I tell you, you ain't 
in it no more ! If I did n't feel proud, you kin never believe 
me again. Hulloa ! who 's washed all them dishes, and 
shined up the pots and kettles so, and changed all the news- 
papers and done everything so fine ? Why, you do know how 



A New Experience 33 1 

to do something, after all, and me a-thinkin' you did n't. 
Well, if you ain't the two smartest women I ever seen, an' 
me a-thinkin' city folks did n't know nawthin', an' the likes 
o' that. I never would have believed them little fins o' 
yourn could 'a' done so much work. I was only proud of 
Miss V , but now I 'm proud o' you both." 

" I can't sail under false colours, John, my boy. That 
sort of work disgusts me beyond measure, and as long as I 
have a sou to my name, someone else does it for me." John 
cast a contemptuous look at me, and said, " Well, I suppose 
you 're good for writin', but I never did see no good in the 
likes o' that. But I tell you she fascinates 'em when she be- 
gins to talk, an' everyone wants to give her an order." 

" You should have seen how everyone admired Ivan," said 

E . " He is really the best-trained dog I have ever 

known — was not a bit of trouble, — followed me every- 
where, and I should not have known he was there, so un- 
obtrusive was he." " Well, he ett with me," chimed in Jones. 

" Miss V she wouldn't, and so I said, ' Ivan, you want 

to go to the restaurant ? ' an' he never so much as looked at 
Miss V to say by your leave. He knowed that restau- 
rant and how everybody stuffs and feeds him there, and he 
just made one dash for it, an' you never seen the likes o' it 
in all your life." 

Von M spent the evening. He was in good spirits, 

and so sure of the great coming success of the animatoscope 
that on the strength of the first week's expected receipts he 
begged us to save him at least one hundred dollars' worth of 
groceries. 

Friday, September 9th. 

Seven o'clock and all the workmen on hand still waiting 
for the lumber which was promised so many days ago. With 
that in our possession the roof and floor could be finished in 
one day, and we ready to move in the morrow, and how we 
long to leave this wet ground and get out of our rubber boots. 
Patience! patience! patience! as the clergyman said the last 
time he preached under this canvas. It is more required in 
this country than any other quality. Jones came at 9.30 to 



33 2 Two Women in the Klondike 

take K to Dawson, as she is such a wonderfully clever 

business woman and enjoys it so greatly that it seems better 
for both that affairs should remain in her hands. My assist- 
ant of yesterday returned, and was sent off to chop wood, 
which makes that fuel more expensive, although taken from 
the trees back of the house, than at home. When we first 
arrived, we could easily have cut a sufficient number of trees 
close at hand to have built a cabin in a short space of time. 
During this one month, one-roomed cabins have been going 
up about us so rapidly, in order that the "boys" may 
get out of their tents before frost, that it is now necessary to 
tramp at least a mile and a half for fuel. 

At 4 p.m. as I was still going over accounts, Von M 

appeared in utter despair. " The man who sold you that 
animatoscope outfit ought really to be killed," said he. 
" After great expense and endless trials we have succeeded 
in getting a retort made that will do. Then I filled the bags 
with gas, but in one hour it had all gone, and I found, not 
only that the bags were leaking, but also that they had 
already been mended in several places, and if we use them 
we are liable to have an explosion. I can't imagine a man 
low enough to send two women this distance with such a 
rotten lot of stuff. Merchants seem to think that when they 
outfit you for the Klondike they can put upon you all the 
stuff that no one else will take and that they never will hear 
from you again. I hope you won't lose patience, for I 'm 
working at the thing night and day, hoping my best to bring 
it out. A lot of my friends who were wild to see it and also 
to chaff me for running a show have all gone ' out. ' That 
alone means hundreds of dollars, and the amount we are 
losing daily from men who would gladly pay a dollar or 
more to see the Corbett fight, is incalculable. I 'm doing 
my very best, but as soon as we get one part straight an- 
other gives out." " Patience ! you are the one who is show- 
ing that quality beyond all others," said I ; "for you are 
devoting your entire time and attention to it, simply in the 
hope of what may come." — " Oh, that 's all right. When 
I undertake a thing I 'in determined to make a success of 



A New Experience 333 

it, but we 've been labouring under great disadvantages up 
to the present. I 've searched the town, but of course there 's 
no such thing as a gas-bag to be had. There 's an old tank 
which a man is not using, on which we might put a gauge, 
but he asks fifty or a hundred dollars for it, because it 's the 
only one in town, and the moment he finds that it is indis- 
pensable for our show there is no knowing to what price it 
might go. However, I '11 get some luncheon and go back 
to town and see what can be done." So off the poor fellow 
went to continue his hard work against obstacles which 
should never have arisen. 

At 6.30 E returned, the faithful Jones carrying meat 

and provisions. " How 's the house gettin' on ? " said John. 
' You don't know ! Been a-writin' all day as usual, I sup- 
pose, but by Jove, everything does look nice and clean, and 
no mistake, though of course 3'ou did n't do it yourself." 
We went out to see George, who pointed out with great pride 
the solidity and substantial character of his work. " It 's 
all arranged so 's you can put another story on next year, 
if you want to, and here are some poles for the awning over 
your balcony." From the doorway a most glorious view 
was obtained of Dawson, the hills, and the full sweep of the 
Yukon River — a view from a second story would mean 
something not to be surpassed in Switzerland. The re- 
semblance to Lucerne is great. K , Von M , and 

Jones spent the evening. The latter found that the re- 
flections cast upon the tent by the lantern were so large that 
it made our shadows appear in gigantic proportions, so he 
posed in the most absurdly grotesque ways, in order that 
any neighbours who happened to be looking on might have 
a free magic-lantern show. 

E was filled with enthusiasm over her business trans- 
actions of the day. " Do you remember that dollar and a 
half mirror for which you were offered ten ? Well, to-day 
a man said he must have it and that he would give a dollar 
more, but I said there was none in our cabin on board the 
steamer, and that we must take it ' out ' with us." " Oh, 
well," said I, "to have the satisfaction of making such an 



334 Two Women in the Klondike 

enormous percentage, let 's sell it and use those in our toilet- 
bags." " All right, we '11 offer it for twelve to-morrow. 

One thing is most annoying, ' ' continued E ; ' ' when I 

looked in the chemist's box to get out your ' grippe cure,' 
there was not one there, and more than a hundred different 
articles on the list were missing. We had a most thorough 
search, but there was not a sign of them, so we lost the sale 
to the chemist, who offered three times what we had paid." 
— " Could the box have been opened on the steamer ? " — 
" Hardly; it was so well packed and so tightly nailed up 
that it seemed as though just from the shop. 

" What do you think a man told me to-day ? He made 
me swear not to give his name, but said that he had heard 
that the customs officials, thinking we were very wealthy, 
had ( salted ' us well in payment of duties in order to make 
up for those who had come through with ' permits.' They 
also said that we had brought some things in without declar- 
ing them and that they were coming over to search the tent 
and seize them. That 's what one gets for being honest. 
" We gave them our exact bills, just as they were sent to, 
and paid for by, us; even second-hand articles we paid for, 
although we have been chaffed by many for not having bills 
' cooked ' and sending in duplicates as they did." " Oh, 
you can't blame them," said a listener. " They 're not here 
for their health ; they 're in a hurry to make a fortune and 
' get out,' and the more they hear of the wealth of you two 
ladies, the more they kick themselves for not having asked 
you a hundred per cent." " I must go over to Dawson 

again to-night," said Von M , " and find L . I 've 

inquired everywhere for him without success, and finally 
pasted up notices in the prominent places, hoping to attract 
his attention and have him look me up. ' ' 

Saturday, September ioth. 
Up at 6.30, and thankful for mercury at fifty degrees in- 
stead of forty. At 9.30, as the trusty Jones had not made 
his appearance, we sent George for him, who found him 
soundly sleeping ; half an hour later he rowed E to 



A New Experience 335 

town. Was busily writing, when George interrupted me. 
" Excuse me, but there 's another man to be paid off, name 

C , four days at eight dollars per day." " How does it 

happen that you are getting more than the others ? " I in- 
quired. " Oh, I 've been carpentering; that 's worth more." 
— " Are you a regular carpenter ? " He blushed and said, 
" I 'm a professional man at home, but here I 'm doing what 
I can get for a living," and glancing at him I saw how far 
above the average was the face of the fellow dressed in over- 
alls. Returned to my writing, and presently heard two men 
making the circuit of the tent, finally saying, " Where the 
dickens can the entrance be ? " I raised the flap and they 
handed me a bill for lumber. I then proceeded to deluge 
them with questions as to the cause of the detention, and 
the reason why their contract had been broken. It was the 
noon hour, so I had to go in search of George, who was at 
dinner, and turn the men with the lumber over to him. 
"I 've half taken their heads off, George," said I ; ''so 
leave you to complete the task." " Why, you don't mean 
to say that lumber 's here already ? " called out one of the 
workmen ; " well, you must have hustled." The other men 
joined in and chaffed them so unmercifully that it is a wonder 
they did not cut the rope and let the raft float down the 
Yukon. 

Four o'clock, and E came in, looking ready to drop. 

" It 's all off, all off," said she ; " we 've everything back 
on our hands again." I was alarmed and perplexed, and, 
fearing that something dreadful had occurred, questioned 
her anxiously concerning the result of her interview with the 
merchants. " Oh, I 've had the most awful two hours of my 

life. Now that the grocers, M and S , have all our 

boxes there and all our things displayed, instead of giving 
us a thousand dollars down and good security, they want 
to send us out of the country without a penny ; said they 
would be willing to sell on commission for us, but would n't 
put down a sou. They know we are leaving on Wednesday, 
that we have not the time to do all our own packing, collect 
our goods (which make a fine show on their shelves) from 



33 6 Two Women in the Klondike 

them, and transfer them to someone else ; they have heard 
we are building a house which is to cost several times more 
than we were led to believe ; that we have grub staked men 
liberally, and spent so much ready cash that they think they 
have us in a tight place and are taking advantage of it. 

M said, 'I will not give you one penny down and no 

security of any kind, and would rather you would take your 
goods away.' " 

" That was because she intimated that she could not trust 
him to render a true accounting," interrupted Jones, "and 
you can't talk to men like that in this part of the world." 

" I beg your pardon, Mr. Jones," said E , in her most 

dignified manner, which completely crushed poor John ; " I 
said it would not be business-like to trust them without 
security, nor would it." The talk continued for some time 
until finally I said, ' ' You are perfectly fine at business, but 
you are tired now and this, naturally, has upset you ; shall I 
see what I can do?" "You can't do a thing with them," 

cried K . " Yes, do go," said John ; " coz she was so 

excited, she would n't let them talk and say what they 
would do. You '11 see they wants to do wot 's right an' the 
likes o' that, only they got hot, and did n't care then what 
they said." — " Here I 've wasted a whole week, and when I 
told M that his partner S had offered me five hun- 
dred dollars down only yesterday, he said he did n't believe 
it. I simply opened the door and said, ' Will you come here 

a moment, Mr. S ? Did you not ask me yesterday if I 

would accept five hundred dollars ? ' 'I did, Miss V ,' he 

replied. M was furious, but could not go back of that; so 

the situation now is five hundred dollars down, which M 

does n't want to give, or selling our goods on commission of 
ten per cent, and no security of any kind. That doesn't 
seem right or business like to me, and I don't see how we 
can safely trust them with our goods." 

" Do come an' see what you can do with 'em, Mrs. H ," 

said John. "I '11 row you across now — I think they '11 come 
round all right when they ' ve cooled down. They 're friends 
o' mine, an' I introduced them to yer so as to do all I could 



A New Experience 337 

to help yer, but if you come back next year I '11 never in- 
troduce a livin' soul, not even if you never has nobody to 
speak to," and Jones looked also, as though he had lost his 
last friend. 

" Don't be discouraged, E ," said I, ready to start ; 

41 I '11 arrange something." 

While crossing the Yukon Jones said he thought that 

3£ had taken offence where none was intended, and hurt 

the amour propre of the two men. In a few moments we had 

reached the store. Jones then said, " Mr. S , I 've 

brought the partner of Miss V , who has come to have a 

fuss with you." "Oh, I hope not," said Mr. S , with a 

sigh. Mr. M asked me into the office, and I asked him 

to lay all the facts before me. In a quiet, dignified manner 
lie explained that as a commission merchant he thought that 
five hundred dollars down was sufficient guarantee of good 
faith, and that his books would be open weekly to the in- 
spection of our agent, to whom he would pay over all moneys ; 
but that, owing to some expression of doubt as to his good 

faith he had request K to remove her goods, preferring 

to fill his shelves with other articles of his own, from which 
he would obtain much more profit than the ten per cent, 
commission. As for security, he could give references from 
reliable persons here and on the outside if we wished, and 
should be glad to keep our goods on these terms if we saw 
fit to accept them. After thoroughly discussing the matter, 
I promised to give a decision the following day, and was 
referred to Colonel K . 

I went to his office, but he was not in. I waited for a 
short talk with the gold weigher, who had been very kind 
to us, and asked his advice. ' ' Commission merchants are not 
supposed to give security, ' ' said he, ' ' particularly in this town 
where money brings ten per cent, a month, and I think their 
offer of five hundred dollars, with a decision to report to your 

agent weekly, a very good one." Colonel K returned, 

greeted me most cordially, and said, "I 'm very glad to 

meet you, Mrs. H , and have long wanted to know you, 

but am the busiest man in Dawson, with never a moment to 



33% 



Two Women in the Klondike 



myself, night or day. What can I do for you? " He lis- 
tened carefully to my case and said, " I think, if you have 

your own agent to collect weekly, that M and S 

might do very well by you, and I '11 be very glad to super- 
intend or do anything in my power." With such advice 
from so responsible a man my mind was relieved, and I went 
down quite content to wait on the platform of the Alaska 




THE ASSAY OFFICE. 



Commercial Company for Jones. Mr. H- 



stopped to ask, 

" Have you disposed of your stationery ? " — " Yes, and for 
exactly the price which you called exorbitant. The parties, 
who purchased for cash, said that our demand was so reason- 
able that it allowed a good margin for profit to them." 
— " And your groceries ? " "I suppose you remember that 
you offered to give two hundred and fifty dollars for the lot, 
out of which your commission was to be deducted ? Well,, 



A New Experience 339 

I 've sold one hundred dollars' worth each, to three different 
individuals, and have between four and five hundred dollars' 
worth remaining ! " said I triumphantly. Here we were 
interrupted by Dr. , who had just returned from a fifty- 
mile tramp on the trail and said he hoped to go out with us 
on the Ora on the fourteenth. 

Good, kind Jones here made his appearance to row me 
back, " Well, did yer fix it ? " said he, as soon as we were 

floating down the Yukon, with Monsieur L, , the brewer, 

as passenger. "I hoped yer would. It don't do no good 
to lay down the law to them people up here ; they won't 

stand it." Von M spent the evening. Said the ani- 

matoscope was working beautifully, except for the leak in 
the bags, which could not be discovered. He had engaged 
a man who thoroughly understood acetylene lights at two 
dollars an hour, and they were to practise at one o'clock the 

following day. 

Sundaj-, September nth. 

Our watches and clock were not wound last night, so ex- 
cited were we over the events of the day ; consequently there 
was no way of telling the time. I had written several pages, 

and K had the breakfast almost ready, when, glancing 

at one of the watches, she exclaimed, " Why, it 's going ! and 
it's only half after four ! Well, if that 's not a good joke on 
us ! I thought it strange that I did not feel hungry, and it 's 
as silent as the grave ; even the dogs are quiet after a hard 
night of barking." Shortly after came the sound of a gong 
from one of the river steamers at Dawson. ' ' That may mean 

anything from six to seven," continued K . " George 

said he was coming to work on the roof of our house to-day 
at seven, if we did not object to his desecrating the Sabbath. 
I told him that under ordinary circumstances we did, but 
now we cannot help ourselves if we wish to put our house- 
hold effects under cover. He has not arrived yet." " I 

forgot to tell you," interrupted I, " that Colonel K has 

invited us for luncheon on Monday, but I told him that one 
of us had always to remain in the tent, as the last article 
stolen was a bottle of champagne." 



34° Two Women in the Klondike 

10 a.m. and no one to row us to Dawson. All neighbours 
soundly sleeping. Not a tent door or house door open. 

10.30. Jones sleepily appears, only to hear that we have 
no wood and have not been able to hire anyone to fetch us 
some, as there have been no passers-by. He kindly skir- 
mished about West Dawson, but not a man would chop fuel 
on Sunday. " I did n't like to tell 'em it was for the ' big 
tent,' or else you would 'a' been 'hot' at them a-doin' 
it for nawthin' or at the ' out-of-sight price' they 'd 'a' 
asked you." So, like the good soul he was, he had stopped 
and cut it for us himself. 

It was quite eleven before I could reach Dawson to keep 

my appointment with M and S . " Only an hour 

late," said they, as I entered the little establishment to check 
off the goods on the only day when we could not be inter- 
rupted by customers. We worked steadily until one, when 

Mr. M invited me to the restaurant opposite for luncheon. 

The cheapest thing on the bill of fare was " lamb chops, one 
dollar and fifty cents." This I immediately selected. It 

was served with very good bread, butter, and pickles. M 

told me of many interesting experiences in Alaska Several 
of our friends who passed came in to greet us, among others 

Von M , who said," I not only saw you, but noticed that 

the fixtures are for the acetylene light, so stopped to see if 
some one here could teach me the secret of preparing the 
gas, as I must try and use it unless I can find a good tank 
to replace your useless gas-bags. ' ' After luncheon I finished 
checking off the list of " personal effects " that I did not wish 

to take back. M had written them all down, and the 

sum amounted to between seven and eight hundred dollars. 
" Well, I guess I won't get married," said he, " if ladies 
have to travel with so much stuff that they don't want, be- 
sides all the beautiful things that you ladies are taking back." 

Just as we were beginning to check off the groceries, Von 

M came and offered to assist. I read and checked 

from the bill. M found the articles and packed them on 

shelves, while Von M wrote the list and numbered them 

in M 's book. It was quite six before we finished. 



A New Experience 34 1 

c< What can we do now? " said I. " We are leaving on 
Wednesday ; only Monday and Tuesday to do our packing, 
and it will be impossible to check the remainder with your 
shop full of customers." " Oh, the checking now will take 
very little time. Can you be here at seven to-morrow morn- 
ing ? " — " Should like to, but there's not a man in West Daw- 
son who can get up before nine, and here 's Mr. Von M , 

who slept till nearly one to-day, according to his own confes- 
sion." " If I had a boat," said M , " you should never 

have that excuse for not coming early, for I 'd row you over 
myself," and he looked as though he very much doubted my 
ability to rise earlier than any other West Dawsonite. 

Von M escorted me down to the water-front, where I 

met C , who inquired if the bowling-alley had yet been 

disposed of, and, if not, whether he could get at it after our 
departure in case he should find a good customer, his in- 
tention being to try and float a small company with the idea 
of gaining a ten per cent, commission on its sale. A Jewish 
fellow-passenger next accosted me to ask if I would let him 
have the fifteen -pound blankets just received in my box 
from Murphy Grant for fifteen dollars. " Most certainly 
not," said I ; " the cost was twelve dollars, the freight one 
dollar and fifty cents, to say nothing of the duty." — " But 
what are you going to do with them ? Blankets are a drug 
on the market." " Keep them," said I ; " not give them 
away, certainly." As we were approaching the canoe, a raft 
was tied in front of it, blocking egress entirely. " How do 

you expect us to get out ? " said Von M . " Oh, you '11 

find a way if you try," replied the owner as he disappeared 
into one of the houses. Although we pushed small boats 
this side and that, we could make no room for the egress of 
the Anne. 

Von M then shouted until he brought out the man 

who had tied the raft, and having discovered from experience 
that only suasion is of use in this part of the world, he said, 
" I say, partner, will you lend us a hand at getting out of 
here ? " The man's manner instantly changed, he became 
most affable, and worked to such good effect, letting out the 



342 Two Women in the Klondike 

ropes of some boats, drawing in on others, that we were soon 
afloat. Before pushing off a man, catching sight of Ivan, 
said, " What a beauty ! I say, partner, I '11 give you five 
dollars spot cash for that dog." " Don't you think four 

would be quite enough?" retorted Von M . "Oh, 

you 're joshing ; but honour bright, I '11 give you seventy- 
five dollars, ' ' he shouted, as we got farther away from the 
shore. To relieve his mind, I called out, " A thousand 
down would not buy him ; he '11 earn that in prizes next 
year, and be known as the great Klondike traveller." We 
were soon at the tent, where E had been holding a re- 
ception the entire day, everyone of our Dawson friends and 
acquaintances having turned up. Nevertheless she had a 
dinner of corned beef, potato balls, and asparagus salad pre- 
pared, in which we were joined by Jones and Von M , 

the latter furnishing a loaf of his own bread, which was as 

delicious as E 's nice tea-biscuit. 

Von M and K washed dishes, and, as we gathered 

around the stove for pleasant converse, a sudden gale of 
wind sprang up, shaking the tent as a dog would a rag. In 
a few minutes shelves were all thrown down with a crash. 
Fortunately, that very day the glass had all been removed. 
The tent next became inflated, and was raised so high that 
all the side-poles were lifted out ; papers whirled about ; the 
stove-pipe bowed first in one direction, then in another. 

K looked outside and said, " It 's a hurricane sky, as 

black as ink ; the tent will surely fall to-night, and I don't 
want to remain. Oh ! if those men had only sent the lumber 
as agreed, we should now be under a solid roof." Good 
John came to the rescue again. " Take my tent, ladies, I 'm 
going to sleep over in town to-night any way, an' you might, 
just as well as not. It ain't for the likes o' you to be skeered 
all night when John 's got a nice little tent as tight as a 
drum, what no gale can harm." E was decidedly in- 
clined to accept this offer, saying, " We '11 be crushed to 
death if this does come down, and you '11 be responsible." 
But the workmen had assured me that, although the tent had 
been badly put up, at the same time there were so many 



344 Two Women in the Klondike 

ropes and they were so tightly fastened that we had no real 
cause for alarm. Towards midnight the gale abated, our 
fears were quieted, and we crawled into our smaller habita- 
tion and slept the sleep of the j ust. 

Monday, September 12th. 
Up at 5.30. Wrote steadily for two hours. At 9 a.m. 
Jones arrived, saying, " Unless you ladies want the frost to 
draw the nails out and the rain and snow to leak through 
your house, you '11 have to buy some tar paper to put be- 
tween the lumber and the slabs. It 's an awful price, but 
it 's the only thing to do ; only costs three dollars a roll in 
the States, but there 's a corner on it here and so it is selling 
for thirty dollars each, and almost impossible to get at that.'* 
George came to confirm this statement as to the absolute 
necessity of this extra expense, saying that had the lumber 
and slabs been according to order it would have been all 
right, but, owing to the fact that a different lot had been 
sent, tar-paper must go in ; that perhaps a roll and a half 
might do, which Jones hoped to get for forty-five dollars. 
Extra nails, door, hinges, and hasps were also wanted at 
once, so over I went with Jones to the North American 
Transportation Company to cash a check for one hundred 
dollars. Only ninety-five dollars was handed me in return. 
" What does this mean ? " — " Five dollars for commission ; 
that 's what we have to pay at the bank." — " Very well, 
then, you may close my account at once. I refused to go to 
the other company because they charged me two dollars and 
fifty cents a hundred on notes that would be sold at a pre- 
mium to miners going home who cannot carry so much gold 
dust, and opened an account here owing to the fact that you 
cashed at par." " Well," said the clerk, " we will do so 
this time, but hereafter must charge the percentage. " Jones 
was then given seventy dollars with which to purchase the 
necessary articles, and went off on another mission, for which 
as usual he Would accept nothing but thanks. I went to 

M and S 's to continue checking off the goods, a task 

which occupied me steadily until 4 p.m. The laundress 



A New Experience 345 

passed and was requested to bring the linen to me at once, 
but failed to do so, although she had promised readily 
enough. W — — was one of many to call and inquire for 
foolscap paper, and stopped to chat and chaff me about my 
" store." " There must be a corner in foolscap," said I to 

M . " Indeed there is, and had you brought enough to 

stock this store we should all have made our fortunes. One 
can ask any price for it now." 

The work ended, I went to pay Mr. W for the lumber 

with which our house was built, but his office was closed 
and padlocked. On my way back through Main Street, I 
stopped to inquire of real estate men if there was any demand 
for houses in West Dawson. They said that there was none, 
but that they were ready and willing to take charge of the 

cabin at once, and see what could be done. Met Mr. W 

talking to our consul, and stopped to tell him that as we 
were going out on Wednesday, I must pay dues " then or 
never." "I '11 go back with you," said he. " Tell him, 
Mr. Consul, please, that although I do live in the ' big tent,' 
which has created an erroneous impression in the minds of 
the people here, that I am only a poor widow, and must not 

be imposed upon." " On the contrary," said M , 

" widows are dangerous, and should be doubly taxed." 

Mr. W then escorted me to the office, and made out 

the forms, which I signed on four different papers, paying 
thirteen dollars. On handing me the receipt, he said, " The 
Government has decided to recognise ' squatters' rights ' 
in ' Dawson Annex,' so this bit of paper shows that you have 
paid your dues, and prevents your land from being jumped." 
"So it is not ' West Dawson,' but ' Dawson Annex? ' " 
questioned I. " That 's the official name for it," he re- 
plied. 

Back to M and S I went, only to learn that Von 

M had called for me and concluded that someone else 

must have rowed me across the river. Down to the usual 
rendezvous, to see if perchance good Jones might be there. 
Not a sign of him, and six o'clock struck. A long day from 
5.30 A.M. 



346 Two Women in the Klondike 

After waiting half an hour Neighbour K passed on his 

way home, and kindly rowed me over. He spent the even- 
ing, while a few of our neighbours " looked in " long enough 
to exchange a yarn or two. " Here 's the first letter I 've 
received for months," said one, and before reading it aloud 
he made the following explanation : " You see, I struck it 
pretty rich last year, and a reporter happening to meet me 
when I came back from one of my mines on Dominion with 
a big bag of nuggets, took a snap-shot and wrote me up. The 
picture and the story found their way up into a corner of 
New England where I used to live, and the next mail from 
there into Dawson brought me letters by the dozen from 
people I 'd never seen or heard of, but who 'd all developed 
an enormous lot of friendship for, and interest in me, since 
hearing that T 'd probably struck millions. The only one I 
answered was from a young girl who wanted me to look out 
for her brother, and here 's what she says in reply : 

" My dear Sir : Your kind and much appreciated letter 
came to hand several days ago. It may surprise you to hear 
that my brother returned home, after getting as far as Lake 
Linderman. He, with many others, lost his outfit and all 

provisions and turned homeward, reaching here about 

. His tales concerning the Klondike were thrilling in- 
deed " ("That 's good" — interrupted Q , — "and only 

got as far as Lake Linderman ! ") " and we are heartily glad 
to have him return with good health. He brought with him 
a handful of nuggets " — (" Wonder where he got them, in the 
Lake, or from behind a counter ? " was the next interruption) 
— " and a ring which is quite a curiosity. These he will keep 
to remind him of those miserable days. I can never thank 
you enough for the kindness you show in your letter. I feel 
assured that you would have done anything in your power 
for my brother, and in return, let me say that if I can in any 
way return the kindness, I shall be happy to do so. Though 
poor in this world's goods, we should rather have brother at 
home with us than running such risks. I have no sweet- 
heart to go to the gold mines. As you say of yourself, I 
have never been a favourite, but that does not make me 



A New Experience 347 

miserable. I have my father and mother to think of, and 
their comfort ought to be considered. You see my brother 
did not have very much * New England grit,' or he would 
have pushed on while so near. Now with ma?iy, many 
thanks, for the kindly and generous manner with which you 

have treated me, I am ever your true friend, D J . 

P. S. — Many wishes for good health and success." The 
reader of this epistle was so unmercifully chaffed that the 
party soon broke up. 

I told E of Jones's conversation while rowing me 

across in the morning. " It ain't for me to talk an' the 
likes o' that, but if you go away from here leavin' all your 
business to them ' Pick an' Dilly dudes ' you need n't never 
expect to see nothing o' your money. They don't know 
how to git on with the folks here, who gives 'em the laugh 
every time. You see these here English dudes they talks to 
yer like they woz the only people on this durn globe, an' 
the likes o' that, and the folks here ain't goin' to stand their 
grand airs, an' they '11 be puttin' them out before they knows 
it — them an' your machines an' everything else, an' then 
where are you ? Now if you 'd just 'a' trusted to them as 
you knows well, you 'd never 'a' had no trouble. I 've been 
about the world enough to know what 's what, an' can josh 
everybody an' keep 'em good-humoured all the time, but 
them there dudes, I ain't got no use for them, an' no one else 
ain't either." " Well, Jones," said I, " ' them there dudes' 
you talk about are most energetic, and rush to work the 
moment you tell them of anything." — " What have they 
done ? They 've had your animatoscope for weeks an' ain't 
made it work yet, an' ain't likely to." " But," interrupted I, 
" there are others whom we would like to trust who are more 
than willing, but always procrastinate, so that they have to 
be asked over and over again to do a thing until we are 
weary and they also." "All right," said Jones, " it ain't 
for the likes o' me to tell grand folks like you what to do, 
but I would n't trust my affairs as you 're a-trustin' yours, 
that 'sail." 

E then confided to me that when Jones took her across, 



348 



Two Women in the Klondike 



he had as passenger the bartender of C 's saloon, who 

said, " I ain't seen the parrot for a day or two. It made 
such a lot o' noise that I kinder miss it. What 's become 
of it ? " " Why, it died the first day it went over, ' ' responded 
Jones. " Not much," said the barkeeper. " I tell you it 
did," said Jones, " the very first day, as I told these ladies." 
" Well, it 's a pretty lively bird for a dead bird, then," said 
the barkeeper. After he left Jones said, " That there bar- 
keeper was just a-joshin' yer ter try and make you hot.'* 
What is the mystery ? 




CHAPTER XXVI 

IN THE NEW HOME AT I^AST 

Tuesday, September 13th. 

was rowed across by Jones early in the morning. 

She was to finish lists and attend to commissions ; I 
to remain and do the packing. At noon, George brought 
five men in to be paid off and laid off. One was paid a dollar 
too much, and not having the change offered to work it out 
in chores, an offer gladly accepted. He got some kindlings, 
but when we asked him to clean and hang up some pans, he 
said he was n't accustomed to such work and could n't do 
it. " Neither are we accustomed to it." " Well, it 's wo- 
man's work, anyhow." " Won't you clean this coat outside 
for me, then ? It 's too heavy for me to brush." " I don't 
know as I care to do that, either," said he, stepping out- 
side the tent ; " when you want wood chopped you can send 
for me." 

At two o'clock George announced that he could give me a 
couple of men to lend a hand at moving into the house if I 
were ready. In one corner in the back of the house we placed 
the stove, put up shelves, I driving in nails, having plenty of 
them for the first time. In another corner was an enormous 
supply of wood, all the ends left from the house, and shav- 
ings. The two other corners were reserved for our beds, 
which were boards, placed on four short logs of wood, cov- 
ered by canvas tightly stretched, our hammocks were laid on 
top of that, then our air mattresses minus the air. Blankets 
and comfortables were covered by the fur robes so kindly 

349 



35° Two Women in the Klondike 

loaned by Mr. L, , and by the one recently purchased 

for one hundred and thirty-five dollars, for which a generous 
man has just offered me seventy-five dollars. 

At 5 p.m. everything was in order, and I enjoyed receiv- 
ing my first visitors, Von M and W , who brought 

me fine news — that the animatoscope had been tried and was 
running so perfectly that they thought of giving an exhibi- 




OUR HOUSE FINISHED AT LAST. 



tion the following day, or else of taking that day to advertise. 
But their hopes were again dashed when they discovered an- 
other serious obstacle, viz., that the one hundred pounds of 
carbide for generating the gas, and for which we hold the re- 
ceipts from the Johnson-Locke Company, have never arrived. 
This necessitates the purchase of the only fifty pounds of 
carbide in town at a price twenty times higher than that 
which we paid in San Francisco. Their next information 



In the New Home at Last 35 l 

was that "Arizona Charlie's" show had shut down again, 
as he could get no more 86° gasoline. 

It was after seven when K returned in high spirits, 

after a most successful day. She was delighted with the 
house, the arrangements, and everything in general. 
Many heads stopped at the door to see the largest house in 
Dawson Annex. Many compliments were passed and we 
were feeling most happy over the change until Jones came 
with a bill for lumber almost one hundred dollars greater 
than the price contracted for. We became decidedly an- 
noyed over the discussion that followed. Jones declared that 
lumber at one hundred and twenty-five dollars a thousand 
was marvellously cheap, and that we had all that the bill 
called for ; we, on the other hand, could not understand why 
the lumber merchant had failed to keep to his contract. 
Jones said that he had sent much extra wood that was not 
included in the bargain, while George declared that it was 
not extra, but short. Jones concluded that there was no 
pleasure in doing favours and commissions for two such 
ladies, who thought more of twenty dollars " than a poor 
man like me of a hundred," and so we were bullied into 
giving him three hundred and sixty-four dollars to pay a 
bill which seemed all wrong. 

Von M came back from Dawson quite elated at the 

thought of the speedy opening of the show and pleased with 
his aristocratic staff of assistants to which is now added 

R , of Victoria, B. C. Mrs. T looked in to say, 

" you are never intending to sleep in this damp cabin to- 
night ! " — " Damp ! why we 've taken off rubber boots and 
muck-a-lucks for the first time, and are now enjoying shoes 
and a floor, instead of sinking in muddy ground." How we 
did enjoy our beds ! 



35 2 Two Women in the Klondike 

Wednesday, September 14th. 

Such a splendid, night's rest ! It was nearly seven when 
I got up, quickly dressed, and. opened the door facing the 
Yukon River, as the windowless mansion was in total dark- 
ness. What a glorious view ! the sun was just peeping 
through the mist that covered the mountains. George was 
on hand with another lot of men to be paid off, after which 
he said, " I don't like to see you two ladies done in the eye, 
but that lumber bill was all wrong, and I 'm ready to go 

with either one o' youtwo ladies and help you out." B 

had unfinished commissions, I, packing, to do, so it was 
easily arranged, and she got Jones, who arrived at 9.30, to 
row her across. One of the neighbours appeared to show 
me some views he had taken, and to exchange photographs 
for some of my chemicals. I got some fine Kodak views 
from our palace door, then went down the bank to snap the 
new steam-launch for which the owner asks seven thousand 
dollars, saying it is worth fifteen thousand on the " outside." 
Engaged " Dave " to wash dishes and clean up generally. 

Two steamers have left this morning, of which I have 
taken views while wondering whether their passengers will 
reach the outside or be shut in by the ice. Quite a gale is 
blowing, and my soul is filled with gratitude at being under 
this solid roof instead of in the big tent. Several neighbours 
called to admire the new house, which they said could easily 
swallow any four of the cabins of Dawson Annex. Towards 
dusk a young man approached the door saying, ' ' Have you 
any bread for sale ? " " Not this evening," I replied. On 
seeing my quizzical look, he took off his hat, saying, " This 
house is so big I thought it must be a store, excuse me for 
the mistake." 

Jones has been feeling sore for some time, and speaking 

of " Big A ," said, " I told him Miss V said me and 

him was n't no gentlemen for coming two hours late to din- 
ner. I think you 're both o' you grand ladies givin' us the 
laugh anyway, an' don't believe you 'd recognise us on the 
' outside ' even at a dog-fight ; anyway, you 've learned a 
lot o' Klondike expressions an' knows how to talk language 



354 Two Women in the Klondike 

that me an' A understand, and don't put on no airs r 

nor talk highfalutin' like them there dudes o' yourn. By 
gosh ! would n't I like to be at a dinner in New York and 

hear Mrs. H — — say to Miss V ' You bet, ' and hear Miss 

V call back, * That 's what '. I guess the folks would 

all drop their knives and forks and stare at you both like 

you was crazy." K brought some lamb chops, and that 

with potatoes constituted our dinner. As we were at table 
a neighbour called with his wife. They pictured the horrors 
of the Chilkoot in such a way that we shuddered and began 
to think of trying the White Pass instead. We were awak- 
ened at eleven by a knock at the door, then a voice called 
out, " Oh, I beg your pardon, have you already retired? 
Just came to report about the show ; the advertisement 
across the street worked beautifully and attracted hundreds 
and thousands. Will tell you all about it in the morning. 

Good-night." 

Thursday, September 15th. 

Opened the front and only door at half after six. Such a 
glorious day ! the sun already shining on the beautiful hills 
opposite, dressed in yellow autumn garb. George was on 
hand early to stake out another 50 x 100 lot, as we are en- 
titled to squatters' rights on a second bit of ground, so he 
told us that he would put a cache on it that would hold it. 

K then told me of her trip to the steamship office the 

previous day, where she had been able to change the cabins 
from the Ora to the Columbian, as it would have been im- 
possible for us to be ready in time for the former, but when 

she visited the Ora, and saw C , F , M , K , 

and others all going out and informed them of our change 
of plans, their regrets were loud and long, as they said they 
had arranged such a charming party to go over the Pass to- 
gether. Pass goes in capital letters as we have not yet 
crossed it and treat it with great respect and awe even in 

writing. K also told me of having disposed of the soda 

machine, until the purchaser found that the man who sold 
it had failed to inclose directions as promised, so that the 
deal was off and the article left on our hands. 



In the New Home at Last 355 

Von M appeared at 9.30 most enthusiastic over the 

show of the previous evening. Of all the hard-working, 
energetic fellows I have ever met he takes the lead. He is 
now to employ his evenings, from eight to eleven, throwing 
advertisements on a sheet across the Main Street, he to have 
fifty per cent, of the profits, the man who makes the slides 
twenty-five, while twenty-five per cent, is to be divided be- 
tween E and me for furnishing the machine and light ; 

so we felt very proud of having introduced a novelty into 

Dawson. Von M explained that they first threw artistic 

pictures until they had a large crowd gathered together, 
then advertised the animatoscope with the Corbett fight to 
take place the following day: " Go and see the Corbett 
fight," etc., etc., and wound up by saying, "Those who 

wish to advertise may leave orders at the O Sisters'." 

After the show was over, they were delighted to learn that 
many had made inquiries in regard to subscribing. We 
purchased in San Francisco one hundred pounds of carbide 
with which to run the acetylene light that illuminates this 
show, but although we have the receipt from the Tillamook 
or Johnson-Locke Company, and their promise that it should 
be sent by the first boat up the river, the barrel was left at 
St. Michaels and w 7 e are paying one dollar a pound for that 
which cost seven cents in California. " Done in the eye," 
as George would say, on all sides. The experience, how- 
ever, is valuable, though costly, and we shall know what to 

do next time. K was soon ready, and Von M took 

her to Dawson. As one of the keys of the Yale padlock 
which fastened our door had mysteriously disappeared, Von 
M exchanged with us for a padlock of his. 

I locked the cabin and went with George to select a site 
for the new house. We went on the hill, questioned the 
neighbours as to where the laud had been staked out, and 
where the street would probably run, and took 50 x 100 on a 
small elevation quite close to the creek. There I left George 
building the cache and returned to my journal. Dave soon 
came to see if he could assist me. He chopped wood and 
brought water, then was paid eighty-odd dollars for his 



35 6 Two Women in the Klondike 

twelve days' work, and said good-bye, as he was going up 
" to work for wages" on Bonanza this winter. As he 
wished me a safe trip home, he said, " In going out, I hope 
you won't have luck like ours, for when we came in we 
first struck a rock, and then an iceberg, after which the 
captain told us for to get out the life-boats, as we hadn't 
much time, as the ship was about to sink, an' then, would 
you believe it, I missed that landslide just as narrowly as I 
missed the shipwreck, an' my family in Los Angeles know- 
ing nothing about it." — " Our people at home would be 
greatly astonished to see the work we do and the privations 
we put up with here, would n't they, Dave?" " Indeed 
they would, ma'am," said the good old man. " I dunno 
what my wife would say to see me up here washing dishes 
for two ladies and doing kitchen work, when she thinks 
I 'm panning out nuggets and coming back with millions." 
I had scarcely settled down to accounts when Neighbour 

T called. " I 'm obliged to be most inhospitable," said 

I, " but I am deep in mathematics; if you '11 only come in 
the evening when the light is not sufficient for reading and 
writing and we are perforce idle, you '11 meet with a most 
cordial welcome." — " Oh, I just came to ask if you 'd take 
a letter out for me." — " With great pleasure." This re- 
minds me that M and S asked E yesterday if 

she would get their letters for them, as they had tried for 
weeks to enter the post-office but without success, the crowd 
in front of the door being so dense. In fact I saw men 
pushed out by main force by the police simply because they 

were too eager to enter for news from home. K , who is 

always obliging, went to the post-office and the crowd at 
once made way for her. Another woman also asked for 

S . " Here, } t ou ladies can take all the S 's," the 

clerk replied, and they were handed almost a barrelful to 

select from, but she could not get near the M list. She 

also saw the Crown Agent yesterday in regard to the land. 

It seems that J had applied for over one hundred 

acres, while the law allows only forty. He was told last 
week that the first demand had been refused, but that he 



In the New Home at Last 357 

might put in a petition for forty acres ; until he does so, all 
those who build are recognised squatters, and his forty 
acres cannot interfere with their rights. 

Jones has not yet made his appearance and it is now after 

one. " Our show " is to commence at two o'clock. E 

is going, but it would make me nervous if things went 
wrong. " Arizona Charlie's " show has shut down, not to 

reopen, and he has applied to Von M to take up his 

contract at the Combination Theatre, as he finds it impossi- 
ble to continue without gasoline. Another neighbour has 
just called to tell me that he is to build between two cabins 
as the commissioners say cabins can be five feet apart. Am 
thankful that there is no room on either side of our big 
house for more than a garden. The men who would take a 
lay on our claims on Bear Creek now say that they have not 
the time to go out and look at them and return to sign papers 
before we start. The man with the horse with whom we 
had the misunderstanding about bringing logs, has just been 

here, most anxious to take a lay on both claims. J 's 

partner, the Frenchman, has offered me his interest in the 
forty acres for a town site for two thousand five hundred 
dollars. A man who has an invalid wife at home and is wild 
to get to her, called to offer me a half interest in his richest 
claim for two hundred dollars — just the amount necessary to 
reach home, as he has no other way of raising it. Another 
neighbour stopped to tell me that he had a fine chance of 
buying a claim from a man just sent to the hospital. What 
opportunities for magnificent investments, besides ten per 
cent, a month on all money lent on Ai securities ! Still an- 
other neighbour stopped to say that Mr. O has promised 

to pay a visit' to " Dawson Annex " on either Saturday or 
Monday to take the lay of the land preparatory to a survey. 

K refused invitations to dinner and returned shortly 

after seven, Jones rowing her back and remaining to dine 

and wash dishes. After dinner Mr. S and Mr. F 

of the Alaska Commercial Company spent the evening, 
bringing the unheard-of luxury of a box of chocolates. Just 
as he left, Von M rushed in, saying, " The animatoscope 



35 8 Two Women in the Klondike 

is such a success that the manager of the Combination Com- 
pany wants to hire it, and has sent to know our terms, and 
as for the magic-lantern show in the street, we have three 
advertisements already at thirty dollars a week each, and 
are likely to have so many more that we shall probably soon 
be able to advance the price." Well-deserved success for 
Von M , after so much hard work ! 

Friday, September 16th. 
My turn to do commissions in Dawson to-day. Von 

M rowed me across, Jones carrying my packages to the 

boat. My first trip was to the Alaska Commercial Com- 
pany, as a Mr. Q had expressed a desire for my beauti- 
ful fur robe. Knowing that I was so soon to leave, could 
not take it out with me, and had no other opportunity for 
disposing of it, he made me an offer of one hundred dollars, 
though aware that it cost one hundred and thirty-five, and 
that its mate had been sold for two hundred and fifty. To 

M and S 's, where the latter said, " Oh, Mrs. H , 

you are just in time ; there 's a lady in the little room who 's 

going wild over the pretty things you and Miss V are 

leaving here. I could n't show them or explain to her satis- 
faction ; would you mind seeing her?" In I went and 
found " playing saleslady " so amusing and pleasant that I 
disposed of eighty dollars' worth in half an hour. From 
there to pay dues on the lumber for cache, to hold the land, 

but since the arrival of Mr. O , times have changed and 

W thought it impossible to comply with my request. 

So straight to headquarters I went and found O most 

charmingly affable. He immediately ushered me into a 

private room to listen to my appeal. " Go to W ," said 

he, " make a formal application for the two lots, one for 

you and one for Miss V , pay twenty dollars cash down, 

and, as the land is to be surveyed on Monday, you will have 
first claim if your houses do not stand on the street ; in case 
they do, they must be moved." " You do not mean to say 
that after putting up the most expensive house in West 
Dawson, there is a possibility of its being moved ? " " If it 



In the New Home at Last 359 

must be," said he in a kindly way, " I promise to have it 

done for you for two dollars." Back to W 's office, 

where, finding that I could not sign for E , I was 

obliged to put in an application for the lot on which our house 
now stands, and proud I was to learn that my name heads 
the list and my receipt is number one in the Dawson Annex 
or West Dawson book. " Land will be very valuable there 
next year," said the Crown Agent, " as Dawson is crowded, 
and filled with typhoid fever and dysentery, so that those 
who can get no land here, or who wish better sanitary 
arrangements will turn to the other side." 

On leaving the office, Captain B joined me, presenting 

two other officials, who posed before the government quarters 
in compliance with my request. Met Mr. W just re- 
turning from his claim on Bear Creek which adjoins mine. 
He stopped and triumphantly displayed some of the most 
beautiful gold I have ever seen, which he obtained at a 
depth of only two feet. From that time on, applications for 
a " lay" on our claims began to come in, until it is now 

embarras de richesses. W said, as he left, ''I'm sure of 

one thing, and that is, there 's enough gold in my Bear 
Creek claim to keep my family in luxury for the remainder 
of their lives, and as yours is ' end on ' with my ' pay 

streak' you can feel very happy over it." Passing M 

and S 's store again, they begged me to come in and see 

two ladies who were anxious to get some of our fine laces, 
so in I went and explained and showed to their heart's con- 
tent. After they had decked themselves in our laces and 
ribbons and flowers, etc., I said, " Have you ever tasted any 
of Van Camp's tomato soup ? It 's the most delicious thing 
we brought in." — " Oh, we must try it then, if you think 
so," and presently their order ran up into the hundreds and 
our commission merchants wanted to engage me as well as 

K for a partner. I found it quite as much of a lark as 

she had done, and felt as though back at a booth, selling for 
a church fair once more. 

Von M hunted me up to give me a private exhibition 

of the animatoscope, which runs beautifully ; he had just 







6o Two Women in the Klondike 



shown it to the managers of the Combination Company, who 
expressed themselves as delighted with it and ready for a 

" dicker." M , W , and R accompanied me for 

the last shopping, and then, having refused the Captain's in- 
vitation to dinner, Von M and B rowed me home. 

A storm was brewing, and we gained the shore just as the 
gale sprang up in all its force and tried to blow the canoe 

out to sea. Von M and Jones dined with us. We were 

thankful at being out of the tent and in high and dry quarters, 
as the floodgates were let loose and the rain came down in 
such torrents that it seemed as though Biblical history were 
about to repeat itself and we to be prisoners in the ark. To 
our four candles, Jones had contributed a lantern (we had 

sold our fifty-cent one for three dollars), and Von M a 

fine kerosene light ; even this extra illumination did not fill 
the corners of the house, so we gathered around the table to 
read the latest paper from Seattle, dated August 26th, which 
I had been induced to buy for fifty cents, as the young rascal 
who was selling them like hot cakes had called out, " War 
still going on in the United States. War begun between 
England and Roosh-er. " Towards eleven, the patter on the 
roof-top being a little lighter, our guests said good-night 
and went out into the blackness. 

Saturday, September 17th. 

Jones and I are decidedly at cross-purposes. He does not 
like my " dude " friends and " haughty " ways, and is be- 
coming very sulky to me, while still devoted to E . Last 

evening he went with her to find the cache which we had 
paid George for building, but there was not a trace of it to 
be seen, so they said. Jones accompanied me to have it 
pointed out, but there were only four sticks in the ground and 
the men about there said that our workmen had done nothing 
else ; that they had cleared the land and felt entitled to it, so 

E promised to see the Crown Agent in regard to it. 

Another man came for a "lay" on our claims. " I told 
you I was going to work them for you," said Jones ; " have 
you any objection to me a-doin' it, Mrs. H ? " — " Yes, 



In the New Home at Last 361 

Jones. A has given you a ' lay ' on Sulphur, which is 

too far away, and then again you say you are going ' out.' 
Your plans change daily, while I want an experienced miner 
who will attend to nothing else." — " When I tells you I 'm 
goin' to do it, I 'm goin' to do it ; an' if I goes out I puts 
someone on ter the lay — see ? " — " That won't do ; there 's 
to be a contract drawn up and the work is to be done sys- 
tematically." Jones looked angry and said nothing more. 
There was no water in the bucket, and the spring is a block 

off. I spoke of it once or twice to E , but Jones made no 

move to get any. I took the bucket and started for the 
spring ; he never moved, and allowed me to go. He looked 
very sullen when I returned, and soon after disappeared. 

E said, " I told him he ought to be ashamed of himself," 

to which he replied, " Well, she 's nicer to them there dudes 
an' the likes o' that than she is to me, and if she wants me to 
do anything for her she 's just got ter ask me." 

E left at ten to be rowed across the river by Jones. I 

had just begun to wash the breakfast dishes when she 
entered, dripping. " Fell into the Yukon and was up to my 
neck when Jones pulled me out." " Don't stop to talk, but 
come to the fire and get into dry clothing as soon as possi- 
ble," said I, hastily preparing a hot drink and warm flannels. 
' The rock from which I stepped was very slippery, and 
as I was about to get into the canoe I lost my footing and 
was in the Yukon before I could realise what had happened. 
Had Jones not caught my hand I should have been carried 
down by the current ; even as it was, it seemed an impossi- 
bility for him to lift such a weight as mine into the canoe, 
which tipped as he leaned over. I could get no hold on the 
rock, so simply threw myself on my back to float, and that 
was the only thing that saved me. How I got on shore is a 
mystery to me, for you know the river is very deep there. I 
did not think of myself at all, but only of what a terrible 
thing it would be for you to go home and tell my mother of 
my drowning. Oh, but the water was cold ! " An hour 

after, E had quite recovered and insisted upon carrying 

out her original plan of rowing to Dawson, leaving me to 



362 Two Women in the Klondike 

finish packing. She is in for another ducking, unfortunately, 
as the rain is now coming down " in sheets." 

A visit from a neighbour to inquire if I need wood or 
water. He has just left after giving me a graphic description 
of his summer on the Stewart River. He and his five com- 
panions had begun to build a few doors nearer the creek, he 

said, when J came like he owned the country and 

ordered him off. " One of my pals invited him to visit a 
warmer clime, and he came down off his high horse and 
begged us not to put up our shack there, pending litigation ; 
so we moved to the other side of your mansion, where we in- 
tend to live. W has just put up a sign to stop building 

until after the land shall have been surveyed. We did stop 
for a day, but after talking it over, decided to go ahead, even 
if they jail the lot of us, and we '11 see who has the greater 
influence in Ottawa." " But, since the law allows fifty feet 
front," said I, with the air of a landed proprietor, " why 
should you encroach upon the rights of others, and why 
should you not put up your cabin where 3^ou can have your 
full allowance ? " " Oh, we don't care for the ground," he 
replied, " we only want a roof over our heads. You see this 
part of the world is not at all as we expected. We had an 
idea that it was only necessary to come here to make a for- 
tune — perhaps not to pick up gold in the street, but, at least, 
that men with good health and willing to work might make 
a good living until opportunity threw something fine in their 
way. Instead of that, we wasted the entire summer pro- 
specting on Stewart River, but, finding nothing, we have 
come here where the demand for workers is far less than the 
supply. If I could go back and take my old position at three 
thousand dollars a year in Ottawa how gladly would I do so ; 
but a man, once having come here, is ashamed to return 
without having made his pile, consequently I must stay for- 
ever, perhaps, although my dear old mother is seventy and 
praying to see me once more." 

Here he was joined by one of his partners, whose face was 
so radiant that he said, " It 's easy to see that he 's had a 
letter from home." " How did you manage to get it ? " I 



In the New Home at Last 



.63 



inquired, " for yesterday the line before the post-office of 
those waiting to enter was so long that I photographed 
it." — " Why, we come from Ottawa, and we 're friends 

of O 's, and we 've promised to go over to-morrow 

and help assort the bags of newspapers." — "Then take 

our names, Miss V 's and mine, and try and get ours 

before our steamer sails, and you '11 be rewarded by some 




WAITING FOR THE MAIL. 



New York papers, if you care to have them." — " Care ! 
care for them ! Just think what a long winter's night 
means to six boys in one cabin with nothing to read. We '11 
bless you all winter for them." Another neighbour now 
appeared, saying, " What do you intend to do with your 
big tent ? " — " Pack it, unless someone offers a high price 
for it. It 's worth at least a thousand dollars up here, 
but rather than pack it, we will take eight hundred dollars 



364 Two Women in the Klondike 

cash for it." " Very well, I '11 go and see my partner, as 
there 's to be a big boom in the spring at Forty Mile, where 
there is very little lumber, and we want to be ready to open 
a restaurant or something when the first rush begins. We 
have another tent in view, and shall take the cheaper one." 
I smiled, knowing that the largest tent in Dawson could be 
put in a small corner of ours. 

Jones then arrived, saying, " Miss V has just sent this 

bag to you, and says, will you sell one of your hats, as you are 
' going out ' where you can get plenty, an' the likes o' that, 
and some ladies over in town ain't got none and wants to 
have one o' yours. ' ' Five minutes after, my two city hats 
were packed and Jones was taking them down to his canoe. 
Jones also told me that the Columbian is not in yet, and 
should she come to-night she cannot leave before Monday or 
Tuesday, which is rather alarming, as yesterday we had the 
first frost and the ice is ready to form at any moment. What 
should we do if shut in for the winter ? Just then we heard 
a loud whistle and blowing off of steam, and a steamer passed. 
"What is her name? She's flying the British flag." — 
" The Domville, I think." — " No, it can't be ; it must be 
oars," and down to the bank I rushed. Twilight was com- 
ing on, but glad indeed was I to see Columbian in big letters, 
which means that by this time next week we shall be well 
on our way towards home and friends once more. 

E returned at six after a most unsuccessful day. Her 

bath in the Yukon had delayed her so that she was too late 
for her appointments. The land office had closed, and she 

could not get the receipts for our two lots. M was away, 

so she could not sign the contract and get our five hundred 
dollars. She had found the streets too slippery and muddy 
for words, and said that she might just as well have remained 
at home, adding, " Much as I want to leave lest we should 
be shut in by the ice, still it is a lucky thing for us that the 
Columbian cannot sail before Monday at three, as that will 
give us the time to have our legal papers drawn up and get 
miners to work our ' lays.' " Jones chopped wood, brought 
water, cleaned the fish, washed the dishes, and made him- 



In the New Home at Last 365 

self so helpful that I forgave him for letting me get the pail 
of water in the morning, and pretended to have forgotten it. 
I also bound up his finger when he cut it during the wood- 
chopping. We were all tired, so he left at nine in such a 
rain-storm that, feeling certain no one would venture out, we 
retired early. Hardly were we in bed before we saw the 
rays of a lantern through a crack in the door and heard a 

loud knocking, and there was K , who was obliged to 

postpone his call till the following evening. 

Sunday, September 18th. 

We slept soundly until after six when, by the dim light of 
the candle, I saw a mouse running across my bed and into 
the blankets. There was no stopping then to yawn or to 
turn over for an extra snooze. Out of bed I bounded with 
a shriek that must have aroused every neighbour, while 

E shouted with laughter, saying, " How can you be 

afraid of a dear little thing like that ? It seems impossible." 
After dressing, on opening the door, the first sight that met 
my eyes was the mountain opposite covered with snow. Our 
hearts sank. What will it be on the summit ? What shall 
we do ? We never can cross with a light snow hiding the 
bad places, and not sufficiently packed for a sled. And we 
both marvelled at our daring to wait until so late in the 
season. The rain was still pouring down, everything muddy 
and slippery, and only a little wood remaining that was fit to 
burn, although many cords are stacked in one corner of the 
house, but they are too green for this year's use. Not a man 
in sight who could be hired. All our kind neighbours would 
gladly work as a favour, but this pride forbids our asking. 

"Jones says he '11 never cut another stick for you nor 
bring you a drop of water unless you ask him ; that you 're 
1 that haughty to him now you treat him like the dirt beneath 

your feet.' " At this moment he entered, and E said, 

"We are almost frozen to death." "That so? Well, I 
ain't goin' to have it said that two ladies froze to death while 
John was here to make a fire for 'em an' the likes o' that," 
and with these words he took the green wood and wielded 



366 Two Women in the Klondike 

the axe with such force that he soon had the stove filled with 
shavings and small bits that crackled and warmed that 
corner most beautifully; then we had to choose between two 
evils, keeping warm and sitting where it was too dark to read 
or write, or remaining near the door through which came our 
only light and being too cold to hold the pen. 

Jones finished chopping, eyed the wood and said, " Well, 

Miss V , if I 'm to row you over to town at ten o'clock, 

I think there 's enough wood to keep you warm until then, 
an' I 'm glad to have chopped it for yer. coz yer asked me 
so perlite like," and he seated himself on a box and looked 
at me maliciously as much as to say, " an' if you don't do 
the same, yer kin stay here an' freeze to death." I went 
several times to the door to see if there might be a passer-by 
who could be hired, but although the rain had at last ceased 

no one was in sight. Finally, as K 's preparations for 

town were almost completed, I humbly said, " I 'm sorry to 
trouble you, Mr. Jones, but would you be so kind as to chop 

enough wood to keep the fire until Miss V 's return ? " 

" Certainly, with great pleasure," said John, as he caught 
the axe and swung it high in air and rapidly packed the 
wood, as one having had years of experience. 

" You 'd oughter 'a' seen Miss V yesterday morning 

though, Mrs. H ," said Jones suddenly ; " if it 'd been 

you, you 'd 'a' drowned sure ; but she never said a word and 
never shrieked as you 'd 'a' done, nor clutched at the canoe 
to tip it over. She did'nt lose her head a little bit, but when I 
reached her, she just kep' a-holt o' my hand and turned over 
on her back and floated without making any fuss at all. And 
then you oughter 'a' seen the clever way in which she gradu- 
ally worked one foot into the canoe quiet like, and that too 
with the Yukon thirty feet deep right where she was. I did n't 
know for a mi-ait what I should do. I knowed I could n't get 
no grip only holding her by the hand, and that I must get her 
arms, so I dropped her hand sudden-like and caught her 
right under the arms, where I cud lift her good, an' you 
know she ain't no light weight, so it shows how strong I am, 
to 'a' been able to 'ave saved her," concluded Jones proudly. 



In the New Home at Last 3 6 7 

" Now about them trout you bought last night," said he, 
changing the subject ; " don't you let no fellow fool you 

again, Miss V , by calling that there fish trout. I did n't 

like to say nothin' about it last night, 'cause you was so 
proud o' your trout, but them 's the only fish on earth that 
ain't got no scales, an' yer only got to go outside the door to 
see how many scales I cleaned off them there fish. Now 
next year when you two ladies come up here, if you can't 
get no cook, an' the likes o' that, just let John know, an' 
he '11 take a lot o' lessons, so 's to be able to do your cookin' 
for yer all summer. How did you happen to bring meat 

home in a newspaper, Mrs. H ?" continued the queer 

youth ; " you who are so particular about having nice paper 
to wrap your things up in." — " I asked the butcher if he 
could not put it in brown paper ; he looked at me a moment, 
then smiled, and said he thought he was doing me a great 
favour to wrap it at all, as there was so little paper in town 
that few could obtain it." " Well, I guess there 's wood 
enough here for all day," said Jones, " I '11 come back an' 
wash the dishes, an' if me an' you 's good friends to-night, 
an' there's not a lot o' dudes around, I '11 wash 'em again 
after dinner ; that is, if your steamer don't go out to-day." 

" What 's this ? " exclaimed B , as she raised a cover 

from a saucepan, " and this ?" raising another, "and this?" 
looking at a platter containing a white pyramid. Meekly I 
confessed, " I wanted to cook something before your return, 
so thought I 'd try a risotto. I filled a saucepan with rice, 
covered the rice with water, and while writing happened to 
glance up to find the rice swelling so fast that the overflow 
filled that first pan ; a few moments later, it did the same 
thing again, and so I had to fill one dish after another until 
there was nothing left to put the surplus in, and the re- 
mainder in the bottom was cooked to death and there was no 
multitude to be fed, for even the Siwash dogs refused to eat 
it." " Why, that 's just like the miracle what I heard about 
in church one time when I was a kid," said Jones ; " only 

them was bread an' fishes." K said she had once read 

of someone 's having a similar rice-cooking experience, but 



368 Two Women in the Klondike 

thought it a fable, never dreaming that anyone could be 
such a " ninny." She begged me to leave the culinary de- 
partment to her for the remainder of our stay. 

W then appeared, saying, " Well, ladies, I 've some- 
thing pretty to show you," as he carefully unfolded a paper 
and showed us another lot of gold from his claim which ad- 
joins ours on Bear Creek. " Oh, how beautiful ! Won't you 
sell me just a little of it to take home ?" — " Would you say 
it came from your claim ? " " Certainly not," I replied in 
righteous indignation ; " I have not lived here long enough 
to have learned to tell Yukon lies, and shall only represent 
absolute facts." " Well, if I don't go out on the Columbian 
to-morrow to sell my claim, I '11 present you with this," re- 
plied W , " because I can go back there and get plenty 

more. I saw a lady up there yesterday who pulled out a 
poor fellow's stakes and put hers in, and when I told her he 
might call me for a witness, she said, ' W T ell, he had n't 
oughter 'a' staked here when he knew I was a-comin' ; he 
only got two hours ahead o' me an' that don't count.' It 
was powerful wet up there, an' I had n't even a tent, an' 
had to sleep out in the rain." 

E finally started for Dawson to get the steamer tickets. 

Sunday or no Sunday, it had to be done, as they refused to 

sell them before the arrival of the boat. Neighbour D 

came to apply for a " lay " ; he talked of his life up here and 
of the impossibility for those at home to realise that we are 
all cooking, washing dishes, " and the likes o' that," as 
Jones would say, rather than engaged in panning out mil- 
lions. " If ever I get back to my wife again," said he, 
" I '11 just tell her that she 's the best cook on earth, and I 
know what it means after eating all the messes that we boys 
concoct." George came in to say that fine reports are being 
heard on all sides from Bear Creek, and that we are likely to 
derive a good thing therefrom, but the trouble is that all men 
who own claims want to go ' ' out ' ' : the men who remain 
want to " work for wages," and no one cares to take a 
" lay" until after having prospected the mine and had a 
chance of finding the pay streak. " Taking a lay " necessi- 



In the New Home at Last 3 6 9 

tates three months of hard work, building a cabin, digging 
through ice and snow, and putting up sluice-boxes for the 
spring clean-up, for all of which the owner pays nothing, 
and the ' ' lay ' ' man runs the chance of not making wages. 

A sudden booming as of hundreds of rifles. The dogs run 
in all directions. Ivan comes and seeks protection at my 
side. Bang ! bang ! bang ! I go to the door to discover the 
cause of all this commotion in Dawson and see an enormous 
flock of wild geese flying across the town. Not one seems 
to fall ; they are high in air ; but Dawson covers a long ex- 
tent of ground, the geese do not change their course, and the 
-shots continue for some time. " Don't believe they 've hit 
a single one," calls out a neighbour. He joins me as we 
walk down to the water-front to see the result, when down 
comes the rain again and we rush back to cover. 

" It begins to look as though miners' wrongs and griev- 
ances were to be righted," he observed, " now that O 

has at last appeared. He seems a pretty square sort o' man, 
and has just as much time for a poor fellow as for the most 

important individual here. If W and W had 'a' 

stayed here much longer they 'd 'a' been murdered, sure. I 
know of two or three fellows who were a-layin' for 'em, and 
ready to swing for it, too. I see the land over here is to be 
•surveyed to-morrow, and then there '11 be no more trouble 
about squatters' rights, and we '11 know what we do own 
an' what we don't, an' there 's a big satisfaction in that, I 
tell you. This is a pretty nice shack o' yours. What do 
you intend to do with it ? Comin' in next year? That 's 
right ; the boys '11 be glad to see you back an' give yer a 
hearty welcome, too, coz you 've been powerful kind in 
givin' us medicines, lendin' us books and papers, an' the 
like, an' tho' some of us ain't come in an' been neighbourly, 
coz you 've had grand folks from Dawson, we 've allers been 
ready to stand by you and would 'a' been on hand for your 
buildin' bee if ever you 'd set a time when you wanted us. 
But you went an' hired such a lot o' men, and had a reg'lar 
overseer, so that we kinder felt like we 'd be in the way. 

11 What you goin' to do with your mandolin ? I would n't 



37° Two Women in the Klondike 

mind taking care o' it myself till you come back. Dunno- 
how to play, but I might learn long winter evenings. " " No 
one ever had a better lot of neighbours," said I ; " they 're 
all making such kind offers. One is willing to take care of 
my beautiful dog, another of my fur robe, still another of my 
zither, and even half a dozen have offered to live in and pro- 
tect the house for us during our absence, so " — " Well ? " 
said the man, grinning expectantly ; — " so we have talked it 
over and decided that we cannot impose upon such kindness, 
and good-nature and have appointed an agent who will de- 
vote his entire time to caring for our interests, as this prop- 
erty will be valuable next year. Already every lot on 
the water-front has been taken, and even on the hill very 
few bits of land remain, so what will it be next year, should 
there be another influx ? In Dawson, cabins of one and two 
rooms rent for from one hundred to five hundred dollars a. 
month, so a house with four rooms and a wide mess-halL 
should bring a handsome rental, particularly as it will soon 
be too cold for the hundreds who are now living in tents to 
occupy them much longer." 

Mr. T next appeared with a beautiful big fish cleaned 

and prepared for cooking. " Won't you and Miss V 

accept this for your dinner? " " How very kind ! Just 
what we were wishing for, and not a shop open in Dawson ! " 
said I, as I stopped blowing the fire. " Let me do it for 

you," said T , depositing the fish. " Do you want a big 

fire ? " — " Just as big a one as the stove will hold, as I wish 
to boil water to wash the dishes." — " Are you going to Santa 

Barbara, Mrs. H ? " — " I hope and expect to go there." 

— " Won't you please deliver a letter in person to my dear old 
mother ? It would be such a gratification for her to see 
someone who can give her particulars impossible to write." 
And upon receiving my promise to look up the mother 
immediately upon arrival, and taking a last look at the 
sparkling, crackling fire, he left to attend to the haul of hun- 
dreds of fish from his net, which he intends to dry and keep 
for the winter's dog-food. And thus is the time frequently 
passed instead of in the alluring search for gold with pick 



In the New Home at Last 37 1 

and shovel. Next visitor, Colonel Q , who said that he 

had come all the way down from Bonanza to bid us good-bye 
and asked if we had finished all that we had to do before 
starting. " Yes, we 've given ' lays ' on all our claims ex- 
cept the Bear Creek, and shall sign papers to-morrow for 
that." — " Bear Creek ! why, that 's the coming El Dorado ! 
What number?" — "No. — ." — "Just in the heart of the 

gold region ! Why ' Big A ' has bought all around 

there, which shows what it must be. Don't give the lay to 
any ordinary miner. Let me put my men on both claims — 

yours and Miss V 's, for this year's — work; unprospected 

as they are, I '11 gladly take an option on them for fifteen 
thousand dollars each for only half-interest, and will pay you 
in the spring out of my part of the pannings. I can show 
you all sorts of references from people whom you probably 
know, and letters from the syndicate that is backing me." 
After some further conversation on the subject, I promised 

to talk it over with K , Colonel Q to come in the 

morning with papers drawn up, in case we should both be 
ready to sign. 

Next visitor was Mr. H , of the North American Trans- 
portation Company, who has been most courteous in cashing 
checks for us. He was anxious for me to see his aunt in 
New York, and tell her something of his life here, so gave 
me a little sketch of his experiences. He " came in " about 
a year ago, full of hopes and light of pocket, as did many an- 
other who had preceded him on the road to the land of gold. 
Realising that fortunes were not to be picked up by the way- 
side nor found in the first shovelful of earth, he had not 
allowed false pride to interfere, but had taken the first work 
that offered itself, which in this case meant carrying heavy 
packs for twenty dollars a day. When one has one's own 
" grub," money at that rate rolls up rapidly, and he soon had 
sufficient to purchase a lot of dogs and bring them to Daw- 
son, where he sold some of them for four and five times what 
they had cost, and retained others for winter work. 

He soon had a few thousand dollars put aside and was 
looking about for an investment, when a miner told him of a 



37 2 Two Women in the Klondike 

third interest to be purchased in a fine-looking claim from a 
man who was homesick and anxious to go out. After long 
and careful consideration the thousand dollars was paid, and 
the miner sent out to prospect. He found such rich pan- 
nings that he covered the hole and rushed back to try and 

persuade Mr. E to obtain another third, which he shortly 

after succeeded in doing. The third and last partner not 
only refused to be bought out, but offered a large sum for 
the two-thirds, which was most tempting to our hero. He 
followed the advice of an old and experienced man, however, 
and not only kept the property, but sent workers out for the 
winter. " Here are some of the nuggets from it," said Mr. 

K ; " won't you select one and accept it from me to put 

with the collection you are taking out ? " " But if you give 
away nuggets like this, you will have none left to exhibit," 
I objected. "It is very seldom I meet one to whom I care 
to offer a nugget, and in such a case it is a real pleasure to 
have her do me the honour." 

His courteous manner overruled my objection, and I 
heartily thanked him for the beauty which he chose for me. 
" It has not been all smooth sailing," continued he. " Be- 
fore Captain H gave me a position as bookkeeper in the 

North American Transportation Company, I was making a 
trip with three companions when we lost not only our boat, 
but all our provisions, and were eight long days with abso- 
lutely nothing to eat — but you must be tired of hearing me 
talk of myself. When do you go out ? " — " On the Colum- 
bian to-morrow. " — ' ' But have n't you heard the news ? She 
has just come in, and as the ice has already begun to form in 
the Yukon, she will not make another trip, but goes to her 
winter quarters at Fort Selkirk." " Oh, impossible ! " I 
cried in alarm, at the thought of being shut in for the winter 
without proper stores and heavy clothing. " Why, Miss 

V and I have already engaged our passage." " All I 

know," said Mr. B , " is that a friend of mine who was 

going out on her has just had his money refunded." At this 
moment one of my new neighbours entered and said, " Do you 
know that we are all shut in for the winter and cannot get 



In the New Home at Last 373 

out, as the Columbian is now going into winter quarters ? " 
— " Oh what shall we do ? It would be delightful if we had 
come with comforts and luxuries, prepared to remain, but as 
it is, we have disposed of everything and have not even a 
good stove, as this one does not keep us warm enough even 
at this season." 

Then came K , looking the picture of despair. ' Well, 

I suppose you have heard the news ! We are shut in for the 
winter. The Columbian has made her last trip, and now it 
only remains for us to freeze to death, and I should prefer 
blowing my brains out. I knew something terrible was 

going to happen. Why did we wait?" Von M and 

Jones, who followed, tried their best to console us by paint- 
ing the pleasures of a winter in Dawson in most glowing 
colours ; but nothing could rouse us from the fit of despair 
into which we had been thrown. 

Although it was 6 p.m., and I had not dined, I persuaded 

Von M to row me across to Dawson in search of better 

news. We went first to the agent of the Columbian, who 
said we might go as far as Fort Selkirk, where we would 
have at least a chance of being picked up by some small 
steamer and taken on to Bennett, but that he could give no 
guarantee that we would not be left at Selkirk the entire 
winter. He said, further, that he was going on the Colum- 
bian, and would do all in his power to assist us in every 
way, but thought it more than likely that we would run 
great risks, and he could not avoid the responsibility of 
telling us so. From there to the office of the small steamer 
Willie Irving. Her agent thought she would be able to 
make another trip, but she would not be ready to start for 
several days ; thence to the office of the Flora. Her agent 
had not yet returned, but I would not go back without some 

encouraging news for E . We walked through the Main 

Street, meeting many acquaintances, some of whom said, " It 
is all nonsense worrying about ice in the Yukon. Why, the 
steamers can run until October ist. The only trouble with 
the Columbian is that she has received a large contract for a 
cargo of cattle, which will pay her much better than taking 



374 Two Women in the Klondike 

the one hundred and fifty passengers, and so she gives them 
the ' go-by.' " 

This was encouraging, but not sufficiently so, and we 
wandered on until, as good luck would have it, we came face 

to face with Mr. F , the courteous manager of whom we 

were in search, and received from him the glad tidings that 
the Flora would leave on Tuesday or Wednesday and that, 
although her accommodations could not compare with those 
on the Columbia?i, the best cabin on board should be reserved 
for us. I w T as in a great hurry to take back this good news, 

but Von M had a positive engagement at eight, so Mr. 

F 's brother very kindly offered to row me back. ' ' Have 

you crossed the river often ? " I asked, with some anxiety. 
" Oh, no ! " he answered ; " I 'm generally in a great funk 

on the water, but I '11 do my best." Von M saw my 

reluctance to accept the services of one who made such a 
confession, and laughed as he said, " Don't you worry, Mrs. 

H , he '11 take you over all right ; he 's only trying to 

tease you." Von M pushed off the frail canoe and de- 
parted with a don voyage. My heart was in my mouth, as I 

remembered that K had just had another narrow escape, 

which I have failed to record. 

A steamer coming in had cut adrift several of the rafts that 
line the water-front, and they had done much damage to the 
small craft ; among other things had stove a hole in Jones's 
canoe just above the water-line, which he had not noticed 
until half-way across the Yukon, and was just entering the 
strong eddy. Had I been the passenger he would have said 
nothing and trusted to luck to my remaining motionless, but 

knowing K to be so cool and collected, and with such 

marvellous presence of mind he said quietly, " Your life de- 
pends upon your not moving ; you must scarcely breathe, as 
the least tip of the canoe will cause the water to rush through 
the hole and we shall be swamped and drowned before aid 

can reach us." Needless to say E followed instructions 

to the letter, although she saw Jones's face blanch with ter- 
ror as he crossed the dangerous current, and she breathed a 
sigh of relief when he said, " We were pretty nigh death a 



In the New Home at Last 375 

few moments ago and it was only your courage what saved 
us." 

I bore all this in mind as F started out into the dark- 
ness and towards the rapid current. " You must row up 
against it until you near the opposite shore and then float 
down with it," I meekly suggested. " Is this far enough 

up?" said F , with strong, manly stroke. " You row 

as though accustomed to the oar and are probably laughing 
in your sleeve at me, still I 'm such a coward that I 'm glad 
you gave me an opportunity for begging you to row up- 
stream, as I 've seen many boats swept down en route to 

Circle City." As we lauded, F said he must hurry 

back, then asked again how far up-stream he must row be- 
fore attempting to cross ? There was that in his tone which 
made me quite certain that he was making game of me, so I 

was not at all surprised when Von M returned at nine 

o'clock and said, " F was delighted at fooling you so, 

and told me all about it. Why he 's one of the best oarsmen 
of London. Couldn't you tell that by his stroke? Since 

Mrs. H has told you that you '11 not be troubled by the 

ice but can get out easily on the Flora, I suppose you 're all 

right now, Miss V ?" " No, I 'm not," said B ; "I 

dout like going in a tiny little cabin on the Flora, where 
there 's scarcely room to move, no bedding and no comforts, 
when I had expected splendid accommodations on the Co- 
lumbian" At this we all taxed poor E with being most 

ungrateful, forgetting how her nerves had been tried by two 
narrow escapes from death in the same week. Jones washed 
the dishes, while Von M and K assisted us in copy- 
ing the lists of the many articles left at the commission 
merchant's. 

Monday, September 19th. 

K 's turn to remain at home and pack; mine to attend 

to the errands, so she coaxed Jones to row me across and 
bring back several articles which she needed at once. 
Scarcely were we well out in the stream when he unbosomed 
himself. " Well, I suppose you 're satisfied with the way in 



37 6 Two Women in the Klondike 

which you and Miss V are leaving your affairs, but I 

kin tell you, you '11 never git nothin' out o' them, from them 

there dudes. Now me and A would 'a' taken charge 

an' 'a' done everything an' the likes o' that, but when I 
found you was a-askin' them dudes, then I just dropped out, 

an' told A to, too. An' if you give them there claims 

to Colonel Q , you '11 never get nothin' out o' them 

neither. He 's windy, that 's what he is ; he kin do a lot o' 
talkin' and the likes o' that, but what kin he do ? But 
them 's the fellows what takes with women," and in this 
strain he continued until we reached the opposite shore. 

After giving Jones the articles desired by K , I stopped 

at the Columbian office to give up our cabins ; then went to 

Mr. W 's, where I paid the required deposit for a lot for 

B and me. 

On leaving West Dawson the sun was shining brilliantly, 
and the canary was singing with a heart of joy at the un- 
usual sight, but an hour later the rain was coming down 
again in torrents, the streets were ankle-deep in mud, and 
too slippery for easy walking. A man stopped me and said, 
" Lady, will you do me a favour ? My sister-in-law has just 
died of typhoid fever. I want to close my shop and put a 
notice on the door, but cannot write." So down I sat on a 
box just inside the door of his shop and wrote down as he 
dictated in broken tones, " Closed for to-day. Death in the 
family." As I heard the sounds of grief from the other side 
of the board wall I inquired if I could be of assistance. 
' ' No, lady, thank you kindly ; it 's all over now. ' ' I met Mr. 

A , who said, " I 've tried many times to cross the river 

to see you but have never been able to hire a boat, and then 
as time passed I was ashamed to go lest you might not re- 
ceive me for being so rude." Had a pleasant chat with 

" Arizona Charlie," who inquired, as they all do, if E 

and I intend to spend the winter here. Went to the Alaska 

Commercial Company, where Mr. S told me he had just 

sold my one hundred and thirty-five dollar robe for one hun- 
dred and twenty-five dollars. Should like to have had more, 
but ten dollars was little enough to pay for the comfort it 



In the New Home at Last 377 

has given me during my month of ownership. All sums re- 
ceived in gold dust this morning, and it is heavy to carry. 

Colonel K invited me to his office, where he and Mr. 

R were most kind in offering to look after our affairs 

during my absence, and I left promising to go with K 

and lunch with them the following day. R followed to 

ask if I would take a letter to his wife. ' ' I don't like to give 
it to you, as I have no postage stamps," said the fellow, who 
had shown himself so generous and hospitable. — " Nonsense! 
let me have it." "And you won't forget it?" he said, 
handing it reluctantly, but in a manner with which I fully 
sympathised, as so many times I have had misgivings as to 
the memory of man. 

I had been in almost every shop in town for butter, but 
there was a corner in it, and none was to be had except at 
exorbitant rates. One thing may be said to the credit of the 
Alaska Commercial Company, that it keeps on the even tenor 
of its way, and, corner or no corner, prices remain the same. 
I asked for butter there — none to be had. Knowing that a 
plentiful supply of everything is always reserved for the em- 
ployees of the company, I appealed to Mr. H . ' ' Could n't 

you order your clerk to sell me just one two-pound tin of 

butter ? " " It 's against the rules, Mrs. H ," said this 

most obliging of men, " but if you are in great need of it, it 
will have to be done." — " Need of it ! why we even ate toast 
without butter for breakfast this morning." Immediately 
the order was given, and a two-pound tin of the precious 
article was speedily handed to me at the old price of one 
dollar a pound, which obtained before the corner. 

With one exception all our labourers had been paid for 
assistance in building our house. That exception was " Si " 

S , who had been sent to the hospital. I had hoped to 

find time to visit him, and take him the money myself, but 
suddenly came face to face with him. " Why, Si, what are 
you doing out in such a storm ? " said I to the man, who 
looked too faint to walk and was as yellow as a piece of 
parchment. " Come into this shop and get your money and 
go straight back to the hospital." — " Oh, I left there this 



37% Two Women in the Klondike 

morning and don't want to go back." — " Why not ? Are n't 
the Sisters kind to you ? They are always so good and pa- 
tient." " Yes, they 're very kind, but there are so many 
sick men there that it's depressing and I 'm going home to 
my nice cabin." "Go at once, then," said I, " and don't 
try walking until the rain ceases and the sun shines again." 
"Si" left, thanking me, but I met him at least a dozen 
times during the remainder of my day in town, and shall ex- 
pect to hear not only of his having a relapse, but of his death. 
The unhealthfulness of Dawson is not responsible for all the 
deaths ; the wilfulness and imprudence of men must also be 
taken into account. 

Stopped to get the heaviest, warmest mittens in town for 

E and for me, as we are told that we shall certainly need 

them in going over the Pass. Was passing the Columbian 
as the last whistle blew and saw a lot of fellows leave the 
steamer. They had been on board to see us off and were 

amused to find me talking quietly with Dr. C on shore. 

" When do you leave, Mrs. H ? " said they. — " On the 

Flora ; am j ust going to her office to get my tickets, ' ' so they 
accompanied me. The second-best cabin was reserved for 
B and for me, as the first best is taken by the man- 
ager and wife. Back to the Alaska Commercial Company, 
to collect my parcels and then to wait for a neighbour oblig- 
ing enough to give me a " lift " over. K and Dr. C 

were both waiting for the same kindly person to turn up. 

M came along. " Well met, Mrs. H . I want to 

go over to say good-bye to you and Miss V . May I go 

in your boat?" — "You certainly should if I had one." 

Shortly after Colonel Q and a friend approached and 

offered to take me across. " May M come if he gives a 

hand with an oar ? " — "Of course, and without," so off we 
went down the muddy banks, slipping, sliding, sinking, 
until we reached the boat, which contained so much water 
that I drew back in alarm. " Widow of a naval officer and 
afraid of the water ! " they laughed. "Naval officers are 
those who really know the dangers of the deep," I replied. 
As we landed the Colonel got back in the boat and pulled 



In the New Home at Last 379 

out again. " Do you mean to say that you are not going to 
land, and that you pulled all the way across just to bring me 
home ? " — " Sure ! I heard that you were waiting for a lift 
and rushed to the rescue, glad to be the first one, ' ' and the 
gallant Colonel was out of hearing before he could receive 
my heartfelt thanks. 

K had finished packing, and was engaged in prepara- 
tions for dinner, but gladly welcomed my addition of moose 
steak, fish, jam, bread, etc. I triumphantly showed her three 
loaves of bread " for fifty cents." She held them up laugh- 
ingly, and said, " Look at Mrs. H 's bargain ! It takes 

all three to make one ordinary-sized loaf." M , as 

usual, prepared his pan of delicious muffins. After dinner 

E , who was anxious to see the advertisements which 

Von M was throwing from our magic lantern on four 

sheets sewed together and hung in the middle of the road 
high in air, went across the river with Jones to sit in a near- 
by shop. I had my first uninterrupted moment for letter- 
writing, and was making the pen fly when there was a rap 
at the door and two new neighbours entered, carrying their 
lanterns and doffing their cowboy hats. The evening passed 
quickly, listening to the stories, both exciting and entertain- 
ing, of their life on the trail. 

" Did you ever hear how many ' true friends ' we miners 
have when some reporter writes home that we have struck 

it rich ? " inquired J . " Here is one of the letters that 

was sent to me : ' Dear Friend i may call you that may i not 

I have been Readding all about you in the Herald and 

thought i would write to you, as you have been in the Gold 
Feelds and aught to be able to know all about the place by 
this time. Well i want to come out there and see if i kin 
git a chance to find anny Gold coz i am just tired of working 
all the time for nothing i have been working in the Restau- 
rant for three years and am sick and tired of it, so I want a 
change, i am all alone in the world and have no one to say 
that i cannot go where i wish so will you please be kind 
enough to write to me and tell me all about the plaice and 
how much it will take to git there and what will be the best 



3 8o 



Two Women in the Klondike 



way to git there, and I will be your Friend fer L,ife. Well 
you will think that i am verry bold to write to you, a strainger 
but i don't think that i am a strainger as we were both born 
in the U. S. and that is enough for me to be your Friend for 
Life and a good Friend at that So will you write to me in 

far away and tell me all the hardships of the country 

and may the Blessing of God be with you forever more 
Hopeing you will answer this i remain your true Friend 

Nellie J . P.S. I hope you will git this letter all right. 

Good-bye.' " 




o 



CHAPTER XXVII 

A SKRIKS OF DISAPPOINTMENTS 

Tuesday, September 20th. 

N opening the door, I was horrified at the sight of ice 
and looked anxiously at the river, inwardly thanking 
the Lord that the stream was still flowing. No sign of our 

steamer, however, which is beginning to be overdue. E 

called out, " Any sign of the Flora ? " and groaned at my 
reply in the negative. " We shall certainly be snowed and 
frozen in," sighed she. " If we were only safely at home 
again ! We shall never be able to get out this winter. Why 
does n't the steamer come ? " We spent the morning pack- 
ing, and were quite ready at twelve, when Mr. Jones came 

to row us across to Colonel K 's for luncheon. It was 

most refreshing to see a house with carpets, windows, cur- 
tains, beds, easy chairs — even stairs to a second story, where 
we went to lay aside our wraps. Life in the Yukon would 
be delightful could one live in such luxury, but when small 
windows with four tiny panes of glass cost from seventeen 
to fifty dollars each, an ordinary broom between ten and 
twenty, but nearer the latter price than the former, a tub 
and wash-board such rarities that there is only one in all 
West Dawson, and the happy possessor has so many friends 
that he is obliged to lend them on certain days at fixed 
intervals — then people become accustomed to doing without 
all luxuries, many comforts, and even necessities. The 
luncheon of " human potatoes," and real underdone roast 
beef was delicious, and we asked permission to go into the 
kitchen to see a real stove once more, instead of the small 

381 



382 Two Women in the Klondike 

Yukon makeshift. Colonel K had invited to meet us 

our fellow-passenger Mr. R , and a Dr. R , who has 

been attending a poor young girl who came here on our 
steamer expecting to make her fortune as trained nurse, as 
she had certificates from three different countries. She had, 
however, immediately fallen a victim to that dread disease, 
typhoid, which is creating such havoc here, and Colonel 

K and Mr. R have combined with Dr. R in their 

efforts to care for this poor, homeless wanderer. The Doctor 
offered his cabin and treatment free, the others paying for 
nurse and all the expenses incurred, not only because she 
had come here in the care of the Alaska Commercial Com- 
pany, but because of their great, warm, tender hearts. 

During luncheon Colonel K made many inquiries 

in regard to our stay in West Dawson. When he found that 
our effects were divided between so many different agents, 
his kind heart finally dictated the offer for which we had 
been longing, — that of accepting the power of attorney for us, 
of taking general supervision, and having our different agents 
report weekly to him, — he to receive all moneys and keep the 
Alaska Commercial Company in San Francisco informed of 

our credit balance. R shook his head, saying, "he is 

simply killing himself now with all the work he has taken 
upon his shoulders ; everyone who leaves the country begs 
him to assume power of attorney until I am always watching 
for the last straw." Here Colonel K interrupted, say- 
ing, " But these ladies have a very valuable cargo which, if 
well managed, should yield them a handsome profit, and 
someone ought to be at the head to take reports from their 
agents. Next year, if they take my advice, they will only 
bring in the money — nothing else — which can be so easily 
invested either in claims that pay five hundred per cent., or 
in lending money at ten per cent, a month." 

As we finished luncheon word came by telephone (there 
are a few in Dawson) that our steamer Flora was on a sand- 
bar and that a drop of ten degrees in the mercury would 
freeze the river and arrest all further navigation." " Is 
there no possible way of getting out, then ? ' ' we cried. 



A Series of Disappointments 383 

"Yes," replied Colonel K , "the Domville sails in an 

hour, and I advise you to try and catch her, as it may be your 
last chance. I can let you have a boat and men to go 
across and get all your luggage." We hastily decided that I 
should go at once on board the Domville, see the purser, look 
at a cabin, and find out the latest possible moment for sail- 
ing, thence to the steamship office to pay for tickets, while 

B purchased eatables and a few necessary things for the 

trip, and by that time the boat and men would be ready to 
take us over for our luggage. We met M taking un- 
usually long strides, and he shouted, " Yeze had better hurry 
and get out by the Domville ; the Flora 's on a sand-bar." 

On board I dashed, with Mr. R helping me across a 

gangplank so long and so narrow that I should never have 
dared attempt to walk it except under such excitement, and 
ran up the steps to the purser's office. A crowd thronged 
around the door, but, with the usual deference shown to 
women by the rough diamonds who handle pick and shovel 
in Alaska, way was made for me. The purser replied in 
answer to my question, " Nothing can be had except at the 
office." The ship was so terribly crowded that there was 
scarcely standing room. Off to the office we rushed, I, far 

ahead, turned to see if Mr. R had been lost. "I 'm 

following," he cried. " Your excitement means single 
file ! " The office was not only packed to repletion, but 
there was also a long line of men waiting in the streets, 
hoping for the best. As I approached the desk, the clerk 

said, " Give A M> and his partner two bunks in the 

six-roomed cabin." The Klondike King, who could have 
chartered a thousand such steamers ! I first asked for a cabin 
for two. " Cabin ! why, my dear madam, there is not even 
a berth ! The men who are now buying tickets are to sleep 
on floors, tables, or anywhere else." — " When will the 
Willie Irving go ? " — " Thursday, if she gets in on time." 

— " Then put Miss V and me down for a cabin on her, 

please." — " There are no cabins, but we can curtain off a 
place for you." — " Anything — rather than be frozen in." 

I then went in search of B , and we gazed at each other 



384 Two Women in the Klondike 

in despair, which became deeper as we saw the Domville 
push out 011 her homeward trip. Kind friends insisted upon 
our remaining over for dinner in order to try and cheer our 
drooping spirits. After doing many commissions and spend- 
ing an hour with Mrs. T , I went back to the Alaska 

Commercial Company, where I met " Arizona Charlie." 
" So you did not get off? But don't worry, there will be 
several more chances yet, and even if you should be frozen 
in, you won't find it so bad." " What is the matter with 
your show ? " I asked ; " it has not been running for some 
time." — " No, we have a contract for four months, but can- 
not fulfil it as we can get no 86° gasoline, and we had such 
an accident trying another kind that the theatre people won't 
let us exhibit again until the electric-light plant is ready." 

We were soon met by Colonel K , Mr. McF , Cap- 
tain B , and Mr. R , who gave us a most charming 

dinner at the Fairview Hotel. At a table near us sat our 

old friend A , dining alone. Next to us were some very 

nice California " boys," and one or two others of the Alaska 
Commercial Company. As the mandolin and guitar gave us 
the strains of an old familiar song, the " boys " took up the 
chorus, which was so well sung and so inspiring that we 
could not refrain from joining in also. We were invited to 
go to the theatre after the dinner, but thought of poor Jones 

waiting to row us back and so went to Mrs. T 's, where 

he had promised to meet us. Her rooms are over the big 

saloon of C , who, although he runs bar and gambling 

tables, is one of the biggest-hearted men in town. 

We found our boatman awaiting us, but looking very 
serious as he said, "It 's the blackest night we 've ever 
had ; there 's a strong wind blowing, an' it 's dangerous to 
cross the river, but I 'm ready to row you over if you 're 

will in' to take the risk." Mrs. T interposed, saying, 

" I would n't cross to-night for a thousand dollars down ; 

one of you could take my room." Here C entered, and, 

hearing the discussion, said, " It 's too big a risk ; you take 
your lives in your hand, and could go to the bottom without 
anyone's being able to find your boat, even, in this darkness. 



A Series of Disappointments 385 

Take my room, and I '11 wrap up in blankets and sleep on 
the floor, just as I 've done for years previous to putting up 
this building," and, in spite of all our protests, orders were 
given, his nice big room prepared for us, and we were duly 
installed. To think of it ! A four-poster, regular mattress, 
sheets, pillows, and pillow-cases. How curious it all seemed, 
after having rolled up in furs and blankets for two months ! 
We could see through the cracks in the floor, however, down 
into the barroom below, and could hear the gamblers calling 
at the roulette-table, red or black, triumphantly or despair- 
ingly as they won or lost. 

Wednesday, September 21st. 

We were up and dressed before nine o'clock, and went to 

thank Mrs. T and say good-bye, but saw through the 

•crack in her board door that she was still soundly sleeping. 
We went to the Alaska Commercial Company, where we 

soon signed the papers giving to Colonel K power of 

attorney for us, purchased some heavy woollen hose, and 
then went back to have breakfast under our own roof. Be- 
fore starting, we met C^ , who reproached us for having 

left so early, as he had ordered breakfast sent to our room, 
only to find that we had gone. We stopped at the grocer's 
to make some purchases and learned that our second box of 
drugs had arrived by the Rideout with the others, but that it 
had been stored in another warehouse from which he had just 
received it. This careless mode of delivering goods makes 
one feel a strong desire to intrust one's valuables only to the 
Alaska Commercial Company or North American Trans- 
portation Company. 

Ivan, who had been a solitary prisoner during our absence 
greeted us with wild bounds of joy. Our house seemed like 
a barn after the civilisation on the other side. We soon had 

a nice breakfast of chops, toast, and potatoes, and then E 

went up the hill with Jones, he carrying boards and logs, 
she, nails and a hammer, with which to build a cache and 
get it finished before the surveyor should arrive to survey 
the land. Before night the cache was finished and marked 
with E 's name, as being paid for to the Lumber and 



386 Two Women in the Klondike 

Land Commissioner. During their absence, " Si " S ar- 
rived to inquire if we had received certain logs and, if so, to- 
get money for the same ; there were eleven of them at a dol- 
lar apiece, for which he promptly received payment and went 
off happy, looking as though the rain-storm had rather bene- 
fited him than otherwise, and as though he had no further 
need of hospitals. Next came my " long-haired labourer " 
to know when he should take our luggage across the river, 
as he could not find out about our steamer. 

E returned from Dawson (whither she had gone again: 

to see about the possibilities of " getting out ") in a most 
excited state. " Neither the Willie Irving nor the Flora is 
in yet, and there is no news of them, so I went on board the 

new steamer of M and S , the Clara, which the} 7- will 

send up the river to-morrow. They have offered us the best 
cabins on board if we decide to-night that we will go with 
them, but we must let them know at once, as everyone who 
wants to go out is frightened, and their office is crowded with 

applicants. Even Mr. and Mrs. F do not dare to wait 

for their own steamer, the Flora. I stopped to consult with 

Colonel K , and he said, ' Go by all means, if you want to 

get out. If you want to stay all winter, we will give you the 
most charming one you have ever had, but if you are deter- 
mined to run for home this may be your last chance,' and he 

wrote you this note," added E , as she handed it to me. 

It read, " Mrs. H , Present. Madam : ' You put ! ' and 

thereby accept the advice of yours without a struggle, 

O. B. K ." — " We must hurry and have dinner, so I can 

go back and tell M of our decision." " Oh, don't go back 

to-night, E ; it is darker than last night, and the cabin 

will surely be reserved until morning." — " No, M said 

I must come myself or else we could not have it ; he has 
promised me the whole ship, and he means what he says." 
" .Why, she 's washed every dish," shouted Jones, who had 

rowed E home ; " would you believe it ! and when she 

first cum here she could n't do nothing. She '11 know how 
to work well foreninst the time that she gets through with, 
this country." 



A Series of Disappointments 387 

Just as we were dining, who should enter but our former 
Jack-of-all-trades, looking as though he had tramped many 
a mile. His beard had grown. He said he had been chop- 
ping trees where fire had been before him and blackened 
trunks and boughs, so that he felt too unclean for the 
presence of ladies, but could go no farther. " Shall I ask 

him to sit down and eat with us ? " said K in French. 

"it is inhuman not to do so." Isaacs understood French, 
and looked such an object of pity that my sympathies were 
aroused as well as E 's, so that the cordiality of our in- 
vitation soon overcame his scruples, and he thoroughly en- 
joyed the beefsteak, which he said was the first he had 
tasted in weeks. He was too fatigued to remain long after 
dinner, but begged to be allowed to come and assist us in the 

morning. Jones rowed E across the river to secure our 

cabin, and pay a deposit of twenty dollars. K and Von 

M spent the evening with me. The latter having se- 
cured another " ad" at thirty dollars a week, felt that the 
magic lantern was more than paying for itself. He strongly 
advised our leaving at once by the Clara, as the Flora, if on 
a sand-bar, might not be able to make another trip, adding 
that Mr. F — , the owner, feared to wait longer, and intended 
to take his wife on the Clara. Just then another mouse ran 

close to my chair. When E discovered that these little 

creatures made my life miserable, he began to whittle, and 
soon had made from three sticks of wood a most ingenious 

mouse-trap, for which I was most grateful. When E 

returned the die was cast, our deposit made, and we were 
to be ready to sail the following day at noon on the Clara. 

Thursday, September 22d. 
On opening the cabin door early this morning, what was 
my surprise to see the ground all white and the snow falling 

heavily. A groan from E informed me that from her 

cot she also had caught a glimpse of the white mantle. 
" Now it is hopeless," she cried, " and we shall not be able 
to get out this winter. A direful death was predicted for 
me, and the prophecy will surely be fulfilled if the ice shuts 



$88 Two Women in the Klondike 

us in. We have received assurances, however, from different 
ones," said I, "that the river will flow for several weeks 
yet. We had better make an early start, and be on the 
Dawson side in plenty of time to attend to last commissions." 

Hardly were we dressed when Jerry W appeared, say- 

ing, " Well, ladies, I can't let you go off without telling you 
what splendid property you have on Bear Creek. It is now 
considered finer than anything yet discovered." " Oh, Mr. 

W do let me have that gold you panned out from there ; 

I '11 give you any price you like to ask," said I. "It 's 
awfully hard to refuse you, but it 's all I 've got, and if I can 
get out it will sell my claim for me at a high figure." — " But 
you won't get out, and you '11 go to Bear Creek many more 
times." — " If I were sure of that, you might have it and 
welcome, but I just wanted to tell you ladies not to sell even 
a half-interest for less than twenty thousand, unprospected 
as your land is, because the moment it is developed it will 
probably be worth at least ten times that." The long-haired 
neighbour then came to nail up our boxes ; our trunks were 
too large and unwieldy to be packed over the Pass, and were 
to be left behind, particularly as we had been offered fifty 
dollars each therefor, anything with lock and key being 
valuable. Ivan, who had heard many offers from those who 
wished to care for him during the winter, and an offer of a 
thousand dollars cash for him, seemed to realise that we were 
about to depart. The intelligent beast began dragging his 
blankets across the floor and, as we watched him, put them 
in a large telescope bag, then got into the bag and seated 
himself upon the blankets, seemingly content that his pre- 
parations were made. It was such an unusal thing for a 
dog to do that I immediately got my Kodak and took a 
picture of him, in order to have proof that my story was not 
a Yukon fable. 

The neighbours came in to lend a hand, and consoled 

B by assuring her that the mercury would have to be 

ten degrees lower than at present before the river would 
freeze over. K and Von M had the honour of row- 
ing us across, while two other neighbours took over our 



A Series of Disappointments 389 

boxes and bags in their big boat. We boarded the Clara 
and asked if we had a few moments to spare. ' ' Oh, she may 
not go out until four or five o'clock," said the Captain, 
" and then it will be so late that we had better wait until 

morning." E started off to the office of the owner to 

discover the cause of the delay, while I went to Colonel 

K 's to deliver to him the keys of the house and written 

instructions concerning everything left therein. Just then 
we saw the Flora, which has made the trip safely many times, 
coming in, and we were advised by several to change to her, 
in preference to going on a steamer that has never been to 
the White Horse, with a captain who has the channel yet to 
learn, particularly as the river is very low — many rafts, even, 
being on sand-bars. Some old captains, however, prefer low 
water, saying that the channel shows so much more distinctly. 
As I entered the Alaska Commercial Company's, George ap- 
proached me with another man to be paid for logs. " Why, 
George, I have paid already for more logs than there are in 

the cabin ; our affairs are now in the hands of Colonel K , 

who will settle with this man if his claim be just." " You 
can't go off without paying me," said the man in a brutal 
way; " I '11 attach your luggage." " Come up-stairs," said 
I, in my most freezing manner. 

I saw that Colonel K was busily engaged with several 

men, so began to retreat, but the gallant Colonel insisted 
upon my entering aud seating myself. George was told to 
remain outside. Two men with enormously rich claims, 
which will probably give them handsome fortunes next year, 
had used up all their means in preparing their land for the 
winter's work, and had left men to develop them. They 
were anxious to "go out" and remain until the spring 
clean-up, but were land-poor, and had not the wherewithal. 
They had applied, as does everyone, to the kindly, generous- 
hearted Colonel, who, as is well known, is ever ready to lend 
a helping hand to all in distress, much to the auxiety of those 
who surround him, as they fear that not only his purse but 
his time will be taxed to such a degree as to interfere with 
his personal duties. In this case, the men did not plead in 



39° Two Women in the Klondike 

vain. Then the Colonel said, ''And now, Mrs. H , 

what can I do for you this morning ? " "I am in trouble 
again, Colonel, and, as you hold my power of attorney, I 
wanted to turn the man over to you, but he won't listen to 
it. We counted the logs in our house yesterday, and there 
are not as many logs in the entire cabin as this additional 
number would make." — " Where is the man who now wishes 
to impose upon you ? " — " Outside the door with the over- 
seer." Up sprang the quick, wiry Colonel. The two men 
entered, doffing their hats. " Be seated," said the Colonel, 
motioning to two chairs facing him ; he then began a series 
of cross-questioning worthy of the sharpest attorney, quick 
and to the point, so that the men had no time to consult. In 
five minutes he said, " I shall go over myself and count the 
logs in that cabin to-morrow morning ; and woe to the man 
who has tried to impose on these two ladies, as their affairs 
are now in my hands, and if anyone has dared to ' do them ' 
he will have to answer to me." " And to me, too," said 
George, " for they treated me handsome, like I was a gentle- 
man, and I ain't a-goin' to see them done, neither." " I 
only want what 's mine," said Pat, " and would n't cheat 
them out of a penny, for they 've been kind to all o' us 
boys." 

Just then K came in and said, " The Collector of Cus- 
toms tells me that they have no engineer for the Clara and 
that she is not going out to-day, as half of the crew are miss- 
ing; all our luggage is on board, but we '11 never get away." 

— ' ' Don' t worry, Miss V . Will you leave this to me also ? 

I '11 send for the owner, find out exactly how matters stand, 
and, in case it seems wise, will have all your goods and 

chattels transferred to the Flora." B breathed a sigh 

of relief, and said, " Then if there is nothing else for me to 
do, I can accept an invitation to luncheon which I have par- 
tially refused, as I 'm simply starving," and off she went, 
grateful as are. all others who never apply in vain for advice 
or assistance to this kindest of men. " And now, Mrs. 

H , please make a few explanations in regard to these 

instructions, and then you must take your last luncheon 



A Series of Disappointments 39 1 

with me at the Hoffman House, which is quite close at 
hand." Business was soon finished, and off we started, fol- 
lowed by the faithful Ivan, who remained quietly at my feet 
during the repast. Among the celebrities who were lunch- 
ing there was " Nigger Jim," who looked very handsome in 
his rich garb of fur, which covered him from ears to heels. 
It was the first time I had seen him with a coat on, as he 
prefers shirt-sleeves even at the theatre and at a dance. 

After luncheon the Colonel invited me back to the office, 

sent for M , and interviewed him in regard to the Clai'a. 

" I had an engineer last night," said M , " and we were 

all ready to start, but the man got drunk, so I discharged 
him on the spot, as I would not risk the lives of passengers 
and crew by taking out a fellow who drinks. However, I 
have many applicants for the position, and shall surely have 
a good man in a few hours." — " And your captain, has he 

ever made the trip before ? " " No," said M , " but we 

have the best pilot who ever navigated, and with our strong 
engines are sure to reach White Horse before any other 
steamer." — " Well, when you get your engineer, come back 

and let me know who he is." As M left I thanked the 

good Colonel most heartily, and told him that as there was 
evidently no chance of our getting away until the following 
day, he must come and dine with us at the Fairview, where 
we should spend the night, and then went off, followed by 
Ivan, to attend to final commissions. 

Soon there came a message from Colonel K , saying, 

" Have made inquiries, and find that the Flora has more 
chances of accomplishing the trip than has the Clara, so 

better change at once." K and I divided duties — I to 

purchase tickets, go to steamer and select room, and see that 
our satchels were placed as we wanted them, she to go to 
the office of the Clara to have deposit refunded, as they had 
not kept their contract of sailing on the 22d. I saw the wife 
of the captain of the Flora, who showed me a small cabin 
with two berths, but the best on board. The door was of 
boards nailed together, the hook a twisted screw, the bunks 
of tightly stretched canvas, of canvas also the wall which 



392 Two Women in the Klondike 

separated us from the extremely narrow deck ; the only 
article of furniture was a box standing on end holding a tin 
basin. There was no pitcher, no glass, no mirror, neither 
soap nor towels — absolutely nothing but the tin basin and 
the places in which to throw our blankets and pillows. 
Comfortless, to be sure, but safe — the one steamer which is 
now to be depended upon. Fare one hundred and twenty 
dollars to the end of the route, and all meals two dollars 
extra, while upon the Clara the fare was one hundred dol- 
lars, and meals one dollar each. 

At 7.30 Colonel K came for dinner ; at the same time 

B returned, saying, " M refuses to return the de- 
posit ; says he has fitted up a room with mattresses, sheets, 
and pillow-cases — unknown luxuries in steamer travel in 
this part of the world — has laid in a supply of delicacies just 
for us, and that we promised to go with him, but ouly 
changed our minds when the Flora came in. I told him his 
contract had first been broken by not sailing at the appointed 
time, and now he holds us to our agreement, and the lug- 
gage is still on board his boat, which is to start at daybreak 

in the morning." Colonel K was at once all energy. 

" Ring up No. — on the telephone," he said to the man 

at the office. ' ' Tell to come to the 'phone. Go at once 

to M , the owner of the Clara, and tell him to deliver to 

you immediately all the luggage belonging to the two ladies, 
take them to my storehouse, and make a list of them, bring 
it here to see if it be correct, and then put the things on 
board the Flora early to-morrow morning," and the Colonel 
dropped the 'phone, turned to us, and changed the subject. 

K manifested the most lively gratitude, and the deepest 

regret that she was dining out and. could not join us. I thor- 
oughly enjoyed listening to the Colonel's wonderful experi- 
ences, which presented the many sides of his character most 
vividly. Justice, enormous will-power, and strong individual- 
ity predominated over all else. The grandest courage in try- 
ing moments was manifested last year when famine stared the 
many in the face, and he alone quelled the riot when no one 
else dared to face the anger of the mob. Filled with a keen 



^K * ""^ 


K 1 \m 

Wok ■ 

'HP JB 

W « IS PI 




K'iu-. - £&**«*» 


§ i ** f Inil' 

K 

1 f ■ 



394 Two Women in the Klondike 

sense of justice, the men knew that he would patiently listen 
to their grievances, and that their wrongs would be righted, 
so they were willing to abide by his decision, whether for or 
against them. Many a man had he helped, many a devoted 
slave had he, but not from him did I learn all this, as he was 
one who let not his left hand know the doings of his right, 
and if one expressed admiration for his splendid qualities, he 
would laugh him to scorn, and tell of a side of his nature 
which was filled with " deviltry, " as he expressed it. Stories 
of home-life also were told and his fondness for music was 
spoken of, and this reminds me that whenever he entered the 
dining-room of the Fairview the little orchestra always played 
Ben Bolt. 

The Colonel would accept no praise for the wonderful way 
in which he has developed the interests of the Alaska Com- 
mercial Company in Dawson ; said he was but an instrument 
in the hands of men who are at the head of a grand scheme, 
and told of their deeds of generosity and kindness until I 
confessed shame at the criticisms with which the first part 
of my journal was filled. " Yes," said he, " you should be 
ashamed. Can you not recognise the grandeur of the 
pioneers? — their schemes to develop new countries, to aid 
the miner, to provide him with food even when a corner in 
the market would allow them to ask enormous prices ? 
Their charges never vary, so that the miners feel that they 
are to be depended upon under any and all circumstances. 
You may have met with some unfaithful servants, but why 
should you criticise the whole, of which you know so little ? 
Oh, woman, woman, why can you not be noble and gener- 
ous ? " " You make me feel like wiping out many pages," 
said I, ' ' but still, mine is only a journal of daily events, faith- 
fully and truly recorded." " Yes, but should you not regret 
it if your statements caused others to doubt the efficiency of 
so noble a company ? And now, madam," said the Colonel, 
' ' it is ten o'clock. I must work all night, and see the Sarah 
started for St. Michaels early to-morrow morning. I shall 
be too busy for words, so it is better to say good-bye now 
and wish you bon voyage. I am only sorry that we did not 



A Series of Disappointments 395 

meet when you first arrived, so that I might have saved you 
from impositions, and have arranged your affairs in such a 
way that your stay would have been a pleasure instead of 
being filled with much anxiety as it seems to have been." 
With this the noble fellow departed, and I saw him no more. 
The manager of the hotel came to me, saying, " One of 

your former neighbours, Mr. O , is here ill with typhoid 

fever. He is quite alone, but recognised your voice and 
wants to know if you won't stop and speak to him." I 
hastened to comply with his request, and found the poor 
fellow burning with fever, and looking very thin and wan. 
There was absolutely nothing to be done for him, except to 
try and cheer him up a bit, wmich I did until the fear of 
tiring him sent me to my room — the best in the hotel, but 
tiny and heated by a pipe that went through the hall. Al- 
though the windows had been ordered months before, they 
had never arrived, so a sheet was tacked up to keep out the 
air ; there was just room enough for a home-made bedstead, 
with a real mattress, and although it was one which my 
maid at home might have scorned, it seemed luxurious to 
me, as I slipped in between sheets once more instead of roll- 
ing up in blankets. How this kind of life teaches one to 
appreciate even the commonest comforts of home, and } r et 
how stuffy and uncomfortable will seem overheated rooms 
after such an abundance of pure air. As I turned to blow 
out the candle, I stopped to admire the ingenuity of the 
candlestick, a flat piece ot wood long enough to hold a cake 
of soap at one end, on the other three long nails sufficiently 
separated to admit of a candle being slipped in between. 
On the table was a tin basin, but no pitcher — that and a 
slop-bucket, and a few pegs in the wooden wall completed 
the furnishings except for the unusual luxury of a carpet 
and curtains. One puff, the light was out, and then 
oblivion. 



CHAPTER XXVIII 



ADIEU TO DAWSON 



r 



Friday, September 23d. 
ALLED at seven, and after dressing went into E- 



V^ room to make plans for the day and we divided duties 
as usual. I went to the warehouse at the other end of town, 
and found not only all our goods and chattels, but also the 

protege of Colonel K with the list for me to examine. 

Nothing was missing, so with a line of thanks to our good 
friend, whom I would not disturb, as he was still engrossed 
in trying to clear the Sarah, I started for the office of the 
Crown Agent, who, fortunately, had arrived at an early 
hour. When he heard that our land had not only been 
" jumped " but the cache torn down, he said, " The stakes 
will still be there, as it is a six-months' offence to pull them 
out." — " No, even the stakes are gone." — " Impossible ! 
Don't you worry. I '11 go to-morrow and find out all about 
it, and you may rest assured that your rights will be pro- 
tected." So, thanking him, and receiving best wishes for a 
prosperous trip, I went to the post-office, as a home mail bad 
recently arrived. " Not ready for distribution," said the 
postmaster as he opened the door in answer to my repeated 
knocks. " But my steamer goes in an hour, and it would 
be cruel to leave without letters from home." " We '11 see 
what we can do, if you have time to return in half an hour." 
I glanced about the office which had been transformed since 
the arrival of this new and energetic postmaster. Many 
more boxes had been put up, instead of having just a few 

396 



Adieu to Dawson 397 

against the wall as formerly, leaving the large room to be 
crowded with men. 

Having had some friendly hints, I purchased bread, but- 
ter, sardines, and jam, and other delicacies. The flannels 
which we had brought with us were not nearly heavy enough 
for a climb over the Pass. The articles desired had been re- 
ceived by the Alaska Commercial Company, but as so many 
of their steamers had come into port with heavy cargoes, the 
warehouses had been filled to overflowing. For three days 
the obliging men had been searching for the box containing 
the goods we were in need of, but, as the last moments drew 
near and we dared not wait longer, we bought men's flannels 
instead. Back to the post-office, accompanied by " Arizona 
Charlie," where I found a dozen letters. " Did you get any 
for me?" said he. — "No; unfortunately they had only 
reached the H's, so I could not get all of mine, and not even 

one for Miss V ." — " I 'm going to the steamer to see 

you off, and hope you '11 come back next year." We were 

joined by Von M , who said, " The Clara has already 

gone. Don't you wish you 'd had the first start ? " — " No, 
for we are sure to pass her. ' ' 

Down on the dock we were joined by neighbours, acquaint- 
ances, and friends, all but the busy Colonel K , we who 

had arrived strangers and friendless, with only one to meet 

us. Mr. W was among the many who turned up to see 

us off. I immediately began another attack. " 1£ you would 
sell me just a little of that beautiful Bear Creek gold." 

" Why can't you let her have a little ? " said Von M . 

" Because I may go out by the next steamer myself if I can 
make it, and should then need it ; there 's nobody else I 'd 

rather give it to. Captain B has been begging for it for 

a week, as he has a claim on the other side." Others 
crowded in w T ith their good wishes. The last moment had 

come, when W appeared, saying, " Well, I 've concluded 

to let you have it upon condition that you '11 advertise half 
my interest for sale, so that I can get money enough to work 
it in fine style." — " Gladly, and send you and your wife 
each a copy of the paper or papers," and with a sigh of 



39 8 Two Women in the Klondike 

pleasure I accepted the small paper of the prettiest gold I 
have ever seen — but perhaps I am prejudiced. 

W , Jones, and other friends raised their hats as the 

whistle blew for the last time, the steamer slowly moved from 
her wharf, and this was the last of Dawson and of some of 
the most unusual experiences women could have. There 

were tears in K 's eyes, and my own felt misty as I 

thought of the kind, good fellows obliged to remain through 
the winter, shut in by ice and snow from all communication 
with home and loved ones, though longing to be on the 
homeward-bound steamer. Some had to stay to protect their 
interests, others to work their claims, many were ashamed 
to leave without having made their pile, and were daily 
growing poorer, and so we were carrying back letters for 
them filled with hope of what another year might bring, and 
hiding from their families their trials and privations. Daw- 
son was soon far in the distance, although the usual late 
passenger had called us back that he might scramble on 
board. It took us a long while to stow three telescope bags 
into a place where there was scarcely space for one, and to 
spread out our blankets on the narrow bunks. Finally we 
were at liberty to sit on the bench outside the door and watch 
the magnificent scenery with mountains on either side. The 
captain very kindly asked us into the pilot-house, where we 
enjoyed the superb view until dinner-time, 6 p.m. We went 

down with Mr. F and his fascinating little wife. Hash 

was the only hot dish ; there were one or two kinds of 
tinned meats, stewed apples, and a dry cake. Two dollars 

each ! K and I concluded that the box of delicacies 

we had with us would provide food quite as nourishing, 
and more palatable — so decided not to patronise the table 
again. 

After dinner I had an interesting conversation with a fel- 
low passenger, who, after a thorough survey of this part of 
the world, has concluded that the mines in Australia are far 
superior. While admiring Ivan he inquired if I had ever 
seen the Australian dog. " You would like him, as you 
care for big dogs ; he is larger than the Great Dane, in shape 



Adieu to Dawson 399 

like a greyhound, and is trained to kill the kangaroo. He 
always springs at the throat. A man not far from where I 
was ranching went out to visit one of his mines, taking his 
dog with him. She had recently had pups, and must have 
felt some uneasiness about them, for she deserted her master, 
fortunately, and went back. On his return much later, he 
found three blacks lying in front of his cabin dead, each 
with his throat torn. They had come to attack and steal, 
noticing that he had taken the dog with him on his depart- 
ure, but were surprised and killed before they had had time 
to murder wife or child, or even to beat a retreat." 

Saturday, September 24th. 
What luck that we did not go on the Clara ! She is now 
far behind us on a sand-bar, and we are mentally thanking 

good Colonel K for his advice. Our captain is chuckling 

over having passed her, and told the story in this way : "I 
saw the Clara in shoal water, moving slowly and evidently 
waiting for me to pass so as to follow in my wake, so what 
did I do but go round the island and take another channel, 
and she, in trying to get out, went high and dry on the bar." 
" Do you never stop to tow off a boat in that condition ? " 
" Not much ! that belongs to a rival firm and our business is 
to beat her by just as many hours as possible." The next 
event was being signalled for, by a large scow. As we ap- 
proached we saw nine bunks in rows of three on a side, a long 
table, at which sat at least a dozen men at dinner, of which 
the most prominent dish was one of beans. " What do you 
want? " shouted the captain. " Want to give you a pas- 
senger," so we tied up alongside. A man scrambled on 
board, and off we started again, leaving behind us this scow 
belonging to the Arctic Express Company. This company, 
we learned from the Klondike Nugget, " is a British one 
with President Battenbury of the Ora, Flora, and Nora line 
of steamboats at its head. It is engaged in perfecting a plan 
of building provision cabins all along the Yukon River and 
upper lakes, with relays of dog teams all the way. It is also 
planned to provide a mail service twice a month." If this 



400 Two Women in the Klondike 

plan is carried out, it will be of inestimable benefit to the 
Klondike region during the coming winter. 

Towards evening a scow passed and was stopped in order 
to send off one of our passengers in her. The story told was 
that he had come on board intoxicated, thinking that he was 
bound for St. Michaels. When he recovered and found him- 
self going in the opposite direction there was a scene, and he 
wanted to get off at the first landing-place, but his story was 
regarded as a Yukon fable, and rather than give him a lift 
of forty or fifty miles, and land him at the station which he 
was desirous of reaching, they decided to insure his return 
to Dawson by placing him in special charge of the captain 
of the scow, who called out as we were leaving, " We '11 
treat him right. We '11 feed him well." We also stopped 
twice during the day to land passengers on shores which 
looked most forbidding and inhospitable. Two mounted 
police came on board from the Stewart River station to see 
if some commissions had been attended to. There was the 
most magnificent of pyrotechnical effects, which would have 
been beautiful to watch had it not been so dangerous as to 
drive us all into our cabins at 8 p.m. The cinders from the 
funnel fell in showers. Poor Ivan, who had been lifted by 
four men onto the upper deck (as he seemed to me so much 
in the way on the narrow corridor where we all sat) had 
trembled all day at the rifle shots, as the passengers aimed 
at ducks that were to be seen in great numbers ; had started 
at the sound of the whistle ; had shivered with the cold, and 
now presented a pitiable appearance as many of the sparks 
fell upon him, so the men were called and he was lifted down 
again. 

Some men near by were telling stories. W T , of Seattle, 

contributed this : "A boy's mother heard that he had been 
swearing. When she accused him of it, he said, in a fit of 
indignation, 'Who told you?' 'Oh, a little bird.' The 
boy thought for an instant, and then cried, ' I '11 bet it was 

one of them d d sparrows.' " This reminded me of a 

child at the Mare Island Navy Yard. The father was ex- 
ecutive officer of the , and the boy often accompanied 



402 Two Women in the Klondike 

him on board. He had taken a great fancy to a German 
sailor whom he always sought and remained with until the 

last possible moment. One morning as Master B was 

planning to go on board his mother interfered with his 
pleasure by keeping him at home to have his head sham- 
pooed. The child's head was over the basin as he submitted 
to the operation with poor grace ; finally the little fellow 
could bear it no longer, and cried out, " When they do any- 
thing to my German sailor that he don't like, he just calls on 

the Lord — an' he ain't prayin' neither," said B stoutly, 

looking his mother squarely in the eyes, to see how she 
would take it, and whether he would dare do the same. 

' You let me hear you calling on the Lord, my boy, when 
you are not praying, and you shall never see your German 
sailor again." So B decided then and there not to imi- 
tate in one respect the man whom he so greatly admired. 

Sunday, September 25th. 
We peeped out this morning, but finding the decks covered 
thickly with cinders, and sparks flying in all directions, de- 
cided that it was much better to lie in our bunks and write, 
as there was not room to sit in the cabin and do so. The 
door was left slightly ajar, so that we might get the magnifi- 
cent view yet not be seen. The mountains became more 
grand, the banks more brilliant. Here and there patches 
of red mingled with green and made the scene variegated 
and a delight to the eye. We heard the whistle of a steamer, 
which was high and dry on a sand-bar. The passengers said 
that they were from Vancouver with a cargo of cattle and 
sheep which they declared had been turned ashore to graze 
for a while — a story which seemed to us most highly improb- 
able. Shortly after we heard talk of the Willie Irving in the 
distance, so concluded to dress and get pictures of her, and 
were just in time for a couple of shots ; she was pushing a 
scow and had been on a sand-bar for two days. Our pas- 
sengers sang, 

" We 've been to Dawson City, 

Oh what a pity 

That we 've left it behind." 



Adieu to Dawson 4°3 

The next point of interest was a sailboat stranded on the 
beach and abandoned. We also passed a good-sized steam- 
launch, and although the only sign of habitation on shore 
was a tent, we saw two women, nattily garbed in golf cos- 
tume, tramping along the bank. A mile or two farther on 
a Peterboro' canoe approached, the occupant signalling us. 

We stopped, as he came alongside, asked, for Mr. F , had 

his interview, and departed. 

The mountains on either side are becoming higher, some 
of them snow-topped. Now that we have grown accustomed 
to such close quarters, and such tiny rooms, the trip would 
be ideal were it not for the constant shower of cinders which 
penetrate even the cabins. A carpenter has been in and put 
up three small shelves for us and taken out the box, which 
was only large enough to hold the basin and a tin cup of 
water. After dinner a kind fellow passenger loaned us the 
canvas from his bunk to put up over our heads as an awn- 
ing. This protected us from cinders, and we were joined by 

Mr. and Mrs. F and one or two others, who sat spinning 

yarns until quite late. Ivan narrowly escaped a fall over- 
board, and this evoked a story of a traveller whose pet dog 
had fallen into the water. He begged the captain to stop and 
pick him up, but the captain replied that he could not, ex- 
cept to save human life. ' ' Then save mine, ' ' said the owner 
of the dog as he sprang over and swam to him. 

Monday, September 26th. 
At seven we tied up to a bank for wood, but our stay there 
was short, as the wood was all green. At 8.30 tied up again, 
and I took a number of snap-shots of some of the passengers 
as they felled trees to supply us with fuel for the remainder of 
the trip to Fort Selkirk, which is less than forty miles dis- 
tant. The passengers returned, bringing beautiful leaves of 
variegated colours that grow along the edge of the bank. 
Poplar trees are very abundant ; also birch. The felled trees 
soon covered the lower deck, the whistle blew " all aboard," 
and we were off. The men then began sawing the wood into 
proper lengths for the mouth of the ever yawning furnace. 



404 Two Women in the Klondike 

The purser kindly offered E— — his room and a desk at 
which to write. After a while she came to me saying, 
" Read this letter ; it will explain itself. I found out about 
it last night. It really ought to be headed the ' Parrot 

Mystery.' " 

' ' On board the ' Fi,ora. ' 

" Dear Colonel K : 

" I have just discovered something in connection with our 
affairs which I think you would like to know. About a 

fortnight before our departure from Dawson Mr. took 

our parrot, to have it raffled. The following day, he told 

me the parrot had died. Both he and related how they 

had taken it out of the cage and nursed and petted it until 
it breathed its last. I asked to see the bird, but was told 

it had been thrown away. A week later, as started to 

row me across the Yukon, he was hailed by a man who 
asked for ' a lift.' This passenger asked what had become 

of the parrot, saying that he missed it. assured him 

that it had died within twenty-four hours of its removal from 
West Dawson. The man denied this, saying it was the 
liveliest bird for a dead bird he had ever seen. One of the 
passengers on this boat now tells me that the parrot did not 

die ; that it was a put-up job between and , who 

wished to have the bird for Mrs. . Our fellow-passenger 

overheard a conversation between these two men and insisted 
upon an explanation. The parrot was perfectly well when 
it left our tent and undoubtedly is now in the land of the 
living. We valued him at fifty dollars. It seems incredible 

that , who was always so kind, would have attempted to 

cheat us in such a manner, but here are the proofs, and if 
you can find out anything about it, we should be greatly in- 
debted. The empty cage was taken to M and S 's 

store a couple of days before we left. 

' ' Very sincerely, 

" E V ." 

The next steamer passed was the John C. Barr y tied up 
some miles below Fort Selkirk, taking on board cattle. On 



Adieu to Dawson 4°5 

we went, admiring the beautiful rocks, the walls of volcanic 
formation, the red patches which we were told was very fine 
moss ; at length a promontory of rocks came into view, with 
a head of the same material so clearly defined that general 
attention was at once attracted to it. It had been reclining 
there for ages, and will probably be visible to future genera- 
tions who may make this trip when all on board this little 
steamer shall have passed away. Before dinner we saw the 
Ora in the distance tied to a bank and evidently awaiting 
us. We were soon alongside only to hear the sad news that 
our captain, purser, and the most obliging of stewards had 
orders to exchange with those on the Oi r a. Our second 
captain was much disgruntled at having his crew broken up 
and his plans changed, and expressed himself accordingly. 

We had news that the Domville was " stuck on a bar" 
fifteen miles beyond Selkirk. Great was the rejoicing, not 
because she was in hard luck, but that we should pass her 
in all probability. Towards dusk, we tied up at the famous 
Fort Selkirk, too late for photographing, and the banks were 
so steep that climbing them was an obstacle we did not care 
to surmount, although sorely tempted to do so, when we 
saw the good missionary and his wife, who had been our 
fellow passengers from San Francisco. Their invitation to 
land was most cordial, but the time was so short that we 
contented ourselves with chatting from steamer deck to 
shore. The moon, which we had heretofore seen only peep- 
ing for a short while nightly above the mountain-tops, now 
came forth in full glory and presented a view of what ap- 
peared to be most perfect silhouettes of the hundred or more 
inhabitants on the banks, mingled with some fine specimens 
of Canadian officials and soldiers ; but the aurora borealis, 
which was so often visible from our home in West Dawson, 
has not during this trip favoured us with its beautiful light. 
Great flocks of crane flew high above our heads, southward 
bound. 

' There 's something for you to get a shot at," said to me 
early in the afternoon the tall passenger who had been so 
nearly left behind at Dawson, as he pointed to an enormous 



406 Two Women in the Klondike 

drove of cattle grazing on the side of a mountain. Thank- 
ing him, I touched the button, although the sun was in the 
wrong direction. We were soon engaged in conversation. 
He had been one of the fortunate ones in the land of gold ; 
had not been " out" for four years; had a few hundred 
thousands in gold dust with him, and was leaving many fine 
claims to which he must return in the spring. " I never 
thought one could enjoy life so much," said he, " as I did 
on my last return home, and now, after another four years in 
the mines, I am expecting the same pleasures again. I went 
to Alaska ten years ago, and am one of the pioneers. At 
that time there was not one woman in the country." Here 
the Virginian was called away by some of the men with 
whom he seemed to be most popular. " Well, how d' yer 
like Bill ? " called out another passenger. " Did you ever 
read that long article in the paper about him, a-callin' him 
a Klondike King ? No ? Want ter see it ? I been makin' 
a collection to see how many Klondike Kings we 've got, an' 
I have stories about fifty of 'em with me. I '11 go an' get 
yer the one about him," and he soon returned with the 
following : 

" MINING KING OF ALASKA 

" HOW BII.lv L AND HIS CLAIM NO. — PANNED OUT IN 

THE NEW EL DORADO 

"A Typical Story by a Newspaper Correspondent to the Cincinnati 
Post, January 30, 1898, showing the Turns of Fortune's Wheel in 
a Gold Camp. 

" Dawson, Yukon River, N. W. T., 

" NOV. 30, 1897, 6,50 A.M. 

" There is an El Dorado King snoring peacefully within 
six feet of me. He occupies the far side of my cabin bed, 
from which I have just arisen, and, for aught I know, he is 
dreaming of steam-yachts, Delmonico suppers, and gifts to 

orphan asylums. My friend, Bill L , the unconscious 

object of these remarks, is a six-footer from H , West 

Virginia. He entered the world under somewhat discourag- 
ing circumstances in the year i860. His father was by no 



408 Two Women in the Klondike 

means a wealthy man, owning a small farm, and Bill, to- 
gether with his six brothers, began early to hustle for a 
living. Most of the boys drifted West, and entered various 
pursuits. Bill tried farming in Kansas, but finally drifted 
north, using the polar star as his guide to fortune. 

" In the spring of 1889 he entered the Yukon country, 
boating down to Forty Mile Creek, where I found him work- 
ing on a claim a few months later. In the summer of 1890, 

I again visited Forty Mile, and discovered L sluicing 

an unprofitable claim. He accepted an offer from me to 
pack one hundred pounds of provisions across the Tanana 
River at fifteen dollars per day, and thus became a member 
of the Leslie expedition. There was something about 

L 's grit that struck me most favourably, and after we 

had parted company through the expiration of our agree- 
ment, I aways kept him in mind. His determination to win 
a fortune out of the Northlands was the most patent char- 
acteristic of the man, and grimly he stuck by his job. 

" After I left Alaska, L, kept on mining, showing con- 
siderable judgment in selecting profitable ground. Twice 
he made small strikes on Miller Creek and Birch Creek, tak- 
ing out a few thousand dollars surplus cash each time, which 
he carried back to West Virginia and salted down in farm 
mortgages, returning again to the Yukon. 

" The subject of this sketch, as the professional biographers 
say, did not come to Klondike with the first rush, although 
near by at other diggings. He discredited the fabulous 
stories that flew upon the winds from camp to camp, and 
stuck to his job of sluicing some moderately good ground. 
But, finally, the reports came too thick and fast to be doubted 
longer and Bill made an off hand decision. Dropping his 
pick where he had been working, he rushed into his cabin, 
seized a few necessary articles of food and apparel, and bolted 
down the gulch for the Yukon, leaving behind all his other 
property, mining claim, cabin, cooking utensils, tools, rifle, 
and a big stock of provisions, none of which he has seen 
again to this day. Jumping into a skiff he rowed furiously 
down the river, arriving in Dawson April, 1897. He quickly 



Adieu to Dawson 



409 



legged it out to the gulch and began surveying the ground. 
Other people had been before him in staking off the best 
territory, and Bill's chances were slim. But he was not to 
be downed easily. Cast- 
ing his experienced eye 
over El Dorado Creek, a 
branch of the Klondike, 
he decided to make or mtm 
break by the biggest Kg 
gamble of his life. ^. 

" Turning to the own- 
ers of claim No. — , and jHH 
scouting the unlucky 
number, he boldly offered 
thirty-one thousand two 
hundred and fifty dollars 
for a three-eighths inter- 
est in the five-hundred- SH 
foot strip of ground. The 
offer, which seemed to be 
a phenomenally large ^-fr- 
olic, was eagerly snapped |^B 
up and Bill found himself 
installed in three-eighths l* 
possession with Messrs. HH 

C , owning one-eighth, 

G , two-eighths, 

M , one-eighth, and 

T , one-eighth. As 

Bill had loaned out all of his ready money, and was only 
worth at best ten thousand dollars, he was obliged to run in 
debt for his entire interest, promising to pay from the proceeds 
of the claim when he struck bed-rock. His partners consid- 
ered him the best man to operate the claim, and put everything 
into his hands as superintendent at twenty dollars a day. 
And now Bill did some of the finest hustling of his life. Hav- 
ing only sixty days in which to pay for his interest, he rushed 
work night and day, labouring in the drift-hole with em- 




A KLONDIKE KING. 



4io Two Women in the Klondike 

ployees and shovelling out pay-dirt with frantic energy. ' I 
never sweat so hard in my life before,' remarked Bill one day 
to me. ' That thirty-one thousand two hundred and fifty 
dollars was hanging over my head, and I knew if the money 
was n't paid on the minute when due I would lose my inter- 
est, as the ground showed up much richer than the late owner 
had expected. How we dug and sluiced ! Great Scott ! 
but the dirt was rich ! I could hardly believe my eyes ; 
nothing like it was ever known before ! Well, we got the 
thirty thousand dollars out on time all right, and I made my 
payment. That 's how I got in on the El Dorado.' The 
claim is studded with nuggets like plums in a pudding. 
The largest nugget taken out weighed one hundred and five 
dollars, while the largest selected pan of dirt yielded four 
hundred and five dollars. Pans of one hundred dollars and 
one hundred and fifty dollars are a common thing. If the 
claim continues to yield two thousand dollars to the foot, as 
there is every reason to expect, the entire five hundred feet 
will produce a cool million dollars. 

" This is no dream. I have seen the gold and the pay 
streaks, and know whereof I speak. And this claim, No. — , 
was recorded in Dawson, September 29, 1896, by unlucky 

J. H , who sold one-half interest in it for one thousand 

dollars, and got rid of the balance before the big find was 
made. Another striking feature of affairs is the intention 

of my friend L . He wants to get out of the country 

next summer, sure pop, and proposes to mine what gold he 
can this winter and then sell his interest in the un worked 
portion of the claim. ' I 've had enough of this country/ 
remarked Bill to me, ' and I want to leave next summer, 
sure. Eight years in the Yukon is a big chunk taken out 
of a man's life. If I wanted to stay here I could make piles 
and piles of money. But what would I do with it all ? I 
could n't spend it. No, I will sell out and go to the States. 
Probably I shall never marry. My disposition is too wander- 
some. I shall go to the tropics and try mining there. My 
strength is not what it used to be. The climate here is 
breaking me down. I feel it.' " 



CHAPTER XXIX 

THE RACE WITH THE " DOMVILLE " 

Tuesday, September 27th. 

VERY early in the morning we were hailed by the 
Columbian, which has gone into winter quarters. 
Thirty passengers were to be taken from her. The tramp- 
ing on deck and noise of many voices prevented sleep after 
6 a.m. ; bits of conversation drifted through the canvas walls 
into our cabin. " Well, before we got here, the question 
was how to get out of the country. Now it 's where we 're 
goin' to sleep." — " Watch and watch, I guess — hang up 
some while others get their places." — " Hulloa, Billie ! 
that 's a fine cigar you 've got ! Could n't you give a feller 
one o' them? " — " Egad, Tommie, I 'm deuced sorry, but 
it 's the last one I 've got." — " They '11 have to keep the 
hash table going all day long to feed us. 'T will be a short 
order affair." — " Well, I '11 be glad to get even a cup of 
coffee and some bread and butter. Hulloa ! where 'd you get 
that cup ? " and we saw through the crack of the door (which 
had been left slightly ajar for a breath of air) one of those 
pink affairs with gold-rimmed border and " Remember me " 
in big gold letters. — " It's a relic of the Columbian." — " Why 
did n't you bring the saucer ? " " So I did," said the fellow, 
as he fished it from a coat-pocket. ' ' Suppose the ladies ain't 
up yet. I ain't seen one for years." 

As I stepped on to the crowded deck, plenty of room was 
made for me, and loud songs of praise were sounded for Ivan. 
All admired his size, his beauty, and his training. " Whose 
dog is that ? " — " Gad, what a noble beast ! " — " He belongs 

411 



412 Two Women in the Klondike 

to Mrs. H , of San Francisco" (confounding me with 

another). — " Well, she 'd oughter have the finest specimen 
living, she 's got lots o' ducats." Men with coffee-pots, 
men with frying-pans and tinned goods were taking their 
turn at the stove. I went forward to find that the bench 
kept for me before the pilot-house had fallen overboard, but 
was not allowed to feel the want of it, as two men imme- 
diately sprang forward to fetch me the long one used by 
them. 

The smoke from the Domville was just ahead but around a 
turn in the river. She had been pulled free from the sand- 
bar and was apparently tied to a bank. We tried to reach 
her, but not only was the current unusually strong just there, 
a head- wind was also blowing such a gale that, work their 
best, the engines could not force the Flora a foot ahead ; on 
the contrary, she was slowly but surely drifting back. A 
Mississippi River captain, who was one of the passengers, 
said, " Captain, there is only one thing to do — order all the 
men on shore ; tell them to climb this hill, and you '11 pick 
them up around the corner, where the current is not so 
strong. The Captain hesitated between his reluctance to 
accept advice, and his knowledge that lightening the load 
would be of great benefit. Finally his good sense gained 
the mastery, and the order was given. Nearly fifty men 
jumped from the deck onto the narrow, rocky bank ; one fell 
into the water, but his wet, pitiable state elicited no sym- 
pathy, only evoked shouts of laughter in which he thought 
it wise to join as he scrambled up the slippery surface. As 
the passengers scrambled and pulled themselves up the steep 
hillside, a rope was thrown out from the Flora far in advance 
of the Domville (which was still helplessly hugging the 
bank) and made fast to a tree. The engines were hard at 
work, but the steamer was only holding her own. No sooner 
had the line been attached to the capstan than we began 
creeping, first neck and neck with the Domville, then a 
length ahead, and finally there was a shout of triumph as we 
showed her our stern wheel and rounded the point. Just as 
we were about to take on our passengers and start ahead, 



The Race with the " Domville " 413 

the tree was uprooted. The Domville by the same tactics 
was soon able to follow us, but not for long. 

The next object of interest was a rudely constructed scow 
going to pieces, of which we were told the following story. 
A widow with her son and daughter had invested all the 
money they possessed in a cargo of live stock. They were on 
the scow and were being towed by a steamer to Dawson, 
when an accident took place and the scow was broken. The 
live stock floated for a while down the river, but finally 
drowned, and the owners, sad and penniless, passed us on the 
Ova yesterday. I forgot to mention that last evening a man 
came on board with newspapers of the 13th inst., from Seattle, 
for which I gladly gave fifty cents ; read to my sorrow of the 
sad assassination of the beautiful Empress of Austria, whom 
I so greatly admired at a ball in Vienna in 1887. Another 
item, which I failed to understand, was headed, " Admiral 
Dewey has asked for reinforcements. Needs two additional 
warships at Manila. Trouble is in sight. General Hale 
forces a backdown. Aguinaldo expects Americans to with- 
draw." All this after private letters have assured us that 
the war is a thing of the past. 

About one o'clock loud whistles informed us that the Dom- 
ville was rapidly overtaking us, then came cheers from her 
passengers, and groans from ours, as she came alongside ; a 
moment more and she was forging ahead. Ropes were held 
toward us, and there were derisive shouts of " Won't you 
have a tow ? " Someone answered, " You may laugh now, 
but I '11 bet you two hundred and fifty dollars we shall beat 
you yet." Another cried out, " We '11 take your back-wash 
to-day, but wait till we get to the Rapids." A cornetist on 
the Domville responded by playing Home, Sweet Home. The 
Virginian approached, saying, " You told me you would like 
to see the tooth of a mammoth which I found in No. — , 
when I was working my claim at bed-rock twenty-two feet 
underground," and he handed me a most curious-looking 
molar, with two roots which seemed out of all proportion to 
the size of the tooth. ' ' It weighs seven pounds, and I found 
another half that size last year in the same claim. A full 



414 Two Women in the Klondike 



set o' them must 'a' been mighty heavy for any animal to 
carry in his head." " Why don't you present them to the 
Smithsonian?" said I. " Because I 'm going to start a 
museum in my own state," he answered with pride. 

An hour later we saw the Domville just ahead tied to a 
bank, and her passengers were all on shore with axes in 
hand, felling trees for fuel. Our turn at that operation would 







M 










1 J jL 




je*Hr^'** .. iftflA Afi&lL 






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4 - '*••>•'■' 

r i 


,. \ s -ut= 








f\ \ ^ 










■ K 


<,' * 


"y*^"* 


WZ&f* ^' ■ 


jrH 



THE DOMVILLE PASSING US. 

soon come, and as the engines of the Domville are much more 
powerful than ours, we knew that it was only a question of a 
short time before she would overtake us. Our only hope in 
a final triumph lay in the fact that she drew much more 
water than we, had already been aground two days, and 
that we were now to go through many shallow places where 
sand-bars were to be seen on all sides. 

We tried to photograph several Indian graves, which were 
built on the banks overlooking the water, the possessions 



The Race with the " Domville " 4 : 5 

which the departed ones had most prized being hung in plain 
view of all passers-by. At last, as the moon rose in full 
glory, we tied to a bank, near the cabin of the Arctic Ex- 
press Company, to take on fuel. There is great variety 
even in this work. Last night some of our passengers felled 
trees, while others made an enormous bonfire about them. 
To-night we find the wood all cut and stacked in cords on 
the bank. The men form two lines which lead from the 
wood-pile down the bank across the gangplank on to the 
deck ; the one nearest the wood, or rather the ones at the 
head of each line, seize a long, heavy log, pass it on to the 
next, and so it goes from arm to arm until it is landed near 
the engine-room. There is great rivals between the two 
captains as to which one can pass down the greater number 
of logs, and the way in which it is handed over causes amuse- 
ment and sometimes evokes shouts of laughter. Some mean 
business, and are in a hurry, others play to the gallery (the 
women on deck) and take the log carefully in arms as though 
it were a baby ; others pounce upon it as a cat upon a mouse; 
but no matter in what way it is done, 't is quickly done, and 
we are off in eager chase of the Domville. 

The moon, which was high and beautiful, caused the cap- 
tain to vow that he would run all night. The passengers, 
all excitement, were in the bow straining their eyes for the 
object of the chase. Just out of sight ! so the captain decided 
on a short-cut through shoal water. We were speedily gain- 
ing, when we felt the well-known crunching sound, and with 
one voice shouted " aground," while from below came the 
cry of ( ' Stuck ! ' ' Backing began but was useless, so the ma- 
chinery for getting off was brought into requisition with such 
success that in a few moments came the cry, " She 's off." 
" Get your pole and take soundings," shouted the captain, 
as we advanced slowly. " Four feet, three feet six, three 
feet," she 's stuck. " That beats me ! " he cried, " how she 
can be stuck in three feet of water ; she 's done three feet and 
less many a time and how she can get stuck here is more 'n 
I can make out." " Perhaps it 's only her belly that 's 
caught," suggested another of the captains, who were all 



4i 6 Two Women in the Klondike 

gathered together around the pilot-house, each one aching 
to, take the wheel. " Push her on a bit." But it was no 
use, so after many unsuccessful trials we had to beat an 
ignominious retreat and go around the island to the deeper 
channel through which the Domville had successfully passed. 
" It 's all the fault of them hoodoos we took from the Dom- 
ville ; we 'd never 'a' been aground but for that," were the 
mutterings we heard on all sides. 

Inquiries were made and we found that one woman and 
three men, fearing that the Domville could not finish the 
trip, and having great faith in the powers of the Flora, had 
paid their passage money over again in order to come with 
us. We soon made the acquaintance of the woman, whose 
story interested us. She had been caught in the ice before, 
and was determined not to have a similar experience if it 
could be avoided, so, said she, " although I had a bunk in 
the Domville, and have only the barroom table on which to 
sleep here, I preferred to change. It was very lively on the 
Domville. There were six bunks in my cabin, and there were 
six women on board. On my side Swiftwater Bill's house- 
keeper had the bottom one ; she 's only a tiny little thing 
and could scarcely close her eyes because the woman in the 
bunk above her weighed over two hundred pounds, and 
every time she turned it seemed like she was going to fall 
through ; she said she kept her hands up most all the time 
to ward her off ; but we asked her what good her little hands 
could do against such a weight as that. 

" My bunk was over the fat woman ; on the other side were 
Blise and another woman. The sixth lady had an invalid 
husband, and preferred sleeping outside with him, even if it 
was among the men, and that took the bunk away from a poor 
fellow; when we found that he had had no place to sleep for 
two nights, we all felt so sorry for him we told him that after 
we were in bed, he might roll up in his blankets in the top 
bunk if he would keep his back turned, and you can imagine 
he was grateful ! Such is life on the Yukon, in some cases 
and places ! Elise was having a beautiful time on board. 
She taught W to play cards and would keep it up 



The Race with the " Domville " 417 

sometimes till 5 A.m. The first night she won fifty dollars ; 
but the second she lost over two hundred dollars, and swore 
she would n't pay ; but one of the men she owed vowed he 'd 
sell the clothes off her back if she did n't pay him, and I 

don't know how it will end. A M had all his plans 

made to change to this steamer, but the captain took it 
greatly to heart and swore that he 'd land him safely even 
if he had to break the boat to pieces, so he finally prevailed 
upon him to remain." 

During the day the Virginian pointed out to me some 
horses going along a very good trail. We watched them 
with interest, and were finally told that they belonged to 

Jack D and his party, and had eighty thousand dollars' 

worth of gold on their backs. We soon saw the famous Jack 
tramping over his well-known Pass, and many stories were 
told of his life and adventures. One of the passengers pre- 
sented me with a Klondike cup made from a tin can. 
B had been telling a couple of passengers of our Cus- 
tom House experiences, when suddenly one of them said, 
" Will you make an affidavit to that effect ? as we are ex- 
pecting as passenger a man who has been sent out to inquire 
into just such actions." 

Wednesday, September 28th. 
A little before nine o'clock the steward appeared with a 
cup of cocoa, saying, " I 've been trying to get here all the 
morning, but have already fed over eighty, have many more 
to feed, and have to get a lady out who slept in the bar. ' ' 
At nine, one of the " boys" began a lusty song, but was 
interrupted on all sides by shouts of " Too early in the 
morning ! " " Don't ! you '11 break my head ! " " We '11 
throw you overboard and never give you a line." " Why, 
I 'm just feeling good," said the poor fellow. " So are we ; 
but we 're not shouting it." The next sounds brought to 
our bunks were, " She '11 not overtake us again — bet you 
drinks." " Oh, that 's the first thing I heard this morning, 
'' We 've beat the Do7iiville ! we 've beat the Domville ! ' so 
I says, To h — with the Domville ! and let a fellow sleep. 



4*8 Two Women in the Klondike 

Let her get ahead — who cares ! " — " Guess you 'd care a lot 
if she passed us and got stuck in the Rapids, where the 
channel is so narrow that we never could pass her again." — 
" What you feelin' so good about this morning ? You ain't 
got all the gold dust aboard this here craft. By George ! the 
fellers what 's got eddercation seems to think that they own 
the earth, but they ain't in it with the fellers what can't 
read an' write. It takes them to make their pile every time, 
and they 're the only Klondike Kings. Yes, you, for ex- 
ample, you 're doin' so much talkin' — what have you got in 
your sack ? " — " Well, I 've got just that much that when I 
get to Seattle I 'm going to light my cigars with five-dollar 
bills, ten, too, if I like." " Good reason why ! " interrupted 
a loud voice ; " his bills is all counterfeits ; he knows the 
police has got onto it and he thinks the quicker he gits rid 
o' them the better." — " That 's where you 're wrong. It 's 
with good U. S. greenbacks my cigars are to be lighted, 
every time. I 've got money to burn, and I 'm a-goin' to 
burn it too." — " Well, then we '11 come with our shooting- 
irons and take aim at your feet. ' ' 

Scarcely had I appeared upon deck when a comfortable 
seat was made for me out of a bag filled with blankets, and 
placed in front of the pilot-house. The view was fine, and 
the sun resplendent, taking the severe chill from the air. 
On the other side of the island the Domville was going at 
full speed. We were both bound for the same point in the 
centre of the channel. Her powerful engines were doing 
their work well, and we soon saw that we were again to have 
the " back- wash," in Yukon language. " Let 's go down 
below, so they '11 see no one to shout to." — " Look at that 
broom up at her top. That 's a sign they mean to sweep us 
off the face of the earth. They can go now, but we '11 beat 
them in shallow water," etc., etc. " Don't you think a 
little exercise would do you good ? " said the Virginian to 
me ; "we 're going to stop at a cattle-yard, and if you 've 
never seen one in Alaska you might find it of interest. 
Afraid to climb the bank ? Nonsense ! I '11 help you up." 
The deck was covered with wood, over which the kind fellow 



The Race with the " Domville " 419 

assisted me to scramble. We enjoyed a short but delightful 
tramp through a most picturesque spot, while the new 
purser was laying in provisions for the extra number of 
passengers. 

The whistle sounded, and we rushed on board, feeling 
much better for the exercise. The Virginian seated himself 
by me and told me a story of the only lynching scene he had 
ever witnessed during his ten years' stay in this country. A 
young Indian had been kindly entertained by a poor old white 
man ; in return for which he shot him, stole his boat and 
provisions, and escaped ; but the old man's friends were soon 
on his track. Meeting one of the Alaska Commercial Com- 
pany's boats, they told the story to the captain, begging him 
to turn back and with the help of his powerful engines to 
assist them in overtaking the assassin, but the captain was 
loyal to the company, and refused. Putting their own men 
in pilot-house and engine-room, they turned the boat back 
until they reached their destination, then landed, and fol- 
lowed the murderer for miles until they discovered his 
hiding-place. They told their story to his tribe, and the 
murderer was immediately delivered up to the lynching 
party, who made short work of him, and thus justice was 
satisfied. 

At 11.30 a cry went up, " The Domville 's aground 
again ! " Such shouts, yells, and cat-calls as we slowly 
overtook her ! Her passengers were on shore, and two 
carpenters were mending her broken wheel. How our men 
tried to rival each other in such consoling remarks as the 
following : " What are you going to do on shore? Tend 
sheep?" "Be men! stand up, don't get discouraged; 
we '11 send the Flora back for yon, perhaps." " Why don't 
you walk ahead and show the Domville where the rocks are, 
so she won't break her wheel again ? " " We '11 send you 
a box of oranges from Southern California, for you '11 never 
see the States again." As we were passing out of hearing 
someone improvised a song which he shouted lustily and 
which the others caught up with such a will that the words 
must have been borne back to the unfortunates : 



420 Two Women in the Klondike 

" There '11 come a time some day, 
When the Domville will get away." 

" Do trim ship," shouted our captain ; " why do you all 
want to stay on same side ? Did you never see a steamer 
stranded before ? Can't you see we 're approaching the Rink 
Rapids ? How can the sailors hear my orders if you keep 
jabbering so?" All this was uttered in such an excited 
tone, that quiet soon reigned as we found ourselves in the 
unusually low water of the Rink Rapids, and heard the calls 
six feet, five feet six, five, four feet six, four and a half, five, 
six, and then the suspense was over. Some one caught sight 
of a Domville passenger who had wandered far away from 
his companions, and shouted, " Where you goin' ? Lone- 
some ? Better come on board, we '11 give you a lift. Come 
on, gentlemen," (as they caught sight of others,) " we ' ve got 
plenty of good grub. Well, good-bye, if you won't ; we '11 
tell them that we saw you." " Do you gentlemen never get 
tired ? When we 're in a bad place like this you 'd oughter 
keep quiet," shouted the poor captain ; " 'cause we ain't out 
o' danger yet." 

An hour afterwards we stopped at a lonely spot to let a 
passenger disembark. First one man and then another ap- 
peared, as though from underground, until a dozen or more 
were waiting to greet him. " Captain, will you wait five 
minutes, please ? Sandy wants to go this trip with you, and 
he 's running as hard as he can to get his bag." " All 
right," said the captain. The five minutes had almost ex- 
pired when we saw Sandy in the distance, making good 
time, though heavily laden ; the silent men stood on the 
bank, and as he approached, stepped up one by one to give 
him a last grasp — it seemed a life parting. He jumped on 
board, the ropes were cast off, and we were under way when 
one of the silent ones called out, ' ' May we speak to the cap- 
tain ? " " What do you want ? " " Can you let us have an 
injector? " " Do you think we 're a travelling hardware 
shop?" he shouted in reply, but, although his voice was 
harsh, he was consulting with others as to whether one could 



The Race with the "Domville" 4 21 

be spared on the return trip. A passenger quietly remarked, 
" Well, to think o' them durned fools standing there like 
statues an' never askin' for what they wanted until we was 
almost out o' hearin'. Don't it beat all ? " 

" We '11 soon be at Five Fingers," said the Virginian, 
approaching, " where we have a drop and a narrow passage 
to go through between the rocks — so narrow that the steamer 




FIVE FINGERS. 

must graze either side. Everyone has to get off and walk 
around. " " Even the women ? ' ' said I, in alarm. l ' Even the 
women; but you won't mind it, it 's a nice, easy trail." Watch- 
ing with anxiety as we approached the nice, easy trail, I saw 
high hills to climb and rocks, then a sharp descent. The Flora 
was tied up to a bank. " Must we get off, Captain ? " said I. 
" Not if you will sit perfectly quiet." So with a sigh of re- 
lief, we watched the eighty or more passengers cross the gang- 
plank and begin their scramble up the hillside. Someone 



422 Two Women in the Klondike 

called Ivan and I made no objection, thinking the exercise 
would be of benefit, so off he ran, following the procession. 
The gangplank was hauled in, and we started on our perilous 
trip. Soon we were in the whirl, and dashing between the 
gigantic rocks. As we touched the one on the port men were 
ready with long poles to push her off ; scarcely had they done 
so than the captain shouted, " Pole her off on the star- 
board ! " They had but just time to obey the order when we 
ran so close to a partially hidden rock that we shuddered as 
we saw the water rippling over it. " Well done, Captain," 
was shouted on all sides as we found ourselves once more in 
smooth water, and looked up to see our fellow passengers 
wending their way in Indian file along the banks. Some 
on high rocks were taking snap-shots of the Flora in her 
perilous trip, some on the pebbly beach were waiting to come 
on board, but, although the entire line was distinctly visible, 
there was no sign of Ivan. We shouted for him and the 
passengers took up the call and whistled ; still no sign of 
the noble beast. One of the crew then said : " We never 
wait for a dog; four were left here last time." 

I rushed to the captain, who, notwithstanding his gruff 
voice, was indeed most kindly disposed. He said, "It 's 

against the rules to wait, but the manager, Mr. F , has 

gone back for the dog, and I can't leave without him." 
Sure enough, there over the hill, tramping back for Ivan, 

were not only Mr. F , but two or three others. But they 

called and shouted in vain. Ivan had gone back to the spot 
on which he had landed, and was waiting for the return of 
the Flora, and could not be inveigled into deserting his post. 
They finally had to catch him, tie their handkerchiefs 
around him and drag him back. As they came into view 
they waved their hats, and shouted, " All right," and we 
felt the deepest gratitude towards the men who had so 
kindly taken the long tramp. Kveryone on board expressed 
pleasure, and no one objected to the detention, with one ex- 
ception, and that, I am sorry to sa} T , came from a woman, 
who said, " What a shame to lose fifteen minutes waiting 
for a dog ! ' ' 



The Race with the " Domville " 4 2 3 

One of the passengers had a long stick with a string tied 
to one end and a cup to the string. " What 's that for ? " 
called one of his friends. " What '11 you have?" he re- 
plied ; " a glass of lemonade ? " — " No, a gin cocktail." — 
" Can't give it to you ; nothing but lemonade at this bar." 
— " All right, I '11 take that." Down went the fishing-pole 
until the cup touched the Yukon River, filled, and was 
drawn up again. From the fisherman's pocket came out a 
bottle of lemonade tablets, from which one was extracted 
and put in the cnp, which was then handed to the waiting 
man, with instructions to stir with a lead-pencil. 

" Look at the bear ! " was the next cry. " No — sheep." — 
"I '11 bet you drinks." — " All right — done." We rounded 
the point, and there on the banks, on the hilltops, every- 
where in sight, were sheep grazing as though at home, but 
look where we would, there was no shepherd in sight. An- 
other Yukon mystery ! Was the scow lost ? Was the owner 
dead ? Did the sheep swim to shore ? There was no way 
to solve the mystery. We stopped for wood, which was 
lying on the bank already cut. " Lucky the Domville did n't 
come along first, as there 's mighty little to be had now be- 
tween here and the end o' our journey," said one of the 
boatmen. 

E retired at eight to get warm, so I took her place 

by the stovepipe under the awning, where I was soon 
joined b} T the Australian. He has been prospecting all over 
Alaska, but has found nothing to compare with Western 
Australia, where the mines, he declares, offer greater chances 
for investment than any others. He strongly advised a trip 
throughout that part of the world, leaving S3 7 duey and Mel- 
bourne until the last, and said that the accommodations were 
generally good and inexpensive. We were interrupted by 
cries and exclamations — the beautiful Northern Lights were 
vying in splendour with the moon ; three long, golden rain- 
bow-shaped orbs filled the heavens with glory, and kept us 
silent with admiration. 



424 



Two Women in the Klondike 



Thursday, September 29th. 
Wakened at six. Boat motionless ; no sound of the axe 
nor of piling wood on board ; no calls of six feet, five, four, 
three, so we are not aground and working to get off. What 




MILES CANON. 



can it be ? I unlatch the hook and peep out ; the small cabin 
immediately fills with a fog so dense that for a while nothing 
can be seen, then we distinguish the railing covered with 
frost. An hour passes by and the tops of the trees become 
visible. At eight the sun's powerful rays pierce the density. 
Soon the banks appear, finally the battle is won, the fog 



The Race with the " Domville " 4 2 5 

beats a slow retreat, and we are in the full glory of sunshine 
which one never so much appreciates in any other part of the 
world. We steam slowly ahead, close to the banks. One 
could imagine oneself in Florida, as the frost has given to 
the trees the colouring of those covered with the grey moss 
so well known on the St. John's and Indian Rivers. The 
chilliness of the air and the falling of cinders contribute to 
a feeling of laziness which keeps all hands in their bunks. 
There is loud talking on every side, but no tramping of 
decks. 

At ten o'clock, the lady who bunks on the barroom table 
appeared at the door, saying, " Oh my ! but you 're lazy ! 
No you ain't, though," she adds, as she sees in both upper 
and lower berths pens flying over paper. " What are you 
writing — love stories?" — "Far from it." — "Something 
about me? " — " Have n't begun on you yet." — " Well, I '11 
give you my pedigree from way back, when you 're ready for 

it." A moment after we heard Mrs. T and Mrs. H 

in the adjoining cabin being accused of laziness, so inferred 
that they also dreaded the iciness to be found outside, and 
preferred remaining in their bunks. At 10.30 we tied up for 
a short while, but knew not the reason why, as the land was 
not on our side. We were rather amused last night upon 
being told that our big boxes, which are stowed in the hold 
are being used as beds by some of the men, " as they are so 
nice and soft,''' was added. 

At n.30 the Golde7i Star (which we strongly suspect of 
having been the May West) passed us on her way to Dawson. 
The few who were on deck responded to the cheers of those 
who are to be prisoners for the winter. With door slightly 
ajar we watched her from our bunks. Suddenly there was 

a crack, and the board which supported K 's bunk 

partly gave way : a rip, and the canvas upon which she 
was lying began to tear from the n-ails. In an instant 
the door was locked and she was dressing. Hardly had 
she been on deck five minutes when she called back, 
" It 's not cold out at all, and the cinders are falling on 
the other side, so you had better come up." Her sug- 



426 Two Women in the Klondike 

gestion came in good time, as the canvas holding my 
mattress had also given way and I was resting on the life- 
preservers that were stacked under the bunk. Towards 
evening we saw in the distance many cords of wood. The 
cry was, " Don't let the Domville get it, whether we need 
it or not." We stopped, but were able to add only three 
cords to the load we already had, so many were the groans 
at leaving arms to aid the enemy in beating us. One lone 
woman stood on the bank, and holding a paper novel high in 
air, called out, " Will anyone exchange a book with me ? " 
It was quickly done, and many were the expressions of sym- 
pathy as she was left alone in that dreary spot, but her face 
was wreathed in smiles as she waved adieu and the Flora 
passed out of sight. 

" Do you know that Mrs. ' Domville ' has just sold one of 
her claims for fifty thousand dollars ? " said one of the pas- 
sengers to me. We have christened thus the deserter from 
the Domville. Immediately I became interested and desir- 
ous to know how in three mouths she had been so suc- 
cessful. My curiosity was soon gratified, as she came and 
seated herself beside me and began to talk. " I did more 
walking than any other woman this summer," said she. 
" Have only been in a few months, but staked out two good 
claims and have just sold one for nearly five thousand dol- 
lars." "And the other?" I queried. — "Oh, I have that 
still." And so another Yukon exaggeration was nailed on 

the head. " Mr. L (the Virginian) has been awfully 

good to me, ' ' she continued : " I cooked for him all summer. ' ' 

The captain's wife then came to inquire if she could do 
anything for me. She was a tender, delicate little woman, 
waiting on everybody, doing the work of ten men, every- 
where at once, always smiling, and, notwithstanding the 
close quarters and the many times she was called upon not 
only to give up her bunk but also her blankets, was ever in 
good humour. I scolded her for coming from the close 
quarters below to the icy air above without a wrap, saying 
that she cared little for her health, whereupon she gave me 



The Race with the " Domville " 4 2 7 

a short sketch of the year or more that she had just spent in 
the hospital, never expecting to come out alive. Such cour- 
age as she has shown is rarely seen. The purser next 
joined us, saying, " Well, I shall be glad to turn in at ten 
o'clock. I have loaned my bunk all day, three hours at a 
time to each fellow, and the last one got it at seven. I hate 
to waken him, but am dead tired myself. Poor fellows, they 
are thankful even to have the space to lie down on deck, 
after everyone has retired." 

Friday, September 30th. 
The glorious rays of the moon were not only beautiful, but 
also of such assistance that the Flora was enabled to run all 
night. By six o'clock men were seated outside the door and 
the following conversation was overheard, " Well, we '11 soon 
reach the canon. I came through it in a scow. If a fellow 
once falls in he can't get out without help. I saw a fellow 
trying to row out for forty-six hours." — " I saw a scow go 
to pieces there and two fellows go down like a shot. They 'd 
'a' been all right if they 'd 'a' stuck to the wreck, but some 
one threw out a rope and they tried to get to it, lost it, and 
went down. Once you fall in, you 're dead." — " Not much ! 
I swam all through it, and here I am." — " Bet you 're the 
only fellow who ever did it and lived to tell the tale." — 

' You have to work like the devil to escape the whirlpools ; 
if you ever get in them it 's all day with you. " — ' * Ever been 
up the Klondike ? " — " Was up it eighteen times this sum- 
mer. Falls pretty fast, and my, what a current ! Been over 
all these rivers for five years and never got a thing wet until 
I got on to the Klondike." — " Well, White River 's a h — of 
a hard river. Always muddy, and you can't tell where 
you 're at." 
Just here Mrs. "Domville" opened the door and said, 

'Why, it 's nine o'clock; are n't you ladies up yet?" 

" No," said K ; " I 'm waiting for my coffee ; they 

seem to have forgotten it." " I '11 go right down and get 
it for you," said the kind little woman ; she soon returned, 



428 Two Women in the Klondike 

holding the cup by the handle, saying, " It was impossible 
to find a saucer or anything else." Fortified by coffee, 
E— was soon out on deck and under the awning which 
one of her admirers rigged up for her daily. 

The captain's wife came as usual to proffer her services, 
and presented me with a gold blower made from a coffee- 
can by the same man who had made the Klondike cup from 
a tin can. " I am going to get him to make you a Klondike 
candlestick next, ' ' said she. ' ' Will he take pay for them ? ' ' 
I asked. — " Oh, no ! he 's a real nice man, and just loves to 
doit." 

The last few days there has been no opportunity for 
writing. Events have crowded upon each other so fast that 
they leave little detailed impression upon the memory. 
" Hootalinqua Post," " Thirty Mile River," " Canadians in 
winter quarters," have been jotted down as objects of inter- 
est en passant. Then came a morning on the little Nora, 
whose side decks were so very narrow that men had great 
difficulty in using the common wash basin and maintaining 
their equilibrium. Suddenly there was a shout of " dog 
overboard" and a splash was heard in the water; as the 
engine was stopped and the steamer backed, I rushed to see 

that Ivan was safe. Just then the head of ex-Mayor W 

appeared and he began to strike out boldly for shore through 
the icy water. Fortunately he was a good swimmer, as the 
life-buoy thrown to him went w T ide of the mark, and he soon 
landed on the barren shore, which, in that particular spot 
was not quite so rocky and inaccessible as elsewhere. The 
passengers were all deeply relieved as the steamer sheered 
alongside and he was assisted on board. Men crowded 
around him all anxious to " rub him down " and dose him 
with remedies, but, although shivering, he laughingly as- 
sured them that no harm had been done, and that his bath 
was only a few degrees colder than usual, and that he felt no 
anxiety in regard to his sudden immersion. 

There was no one on board to bring us water or to care for 
our cabins, so we impressed into our service one of the men 



430 



Two Women in the Klondike 



who was working his passage, in order to get out of the 
country, and had him thoroughly clean for us an empty lard 
pail which was about to be thrown overboard ; by attaching 
a rope to this, we could lower it from outside our door and 
have fresh water from the Yukon as often as we pleased. 




CHAPTER XXX 

THE FIRST PORTAGE 

ON Saturday, October ist, we were told to prepare our 
bags and be ready for a tramp. We were soon tied 
up to the bank where we were to make the portage. Flat 
cars — truck cars probably they would be called, as they had 
no railing, only a piece at the back to hold the boxes — were 
drawn each by one horse, and exclamations of surprise were 
elicited as one heavy box after another was added to the car. 
The driver said, however, " Why, these horses can carry a 
ton each." The other passengers walked the four and a half 
miles over a fine road with most gorgeous scenery, while I, 
mounted on top of bags, shawl-straps, and boxes, sat on the 
last of the seven cars with an umbrella over my head to pro- 
tect me from the rays of the sun, which were rather powerful 
as we emerged from time to time from the protection of the 
few shade trees. 

Along by the rushing, dashing, foaming torrent of White 
Horse Rapids, we wound our way for a time, then came a 
cut through a bit of woods. The driver entertained me 
with a short history of the road and of himself, as he stopped 
to put in a more secure position the gold-box containing 
several hundred thousand dollars. The road was begun last 
May, cost only about three thousand dollars, and belongs 
to a company of ten men who have taken in twenty thousand 
dollars in the short time it has been running. The rails 
are of wood instead of steel iror on. Each driver receives 
four dollars and fifty cents daily, with board, and fifty cents 

43i 



432 



Two Women in the Klondike 



an hour for overwork. " I 've always been a jockey," said 
my driver, " and all my brothers are jockeys, but this pays 
better than the jockeying business, where you 've plenty one 
day and nothing the next, and I 've already laid by several 
thousand dollars ; besides, I 've broken every horse the com- 
pany uses, and get five dollars apiece for them. Perhaps 




PORTAGE BETWEEN LAKES. 



you would n't believe it of these meek-looking animals, but 
they never had a collar on before I took them in charge." 

We were soon at the foot of quite a little hill. Here all 
the cars were waiting, the horses were unhitched, and two 
taken to haul the heavy load up the steep incline. I jumped 
down and walked on, having already been a bit nervous as 
we skirted the edge of the precipice, where the car tipped a 
little towards the dashing torrent below. It took some time 
for the horses to be rehitched and I was quite half a mile 



434 Two Women in the Klondike 

ahead when I saw something that looked like a bear trotting- 
along in the distance. In a second my cowardly instincts 
obtained the mastery and I beat a rapid retreat, gladly tak- 
ing refuge with the entertaining driver. As we approached 
the little steamer Nora, the horse, either through seeing the 
stable so near at hand or feeling that his master, absorbed in. 
conversation, had forgotten him, turned off at right angles 
from the track with such speed and strength as almost to tip 
over the car with its heavy burden. With a shriek I started 
to jump, a dozen arms were held out to me, as there were 
many miners awaiting the arrival of the luggage, and I 
landed safely. 

Being the first one on board the steamer I asked for choice 

of cabins for E , Mrs. F , and self. " How many 

ladies in the party ? " said the purser, rising, as he hastily 
finished his luncheon. — " Six altogether." — " Then follow 
me. ' ' Through the engine-room we went, where the passage 
between boiler and boards was so narrow that my wrap had 
to come off before it was possible to pass, up a steep ladder 
to a narrow deck and into a dark room where there were 
three bunks on either side, made of boards, with canvas 
stretched, on which to lay one's blanket and pillows. 
" Choose your bunks," said the purser in a kindly manner. 
" But have you no cabin with only two bunks? " " Not 
such a thing on board for passengers," he replied. The 
lower berths, being just off the grouud, were out of the 
question, owing to my fear of mice, so I selected the two in 
the middle and one on top, for which the purser wrote our 

three names and in which he deposited our bags. E had 

joined the walking party with Ivan as companion, while I 
had promised not only to secure the accommodations, but. 
also to attend to the luggage, which had to be weighed and 
paid for. Great dissatisfaction was expressed by many of 
the owners of the boxes, as some boasted that they had 
stipulated in the purchase of the ticket that the luggage 
should be landed at Bennett, free of charge, while those who 
had paid the same price, but had made no such arrangement, 
were taxed three cents a pound portage, which made E 's 



The First Portage 435 

bill and mine amount to nearly twenty dollars. [Let me 
add a friendly word of warning to those who follow in our 
footsteps — have it thoroughly understood before starting 
that there are to be no extra charges.] 

E arrived shortly after, escorted by the Virginian, 

who invited us all to lunch with him at the White Horse 
Canon Hotel. How we did enjoy the " human " potatoes 

once more ! " Was you the two ladies that A M 

took over the trail to his mines ? " said the Virginian Klon- 
dike King. " Well, do you know I was right mad with him 
that day, 'cause he generally stops to pass the time o' day 
with me, but that day he went right on, an' I says to my- 
self, Well, if he don't want to bring them ladies in, I ain't 

a-goin' to ask him, an' as it was the first time that A 

was ever seen with ladies he got no end o' joshin' after- 
wards." 

At 5 p.m. the whistle blew and we were just starting when 
a shout of " A bear — a bear ! " was heard. Everyone rushed 
to the stern and there came my bear trotting down to the 
water's edge for a drink as unconcernedly as though he were 
in the primeval forests and had never heard of his enemy, 
man. There was a dash for rifles. One of the mounted 
police was far in advance of all others, rifle in hand. Others 
without arms followed, shouting and yelling, so that poor 
Bruin had no chance to quench his thirst. The small cub 
on board which had been kept a prisoner for weeks, whined 
and howled. Suddenly there was a shot, we could see the 
smoke and the dogs in wild chase, but were too far away to 
learn whether the bear had been killed or even wounded. 

The next entries in my journal are : " Mounted Police 
Station. Marsh Lake. Tagish Lake. Nine Mile River. 
Lake Bennett." But they convey no meaning and are 
probably places passed in the night. Upon going to the 
cabin for six, the first thing I discovered was that " Madam 
Selfish" (as she has been nicknamed) had moved out my 
bag and belongings from my bunk and put her own in place. 
This was soon changed, only to be rechanged by Madam 
S., who was caught in the act by the purser, whereupon he 



43 6 Two Women in the Klondike 

said to her, " Madam, had you come first and made your 
selection, I should certainly have protected your rights. I 
must do the same by the one who got here nearly an hour 




THE NORA. 



before you and engaged these three." From the purser's 
decision no appeal could be taken, so we were left in peace. 

We stayed on deck for a short time to enjoy the beautiful 
view, but were soon driven away by the cinders. There was 



The First Portage 437 

no place in which to seek protection. Below, every place 
was packed, so that there was scarcely gangway, and the 
cabins were so tiny that there was no room in them to sit. 
Three of the women went to bed at seven as the only way 
out of the difficulty. The poor " Siwash " dog who had 
been kept on deck from the time of leaving Dawson, not only 
had his long fur badly burned, but the burn went so deep 
that it made a large running sore, the size of the palm of a 
hand. To leave Ivan outside was out of the question, so I 
asked E , who manages so well with her travelling com- 
panions, to try and persuade them to allow him to sleep in 
the tiny corridor which was portioned off as a " wash-room 
for ladies." Not even " Madam Selfish " objected, which 
fact immediately washed out all her sins in my eyes. 

The Virginian invited me down for supper, and, although 
I objected on the ground of not being hungry, his arguments 
that he did not want to eat alone and that we would have a 
nice place in which to sit with no danger of being burned, 
quickly persuaded me. So we worked our way down the 
narrow ladder, squeezed past the furnace, and came to that 
part of the boat where eighty new passengers were huddled 
together, sitting on bags, boxes, and logs of w T ood, but sing- 
ing at the top of their voices. As we passed this mass 
of humanity, the song was stilled, hats came off and shouts 

were heard. " Three cheers for Bill L , the Klondike 

King, and the best man on earth ! three cheers for the lady 
— God bless her for being kind to the sick ' boys ' ! and three 
cheers for the handsome dog ! " The table and the benches 
in front of it were close to the engine, and we had to work 
our way carefully in order not to be caught in the machinery. 
The place was stifling, but we were safe from the sparks fly- 
ing through the air, and as we soon became accustomed to 
the temperature we were able to enjoy the supper. The 
manager's wife told me that small and uncomfortable as are 
the quarters on the Nora, they are now far better than in 
former times, when there was not even a partition for the 
live stock. After supper the cheering recommenced as we 
once more wended our way back to the narrow upper deck. 



438 Two Women in the Klondike 

Although it was but a little after eight, there was nothing 
for it but to retire, so I said good-night to my kind ^Virginia 
friend and joined the small party who were waiting for me 
to extinguish the light of the kerosene lamp. The next 
difficulty was how to wriggle into the middle bunk. " I 

had to get my feet in first," said K , " and then draw 

myself in gradually. You 'd better try the head first, or 
you run the risk of breaking your back." I tried each way, 
but being unaccustomed to gymnastic performances, was in 
despair. Finally the feat was accomplished, the light was 
out, and we tried to settle down to sleep, but through the 
cracks in the floor we could see the motley crowd below and 
hear their songs — mother songs, darkey songs, duets, quar- 
tettes, choruses — then a shout of " Oh ! Jim 's going to 
sleep ! stick a pin in him," then a grunt, and Jim was evi- 
dently wide awake. " Look-a-here, Bill, if you '11 put your 
back ag'in' mine, we kin sort o' steady each other, and that ; s 
the best kind o' bed that we kin git to-night." " Go on, 
Jack, give us another song ; give us the Wabash," and so 
they kept it up until 5 a.m. 




CHAPTER XXXI 

THE SKAGUAY PASS 

SUNDAY morning we arrived at Bennett, of which we 
had read so much. A heavy snowstorm greeted us 
and we groaned, fearing that we could never get over the 
Pass. We all went to the Hotel Dawson for breakfast, and 
as we sat on the benches waiting for food, the discussion be- 
gan as to whether we should take the Chilkoot or the White 

Pass. Neither E nor I felt equal to the perpendicular 

descent of the former, but many of the men preferred it 
owing to its being so much shorter. We used all our per- 
suasive powers to urge them in favour of the White Pass, 
feeling that we should be so much safer in their company, 
and finally, as the blinding snowstorm became more fierce, 
we were successful, as no one dared attempt the Chilkoot 
under such circumstances. The runners for Dyea did all in 
their power to dissuade us, telling us that one of the Eakes 
was frozen, navigation stopped, the railway not running, 
etc. ; but in the face of all these announcements our decision 
was unalterable. An agent for a new transportation com- 
pany started by the railroad, which wished to make a record 
for itself, came to get our luggage to be landed in Skaguay 
for ten cents a pound, and promised that we should have 
everything the following day at two o'clock. Mark the re- 
sult. We booked all through except our blankets and toilet 
bags which were specially marked for the Old Log Cabin 
Hotel, eight miles farther on, where we were to spend the 
night. A man " going in," seeing the fine quality of our 

439 



44° Two Women in the Klondike 

blankets and noticing the newness of them, was most anxious 
to purchase them, telling us that we would find bedding all 




CHILKOOT RAILWAY AND TRANSPORTATION COMPANY. 



the rest of the trip, but we said that nothing would induce 
us to sleep in any but our own. 

At 10.30 the party started, the Virginian being told off to 

head the line, his partner N to bring up the rear. 

K 's escort was a charming Englishman, a Captain 



442 Two Women in the Klondike 

T , who had been eight years in command of one of the 

Mitsu Bishi steamers in Japan, and who was well acquainted 

with E 's brother. Consequently, there was much of 

interest for them to talk over during the eight-mile tramp. 

My escort was a Mr. T . We passed the steamer that 

we should have taken had we gone via Dyea, skirted wonder- 
ful L,ake Linderman, and I was so intensely interested in the 
gorgeous scenery that suddenly one leg was up to the knee 
in a deep marsh. Pull and tug as I would, I could not ex- 
tract it ; we had been walking single file and my escort was 
a little in advance. Happening to turn, he saw my predica- 
ment, and notwithstanding his heavy load, he was soon 
back, pulling with all his might as he firmly gripped my 
hand. For a short time the suction below was greater than 
the force from above, and it seemed as though the boot at 
least must be left as a memento on the trail, already covered 
with the dead bodies of more than horses ; a last effort, and 
boot and all came slowly, slowly from the marsh, while the 
perspiration rolled in streams from my forehead. 

I had read so much of the icy atmosphere of the summit, 
that I had prepared for it by wearing two thick suits of wool- 
len flannels, a jersey, cloth jacket, and sealskin wrap and 
collar. [Another word of warning ! Never overburden 
yourself with heavy clothing for an eight-mile tramp even 
to the summit, as each pound becomes an insupportable 
burden with each step.] My escort kindly offered to carry 
the sealskin, but his pack was sufficiently heavy as it was, 
so I staggered on until finally we were overtaken by the 
newspaper boy, lightly clad, and with nothing but a few 
papers to carry. I asked him if he wanted a job of packing, 
promising that he should be well paid for it. He willingly 
took the wrap, but was off before remuneration could be 
offered. 

The trail wound up-hill, over rocks, across swamps, and 
over log bridges which threatened to turn as we stepped on 
them. We picked up our short skirts and waded through 
shallow streams (bloomers are much safer without the skirts), 
reaching hilltops from which we could see the advance guard 



The Skaguay Pass 



443 



and those far in the rear, went down into ditches and swamps 
from which no sign of the trail was visible, and here Ivan 
came to our assistance, as it was only necessary to say to 
him, " Run ahead, good doggie," and, by following him, we 




ON THE SKAQUAY TRAIL. 



soon had the leaders in full view again. Haifa mile before 
reaching our destination we stopped at a tent on which we 
saw the sign " Restaurant." Never did oranges seem more 

delicious than those which Mr. T presented to us ! No 

thirsty, fever-parched patient could have enjoyed them half 
so intensely. 



444 Two Women in the Klondike 

Refreshed, we continued our tramp, reaching the Old 
IyOg Cabin Hotel just as the more rapid walkers in our 
party had finished dinner. Their shouts of welcome were 

pleasant to listen to. E and her escort arrived an hour 

later ; she was thoroughly exhausted, and delighted to find 
that we were to go no farther that night. The quarters 
were crowded to overflowing. We looked at the bunks, one 
above the other, and felt that it was no place for the night. 
After a short talk with the proprietor, he accompanied us 
to a small tent, one hundred and fifty yards beyond, a new 
American Hotel and Restaurant. We passed through the 
latter, entering a long canvas -covered room, containing 
thirty-two bunks, sixteen lower and sixteen upper, with 
places made for two in each ; all were of logs over which, as 
usual, canvas was tightly stretched. The part to be occupied 
by each person was clearly defined, as a pole was lashed down 
the centre, although the same blanket covered both indi- 
viduals. 

I immediately engaged the bunk in the corner, which was 

curtained off by a bit of canvas, for E and me. At the 

foot of the bed was a small space in which some old bags 
were stored, and this I secured for Ivan. Shortly after, the 
other members of the party (feeling that the night was to be 
a noisy one at the Old Eog Cabin Hotel) followed ni}^ ex- 
ample. The five women engaged lower bunks and had them 
curtained off, then came the men of the party who also de- 
sired a quiet night's rest. The place I had secured for Ivan 
was coaxed from me as a dressing-room, all gladly consent- 
ing, however, to allow the dog to remain. There were 
shouts of " flies ! " No wonder they attracted attention, as 
they are not known in that part of the world from which we 
were returning. 

While the men were out smoking, or preparing for dinner, 
we divested ourselves for a while of rubber boots and warmed 
our feet. I asked for a basin of warm water in which to 
wash my hands while waiting, but the American proprietor 
and wife said that if I wished to wash my hands I must come 
out in the wash-room and do it. The pack-train came along 



The Skaguay Pass 



445 



with the blankets, the man stopping to know if I still wanted 
them. " Most assuredly I do ; put them on this bunk." — 
" Can't do it, madam ; have to leave them at the Custom 
House." — " Will you ask them to send them directly here ? " 
— " Yes 'm. Gimme a piece o' pie," he shouted, grabbed it, 
and rushed off. 

After waiting some time without receiving the desired 



^ 




A BUNK HOUSE. 



package, I asked the proprietor, in as meek a tone as possi- 
ble, if he could find some one to go to the Customs and get 
my pack. No, he could n' t. So my weary feet were dragged 
into the rubber boots once more, and I went in search of the 
missing bedding. It was not to be found. At last, meeting 
the chief, and stating the case to him, he called his assistant, 
who said that the leader had left the pack in his care, but 
that the last man in charge of the train had told him that the 
articles were to go on to Skaguay, and so had put them on his 



446 Two Women in the Klondike 

horse. ' ' How far ahead is the pack-train ? " said Mr. S , 

who had kindly accompanied me ; " I might go on and over- 
take it," but, as the poor fellow had already walked his eight 
miles, I assured him that we could get on without the things 
in question perfectly well. A fine predicament ! No 
blankets, no pillows, not even a comb or brush, although 
instructions had been carefully written out and given with 
the positive assurance that they should be carried out to the 
letter. There was nothing further to be said or done. When 

B was informed of the great mistake that had been made, 

she mourned the loss of her films which she had placed in the 
bag specially for use on this trip. " Never again shall I do 
the White Pass," said she, " and the thought that such stu- 
pidity should prevent me from taking photographs annoys 
me beyond measure." 

After dinner the men joined us and we sat around the stove 
on boxes telling stories. We had seen the bodies of horses 
lying all along the road, and were told that over three thou- 
sand have perished since June one year ago. From what we 
had read, we had fully expected the odour to be almost unbear- 
able, but, fortunately, were disappointed. The Virginian told 
the sequel to the story of the Indian lynching : " A white man 
started out with three Indian guides to explore the Tanana 
River, but, getting discouraged with the hardships, deter- 
mined to return. The Indians were averse to so doing, as 
they were expecting big results, but the white man insisted 
and finally started back alone. He was soon followed by 
one of the Indians, who said, ' I must take you back, if you 
will go, as the river is running strong, and should you go 
under, three Indians would be lynched.' " Someone then 
told about the fence put up by the Indians from Forty Mile 
to Tanana, where they corral caribou, stationing members of 
their tribes at watch-posts where they have gates. 

Captain T came in and announced that if we wanted 

to catch the train at the summit we must be ready to start 
between five and six o'clock in the morning. This so startled 
the slow walkers that they insisted upon being allowed to 
retire at once. Although our part of the tent was well 



448 Two Women in the Klondike 

screened off, we demanded that the men should clear the 
cabin and wait until they were called in. We undressed 
rapidly, realising that it was icy cold outside, and were soon 
rolled up in the blankets we had sworn not to use. ' ' Come, ' ' 
shouted Mrs. M . There was a pell-mell rush and a kick- 
ing off of boots. Funny stories were told, which elicited 
peals of laughter from women as well as men. Someone 
commenced filling up the stove with wood, at which we 
shouted loudly in protest, and, finally, requested one of the 
men to stand guard over it. The laughter became almost 
hysterical ; it seemed like a lot of girls at boarding- 
school. At last all was quiet. We were just about 
to doze when Ivan stretched his weary limbs, giving such 
a grunt of satisfaction at being in warm quarters once 
more that there was a general shout and the laughter recom- 
menced. 

At 2 a.m. we were awakened by loud snoring from one of 
the men in the top berth. Movements on all sides showed 
that he had succeeded in arousing everyone but himself ; 
finally there were shouts of " Pinch him." " Hold his 
nose." "Put a clothes-pin on his nose." "Wake him 
up." "Kick him out" — until, with a louder snore than 
usual, he awoke. There was a general peal of laughter. 
" What time is it? Time to get up?" Someone looked 
at a watch, "Two o'clock, go to sleep." So much noise 
awakened Ivan, who roused himself to stand, stretch, and 
shake. As I tried to reach him and make him understand 

that he was to lie still, the pole which partitioned K 

from me broke, and we rolled together into the pocket 
formed by the drooping canvas. We tried to cling to the 
pole on the edge, but our efforts were in vain, so we had to 
rob ourselves of one blanket and form a new partition. The 
temperature soon became freezing, and we were all shivering 
with cold. Some good soul got up at four and made a fire 
and we dropped asleep again to the sound of the crackling 
of the wood. 

At five the alarm-clock sounded, and the men began dress- 
ing. As soon as the last one was out of the tent we were 



The Skaguay Pass 



449 



making as much of a toilet as was possible without the aid 
of toilet articles, washing with one handkerchief, drying 
with another, combing our hair with hairpins, and arranging 
it without a mirror. Breakfast consisted of beefsteak, pota- 




CAN YOU GO NO FARTHER ? 



toes, coffee, bread, butter, and apple sauce, and then we were 
•off on the trail once more. As we were among the slow 
walkers, one member of the party after another passed us 
and disappeared from view, so that when we had accom- 
plished our tramp of two and a half miles along Shallow 
lyake, and had reached Middle Lake, we found the sail- 



45° Two Women in the Klondike 

boat, the Peterboro' canoe, and the party all waiting for us. 
A sail of five miles brought us to another portage of one and 
a half miles over a hilly, rocky, but not too difficult road. 
Nevertheless, it took us so long to cover the distance that 
we failed to reach Summit Lake in time to join the 
party who had sailed away nearly half an hour before our 
arrival. 

Being much refreshed, however, by an hour's sail through 
the beautiful islands, we changed our minds in regard to 
remaining over night at the first stopping place, and de- 
cided to push on to the Ford, two miles distant, where we 
were to lunch. These two miles we found to be the 
roughest part of the journey. After a luncheon of egg 
sandwiches and lemonade, we started over rocks, climbed a 
steep hill, finally coming to a long stretch which was being 
graded for a railway. We welcomed level ground once more 
with great joy, and were quite certain that as we had only 
five miles ahead of us before reaching the train the remainder 
of the journey would be easy walking. Alas ! the grading 
soon came to an end, and a turn in the road brought us to 
the brink of a steep precipice — absolutely perpendicular. 
Down, down, we looked upon the immense rocks far below 
us, and on the other side could see the narrow trail clearly 
defined, but how to reach it ! Evidently we had come too 
far. It resolved itself into a question as to whether we 
should retrace our steps for a mile or more or try the dizzy 
descent. 

Poor patient Captain T , who had been kindness itself, 

was ready for either, but to impose upon him all that addi- 
tional tramp seemed selfish and cruel. So we screwed up 
our courage and began the descent, the Captain taking the 
lead. How he found a place to rest even the toe of his foot, 
much less the sole, is beyond my comprehension. Bach 
rock or stone upon which we tried to depend immediately 
proved treacherous, slipped, and rolled until we heard the 
thud far below. Slipping, sliding, sitting down at times 
while feeling for something solid, we gradually descended, 
holding our breath and making no sound from very terror. 



The Skaguay Pass 



45 1 



The bottom was finally reached, then began a scramble, 
pulling, slipping over the rocks until at length, with a feel- 




A HARD ROAD FOR TIRED FEET. 



ing of the utmost satisfaction and relief, we were on the other 
side, and were complimented by the good Captain, who said 



45 2 Two Women in the Klondike 

that his heart sank when he first saw the precipice, as he did 
not believe that we could possibly accomplish so perilous a 
descent. 

E said that her great terror had made her quite forget 

her lameness, and she felt much better for the unusual experi- 
ence. Gayly we walked along, thankful for a level road 
once more, enjoying the dashing torrent below the tremen- 
dous rocks overhead on the other side, when, suddenly, there 
was a noise as of thunder; we stopped; another blast, followed 
by a third, and down came some gigantic rocks, down, down, 
almost by our very feet and into the chasm below. That we 
were not crushed instantly was not the fault of the railroad 
employees, as no lookout had been stationed on the path and 
no word of warning given. A white flag was to be seen on 
the mountain-top, but we did not know the meaning of the 
signal. A sort of yodel we had heard also and answered, 
thinking that it came from other members of our party, but 
it seemed to us that lives were endangered both carelessly 
and needlessly. From that time on, the blasting was almost 
continuous, and as we could not tell in which direction to 
look for danger we tramped steadily on, trusting to the I^ord 
for protection. 

Two men appeared in search of a pack-horse which had 
rolled down the precipice with his load. We looked carefully 
but could see no trace of horse or pack ; one more carcass 
added to those which already strew the White Pass ! At last 
the railway could be seen through the loop in the mountains 
as we crossed the bridge and went along the main street of 
White Pass City or Heney, passing tents and houses. A 
member of our party approached, greeting us with loud 
shouts of welcome. " We 've been so worried about you 
we were about to send some of the party back ; we thought 
that you never could do the precipice. The ladies are all in 
that hotel resting, as the train does not go till five and there 
are still three hours to spare." As we entered the small 
building honoured by the name of hotel, the four women of 
the party jumped from their beds to greet us as though we 
had risen from the dead. ' ' How did you ever do the preci- 




From a Photograph by H. C. Barley. 

BLASTING ON THE SKAQUAY PASS. 



454 Two Women in the Klondike 

pice ? " they cried in one breath ; "we 're light and accus- 
tomed to tramping ; but we got so frightened about you 
that we were just sending the men back for you," and one 
brought fresh water, another towels, another soap, while 
still another assisted in taking off our wraps. 

Thank the Lord, we 've accomplished the terrible White 
Pass, and our tramping is at an end forevermore ! We 
would n't have missed it for the world ; neither would we 
do it over again. 

The proprietor and his wife begged me to do them the 
honour Of naming their hotel, but as the one opposite was 
called " Ham-Grease Saloon," and seemed to be very popu- 
lar, I did not feel equal to competing where such names were 
in favour. After resting a while, Captain T accom- 
panied me to the railroad station to attend to the luggage, 
and to purchase tickets. The station was at the bottom of 
a hill seven hundred feet high, the train at the top. " Do 
you mean to say we must climb that to reach the cars ? " I 
asked of the agent ; " why that is steeper than anything we 
have done on the entire Skaguay Pass." " You might go 
up in the car with the luggage," he replied. " I don't ad- 
vise you to try it, lady," said a bystander, " coz sometimes 
it slips back." 

We went out to inspect. The power house was above, the 
car below, and a stout cable-line connecting them. It looked 
perfectly safe, while the climb seemed a dizzy and a dan- 
gerous one. E arrived, and said that the latter she 

could not do, so she decided that she would take the risk of 
going up in the car. Then she took her seat on top of a 

trunk, while Mrs. F and Mr. F accompanied her. 

When the car had reached the steepest part of the road, 
more than half-way up, the cable suddenly slackened, 
allowing it to slip backwards. "Jump for your lives," 

shouted the man in charge. Mr. and Mrs. F , seated in 

front, were out in a second, but poor E was imprisoned 

by a trunk which the employees had scarcely time to remove 
and extricate her from her perilous position before the car 
dashed down to the bottom of the steep hill. Two men 





1 W'^f 



From a Photograph by H. C. Barley. 

CUTTING ROCK FOR A GRADE ON TUNNEL MOUNTAIN. 



45 6 Two Women in the Klondike 

helped her up to the top. This accident prevented all others 
from entering so dangerous a conveyance. 

To those of us who had congratulated ourselves too soon 
upon having reached the end of all fatiguing exertion, this 
seemed in reality the last straw. We gazed upward and 
shuddered. Two men kindly offered me assistance, which I 
most gladly accepted. The entire trail seemed as nothing" 
in comparison, for we dared not use the rails, with the cable 
now slack, then tight, then flapping so that we were in danger 
of being caught by it if we approached too near. There was 
not even a rolling stone on which to rest the foot for an in- 
stant, and, as we neared the train, it was by main force that 
the two stout men carried my weight until some of the em- 
ployees leaned over the embankment and drew me up. I 
sank into the first seat at hand, and looked down the steep 
hill of which no photograph can give a realistic picture. 

At last the whistle sounded. "All aboard ! " was shouted. 
Then the Klondike " boys " began to exclaim joyously, " A 
train at last after all these years ! " " How long since you 
been in one, Jim ? " " Too long to talk about," said Jim, 
as the tears rolled down his weather-beaten cheeks. The 
" boys ' ' began to sing Home, Sweet Home. " My old mother 
don't know I 'm a-coming. Poor Bill ! his people have all 
died, he 's been away so long, and he ain't got even a sweet- 
heart to welcome him back, but he '11 have a hot time in 
Skaguay to-night with all his nuggets disappearing." The 
" boys" caught up the strain and A Hot Time in Skaguay 
was predicted from dozens of throats. 

Some stiff, stately persons seated in front of us drew them- 
selves together, their noses high in the air, and gazed con- 
temptuously upon the noisy rabble. They could not see the 
pathetic side of the picture — of how the poor " boys" had 
tramped, footsore and weary, for days, months, and even 
years ; putting up with privations of all descriptions, suffer- 
ing from lack of proper nourishment, half frozen in winter 
or risking their lives in going to the assistance of a less 
fortunate comrade, or they would not have frowned upon 
those shouts of joy at being once more within the bounds 



The Skaguay Pass 457 

of civilisation. A sudden whistle ! "A cow on the track, 
boys ! let 's get off an' look at her. I 've forgotten how one 
looks." We listened to Suwanee River, Old Folks at Home, 
everything which suggested itself to the " boys," until at 
last " Skaguay " was called out. 

How odd it seemed to descend from a railroad train and 
see signs of " Beer, ten cents," instead of one dollar, and 
" Peaches three for a quarter." All signs were read aloud 
by the leaders of our procession and comparisons made. We 
soon reached " Brannick's," where the ladies of our party 
had determined to stop for the night. What luxury ! a frame 
house, not one built of logs ! carpets.! plenty of lamps and 
curtains ! A book was moved towards us and we were asked 
to register, another unusual proceeding. How pleasant to 
see once more a " four-poster" with spring mattress, sheets, 
and pillow-cases ! " What is the dinner-hour ? " we asked. 
" We only let rooms, but there are several restaurants and 
an oyster-house very near." " Oysters ! we must go and 
get some at once, before we forget how they taste." So 

E and I started on ahead. Accustomed to Dawson and 

the deep respect with which we had been treated by the 
brave, honest miners, we were quite astonished to have the 
Skaguay men stop and stare at us as we passed, although it 
was not yet 8 p.m., so we hurried into the first restaurant, 
ordered oysters, salads, and many other things that we had 
been deprived of so long, and begged for the newspapers 
while waiting. We were greatly interested in the wonder- 
ful letters in the papers describing life in Dawson, and were 
much amused at the exaggerations which we found in each 

article. 

Skaguay, October 4th. 

At last our tramp is at an end, all perils are over ; the ter- 
rible White Pass has been traversed, and we look back upon 
it with a shudder, wondering how we ever dared attempt 
such an undertaking, yet glad, at having accomplished it. 

E and I have both vowed that nothing under heaven 

would ever induce us to make such a. trip again, and yet we 
are proud of ourselves for having mustered sufficient courage 



458 



Two Women in the Klondike 



to surmount the dangers of which we had read, and we would 
not for the world have missed such an experience. 

The weary Klondikers were aroused at an early hour this 
morning from their luxurious slumbers in comfortable beds, 
after months of rolling up in furs and blankets, by the loud 
and persistent lamentations of a passenger who had missed 
a steamer. Sleep being out of the question, I arose and soon 
became so absorbed in writing that twelve o'clock came be- 



Ml 


•\.V 


^-'V"% -. /„*^r 1 l ~-„ 


; ■ -i 1 


H 


m 

ft. ^KSl<s- ■& 







THE CEMETERY, SKAGUAY. 



fore I was aware. E rushed in, saying, " There is a 

steamer to leave at three this afternoon — can you be ready 
at such short notice? If so, I '11 get the tickets, as the lug- 
gage has just arrived. We can go by this and see Sitka and 
other interesting points, or wait until to-morrow and go 

directly to Seattle."—" I '11 be ready." So E went off 

for the tickets, then returned to go with me to the restaurant. 
We stopped to purchase photographs which we had not time 
to take ourselves, and were in the carriage on our way to the 




MRS. HITCHCOCK. 



460 Two Women in the Klondike 

steamer City of Topeka just as the hotel proprietor said she 
was blowing her last whistle. " Cut rates," whispered 

E , ' ' so that we have only twelve dollars each to pay for 

the week's trip." It seemed impossible, but we were very 
willing to take advantage of such an opportunity. 

Mr. L and more than half of our party remained be- 
hind, some because their luggage had not arrived, others be- 
cause they could not secure a bunk. We waited two hours 
at the wharf notwithstanding that " last whistle." 

The purser had told E that the top or third berth in 

our stateroom would probably be unoccupied, so she did not 
purchase it. As we started, however, we saw extra bags in 
our cabin, and hung about to see our new travelling com- 
panion. She proved to be a nice, quiet, but entertaining little 
woman who fitted in most agreeably. Although it was quite 
cold we walked the decks (where there were scarcely any 
seats to be had, everything was in such an overcrowded con- 
dition) until late, admiring the great contrast between the 
snow-capped mountains and the beautiful verdure-covered 
islands, We asked the purser for seats at table, but his reply 
was, " Sit anywhere." The rush was so great when the gong 
sounded, that we stepped back, preferring to let " the 
pushers" enjoy their feast while we waited for the second 
table. We had the luck, however, to get an unusually 
good waiter, who promised to reserve the same seats for us 
during the entire trip. 




A 



CHAPTER XXXII 

A DAY IN SITKA 

Wednesday, October 5th. 

S the shutter was opened, beautiful verdure on all sides 

gladdened the eye. Mrs. B was up and dressed 

almost before we were awake. E and I had determined 

to be lazy and to get up only in time for luncheon, but when 

Mrs. B rushed in, saying, " We shall be in Sitka in half 

an hour," we scrambled into our clothes as rapidly as possi- 
ble. As we landed, Indian women hurried down to the 
wharves and seated themselves along the road, spreading 
out their wares on the ground before them — curios of all 
sorts and descriptions. I decided to do the town first, ex- 
amine everything, then select the very best. This was a 
mistake, as the supply was so small and the demand so 
great that soon all the best things had been taken and prices 
were going up materially for the few remaining articles. I 
secured two walking-sticks, the handle of one an eagle's 
claw, of the other a deer's hoof, a curiously carved pipe, 
which must have been so heavy as to have detracted from 
the pleasure of the smoke, a carved salad fork and spoon, a 
beaded bottle, finely braided basket, and one of the daintiest 
pairs of moccasins I have ever seen. 

The next search was for photographs. We stopped at the 
Hotel Millmore long enough to see what a hotel in this part 
of the world looked like — very primitive and old-fashioned, 
but comfortable. We went through the Indian village, stop- 
ping to talk with the most interesting natives. Many times 

461 



462 



Two Women in the Klondike 



my camera was turned towards them but as they generally 
objected, I did not press the subject, nor the button. I 
questioned one woman as to the cause of her objection. She 
explained to me, in sign language, that if I would wait for 
her to change into her Sunday costume she would give 

me the great privilege. E was just about to snap a 

most picturesque group 
of children, when the 
mother came rushing up- 
on her, shaking her fist. 

E told the children 

to look in her camera 
and see the reflection, 
and as they were stand- 
ing about her, peeping 
into the top of the cam- 
era, their expressions of 
surprise brought the 
mother, who wanted to 
see also. While she was 
investigating with them, 
I snapped the group. 

From natives and from 
dogs Ivan attracted gen- 
eral attention and was 
always surrounded, but 
seemed as unconscious of 
the snapping, snarling, 
barking curs at his heels 
as of the exclamations of 
admiration heard on all 

sides. An old chief arose as I approached, and inquired the 
value of the noble beast. " Five thousand dollars," said I. 
He looked stupefied. " Quite beyond his comprehension," 
said my companions. " Two hundred dollars my dog," said 
the chief, as he whistled for him. We decided that he was 
telling us what he paid for his, but the men of the party in- 
sisted that he was a " sporty " old man, and was offering to 




OUR ROOM-MATE. 



A Day in Sitka 463 

back his dog against mine for that amount, particularly as 
he clutched his throat, made signs of a hearty shaking, and 
then imitated someone's having dropped lifeless. I did not 
stop to see whether or not he expected that " someone " to be 
Ivan, but beat a rapid retreat, as his eager whistling began 
again. 

A little farther on, we found an Indian carving a salad 
fork and spoon ; the design seemed so much more unique 
than on those I had bought that I waited for him to finish 
and sandpaper his handiwork. His wife soon made her ap- 
pearance with her head bandaged, and apparently in such 
pain that she could neither sit nor stand, but moaned and 
walked, moaned and sat down, only to start off again. From 
her description in broken English and in signs, I inferred that 
she had had no physician, but had suffered agonies from 
neuralgia. " Come with me to the steamer," said I to the 
husband, " and I will give you a cure which will relieve her 
of all pain in a few hours." He caught up his cap and fol- 
lowed. During the walk some Alaska dolls attracted me 
and I stopped to purchase them ; the Indian looked sternly 
at me and grunted, " Medichin." On we went until an 
article made of deer's nails, to be used either as a plaything 
for children or by a warrior in his dance, was more than I 
could resist ; fearful lest someone else should secure it, I was 
handing the money for it, when a reproachful voice called 
out "Medichin." Quite near the steamer sat a woman 
with unique curios — another temptation to which I yielded, 
but the voice grew threatening as I heard " Medichin " for 
the last time. The Indian followed me up the gangplank 
to my cabin, where I opened the bag and handed to him four 
of my precious tablets, explaining to him just how they 
should be used. He listened attentively. " Cover," said 
he. I wrapped them for him, he turned on his heel without 
a word of thanks or salutation, and soon disappeared from 
view. 

Having seen the natives, their homes, their handiwork, 
their wonderfully beautiful harbour with Mount Edgecombe, 
an extinct volcano, a little over twenty miles from Sitka, 



464 



Two Women in the Klondike 



clearly to be seen, my attention was turned to the govern- 
ment buildings, consisting of United States Court House 
and Jail, located near the wharf on the southeast side of an 
old Russian log building, containing court-room, jail, and 
quarters for government officials. 

I went first to the mission, being most courteously received 
by Judge K , who showed me through the large, bright 




INDIAN CHILDREN AT SITKA, 

sunny school-rooms, where the children looked happy and 
interested in their studies. After a short chat with the 
teachers, we paid a visit to the culinary department, which 
looked large and clean and attractive, after the make-shifts 
of Dawson. A short visit to the spotless dormitories — a few 

words of thanks and encouragement to Judge K , who 

has spent so many years of his life so far away from home, 
and then on with a fellow passenger for one of the most ro- 
mantic walks imaginable to the Indian River and along its 



A Day in Sitka 465 

banks. It reminded me greatly of " Flirtation Walk" at 
West Point, so dear to the heart of the cadet. 

We went next to the Russian church, with its beautiful 
Russian paintings, many of which were covered with gold 
and silver. A description given by the North Star says : 
" In the year 1816, a small chapel was built in Sitka by 
BaranofT, but the present cathedral of St. Michael was built 
and dedicated in 1844 by Ivan Veniamiuoff, when he became 
Bishop of the Diocese of Russian America, and this church 
occupies a quadrangle in the centre of the city. The chime 
of six bells was sent from Moscow, and rich vestments, plate, 
pictures, and altar furnishings were sent by VeniaminofF, 
then Metropolitan of Moscow, and by members of noble 
families in Russia. The interior furnishing is in gold and 
white, and the inner sanctuary, which is forbidden to wo- 
men, is separated from the body of the church by very hand- 
some, elaborate bronze doors. Massive candlesticks stand 
on each side of the doors, and on the screens are full-length 
pictures of St. Michael and St. Nicholas in robes and armor 
of beaten silver, with jewelled halos and helmets. 

" The chapel and the altar in the right transept are dedi- 
cated to John the Baptist. The chapel of St. Mary on the 
left is used for services in winter. The altar picture of the 
Madonna and Child with their sweet faces and fine silver 
draperies, is considered very beautiful. The church treas- 
ures consist of rich vestments, jewelled crowns, crosses, re- 
liquaries, and caskets, some illuminated breviaries and 
missals with jewelled and enamelled covers, and a fine bap- 
tismal bowl. The crowns used in the marriage ceremony 
and the mitre of the bishop are of elaborate workmanship. 
In 1869, the Russian church was robbed, by United States 
discharged soldiers, of plate and the jewelled Bible, which 
were in part recovered. 

''The Czar of Russia maintains the seventeen churches 
and ninety-three chapels in Alaska and the chapels in New 
Tork, Chicago, San Francisco, and the churches in many 
other places of the United States at a cost of about ninety 
thousand dollars per annum. Before the See was transferred 



466 Two Women in the Klondike 

from Sitka to San Francisco, the bishop resided in the long 
green-roofed building on the Governor's Walk (now the 
Russian Orphanage), and there is a small chapel within the 
building in which there are many fine silver icons. Before 
the transfer, the Chapel of the Resurrection in the stockade 
was used for the natives. During the rising of the Indians 
it was once held by them as a fort. It decayed, and was de- 
stroyed a few years ago, and all now worship together in the 
church of St. Michael." 

Everywhere we met Indians wearing the large " Dewey 
button." On returning to the steamer I was disappointed 

to find that we had missed the visits of Dr. W , U.S.N., 

and Captain Y , U.S.M.C. At seven, the latter called 

again. Social Hall was crowded ; the dining-room ditto ; 
passengers were even seated on all the steps of the stairway, 
so, cold as it was, we were obliged to remain out on the deck, 
as there were sixty more passengers on board than there 
were cabins for, even allowing three in each room. The 
Captain's time had almost expired ; he was expecting his. 
relief, and anticipating with great pleasure the thought of 
being once more stationed at Annapolis. My old friend 

Captain S had just left in command of the Pheasant, and 

the Wheeli?ig is expected in a day or two. One of my hus- 
band's old sailors sent on board to me a Leslie's Weekly, 
which was greatly appreciated. The Captain extended an 

invitation for B and me to spend the evening in his 

comfortable quarters, to meet the Governor and see some- 
thing of home-life in Sitka, but, unfortunately, we were 
obliged to decline. 



CHAPTER XXXIII 



JAKE AND HIS RIVAL 



Thursday, October 6th. 

LEFT Sitka at 6 a.m., reaching Killisnoo at one. " Five 
minutes will be more than enough for this place, so 
don't hurry," called out one of the passengers, but we were 
not deterred from starting on a voyage of discovery, and 
were fully justified in not heeding the warning. On our 
way to the Russian church, we were told that many years 
ago some Americans visited this town, but were attacked 
and killed by the Indians. Immediately afterwards a man- 
of-war was sent in, which bombarded the place. We 
searched for a book, pamphlet, or paper from which to gain 
some reliable information, but in vain. We soon came to a 
house, upon which was the following sign : 



*\J2£H^ 



By the Governor's 

commission 
And the company's 

permission, 
I am made the grand 

Tyhee 
Of this entire II- 

lahee. 




Prominent in song 

and story, 
I 've attained the top 

of glory. 
As Sacinaw I'm 

known to fame. 
"Jake" is but my 

common name. 



While copying the sign, who should come up the road but 

467 



468 



Two Women in the Klondike 



Jake himself, the only smiling Indian among the entire sul- 
len band. He invited us to enter, and his roomy house was 
soon filled to overflowing. He brought out costume after 
costume, some made of red cloth embroidered with white and 
blue beads, some entirely of marten tails — war suits and 
dancing suits galore. We begged him to dress himself in 
one of these costumes, but pleaded in vain. To one of the 
young men of the party, however, he took a decided liking, 
and put on him his favourite suit, even to his crown of 
feathers and mask. Suddenly he said, " That \s enough," 
and looked at the door. Each guest felt that the audience 
was at an end, and only stopped to get a peep at the dozens 
of beautiful red trunks with their heavy brass nails, which 
seemingly coutained stacks more of weird costumes. We 
wandered on until we discovered by a sign above another 
house that Jake had a hated rival : 



Rightful chief of all 

Neltusketi, 
Gungh-Tah Kooch 

and Kooch ka pen, 
Known as such I am, 

Kah Chuckte, 
From Yabulat to Far 

Stickeen. 

Yes my name it is 
Kah Chuckte, 

Man slayer in the 
Boston tongue, 

Old as yonder Gran- 
ite Mountains, 

Is the lin eage 
whence I sprung. 



VVAAAAAA 7 




Stores of furs and 

blankets pillaged 
By the " Adams " 

pirate crew, 
Hough Kah Chuckte 

ever neutral, 
Dwelt afar from 

Kootznakoo. 

Now I ask not for 

positions, 
Such to Jake I will 

concede, 
While Kah Chuckte 

from your nation 
Will for justice only 

plead. 



Such a pathetic plea for justice aroused deep sympathy in 
the hearts of those who read in favour of the absent chief- 
tain, and gave us a still keener desire to learn the history of 
the little village. To the one store in town I went — to find 
a locked door. I asked the only European visible in that 
part of the village for information. None to be had. He 



Jake and His Rival 



469 



directed me to the side door of the shop, saying, " The pro- 
prietor is there, but is a crank, and will open only when he 
feels in the humour to do so." To the side door I applied, 
and asked a gruff-looking- man who was seated at a desk, 




KILLISNOO. 



writing, " Can you give me a book or pamphlet or any in- 
formation about this place?" " None whatever," he re- 
plied, so I bowed and left. I climbed thirty or forty steps 
to photograph the little church, but as the day was dark, 
could not hope for good results. There was nothing more 



47° Two Women in the Klondike 

to be seen or done except to buy a curio in the shape of a 
tiny canoe with two men in fur — one paddling, the other 
with spear in hand. 

Just as I was going on board followed by the faithful Ivan, 
who had attracted the usual amount of attention, someone 
called, " Bring your camera quick — here 's the chance of a 
lifetime," and I hastened to the edge of the wharf to see a 
scow so laden with silvery herrings that men were standing 
knee-deep among them, scooping them into receptacles 
which were hauled up over a bridge, from which they were 
emptied in a shower into a waiting car. The car was then 
hauled by cable to the warehouses, through which the head 
man soon escorted me saying, that it was the only establish- 
ment of the kind on the Pacific coast; that they made no fuss 
about what they were doing, but employed one hundred men 
when they were running full time. Caught one hundred 
and thirty-five tons of fish in a net one hundred and forty 
fathoms long and seventy feet deep, jdelding one thousand 
three hundred and fifty barrels. The oil is used by miners, 
as it is non-explosive, and is also boiled for paints. The pro- 
cesses, as we followed them, interested us greatly, and we left, 
deeply impressed by the industry of the Alaska Oil & Guano 
Company. 

At four o'clock we were off again and watched the wonder- 
ful scenery until dinner-time. The Captain says we shall 
reach Juneau after midnight, leaving by 6 a.m., so that we 
shall not have the desired opportunity of visiting the famous 

Alaska-Treadwell mines. 

Friday, October 7th. 

Through the window this morning we saw small icebergs, 
some in the shape of beautiful swans, others resembling ani- 
mals of different descriptions. At nine came a knock on the 
door and an inquiry whether the ladies were in, as a big 
paper bag was handed to E . We peeped to see the con- 
tents as eagerly as children, shouting with exclamations of 
delight and surprise over bananas, peaches, even grapes, 
bonbons, peanuts ! "A slight souvenir of Juneau," as Mr. 
M (the kindly fellow passenger who had provided K 



Jake and His Rival 



4?i 



with an awning during the previous trip) modestly put it. 

An hour after we received a similar gift from Mr. ■ , of 

Vancouver, another fellow passenger from Dawson. 

The rain was falling, the steamer overcrowded, and there 
was not a place to sit and be comfortable, for even the dining- 
room chairs were all in use, and when the hour approached 
for laying the tables, their occupants were obliged to stand, 
or go to their cabins. K and Mrs. B went to break- 
fast, after which the latter returned and entertained me with 




SOAPY" SMITH AND HIS GUN. 



stories of her camp-life. To have spent two years in that 
country, without paying a visit to Dawson was the part that 
astonished me. Having purchased in Skaguay photographs 
of " ' Soapy ' Smith at rest," " ' Soapy ' Smith sleeping with 
shooting-iron," and " ' Soapy ' Smith's grave," his story in- 
terested me greatly, but it was told in many different ways. 
The following version was repeated oftener than any other : 
" He was a ' bunco steerer ' from Denver, who went to 

, but was ordered away. Finally he settled at Skaguay 

with twenty or more of his followers. One of the latter was 
a newspaper-man, whose duty it was to interview all new 



472 Two Women in the Klondike 

arrivals. When he found that they had money, he and 
' Soapy ' disposed of them and took possession of the funds. 
At length a man appeared with several thousand dollars in 
gold dust which he wanted to exchange at the bank, but 
was told by one of ' Soapy's ' band that a certain friend of 
his would give a dollar more an ounce, so decided to transact 
the business with him, and was ' made way with ' in the 
usual manner. Whether from the fact that the money was 
not divided, or that his men were tired of being ruled by 
him, is not known; certain it is, however, that one of them 
' peached.' A mass-meeting of the townspeople was held, 
and as they were trying to decide what disposition to make 
of Soapy ' and his gang, the former walked in, very much 
under the influence of alcohol. A scuffle ensued in which 
' Soapy ' and the marshal were the principal combatants and 
were both mortally wounded. The entire gang was soon 
caught and lodged in jail and the town was relieved from 
the desperadoes who had made life a burden." 

Another story of him was as follows : " Soapy" Smith 
called one day on a new arrival — a missionary — pretended 
great interest in his work, and asked if he had been sent out 
empty-handed. " Yes," said the man, " but if you will 
assist me I shall soon have enough to enable me to be of 
much use." " Put me down for a thousand dollars," said 
' ' Soapy, " ' ' and when ' the boys ' see my name at the head 
of the list, they '11 all chip in ; then when you 've got all 
you can from them, come to me and you may have the gold 
dust." The missionary, greatly encouraged, searched the 
camp diligently for subscribers. A few weeks later he re- 
ceived another visit from " Soapy " who asked whether he 
had met with much success. " Yes, thanks to you," said 
the missionary, " I have now nearly two thousand dollars." 
" Hand it over ! " exclaimed " Soapy " and his startled host, 
looking into the muzzle of a revolver, obeyed orders. 



CHAPTER XXXIV 

FAREWELIv TO ALASKA 

ALTHOUGH the rain was still falling, we prepared to go 
on shore at Wrangel, and passed the time before ar- 
rival chatting pleasantly with Captain T -, who is still 

obliged to sleep on the dining-room table, although it is 
loudly whispered that there are a number of vacant bunks 
on board. The first time he asked the purser for one of 
them, he was told that it had been partially promised to an- 
other man ; the second time, that he might have it " if the 
other man did not apply before night"; the third, that if 
he could discover which bunk was vacant he might put in 
an application ; so, rather than be subjected to further in- 
dignities, he decided to endure being ordered from his short 
repose on the table at four each morning. As we tied up to 
the dock at Wrangel, the night was black, and the rain still 
falling in torrents ; although we landed, we were not able to 
see our way into the town without the aid of a lantern, which 
it was not possible to obtain. Fortunately, a man came on 
board with samples of rocks from the Stickeen River, in 
which were embedded large garnets, and I managed to se- 
cure some fine specimens as souvenirs. 

October 8th. 
A rainy, nasty day ! We reached Ketchikan at six 
o'clock, too early to dress and go on shore, and after that, 
were only to stop at Mary Island for a few hours to leave 
there the winter's supply of coal. " Absolutely nothing to 
see," Mrs. B assured us. " We do not even go to a 

473 



474 Two Women in the Klondike 

dock, as there is none to go to, and the coal is put off in bags, 
on a boat." We had heard most alarming stories of the 
roughness of the waters at Dixon Entrance, so we three con- 
cluded to be on the safe side, and remain in bed. Our 
suspicions of "a bad day before us " were confirmed by the 
unusually early arrival of the man in charge of .filling the 
lamps, who said, " I must do them now, as it may be too 
rough later." One of the stewards looked in, to see that 
everything was well secured, telling us that, on a previous 
trip, a tremendous wave had knocked in the door of this 
very cabin, split open the bunk in which I was lying, and 

washed out a mother and babe, who were in K 's bunk. 

After such preparations, the reality was indeed tame, for 
we had but a gentle rocking motion which lasted only a few 
hours, and soon rounded the point and were in smooth water 
again. I forgot to jot down that before leaving Wrangel 
there were several boys on the dock shouting, " Seattle 
papers of the 4th and the 6th." That they should have 
papers of so recent a date aroused my suspicions, so that, for 
the first time, I did not call for the latest news. Several 
men did, however. The boys sold their papers and ran. 
By the time they had disappeared, their victims had dis- 
covered that 6th of July, instead of 6th of October was the 
heading of their reading-matter. 

Monday, October 10th. 
A rough night ! Reached Departure Eay at 9 a.m. As 
the Captain decided not to stop at Victoria, owing to the fact 
that only three passengers were booked for that port, and 

that the cost of wharfage was very great, Mr. M and 

Mr. bade us good-bye and left by train. Late in the 

evening we made Port Townsend, reaching Seattle after 
midnight. 

Tuesday, October nth. 

We three women suffered veritable torture last night ! We 

were shut in a cabin six by eight, with bunks so near each 

other that to sit up was an impossibilit}^. One or two of the 

passengers who had not been able to procure extra blankets 



476 Two Women in the Klondike 

had asked to have the steam turned on, and turned on it 
was ! At midnight, we compared notes and found that no 
Turkish bath could have surpassed in temperature that which 
we were enduring. There were no bells to ring, and no one 
to call. How we longed for morning ! At four o'clock I 
could bear it no longer, got up, dressed, and sat on deck, 
and the others were not long in following my example. At 
the same time, I must in justice add that the steamer was 
clean and the service wonderfully good, taking into con- 
sideration the fact that there were three sets of passengers 
for each meal, so overcrowded was the ship ; the cuisine was 
really excellent. The only other cause of complaint is the 
way in which the three bunks are crowded together one 
above the other, but that seems to be a custom of the Pacific 
coast. 

We reached Hotel Butler in the early morning and were 
soon surrounded by reporters, many of whom it would per- 
haps have been advisable to see, in which case they would 
not have written, " The ladies were obliged to travel through 
the Klondike in men's clothing," or, " The ladies astonished 
the miners with their silks and satins, laces and diamonds." 

We soon received many invitations, and were shown 
that cordial hospitality for which Seattle is famous, but 
we could not tarry long, as we were anxious to reach our 
own firesides. Our trip had come to an end, and although 
the privations had been many, they had been more than 
compensated for by the kind friends we had made, by the 
insight we had gained into a phase of life hitherto unknown 
to us, by the magnificence of the scenery, and by the novelty 
of the experience. 



INDEX 



Acetylene bicycle lamps, price of, 
214 ; light, 242, 317, 339, 340, 

355 

Acres, number of, allowed to one 
person, 108, 356, 357 

Adams, Fort, 76 

Adele, a mandolin player in Daw- 
son, 146 

Alaska, missionaries in, 10, 18, 61 ; 
the natives of, 18, 19, 26-29, 4 1 , 
62, 66, 67, 466, 467 ; Russian 
priests in, 18, 29 ; dogs of, 50, 
65, 66, 68, 71, 73, 78, 115, 116, 
190, 224, 226, 230, 261, 367, 371 ; 
vegetables raised in, 67, 88, 95 ; 
pioneers of, 77, 79, 89, 95, 406 

Alaska Commercial Company, 
the, reputation of, 3, 134 ; 
steamships of the, 3, 4, 14 ; 
generosity of, 21, 106 ; pam- 
phlet of, 28 ; stores of, 25, 26, 
53, 7i. 74, 77, 80, 81, 91, 99, 
154, et passim ; river steamers 
of, 32, 33, 48 ; allowance of 
freight, 211 ; manager of, 337- 
339, 377, 381-384, 386, 389- 
395 ; uniform prices of, 377 ; re- 
liability of, 385 ; great work of, 
394 

Alaska Oil and Guano Company, 
469 

Alaska Steamship Companies, ri- 
valry between, 32 

Alaska Treadwell Mines, 278, 469 

Alder Creek, 80 

Aleuts, the, 28 

Alice, the, 67, 63 



Alliance, the, 106 

Andreafsky, 62 

Animatoscope, the, plans to ex- 
hibit, 241, 248, 249, 258, 259, 
262, 265-267, 276, 305 ; "Arizona 
Charlie's," 284, 286, 287 ; disap- 
pointments in regard to, 292, 
308, 313, 331-333, 339, 347, 35o, 
355 ; successful exhibition of, 

357-359 
Anne, the, 341 
Aphoon River, the, 62 
Arctic Express Company, the, 

399, 415 
" Arizona Charlie," the animato- 
scope show of, 284, 286, 287, 
289, 300, 305, 351, 357, 384 ; 376, 

397 

Attornev, power of, given to Colo- 
nel K~, 385, _ 389, 390 

Aurora borealis, 86, 405, 423 

Australia, Western, mines of, 423 

Australian dogs, 398, 399 



Ball, masquerade, in Dawson, 306 
Banjo playing, 10, 22, 215 
Barge, use of, on the Yukon, 25, 
33 ; accommodations on a, 45- 
5i, 55-57, 60, 6l ; discomforts 
of life on a, 60, 61, 64, 65, 67- 
69, 73, 77, 78, 82-90 
Barnard, Lieutenant, 71 
Barr,Joli7i C, the, 88, 93, 404 
Battenbury, President, 399 
Bear, the, 17, 37, 39 



477 



478 



Index 



Bear Creek, bench claim on, 212 ; 
claims on, staked and recorded, 
244, 263, 274, 275, 299; the 
coming El Dorado, 359, 368, 
371 ; sample of gold from, 388, 

397 
Bears, 64, 82, 199, 227, 228, 295, 

29 6 , 434, 435 
Beef, roast, 278, 381 ; steak, 234, 

387 

Bella, the, 45, 121, 125, 126 

Bench claims {see Claims) 

Bennett, 373, 434, 439 ; Lake, 317, 
318, 435 

Bering, Sea, 57 ; Strait, 28 

Big Minook Creek, 80 

Bills, 202, 203, 217, 238, 298, 306, 
334, 335, 351,352 

Birch Creek, 86, 91, 408 

Black Foot Camp, 62 

Blankets, 115, 119, 158, 168, 172, 
176, 191, 341, 439, 440, 445, 446, 
448 

Blasting on the Skaguay trail, 452 

Bloomers, utility of, in the Klon- 
dike, 240, 327, 442 

Bluebells found at Andreafsky, 62 

Boats on the Yukou, 71, 73, 75, 

99, 45o 

Bonanza, kings, 178, 218, 243 ; 
mines, 173, 184, 249, 271, 285, 
322, 328, 356, 371 ; River, 160 

Books and papers, sale of, 298 

Bowling-alley, the, 241, 249, 250, 
259, 262, 265, 266, 272, 298, 341 

"Boys," the sick, 122, 125, 140, 
269-271, 285, 286, 315, 316, 395 

Bread, price of, at Circle City, 89 ; 
price of, at Dawson, 116, 264, 
275, 379 ; making in the Klon- 
dike, 226, 228, 247, 260, 304 

Brewery, the, 238 

Brooms, price of, in Dawson, 324, 
38i 

Bunk house, a, 444-449 

Business schemes and proposi- 
tions, 240, 241, 246, 247, 249, 
250-259, 271, 303-326 

Butter, corner in, 377 



Cabbages grown in Alaska, 95 
Cache built to secure land, 345, 
354, 355, 358, 360, 385, 387, 396 



Cafe, Regina, 250 

Calcium carbide, 214, 317, 350, 

355 
Canada, crossing the boundary of, 

93 
Canaries taken to the Klondike, 

6, 43, 49, 74, 120, 124, 285 
Canoes, birch bark, 61, 66, 168 ; 

Peterboro', 120, 146, 147, 152, 

155, 272, 300, 304, 307, 314, 374, 

403, 450 
Caribou, 28, 263 
Carpenter, the boss, 286, 290, 315, 

321, 333, 335, 339, 344, 349, 352, 

354 
Cartage, bill for, 298 
Catholic Mission, 70 
Cattle, 402, 404, 406 
Celery grown in Alaska, 67 
Certificate, of deposit, 107 ; 

minei's, 153, 244, 245 
Champagne, in Dawson, 130, 276, 

3io, 339 
Checks, percentage on cashing, 

344 
" Chee Charkers," 142, 171, 235, 

239, 242 
Chilkoot Pass, the, 113, 127, 128, 

354, 439 

Chips, 143, 144, 146, 148, 215 

Chloride, 298 

Chukchi, the, 28 

Church services in the ' ' big tent, ' ' 
136, 162-165, 193, 214, 232, 263, 
268 

Cider, patent, 120, 295 

Circle City, 85, 88, 89, 91, 243, 250 

CityofTopeka, the, 459 

Claims, bench, 174, 175, 212, 271 ; 
on El Dorado, 200, 212 ; on Bear 
Creek, 212, 271 ; placer, 205 ; 
staked, 141, 171, 174, 194, 209, 
242, 263, 307, 368 ; difficulties in 
recording, 224, 226, 243-245, 
249, 250, 304, 328 ; for sale, 210, 
357; demand for "lays" on, 
360, 361, 368, 371, el passim. 

Clara, the, 386, 387, 389-392, 397, 

399 
"Clean-ups," at mines, 160, 162, 

176, 180, 181, 184, 185 
Clergymen, Presbyterian, in 

Dawson, 113, 136, 162, 193, 214, 

234, 268 
Coal, price of, on the Yukon, 78 



Index 



479 



Coffin, price of, in Dawson, 319 

Colorado Springs, 3 

Columbia Navigation Company, 
the, 34, 73 

Columbian, the, 354, 364, 368, 
372-376, 378,4n 

Combination Company Theatre, 
the, 143, 146, 148, 357, 358, 360 

Constantine, Fort, 96 

Consul, American, at Dawson, 
154, 165, 166, 194, 216 

Cook, in search of a, 115, 118, 120, 
214, 216, 228, 232 ; wages of, at 
Circle City, 89 ; wages of, at 
Dawson, 121, 226; society 
"boys" as, 231, 234, 276, 309, 
310 

Copper River, the, 77, 86 

Cotton-buds at Andreafsky, 67 

Cows, incident with Alaskan, 50, 

5* 
Crane, flocks of, 405 
Criterion, the, 116, 118, 164, 204, 

211, 278, 304 

Crown Timber Agent, the, 154, 

294, 356, 359, 360, 396 
Cudahy, Fort, 95 
Currants found near Circle City, 

88 
Custom-House experiences, 26- 

28, 40, 112, 297, 306, 334, 445 
Customs, Collector of, 216, 292, 

390 ; Inspector of, 26-28 



I) 



Darole, Jose, 154 

Dawson, prices in, 36, 38, 90, 104, 
124, 126, 156, 190, 191, 239, 246, 
298, 340, 355, 377, 381 ; " Windy 
Bill," the mail-carrier to, 41, 
42 ; the founder of, 51-53 ; sani- 
tary condition of, 51, 67, 68, 75, 
79,. 89, 90, 125, 359, 378; the 
arrival at, 99, 100 ; description 
of, 100, 102, 104, 129, 130, 146 ; 
hotels in, 102, 141, 214, 215, 
384, 39i, 392, 394, 395 I rules in 
regard to drinks in, 106, 143, 
144, 146, 215 ; doctors' fees in, 
107, 238, 280, 295 ; garden pro- 
duce in, 108, 235, 282 ; our first 
dinner in a log cabin in, 138- 
140; weather in, 115, 118, 119, 



et passim ; doing the town of, 
140-146 ; character of place 
changing, 239 ; crowds at night 
in streets of, 283, 284 ; wedding 
in, 271, 310 ; fear of being 
"frozen in," for the winter, 
312, 372-398 ; departure from, 

398 * 
Dawson Annex, or West, 104, 

345, 35i, 352, 357-359, 362; 

church services in, 113, 136, 

162-165, 193, 214, 232, 263, 268 
Deer in Alaska, 28 
Denver, 3 

Departure Bay, 474 
Dinner-parties in the "big tent," 

165, 166, 194, 276 
Dixon Entrance, 474 
Doctors, prices for attendance of, 

in Dawson, 107, 238, 280, 295 
Dogs, Alaskan, or " Siwash," 50, 

65, 66, 68, 71, 73, 78, 190, 261, 

367, 37i ; pack-, 115, 116; at 

work, 224, 226, 230 ; in Sitka, 

461 ; Australian, 398, 399 
Dominion, mines on, 160, 196, 

320 
Domville, the, accommodations 

on, 364, 383; race of, with the 

Flora, 411-421, 426 
Drinks, rule in theatres in regard 

to, 143, 144, 146, 215, 216 
Ducks, wild, 28, 263, 268, 270, 

278, 400 
Dutch Harbour, 21 
Duty, on cargo, 306 ; on lumber, 

272 ; excessive, 334, 341 
Dyea, 132, 254, 256, 439, 442 
Dysentery in Dawson, 130, 359 



Eagle City, 250 

Edgecombe, Mount, 462 

El Dorado Creek, 409, 410 ; River, 

175 ; claims on, 160, 180-182, 

196, 212, 214 ; 322 
Electric-light plant, 384 
Empire Line, the, 3 
Episcopal Mission at Fort Adams, 

76 
Eskimos of Alaska, 28, 62, 66, 67 
Exchange, rate of, 107 



480 



Index 



Fairview Hotel, the, dinners at, 
214, 215, 384, 391, 392, 394, 395 

Fawcett, Thomas, 153 

Ferns found at Andreafsky, 62 

Fish in the Klondike, 58, 66, 118, 
120, 128, 156, 158, 199, 215, 278, 
364, 367, 370, 379 

Five Fingers {see Rink Rapids) 

Flora, the, 373~375, 37$, 3 8l ~383, 
386, 387, 389, 390, 399 ; accom- 
modations on, 391, 392 ; the 
race of, with the Domville, 411 
-427 

Flowers, wild, at Unalaska, 17 ; 
along the Yukon, 62, 63, 74, 
93 ; at Dawson, 113, 322 

Fog, 76, 424 

Foliage, on Yukon, 402, 425 ; in 
Dawson, 354 

Forts, Adams, 76 ; Constantine, 
96 ; Cudahy, 95, 96 ; Hamlin, 
80, 81, 85 ; 'Selkirk, 95, 96, 372, 
373, 403-405; Wrangel, 472, 
474 ; Yukon, 86 

Forty Mile, 94-96, 364, 446; Creek, 
408 

Franklin, Sir John, 71 

Freight-rates, 157, 305, 318, 327, 

34i, 439 
Fruit, wild, near Circle City, 88 
Fuel used on river steamers, 62- 

64, 70, 76, 78, 84, 87, 93, 96, 

309, 332, 414, 415, 423 
Funeral in West Dawson, 321- 

" 323 

Furniture, home-made, 122, 127, 

128 
Fur robes, 114, 119, 122, 156, 157, 

220, 231, 236, 250, 358 



Game, 28, 58, 62, 263, 268, 369, 

400 
Garnets from Stickeeu River, 

472 
Gasoline, 298, 351, 357, 384 
Geese, wild, 28, 369 
Ghost stories, 231, 236 
Gnats, 74 
Gold, carried from Dawson, 36, 

44-46 ; on Birch Creek, 91 ; 

at Forty Mile, 94, 95 ; on 

Koyukuk River, 45, 71 ; 0:1 



Dominion, 196 ; on El Dorado, 
176, 181, 182, 196 ; on Bear 
Creek, 359, 368, 388, 397 ; pan- 
ning out, 96, 173, 174, 182, 185 

Gold dust, 45, 239, 241, 248,288, 
328, 377, 418 

Gold mines, placer, 91, 205 ; the 
visit to, 167-190 ; claims offered 
in, 210 et passim 

Goldberg and Bowen, 325, 330 

Golden Gate, the, 2 

Golden Star, the, 425 

Gordon's Camp, 171 

Grand Forks Hotel, 160, 173 

Graphophone, the, 114, 204, 209, 
231 

Grocers, San Francisco, 325, 330 ; 
Dawson, 325, 328, 329, 335-340 

Groundsel found along the Yu- 
kon, 74 

Grouse, willow, 28 

Grub-staking, 71, 80, 141 

Guitar playing, 10, 215, 220, 384 



H 



Half-way House, the, 171, 185- 

187 
Ham-Grease Saloon, the, 454 
Hamlin, Fort, 80, 81, 85 
Hannah, the, 292 
Heney, {see White Pass City) 
Herring fishery, 469 
Hoffman House, the, 141, 391 
Holy Cross Mission, 67 
Hootalinqua Post, 428 
Horses in Dawson, 168-170, 173, 

179, 185, 188, 203, 217, 257, 

277, 280, 281, 285, 290, 357 
Horse-flies, 74 
Hospital, the, 212, 238, 287, 288 ; 

Sisters at, 108, 154, 155, 378 
Hotel, Butler, 475 ; Dawson, 

439 ; Fort Get There, 40, 42 ; 

Millmore, 460 
House-building, {see Log cabin) 
Hunker, mines on, 196 
Hunter Creek, 80 
"Huskies," 86 



Ice, near surface of the ground, 
62, 128, 283, 321 ; ready to form 
in the Yukon, 352, 372, 373, 
381, 382, 388, 416 



Index 



481 



Icebergs, 22, 23, 469 

Ice-cream, freezer, 72, 73, 90; 
suppers, 219, 220, 234-236, 238 

Ikogimut, or Russian Mission, 66 

Iliuliuk, Unalaska, 26 

Indiana, the, 3 

Indian River, 466, 467 

Indian, story of, guide, 132, 152 ; 
murderer lynched, 419, 446 

Indians, Alaskan, 18, 26, 27, 58, 
61, 63,64, 66, 67, 70, 71, 77, 86, 
89, 151, 152, 239, 414, 446, 460, 
462, 465-467 ; object to being 
photographed, 70, 278, 279, 461 

Ingaliks, the, 66 

Inuuits, the, 66 

Investments, opportunities for 
good, 357, 371, 372, 382 

Isaacs, our Jack-of-all-trades, 
121-190 ; duties and wages of, 
191 ; trouble with, 192-21 1 ; de- 
parts, 212, 216-218 ; returns, 
224, 235, 296, 307 

Ivan, a Great Dane, 1, 6, 36, 50, 
51, 53, 54, 62, 64, 68, 71, 73, 78, 
79, 119, 120, 151, 162, 208, 221, 
226, 230 et passim ; prepares to 
depart, 388 ; delays the Flora, 
422 ; 454, 461, 462,469 



''Jake" of Killisnoo, 466, 467 

James, Bushrod Washington, 91 

Jesse Lee Home, the, 17, 18 

"Jinks," 321 

Johnson-Locke Company, the, 
winter stores sent by, 211, 242, 
266, 274, 292, 350, 355 

Jones, John, 122, 130, 132, 137, 151; 

introduces A M , the 

Klondike King, 158 ; 160, 203 ; 
on guard, 231, 236 ; kindness 
of, 222-359 et passim ; at cross 
purposes, 360 et passim 

Juneau, souvenir of, 46}, 470 



K 



Kayak, native Alaskan boat, 19, 

41, 66 
Ketchikan, 472 
Killisnoo, 466-469 
King Island, 22 



Klondike, proper mode of dress 
in the, 240, 327 ; spirit of neigh- 
bourly kindness shown in the, 
116, 214, 324 et passim ; refrig- 
erator, 128 ; weather, 180, 197, 
205, 220, 22 r, 231, 261, 264, 295, 
2 97, 303> 308, 309, 322, 327, 334, 
342, 352, 360, 362, 365, 376, 381, 

387 

Klondike City, 320 

Klondike gold-fields, 91, 160, 173, 
180-182, 184, 196, 212, 214, 249, 
271, 320, 322, 356, 359, 368, 371 
ct passim 

Klondike Kings, 51, 79, 109, 162, 

301, 346, 406 ; Bill L , story 

of, 406-410, 417, 418, 426, 435, 

437, 438, 44o; J L , 51- 

53, 274, 291, 292 ; A M , 

158, 160, 167-185, 196, 210, 214- 
217, 234, 271, 274-278, 299, 383 ; 
letters to, 109-112, 301, 302, 
346, 379, 380 

Klondike Nugget, the, 113, 136, 
150, 165, 194, 274, 399 

Klondike River, the, 99, 102, 160, 
189, 427 

Kollik, 62 

Korkorin, Russian trader, 74 

Koserefsky, 67 

Koyukuk River, the, 36, 45, 70, 
71, 80, 141, 152 



Ladue, Joseph, Company, 211 ; 

warehouses, 273, 274, 291, 292 
Lake Bennett, 317, 318, 435 
Landslide, the, 226 
Laundry, the, at Unalaska, 15-17 ; 

work, 68, 69, 102, 209, 238, 345, 

38i 
"Lay," work involved in taking 

a, 368, 369 
Leah, the, 49, 50, 54, 57, 58, 87, 

93, 96, 112 
Letters to Klondike Kings, 109- 

112, 301, 302, 346, 379, 380 
Lettuce, grown in Alaska, 88, 95 
Library of winter reading, offer 

for, 284 ; disposal of, 298 
Lime-light, 299 
Linderman, Lake, 346, 442 
Linen, offer for household, 209 
Little Minook Creek, 80 



482 



Index 



Log cabin, dinner party in a, 138, 
139 ; permit to build our, 242 ; 
site of our, 261-263, 265 ; trials 
of building, 258, 259, 262-264, 
266, 272, 277, 280-282, 285, 288, 
302, 303, 308, 315, 325, 342, 345, 
35i, 352, 386, 389, 390; further 
expense of, 308, 315, 344 ; fin- 
ished, 349, 350, 370 

Lots, building, size of, 261, 262, 
273, 358, 360, 362, 376 

Louse-town, 189, 190, 197, 320 

Lynching, story of, at Sheep 
Camp, 252-257 ; of Indian 
murderer, 419, 446 

Lynxskin robe, utility of, 156, 
157, 358, 37o, 376 



M 



Mackenzie River, the, 86 

Magic-lantern, the, 241, 259, 304 ; 
show, 354, 355, 358, 379, 387 

Mail, early difficulties in carry- 
ing, to Dawson, 41, 42 ; slow 
distribution of, 154, 161, 165, 
208, 217, 291, 363, 396 

Main Street, Dawson, 246, 250, 
355, 373 et passim 

Malakhof, 71 

Malaria in Dawson, 79 

Mammoth, tooth of, found in 
gold mine, 413, 414 

Mammoth Island, 85 

Mandolin playing, 7, 10, 22, 120, 
146, 204, 215, 220, 369, 370, 384 

Manganese, 298 

Margaret, the, 74-76 

Marsh Lake, 435 

Marten skins, 74 

Mary Island, 472 

Mastodon, fossil remains of the, 
85, 86 

Mattresses, air, inutility of, 114, 
115, 141, 197 

May West, the, 311, 425 

Men-of-war at St. Michaels, 39, 

43 

Mice, field, 259, 310, 311, 365, 387 

Middle Lake, 449 

Miles Canon, 427 

Milk, malted, price of, 298 

Miller Creek, 408 

Miners, returning from the Klon- 
dike, 36, 43-46 ; costumes of, 45 ; 



government by, in Circle City, 
91 ; courtesy and kindness 
shown to women by, 104, 113- 
116, 175, 243, 307 et passim ; 
hardships of, 171, 172, 180, 186, 
187, 371, 372 ; justice dealt by, 
239, 257 J packs, 168, 178, 179, 

185, 188, 197, 274 ; wrongs and 
grievances of, 180, 239, 320, 369 ; 
death of a, in West Dawson, 

315-323 
Missionaries to the Klondike, 10, 

61, 405 
Missions in Alaska, 17, 18, 21, 66, 

76, 96, 463 
Monarch, the, 88 
Monte Carlo Theatre, 106 
Moonlight, 42, 186, 277, 278, 405, 

415, 427 
Moose, 82, 263 ; steak, 124, 126, 

156, 171, 379 
Mosquitoes, 26, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 

74, 85, 87 
Mount Edgecombe, 462 
Muck-a-lucks, 53, 77, I26> 178, 

186, 188, 327 

Mulberries found near Circle Citv, 

88 
Music-box {see Criterion) 
Muskrats, skins of, 63 
Mutton, leg of, price of, 156, 163, 

194 



N 



Newspapers, price of, 18, 19, 136, 
360, 413 

"Nigger Jim," proprietor of the 
Hoffman House, 39, 106, 141, 
142, 144, 146, 307, 391 

Nine Mile River, 435 

Nora, the, 399, 428 ; accommo- 
dations on, 434-438 

North American Transportation 
Company, the, 88, 137, 215, 344, 

37i, 385 
North Star, the, 464 
Northern Lights {see Aurora Bore- 

alis) 
Novikakat, 74 
Nuggets from various mines, 46, 

7i, 79, 94, 143, l6 °, J 73, 174, 
181, 182, 184, 185, 194, 271, 372, 
410 

Nulato, 70, 71 

Nurses, trained, 298, 382 



Index 



483 



Oats, attempts to raise, at Forty 

Mile, 96 
Ogilvie's Guide-Book, 91, 93, 94 
Ohio, the, 3 
Old Log Cabin Hotel, 439, 444, 

449 
Ora, the, 214, 215, 291, 306, 317, 

339, 354, 399, 405, 413 
Oranges, at Forty Mile, 97 ; at 

Dawson, 116, 122, 250; on the 

Pass, 443 
Orchestra, on the St. Paul, 10 ; on 

barge, 64, 77 ; Col. B , the 

fiddler of, 8, 10, 68, 70, 97, 98 ; 

in Dawson, 106, 146, 215, 220, 

384, 394 
Oysters, eastern, in Alaska, 39, 
116, 215, 457 ; cocktails, 102 



Packs, miners', 168, 178, 179, 185, 

188, 197, 235, 275 
Panning out gold, 96, 173, 174, 

182, 185 
Parrot, taken to the Klondike, 6, 

49, 120, 124, 190, 205, 208, 210, 

2Ti, 278 ; reported dead, 302 ; 

mystery concerning the, 348, 

404 
Pearline, price of, 294 
Permit to build, 263, 265 
Peterboro' canoes, 120, 146, 152, 

155, 403 
Pheasant, the, 465 
Photographs at midnight, 24, 37 ; 

learning to develop, 239 ; 268 
Pigeons taken to Dawson, 6, 49, 

55, 90, 113, 116, 120, 121, 128, 

134, 136, 137, 150, 157, 158, 164, 

190, 191, 193, 206 
Pillows, air, 115, 122, 125, 318 
Pioneer Hall, 248 
Placer mines, 91, 205 
Plover, 58 
Police, North-west Mounted, 224, 

314, 400 
Porcupine River, 86 
Portage, the, at the Rapids, 431 ; 

on the Pass, 450 
Portland, the, 34 
Port Townsend, 474 
Post-office, in Circle City, 89 ; in 

Dawson, 154, 161, 356, 363, 396 



Potatoes, grown in Alaska, 95 ; 

" human," 174, 179, 381, 435 
Priest Rock, the, 14 
Provisions, sale of winter supply 

of, 305, 306, 324, 330, 33-, 335- 

339 



Q 



Quartz, 129, 201, 314 

Quartz Creek, 224, 244 

Queen, a Great Dane, 1, 6, 20, 21, 

36, 43, 49, 50 ; sent back to San 

Francisco, 53 



R 



Radishes grown in Alaska, 88, 95, 

108, 114, 235 
Rafts, 240, 282, 283, 290, 291, 300, 

374 
Railroad station at White Pass 

City, 454-456 
Rain in Dawson, 102, 126, 127, 

137, 217, 285, 286, 299, 308, 309, 

360, 362, 369, 376-378 
Rampart City, 5, 78, 80 
Ramparts, the, 80, 85 
Rapids, White Horse, 391 
Raspberries found near Circle 

City, 88 
Record Office, 154, 171, 212, 224, 

243, 328 
Refrigerator, a Klondike, 128 
Regina Cafe, 250 
Restaurants, prices in, 89, 107, 

34o 
Retort of Animatoscope, rotten, 

313, 317, 320, 325, 326, 332 
Rideout, the, 243, 264, 265, 267, 

272, 274, 282, 284, 287, 292, 298, 

385 

Rink Rapids, the, or Five Fin- 
gers, 418, 420-422 

River steamers on the Yukon, 32 
-34, 50, 67, 75, 81, 87, 291, 354, 
373, 383, 386, 390, 402, 412, 413 
et seq., 428, 434 ; fuel used on, 
62-64, 76, 78, 96, 309 et passim 

Roanoke, the, 33, 34, 37-40 

Roses, wild, on the Yukon, 63, 74 

Roulette table, 384, 385 

Royalty, excessive rate of, on 
Canadian gold mines, 79, 161, 
180 



4 8 4 



Index 



Rubber boots, 126, 327, 331, 351 
Russian Church in Alaska, 62, 66, 
464, 465 ; priests, 18, 29 



Saint Anne, Sisters of, 67 

St. Josephs, Victoria, 108, 155 

St. Michael, Cathedral of, 464 

St. Michaels, the arrival at, 25 ; 
detention at, 32-54 ; ships in 
harbour of, 37, 39, 43, 47 ; shop- 
ping in, 52-54 ; departure from, 
54 ; price of fares from, to 
Dawson, 69, 78 

St. Paul, the, steamship of 
Alaska Commercial Company, 
first trip of, 2-25, 31 ; at St. 
Michaels, 31, 39, 53 

Salmon, 58, 66, 118, 120, 128, 156, 
158, 199, 278 

Saloons, liquor, in Dawson, 100, 
107, 208 

Salvation Army, the, 120, 284 

Sand-flies, 62 

San Francisco, outfits bought in, 
1, 2 

Sarah, the, 394, 396 

Scenery, along the Yukon, 65, 72, 
76, 79, 9 2 , 99, 398, 402, 403, 405, 
431, 450 ; at Dawson, 115, 189, 
333, 352 ; at El Dorado, 175, 185 

Scows on the Yukon, 399, 400, 
402, 413, 427 

Seattle, 19, 458, 474, 475 ; Post- 
Intelligencer, the, 18, 360, 474 

Selkirk, Fort, 95, 96, 372, 373 

Shallow Lake, 449 

Sheep, 402, 423 

Sheep Camp, supper at, 156, 157 ; 
story of lynching at, 252-257 

Sitka, 458, 460-463 

"Siwash" dogs, 50, 65, 66, 68, 
7i, 73, 78, 115, 116, 190, 224, 
226, 230, 261, 367, 437 

Sixty Mile, 95 

Skaguay, 445, 456-458 ; Pass, 454 

Skookum Creek, 173 ; Gulch, 182, 
184, 299 

Sluice-boxes, 173, 175, 184, 295, 

369 
Smart, James A., 153 
Smith, "Soapy," story of, 470, 

471 
Snipe, 28 



Snow, in Dawson, 365, 387 ; 

-capped mountains, 14, 359 
"Sour dough," 235 
Sovereign, the, 85, 87, 88 
Spring, the polluted, in West 

Dawson, 290, 291, 304, 320 
Squatters' rights, 108, 109, 113, 

273, 345, 354, 355, 369 
Stampedes, 133, 134, 151, 160 
Stars, 85, 239 

Stationery, offers for, 305, 328 
Stewart River, the, 362, 400 
Stickeen River, the, 472 
Storage prices, 298 
Stove, oil-, our, 116, 118, 128, 210, 

2 3 x , 3°9 ; wood-, 161, 231, 295, 

309, 315, 319, 326, 342, 366, 370, 

381 
Sulphur Creek, 160, 199, 218, 234, 

242, 361 
Summit Lake, 450 
Sun, midnight, the, 23, 24, 30, 33, 

37, 39, 42, 43, 52, 58, 86, 104 
Sunday, observance of, on barge, 

64, 65, 78, 93 ; in Dawson, 162, 

214, 287, 288, 339, 340 
Supplies, winter, disposal of, 209, 

298, 302, 304-306, 317, 324-326, 

328, 330, 333-340, 344 
Swans, skins of, 63 



Tagish Lake, 435 
Tanana, or Nuklukyets, 77 
Tanana River, 152, 408, 446 
Telephone, the, in Dawson, 382, 

392 

Tent, the big, 9, 104, 112 et 
sea. ; badly erected, 113, 126, 
127, 147, 152, 161, 217 ; decorat- 
ing, 128, 164 ; curiosity con- 
cerning, 116, 124, 137 ; church 
services in, 138, 144, 162, 165, 
193, 201, 214, 232, 234, 263, 268 ; 
collapse of, 154, 155 ; re-erected, 
158, 161 ; dinner parties in, 165, 
166, 194, 276 ; loan of a small, 
203, 220 ; price for, 363, 364 

Tents on the trail, 171, 172, 175, 
176 

Theatres in Dawson, 106, 143, 
146, 148, 215, 258, 289, 291, 298, 
299, 357, 358, 360, 384 



Index 



485 



Thieves, on barge, 77, 78 ; at 
Sheep Camp, 252, 253, 257 ; at 
Dawson, 239, 314, 339 

Thirty Mile River, 428 

Tillamook, the, 243, 355 

Tozikakat River, 77 

Tramps, 239 

Transportation companies, treat- 
ment of passengers by, 17, 32 ; 
careless methods of, 102, 328, 
334, 355, 385 ; most reliable, 
211, 385 

Trees, varieties of, on Upper Yu- 
kon, 403 

Trout, 367 

Trunks, price received for, 327, 
388 

Turkey, price of, taken to Daw- 
son, 38 

Turnips grown in Alaska, 77, 88, 

95, 235 
Typhoid fever in Dawson, 79, 
222, 298, 359, 376, 382, 395 



U 



Unalaska, arrival at, 13 ; scenery 
of, 14, 15 ; on shore at, 15-19 ; 
47 

V 

Veal, 136 

Vegetables grown in Alaska, 67, 

88, 95, 171 
Victoria, B. C, 108, 351, 474 
Victoria, the, 81, 82, 85, 87, 92 
Violets found at Unalaska, 17 



W 



Wages for labourers in Dawson, 
280, 285, 290, 303, 355 

War, news, as received in Alaska, 
75, 9 6 > 3 6 °, 4 J 3 I heroes, pic- 
tures of, 164 

Weather in Alaska, 21, 43, 79, 87, 
92, 197, 261, 264, 295, 297, 303, 
308, 309, 322, 327, 334, 342, 352, 
360, 362, 365, 376, 381, 387, 4i8, 
424 



West Dawson, or Dawson Annex, 
104, 370 ; we become squatters 
in, 113 et seq. ; church services 
in, 138, 144, 162, 165, 193, 201, 
214, 232, 234, 263, 268 ; return 
to, from visit to mines, 190 ; 
permit to build in, 242, 345, 354, 
355, 358; first funeral in, 315- 
319; view from, 333; the lar- 
gest house in, 321, 351, 352 ; the 
only wash-tub in, 381 

Wheeling, the, 39, 43, 46, 48, 49, 
465 

Whiskey, price of, on the Yukon, 
58, 78 

White Horse Canon Hotel, the, 

435 
White Horse Rapids, 389, 391, 

431 
White Pass, the, 354 ; crossing 

the, 439-457 
White Pass City, or Heney, 452 
White River, the, 77, 427 
Willie Irving, the, 373, 383, 386, 

402 
Windows, price of, in Dawson, 

381 
"Windy Bill," the mail-carrier, 

41, 42 



Yukon River, the, 17 ; low water 
of, 32, 33, 36 ; river steamers of, 
25, 32, 34, 43, 45, 49, 66, 67, 81, 
92, 215, 243, 373 et passim; long 
trip up, 54-99 ; width of, 93 ; 
strong current of, 42, 92, 104, 
239, 361, 366, 374 ; no stars visi- 
ble in ascending, 85 ; vegetation 
of, 62, 63, 74, 88, 93 ; foliage, 
402, 425; boats passed on, 67, 
7i, 73, 75, 399-403, 4i3, 45o ; ice 
beginning to form in, 372, 373, 
382 

Yukon Flats, the, 81, 85-87 

Yukon, Fort, 86 



Zagoskin, Lieutenant, 71 
Zither, the, 7, 194, 204, 214, 230 



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